Camry :: 2005 2.4L 4cyl - Smoke At Cold Start And Vibrations At 40MPH
May 3, 2014
After fixing a misfire on cylinder 4 (bad plug) I find two other problems on a 2005 Camry I bought recently. It has 88k miles (bought at 85k) has new plugs, air filter, and oil changed recently.
When I start the car in the morning a puff of blueish smoke comes out and doesn't come back until it gets started again after getting cold. Has a strange chemical smell. Also when it starts it shoots up to 2k RPMs and slowly goes down to a notch below 1k after a minute or two.
The other thing is that when cruising at around 40MPH and just holding that speed the car will start to vibrate intermittently. Not just the steering wheel or anything, it's felt throughout the car. I also notice that the RPMs fluctuate slightly, just a notch up and down as the vibrations come and go. If I let go of the gas it stops, if I accelerate, it stops.
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I have a 2003 Solara 4cyl, some months ago it started to blow light blue smoke on start, but would go away after a few minutes. My mech, could be the valve guides. Then about a month ago it blew a head gasket, didn't overheat though, as I stopped, added water and went to the mech. So new gasket and a valve job, but it still blows smoke on start. THe mech said going to 20w50 might work, it didn't. I check the oil last week, thought it should a couple of qts low, so I added oil, but the blue smoke is still there, and I started to smell oil burning. I thought maybe I added too much, so I add another oil change w/20w50....still have the oil burning, blue smoke on start... The mech thinks might be leaking in the rings...ugh....probably could/ve bought a new engine by now...... The check engine light had been intermittent, the mech said it the catalytic converter....it finally went off by itself four days ago....maybe it burned out..........
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder, and I have been trying to figure out a hard cold start issue that also causes whitish grayish smoke to come out of the tailpipe when I first start the car.
When I first start the car after it has sitting at least 8-10+ hours the engine will crank over and being starting up but its almost as if it hesitates and then fully starts up. Once it does start the smoke will come out of the tailpipe for about 10 - 30 seconds and smells somewhat of burning fuel. I think the problem may be a leaking fuel injector. When I use my car during the day this issue doesn't happen at all after first startup
Coolant level and color : Normal no changes
Oil Color and level : Normal no changes
Tune Up: Done about 2 months ago
I uploaded a video to youtube of the car starting up here [URL] ....
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I have a 2005 4Cyl Camry - transmission replaced under warranty at 89K. The car now has 150K and I have been having a couple tranny issues recently.
Most alarming - When the car is warm and you shift from Park to Drive the car hesitates for 3-5 seconds before it slams into Drive.
Now the car threw a CEL about a month ago. Took into the Toyota and they took a look at it. Said the code was related to 3 Shift Sensor Solenoids, so they cleared the codes and took the car for a test drive and said "all clear" car is fine and there's nothing wrong.
I'm wondering if one of the sensors is going bad and it just isn't throwing a code yet.
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My 03 Camry is blowing cold air on the passenger side while the heat is on. The drivers side blows hot air as it should. The coolant is full. Its a 4cyl LE and does not have dual climate control.
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Recently purchased a used 2003 Toyota Camry LE. After a recent oil change at the local Toyota dealer we noticed that when we start the car in the morning a puff of white smoke spews out from the exhaust for a few seconds and stops. There is no more white smoke while driving the car around. The car runs perfect and has no power loss. Initially we had noticed it was losing coolant. All the discussion on the internet pointed to a bad head gasket. We had a mechanic look at it and it turned out that the radiator was leaking and hence the loss of coolant. He also noticed the oil was overfilled so he brought it down to the normal level. The mechanic also checked the head gasket and claimed there were no issues with it. Replacing the radiator took care of the coolant loss but the white smoke still comes out only the first time the car is started.
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In have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120,000 miles. Upon starting the engine there is a puff of blue smoke with smell of oil burning. There does not appear to be any smoke during the running of the car. What the root cause could be? Rings? Head gasket?
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So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry 4cyl. Vehicle had ran hot. Performed the procedure and sent the head to the machine shop for the works. Replaced the timing chain and the oil pump chain along with the tensioner, rails and sprockets. Performed the timing chain procedure and even questioned the information about the counterclockwise rotation against the figures of clockwise,, but aligned all of the links to the dots on cams, crank, oil pump and crank. Vehicle spins tries to crank but, floods all of the plugs, no codes, good compression , fire and even hand rotated the crank to check all of the timing marks and all looks fine.
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I have a 2005 Camry that is not leaking coolant (checking water level every morning) it has a puff of white smoke the first start of the day. I initially suspected condensation, as it only produces white smoke when temperature goes down to 65 degrees or cooler during the night.
However the longer it sits without starting, greater the amount of smoke. If I do not start the car at all on Saturday and on Sunday afternoon I start it, there is a lot more white smoke than I get every morning during weekdays. If it was condensation, by Sunday afternoon when temp isn't as cool, shouldn't all the water collecting evaporated?
Assuming it is condensation, what part failing would cause this? This car did not have this white smoke issue when it was new.
Not sure if it is related but the engine stutters on the first start of the day. Stutter also gets worse the colder the temp and the longer it's been sitting without starting. During summer when it's 85+, it does not stutter in the morning.
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Just got a DSG 2015 GTI 2-DOOR, and after 2 days of ownership, there is suddenly a shudder/vibration when I start the car in the morning.
RPMs start at around 1000, then drop to 750, and then 650, and the car starts to vibrate/shake a bit, almost like a heartbeat...
After engine oil temperature goes to ~80 Celsius, the shudder becomes much less pronounced. This all happens in "P", and doesn't happen in "D".
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2005 Camry SE 2AZ-FE 4cyl 5 speed manual bought new well maintained 119000 miles. Makes a funny noise on cold start up when temp is below about 20 deg f just the first start up of the day. The noise sounds like a ZIP and is just for a second or 2 at the most. I can feel it in the steering wheel like a high frequency vibration. Seems like it's doing it at not quite as cold a temp but has been doing this since the first winter I bought the car new.
Hard to isolate without a second person standing out there in the cold, definitely coming from under the hood. I'm thinking it could be the idler pulley. Serpentine belt is original but has no cracks and is properly tensioned. Since it's done this since day one I'm hesitant to start pulling things apart. Car runs great aside from that. Mobil Super High Mileage oil 4,000 mi change interval, Toyota Filter always. The noise is just after the engine initially fires not starter related in my opinion.
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I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
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I took my wife's 05 Solara to the dealer for the pully recall recently and had the serpentine belts replaced while they had them off. Now there is a short belt squeak during cold start up only. I called the dealer and they said to bring it back which I plan to do asap. 2005 3.3 V-6 Solara ....
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My problems in my ac begin last year around Summer. My ac was blowing hot and not cold and once it even blew some kind of smoke out of the vents. It only did that once and hasn't since. I went to good year and put some freon in the car. And it started to blow cold again and I was good for a while. Well I didn't need the cold air for the last few months till the heat started up again.
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My 2005 Mazda Tribute has an ABS warning light that comes on as soon as I reach 40 mph. It will remain on after that no matter what speed I drive until I turn the car off. The braking system appears to function normally with normal breaking even if the light is on. With hard braking the ABS performs as it should too, rapidly oscillating the braking force. If I restart the car and keep the driving speed below 40 mph the ABS light never comes on. Otherwise, the car runs great. What is causing the ABS light to come on at 40 mph and how do I fix it?
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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05, 170k miles. Studded and egr delete but I don't have paperwork on either. Got a pretty good deal on the truck but I have a few questions..
It runs and starts great, warm and cold, with only a little blue smoke on cold startup. but every now and then when idling (say at a stoplight) the engine gets noticeably rougher, not terrible. No smoke. Goes away after 5-10 seconds.
When I remove the oil cap, there is a "puffing" blow by, not constant, and its not enough to blow the cap off if I set it on backwards. Just puffing.
This may be related, but I pulled the starter wire off the drivers side and touched it to the battery to hear how it cranks, and there is a noticeable blip in the cranking, its not 100% smooth.
Don't think I am losing any coolant. Runs great, getting 15MPG. No CEL. I went and had a relative comp. check done, cylinder 7 is the problem. We both are leaning toward there being a valve problem So I pulled the valve cover, now I have a few questions.
1. When I crank the engine over without starting, I can hear a "pfft....pfft....pfft" chug of air every revolution. I pulled the cover to see if I had a obvious rocker problem, but can't see anything because the oil rail is in the way. I'm guessing this air puff is sign of a valve problem?
2. When the truck is running, there is a small, steady stream of oil running down the rail and dripping onto the valve cover mating surface of the head, I think it was at every injector, definitely 2 of them. Was getting dark, so hard to see. Is this normal, or do I have a leak? Truck has updated dummy plugs.
My next step is probably going to be pull the rail, see if there is a obvious problem, then pull the head. And tips for me? Planning on having the HVAC evacuated then pulling the airbox.
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I have been having a problem with my Honda overheating while the A/C is on, this is the thing though on any day when the weather is 85 or lower I can run my A/c all day no problem. But when it is 90 degrees out side my engine starts to over heat while the A/C is on, how ever as soon as I turn the A/c off temperature needle goes back down even in 90 degree weather.....
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