Camry :: 2005 - A/C Malfunction - Don't Blow Really Cold Air
Jun 30, 2015
The a/c on my '05 Camry still puts out cool air, but not really cold anymore. I compare with my '08 Highlander that can still freeze your arms off in no time. We have had a warm spell lately, which is supposed to continue for another week, and while the Camry is putting out enough to eventually cool the air, it's just not up to it's usual standard. Are these a/c systems supposed to be sealed, and if so, is a leak the most likely reason ? I have not had it serviced in the past 3 years I've owned it. Is it worth it to try the "do-it-yourself" canned a/c service bottles or should I get the system pressure checked out first ?
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2 weeks ago my ac on my 2005 passat started working on and off, sometimes it would blow hot air and sometimes it would blow cold air. I took it to an independent shop (which we trust, they been working on our cars for a long time and never been ripped off...but first time I've taken a Volkswagen to them) and they just did an AC diagnostic test and re-filled the Freon, replaced the filter...it worked for 1 hour and went back to blowing hot air again, so I took it back and they said a valve stem was loose, causing the AC to work sometimes and not others, so they replaced that with a new one, my AC worked for 4 days...than on the 5th day it blew hot air again.. What could possibly be causing this??? It is stressing me out, especially since I need AC in hot Houston summer weather.
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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When I turn on the air conditioning, the driver's side works well, but the passenger's side vents blow warm air. What could this mean and could I fix it from home?
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So, my A/C in the 2005 doesn't blow cold. It blows, just not cold.
The dealer recommended doing an evac/recharge, which, from what i understand, is there way of finding out where I have a leak.
I took it to my local shop, since the dealer wanted a lot of cash to do this. After having my car in their lot all day, the local fellows called me to say that they couldn't do any recharging/service on my A/C since the coolant is something only the dealer can get (which is a special kind of coolant with special lube in it, right?).
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My 2005 ranger will blow hot air with the cab temperature control is on cold or hot. The A/C works only when it is on Max AC. What the problem may be.
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I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
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My drive belt broke and I replaced it with a new one and now ac wont blow cold air. It was working fine before. I can hear the compressor running but not blowing cold air.
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I have found on my new 2016 Camry XLE that on cooler mornings of 50 degrees and the engine is hot, when I set the AUTO button on and set the temperature to 70 degrees, the system blows out cold air through the top vents. I have to run the temperature up to 75 to receive warm air from below. Is there a way for the dealer to change the settings to warm at lower temperatures???
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History - So my A/C was going out about 6 months ago. It would come in and out with cold air until eventually it just stopped all cold air and was only hot. Then the control knobs broke. I took it in and they told me I had to replace the control unit and that would fix all the issues. Well I got it back and the A/C was still blowing hot air (even though the knobs were now working).
So I took it back in and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and it must be this hairline crack that was leaking freon. they said they couldn't find the crack but loaded it up with freon and said i would have to 'wait it out' could be years could be a few weeks, they just didn't know. well, it worked for awhile but here i am in 102 degree heat and when I turn on the A/C in the really hot car the passenger side quickly blows cold air and the driver side takes about 20 minutes before it finally gets cold. What gives? I do not have dual temperature controls.
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I am having a slight issue with my car. When turning on the air conditioning, the car does not blow anything at all when at idle. You don't hear any fan, nothing. But when the car is moving, and the dial is in air conditioning mode, it does vent cold air. There is also a bit of a compromise and fluctuation in power when the dial for air conditioning is on. Other information related to the topic is that when I check outside my car, the fan for the car is running when I run the air conditioning, and it does leak just a little bit of water when the air conditioning is on too.
I am wondering if it needs a recharge, or a new condenser / compressor. I may post a video of the problem as early as tomorrow.
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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I have a '97 Honda Civic w/ about 168k miles, am hoping to get at least another year or two out of it before I go looking for a used Honda Fit or something similarly budget-minded to replace it. I just ran the A/C on cold for the first time this season (I realize I was running it all winter when I defrosted the windows), and it was clearly not working, just blowing hot air. Now, the last time I had anything done with the A/C was in 2005, when I was in a minor accident and the very nice mechanic flushed it and replaced the freon (if I have that right) for no extra charge in the course of uncrumpling the front of the car for me.
Which brings up two issues:
1) I no longer have a trustworthy mechanic where I live, and have had much difficulty finding one, and
2) the car already has a salvage title so is worth about $500 max.
Now, obviously it is worth more than that to me, since it will still be cheaper to fix than get anything else, but I have the impression that A/C repair could get quite expensive, and it is enough to make me wonder if I could afford the monthly payment and insurance increase on that used Honda Fit..
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My 2005 Prius is having a problem with the AC. It will only blow cold air if the temp is set at MAX COLD. Any other temp setting and it will blow hot air. Really hot air. It makes no difference what the outside or inside temps are. Is there a simple fix for this? I can control the AC by setting it on Max Cold and changing the fan speed, but I would like for it to work on the auto setting the way it is supposed to.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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2005 Camry SE 2AZ-FE 4cyl 5 speed manual bought new well maintained 119000 miles. Makes a funny noise on cold start up when temp is below about 20 deg f just the first start up of the day. The noise sounds like a ZIP and is just for a second or 2 at the most. I can feel it in the steering wheel like a high frequency vibration. Seems like it's doing it at not quite as cold a temp but has been doing this since the first winter I bought the car new.
Hard to isolate without a second person standing out there in the cold, definitely coming from under the hood. I'm thinking it could be the idler pulley. Serpentine belt is original but has no cracks and is properly tensioned. Since it's done this since day one I'm hesitant to start pulling things apart. Car runs great aside from that. Mobil Super High Mileage oil 4,000 mi change interval, Toyota Filter always. The noise is just after the engine initially fires not starter related in my opinion.
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1. 1 month before I change my car battery.
2. Last night, after coming from Office i.e., around 50 KM drive. I witched off the car and had my dinner, let say after a gap of at least 3 hrs, I try to restart my car again but I could not. Even I can notice that the battery is not discharged as all lights are functioning properly & even center lock is working fine.
3. Then I use another car for jump start then the immediate car started. After driving for another 25 km, I switched off the car & try to restart again but I failed.
4. Today, after a gap of almost 15 hrs, again I tried to start the car then immediately it got started without showing any difficulties.
5. Again after driving around 20 km, again I switched off the car & try to restart then its not restarting.
I am confused, what could be the problem. Sometimes, it starting when the engine is cold & sometimes it's not starting when the engine is hot.
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I drive a 2005 Camry SE. In the mornings, when I start it up for the first time, my engine almost...growls. That's the only word I can think of. Not even growl. But instead of purring like a kitten, it purrs like a tiger . And it's only when I first back it out and then take off. Once it's good and warmed up, it drives and sounds perfectly. Shifts beautifully.
And this morning, I let it warm up for awhile and it didn't make any noise when I took off.
I talked to my coworker about it and she said she had a similar issue with her 2004 Saturn Vue and it was something about a manifold, but couldn't remember what it was called. And she said her mechanic was able to fix it, but only temporarily and then told her it would cost her big bucks to fix it permanently.
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I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
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I took my wife's 05 Solara to the dealer for the pully recall recently and had the serpentine belts replaced while they had them off. Now there is a short belt squeak during cold start up only. I called the dealer and they said to bring it back which I plan to do asap. 2005 3.3 V-6 Solara ....
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After fixing a misfire on cylinder 4 (bad plug) I find two other problems on a 2005 Camry I bought recently. It has 88k miles (bought at 85k) has new plugs, air filter, and oil changed recently.
When I start the car in the morning a puff of blueish smoke comes out and doesn't come back until it gets started again after getting cold. Has a strange chemical smell. Also when it starts it shoots up to 2k RPMs and slowly goes down to a notch below 1k after a minute or two.
The other thing is that when cruising at around 40MPH and just holding that speed the car will start to vibrate intermittently. Not just the steering wheel or anything, it's felt throughout the car. I also notice that the RPMs fluctuate slightly, just a notch up and down as the vibrations come and go. If I let go of the gas it stops, if I accelerate, it stops.
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