Camry :: 2004 - Rear Wheel Won't Spin
Jul 25, 2015
Replaced rear brakes for a 2004 camry. Just decided to change out pads/rotors. Rotors were stuck on, had to use the little bolt holes to thread in bolts and push out the rotor. Time to change pads, pads came off fine but when I put on new pads and tried to put it on the rotor, the gap was too small. Seemed like a stuck caliper. Tried to remove the slide bolts, top slide bolt was fine, bottom slide bolt had a lot of resistance and would not come off the slide. Regreased it, re-assembled it and it had a lot of gap to slide over the rotor.
Reassembled everything, tried to spin the rotor by hand and it was fine. Put on wheel, lugged it down and it wouldn't spin at all. Drove it, seemed fine with no pulling but the one rotor was definitely running hotter (163 vs 113) than the other side after a 5 minute drive.What would cause it to spin freely without the wheel, but not spin when the wheel is lugged down?
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
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I have a 2003 four wheel drive Kia Sorento. When not in four wheel drive it is rear wheel drive. On two occasions while driving on snow packed roads, I have had the rear loose traction and spin out luckily going into a soft snow bank. I have good tires, was driving about 15 miles per hour on a flat straight road and not applying the brakes. I can't figure out what is happening. So I started to put it in four wheel drive whenever there is snow pack on the roads. Typically I thought four wheel drive was only for "tough" conditions, but I haven't had a spin since using four wheel drive.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry 4cyl. Vehicle had ran hot. Performed the procedure and sent the head to the machine shop for the works. Replaced the timing chain and the oil pump chain along with the tensioner, rails and sprockets. Performed the timing chain procedure and even questioned the information about the counterclockwise rotation against the figures of clockwise,, but aligned all of the links to the dots on cams, crank, oil pump and crank. Vehicle spins tries to crank but, floods all of the plugs, no codes, good compression , fire and even hand rotated the crank to check all of the timing marks and all looks fine.
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I'm an owner of a 2013 DSG Golf R. Today on my way to work, my car did a wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. This is the first time it did this and I don't know what caused it. For those who didn't experience launching a DSG Golf R, here is a little insight. The car would usually launch in 2nd gear in a normal driving mild push on the throttle at speeds over 5 mph. From standstill, WOT, or a strong push on the throttle, it will launch in 1st.
I was on my way to work and as usual I turned off traction control. I slowed down for a speed bump and the car was doing around 5 mph in 2nd gear. I Pushed on the throttle and as always the car downshifted to 1st. However this time it didn't hook up as it used to do; instead, I felt the car spinning its tires, upshifted to 2nd at 4000 rpm and kept spinning. I released the throttle and it went back to normal.
I tried multiple pulls from standstill on my way back to work and the car was normal. What could be the cause of this incident? My car has a stage 1 tune..
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Just rebuild my civic 2000 b4ra trans. after I install the trans back and the car does not move under all gears. the manual says the fluid should be 6.2 Qt for overhaul and I added an external filter and an external cooler should take another 1 qt (?). I totally added 6 qt and the fluid level is ok. I put torque converter upside to drain and some fluids come out. but did not count how much.
Another weird thing is that I can not push the car down the drive way with slope with engine off and brake down and neutral gear. I jack up the front and give some gas under D4 and the wheel does not spin.
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I have a 2011 Tiguan 125 TSI with 4 motion and recently have been getting quite a bit of front wheel spin especially on right turns. I can hear/feel the front wheel spin and also the TCS light is coming on. When the road is wet, it gets worse. Is this to be expected? The car is 2 years old and has only 24000kms on it so am a little disappointed with this. What may be wrong?
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I seem to be having a issue on take off with my new Super Duty, it has the michelin atx2 tires than come on these trucks. On any hill or grade on take off she just spins and traction control flashes on dash, what the heck? Do I need to pull out the 4x4 switch to engage the e-locker so this thing will move? Seems crazy to have to put her into 4wheel when there is only a inch of snow on the ground... My 6.0 did this sort of due to all the torque it had, but that had those crap Contitracs on it till I swapped them for BFG at..
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My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
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I'm experiencing less torque and acceleration than I was getting when I first got the car. The car doesn't even have 1,000 miles on it yet. I'm wondering what is wrong with it. When I first got it, just pressing the gas half way would makes the tires spin till 6k rpm. Now the tires don't even spin while pressing it even further than 50% throttle. When I first got it, it had regular gas. Now I use 93 octane fuel. This should give it more power? I'm very confused as to why it was give so much and then now output so little.
My vehicle uses the Bridgestone Turanza tires.
This car has virtually every feature possible. BSM, Back Up Cam, LED DRL, leather, etc.
I've always owned Camry's. 1993, 2010, and now my 2013.
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I have a 2002 Camry with an A/C problem. When I turn on the A/C, the A/C light flashes and the compressor does not spin. I have check the following:
1. The compressor is fully functional when I feed power to it.
2. The A/C fuse, 10A, is functional.
3. The Mag CLT relay is functional.
4. The cabin filter is new.
5. There is enough refrigerant.
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My Explorer is a 1997 with the control trac 4x4 system. It's only purpose in life at the moment is to plow snow and its been doing that quite well. I typically leave it in 4lo all the time. Every once in a while, I will switch it to the other modes to ensure they are all working.
Today I was plowing and it looks like I'm getting nothing, or next to nothing to the front wheels. There is some shudder if the rear tires begin to spin, but the front never spin, or lock up. I can feel/hear the transfer case shift when I change modes between auto/4hi/4lo as I usually do, but the front wheels just are not doing their job. All three modes are not driving the front wheels.
The transmission was rebuilt a few years ago, and it's shifting fine. I'm suspecting the transfer case. Only my OD light is flashing, but it only does that once in a blue moon. I plugged my code reader in and it could not read those codes. I was able to clear the light though.
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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I have 2007 Camry LE with about 88K miles on it. I get the growling noise from the read right wheel, particularly when turning right. I can very clearly hear it inside. Interestingly, this happens only first couple of times after I pull it off from parking.
I recently had the brakes and rotors replaced but the noise did not start coming until a couple of weeks later. I suspected it must have something to do with tires so I got them rotated. But that didn't stop the noise.
Initially, when I first heard the noise about 2 months back, it was very seldom but now it's almost everyday. When I got the tires rotated, I was told that I needed the rear wheels aligned. (But if it's due to alignment issue, shouldn't be coming from both wheels?)
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Rust proofing the rear wheel well: I was trying to rust proof/coat the rear wheel well and surrounding area to make sure i get the bolts under it. Back of the car is where most of the salt sits as the undercurrents with wind tend to drive the salt deep in the quarter panels and around tank area. I wanted to confirm if these cars still have the wheel well bolt securing the bumper to the quarter panel with a rust prone steel bolt.
When weather gets better i'll take to get sprayed somewhere. But for now i wanted to leave something on it of a coat after a good cleaning. Hate dam salt or whatever they are using these days.
I also noticed that the SE's wheel well internal sheathing was much stronger looking, solid than what's on my LE - a felt type material. Besides the wheel well rim on SE has a band of silicone type substance overlaid on it. Right?
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I was under my car the other day and i noticed this dent in the rear of the subframe, just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. I didn't see damage anywhere else. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping.
I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. What this is or if this is in need of getting fixed? They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
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I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping. I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
Current suggestions:
• Cracked bearing race. It could be another problem entirely having to do with the suspension mounts or axle mounts but let's hope these new mechanics will figure it out.
• Problem with a wheel bearing
• Struts and suspension components
• Bushings and parts
• Loose upper strut center nut or from loose upper strut mounting nuts
I took it back to a shop but they are thinking the sound is actually coming from the body near the roofing area in the right rear portion of the car. They seem to think based on the sound (metal popping only when that wheel is lower (like coming out of a driveway angled, or going over a pothole)) that it is the metal body but it would cost and arm and a leg to get in to even find out what it was. They assured me that it wasn't impacting the safety of the body and is just a funky sound. The sound is much louder in the car than outside which I think kind of supports their theory. Are they right and it won't impact the safety?
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No crank with key, can jump and it will crank over, no Radio in RUN position, work fine in ASSy position. Engine will not spin over at all with key. Truck low miles like new, what gives? All fuses good and check a full 12volts on both sides. 2008 - 5.4 ....
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I might be buying a 14 Camry tomorrow. I test drove it the other day and had it looked at by belle tire. They said the rear tires are choppy causing noisy driving. On the highway it sounds really noisy in the front of the vehicle. Everything else checked ok on the inspection but I was trying to find some wheels that will fit the Camry. 5x114 which my parents have a 95 lexus es300 that has 5x114 wheels. Although the tires are 205 65 15. Do I could put those on and will they clear everything to be able to fit?
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