Someone had worked on the car and front caliper pins got mixed up. Where the pin with the rubber piece goes into. The top or bottom of the caliper. and is it the same for both sides.
View 2 RepliesI've had an intermittent rattle for a bit on front drivers side. Checked sway bar links and they are good. I grabbed the caliper and it actually rattles at the slides. I replaced the slides last week on the front end and still rattles. Passenger side is good, but drivers isn't. How to address this?
View 2 RepliesI'm in need of what's going on with my 2005 Toyota Camry 2.4L (American Build), Non-skid, on the front brakes.
About 2 months ago my L/F brakes just locked up. So, I towed it to the dealership to have the brakes looked at and worked on. They said my Camry was locking up because the L/F caliper is freezing up. So, what the dealership did is replace the 2 front rotors, new brake pads, and new calipers. Got the brake fluid flushed out, also. Now, after about a thousand miles later and about 2 months, the same thing is happening. The L/F caliper are locking up.
I brought it back to the dealership and they said NOW, that it's the "ABS Actuator Pump Assembly" and the parts/labor would cost roughly $ 1300 dollars.. Now, when they replaced that part. The same problem is still happening. The L/F caliper is locking up. Luckily, when it was locking up I didn't drive the vehicle to far to damage the brand new brakes that was put in the first place.
My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
I have an 05 with a seized front caliper. What other vehicle has the same one? Does 4 runner or any other Toyotas have the same caliper?
View 5 RepliesIs this repairable or would it be better to just replace it ? Ive never rebuilt one of these.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2005 chevy malibu maxx. The front driver side brake caliper does not retract unless i open the bleeder screw. if I leave it overnight it will retract until i have to use it a couple times then ill have to open the bleeder screw. I've been told if the piston retracts when i open the bleeder then the caliper is OK. What i should look for? (It does have ABS).
View 2 Replies2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
How do I go about removing the pins in the trunk lid and trunk liner/carpeting?
View 9 RepliesI've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
View 2 RepliesAt my last dealer performed oil change, he writes "CDM front caliper service due next time". He says something about needing to lube the front calipers .....
Is this service that should be done, or is the dealership service department looking for a chance to make money for unneeded service?
I had 15,000 miles on my 2010 Prius at that time. If needed, is it something I can easily do myself?
My front right caliper does not work. was changed ( both sides) also hose from right side because it still did not work. Found that fluid gets from reservoir to abs but does not come out to front right wheel. Place air pressure from hose to abs, and runs fine, from reservoir to abs and runs fine from abs to out from abs to front right and air does not go in.
But when pressure goes from out of abs to in abs from reservoir air flows fine also. What is going on...
I heard a grinding noise coming from the right front tire last night. Came home, removed the wheel / tire and noticed the caliper was stuck pushing the pads against the rotor. I pushed the caliper pistons back in so they're not frozen, just sticking.
View 14 RepliesLast Spring, my 2007 Camry Hybrid (54k miles back then, now at 62k) developed an obnoxious squeal coming out of the left rear wheel while driving at highway speeds. It takes several minutes at this speed to make the sound, so I believe wheel temperature triggers the sound. Touching the brake would temporarily silence it. After parking the car, I discovered that the left rear wheel was very warm, while the others were cool. I also saw excessive brake dust on the wheel.
I pulled the wheel to inspect. and saw that the track of the brake pad had moved a millimeter or two up the disk, so now part of the pad was over the "rusty" portion of the disk. The rusty, unworn part of the disc was thicker, so the part of the pad that was now over it was rubbing. At higher speeds, the rubbing would heat up the wheel and I'd gradually get the loud squeal.
I dismantled the pad, cleaned it, tightened the mounting brackets (via slight bending) and put it all back together. This solved the problem for 8 months. It just came back to haunt me on a recent highway trip...
It's a pain to take it all apart, especially if I am only temporarily fixing the issue. The pads still have over 85% live (including the rubbing one) and the disks look great on all wheels with no vibrations.
I have an '04 Toyota solar a. In 2012 I replaced the rear calipers and rear break pads and rotors Now 18 months later I have been told that my rear caliper piston is frozen and I have to replace both calipers and beak pad and rotors. Does this sound reasonable. It will cost me another $600. What should I do
View 11 RepliesStarted to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
View 12 RepliesMy buddy has been having a strange problem with his 275,000 mile 2003 F150 2wd. The right side caliper will lock up out of the blue and will not release for anything. We put 3 news calipers on it within a 4 week period thinking that we had a defective one but no change. I am thinking either a bad brake line or, more likely, the front abs block...
View 1 RepliesMy teenage son just bought his first car, a 1991 Ford Explorer XLT 2-wheel drive. I had it checked out by our mechanic before I let him shell out the money, and everything seemed OK. It's the prototypical low-mileage car (127k actual, confirmed by Carfax) owned by a little old man who took good care of it (stack of service records a foot high) and didn't drive it very much.
Earlier this week ... he'd driven it for about two weeks with no issues ... the left front brake caliper locked up on it, to the point where it heated up enormously, the pads and rotors got so hot they were discolored and some transmission fluid got blown out by the strain.
He took it to our regular mechanic, great guy who we've used for years and has worked magic with our cars, he got into it and he diagnosed the problem as ... I hope I'm explaining it right ... a little pin or piston or something in the caliper was upside down. He put it back in the right way, and everything seemed to be OK, although he said my son would probably end up needing a brake job sooner than later because of the way the pad got ground down.
FYI, master cylinder is full of fluid, our mechanic couldn't see any leaks anywhere. Although when we took the car to the mechanic, my son tried to back it up to get a better angle at getting into the service bay, and the pedal went to the floor.
Fast forward two days, and danged if the same thing didn't happen with the right front caliper, seized up although he didn't get it as hot as the other time, parked it a lot quicker. And of course it happens on Friday going into the weekend, when our mechanic isn't working, he won't be able to do anything until Monday, which leaves us scrambling trying to get everyone to work, etc., down one car.
Doing a little online homework ... which we probably should've done before my son made this purchase ... I'm seeing a lot of brake issues with '91 Explorers. I asked my mechanic if he thought there was some ABS-related problem here and he said he didn't think so.
I will say that the car apparently sat undriven for a long time, which I know can unleash a lot of issues. What might be going on here? Do we just need to go ahead and replace the calipers, any hoses, etc., as preventive maintenance?
Yesterday, I noticed that my right front brake caliper seemed to be sticking. This morning I jacked up the front end, and could barely turn the right front wheel when it was off the ground. So, I have concluded that that caliper is sticking. So, here is the question(s): what is the best way to repair this (new caliper, rebuilt caliper, or rebuild it myself), do I need to do both sides the same or can I just do the one that is acting up, and should I expect to pay. I have some mechanical ability, but that Haynes manual doesn't make too much sense to me. Getting it professionally repaired is extremely inconvenient, I need to be back at school (300 miles away) Tuesday evening, and probably couldn't get it in to get it done before then.
View 12 RepliesI'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
View 13 RepliesI'm having a tough time separating the brass fitting, even using a 10mm wrench. I noticed it moves below the bracket, so I'm trying to hold the oval with square corner base on the hose itself, but even then, have started to round the corners on the brass nut.
I'm gonna continue with the job, leaving the old hose, and will have to come back to this later, because I'm installing a new caliper (old one froze, and I just found out why, broken lower slide).
Any trick to separating the fitting between steel brake line and rubber?
ETA, to replace the brass fitting, does it mean cutting the tube, inserting another fitting, and flaring the end? I hate to leave the old hose or a rounded nut.