I've tried to do some internet search on my dad camry that is stuttering at 1800 - 2000 rpm. the car drives fine & all but every time, the rpm is at 1800 - 2000, the car would stutter or it is not smooth and/or normal.
View 14 Replies2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
View 12 RepliesMy 2005 F150 makes a diesel sound when I accelerate. It only does it between 1600 to 1800 RPM and stops. It only does it in overdrive. Its a 5.4 liter with about 95000 miles on it. What this could be? I cant tell if the noise is coming from the tranny or engine.
View 1 RepliesMight be a long shot here, but I JUST had this noise/rattle pop up in my '12 GTI 6MT w/ 13k miles.
Turns out I found someone who posted a video with basically the same noise:
Another one:
I hear the same noise while stopped and revving the engine as well as when driving if I let off the throttle and let the RPM's sweep down past the same rev range (1,800-2,000). Sounds like it's coming from the passenger side area.
I'm under warranty so I'm going to take it to the dealership...but I know how they can be with rattles.
I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
I have a 2002 Camry XLE with 43k miles. When i accelerate from stop too quickly its as if the car cannot shift gears or something quick enough. It just stutters and then picks up as if nothing happened? This only happens when accelerating from zero.
View 5 RepliesI've been having a problem with my 1991 Toyota Camry, which has a manual transmission. Sometimes when I am accelerating, it seems to stutter, something other people have referred to as "missing". It seems to happen when I am in "too high a gear", by which I mean for example, if it is happening while I'm accelerating in 4th gear, the stuttering will stop if I downshift to 3rd gear. Friends have suggested I need a tuneup, others think it may just need new spark-plugs, but the fact that it depends on what gear I'm in strikes me as odd (not that I know much of anything about cars, though).
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L with about 180,000 miles on it. I'm currently in the middle of a road trip, and today my car's been stuttering as I've started it up. After the car sits idle for a while, it stutters as I turn the key ("chug-chug-chug-chug-chu-chu-chu-chu-fail" is about how it goes). When I take the keys out and put them in again for another shot, it manages to start on the second or third try.
It runs OK once the engine gets going, and after I've been driving for a while I can turn it off and on again, without any problem. My main questions are: (1) Is this likely an issue with the starter, alternator, or something completely different? and (2) just how serious is it? If I can get the car running can I make it another ~1500 miles, or should I try to find a dealership before making it back home?
I just traded my 2014 Toyota Tacoma for a 2016 Camry XSE and have been hearing some weird audio stuttering when playing audio through bluetooth. My 2014 truck streamed perfectly and now I get a half second stutter intermittently.
Currently on a Verizon note 4 with latest updates. My entune System info is below:
Model ID: 15TD DANA-EA01
SAM ID: AEAICNWHAV
Hard No. : 86140-06690
Audio: 0802
Operating System: 0714
Called Toyota and they said there currently isn't any updates and to try the system with another phone to see if it changes anything.
Not sure why it would work before and not now .
I've only owned a 6.0 for about 10 months now. I have a 2005 SCab FX4 with 125,000 miles on it. It has an Airaid cold air intake and MBRP exhaust without a muffler, everything else is stock. The stuttering/hesitation starts at about 1500 rpm, is worst at 1600rpm and seem so to go away at 2000rpm. It also seems to hesitate when I barely press the gas pedal while driving. Based on other fuel issues with other vehicles, I would assume this is a fuel problem, but am not well versed in the 6.0 engines. Fuel filters were said to be good by the dealership about 10,000 miles ago. EGR valve was replaced last week. I'm not blowing smoke of any color, even at WOT. I was thinking an injector may be the issue, but I show no other symptoms besides the hesitation/vibration. I don't feel any lack of power when I give it full throttle. I would like to know a definitive way to diagnose the problem without going to the stealership.
View 7 Replies2005 6.0 133000 miles... Truck has been stuttering and running rough for about 2 weeks, warms up and is somewhat better. Would stutter in the RPM range of 1600 to 2100 RPM, can push down on accelerator and power through it with no problems. Checked codes and got PO269 Contribution Cylinder 3. Changed all filters and oil change along with a bottle of hot shot secret in the oil. Truck is now blowing blackish grey smoke under throttle and when idling that smells like fuel. No coolant in oil, and no oil in coolant.is the injector shot, or injector sleeve bad?
View 6 RepliesI have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 180.000 miles ( first owner )
Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold )
Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off button after this sputtering always goes away.
My transmission fluid level when HOT is 1 inch above HOT mark
And when in cold next ( morning ) label is still above HOT mark
Fluid level never goes down to COLD mark
What are the cause of the tran fluid be on same level and can sputtering be the symptom of it?
I've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
As the title says, I have a 2013 accent with an automatic transmission and 63k miles. Just bought it, used. The car seems to be fine, except I've noticed that when I am giving the engine some gas and it has work to do, i.e. accelerating or going up a hill, it will squeek / chirp a bit, but only between 1800 and 2000 rpm. Its not very loud, and goes away when it's outside of that rpm range. It seems to happen more often once the engine is warm and when the car is already at speed, rather than when it's revving in park or accelerating from a standstill.
Here's a 47 second video I took inside the car while driving. [URL] .....
It's a bit quiet, sry about that, all I have is windows movie maker. The sound is present at 0:08, 0:16, 0:36, and 0:45.
Is this something I should worry about? I saw another thread which mentioned "dieseling", a sound like a diesel engine caused by a bad knock sensor, leading to incorrect ignition/valve timing. It sounds a little bit like a diesel engine to me, is this the same thing?
I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 pickup that is running terrible at any RPM under 1800. It is also bad under acceleration at any RPM, or when the a/c is on. The truck is showing no problem codes at all. I have been throwing parts at it with no success. I have replaced in order - the air cleaner, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and even the timing belt.
View 2 RepliesVehicle: 2006 Mk IV Golf 2.0 GLS With 82766 mi
Back story: I purchased the vehicle from my dad who did regular maintenance except that somehow spark plugs and wires slipped through the cracks until now. A few months ago (while I was in training) it apparently started showing CEL but the few times it came on, my wife said it just disappeared. Two weeks ago, it came on again and I had the code read which came back as P0420. I took it in and they replaced the rear cat after which it ran well for a few days. Then the CEL came on again but went off before I could get out in the shop. This weekend I went ahead and changed the oil and may have over filled it slightly. The next day I went to change the spark plugs and after changing 4, 1, 3 it started to miss fire in 4 and 1. I reset both spark plugs and got 4 firing again, but 1 remained bad. With a friend I determined there was a weak spark in 1 and changed the wire but no change.
Current situation: As it stands now, it's still miss firing. The worst seems to be between 1200- 1800 rpm and if I keep it above there the light will stop flashing and even turn off on some cases. I've read that heart mixed with moisture(I just moved from AZ to WA) can lead to a cracked coil pack or that the injectors can go bad. Should I just take it to vw specialist?
When my Tig is cold, it seems to be very jerky or sluggish at 1500-1800rpm. There is definitely something happening at that range of RPM , almost seems like it's slipping and is jerky.
I know these 2.0's are notorious for the timing tensioner going (I have an 09) - could this be somehow related? I know that at a start I always get the famous rattle for a few seconds until oil pressure builds.
I have an 09 Xterra with a 6 cylinder engine. It's been running fine, except for a noise that only occurs exactly at 1800 rpm. It's not too loud, almost like a rubbing/grinding from the engine compartment. Does not perfect performance at all, and barely noticeable with the radio playing. Noise does not occur in neutral, but does occur in any gear. I've been using a synthetic blend oil, and switching from conventional did not make a difference.
View 1 RepliesJust purchased a beautiful 2007 ES 350. Love it but when I start it first thing in the morning, the idles shoots to 1800 for a second then up to 2000 for about 10 seconds then slowly comes down to 600ish. Also, during this "1800 and 2000" time, the oil maintenance light comes for a few seconds. Oil was changed just prior to purchase. Car has 100k and rides immaculate- 25.5 mpg mixed.
View 4 RepliesNoticed yesterday a slight whistle from turbo in my 108,000 mile MY2008 3.0tdi ( the engine is new at 90k miles, but the turbo was transferred over).
Its barely audible, a gentle whistle from about 1500 to 1800 rpm on moderate acceleration. It's then lost in general engine/ road noise. Car drives smoothly and pulls as normal.
Only noticeable on quite road surfaces, radio off, etc, and no more than I recall as standard from earlier turbo diesel Audi & BMW cars from the 1990's.
A quick on-line search indicates carbon build-up can be an issue? In the past few years my mileage has dropped way down to maybe 9k miles per year, mostly shorter trips & not as much higher speed motorway as previously.
If this is the potential end in sight for the turbo, can the unit be refurbished.
It's a 2004 4wd 4.6 v8 with 140,000 miles. My wife was driving around town today and had to park it at her daughter's house because even if you floor it,the engine will only rev to about 1500-1800 rpm's and idles really low,maybe 600 rpm. she said right before it started running bad,there was a bad smell. Also there is a humming/rattling noise that sounds like it's coming from the upper intake/throttle body area. I went and looked at it,tried to pull codes.
The check engine light isn't on and there are no codes stored in the computer. A couple of days ago,there was code po420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)and the check engine light was on. Engine was running fine. I cleared the code,and it never came back. I am not sure this is related,just trying to give all info possible.