Camry :: 2004 XLE Transmission Disengages Intermittently And Engine Light Comes On
Aug 8, 2013
My 2004 Camy XLE 4 cyl has developed an intermittent problem. So far this has only happened after the car has sat in the sun at my office for the day and the temp is around 90. When I begin to take off the transmission disengages intermittently and the engine light comes on. After a couple of miles the problem stops, but the engine light stays on. Usually the light goes off the next day.
I have had the car to dealer. First time reset code P0500 and problem returned. Second time, dealer found update for engine control module. "performed to reflash ECM per TSB 0072-04.
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I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
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My check engine light comes on intermittently, fuel consumption normal. I have not had any noticeable performance issues. I took it to O'Rielly's for a scan but they could not establish a connection to get a readout. Is there a special scan tool needed? The on board Lan Monitor shows EMV codes below, are they meaningful in any way?
Code Sub-code
01-DC 190-38-5
01-D5 190-52-F
01-D8 190-35-1
01-DB 190-11-F
01-DB 110-21-2
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I have a 2004 Accent GS. It is an automatic. I have had it for almost a year.
In early November, the check engine light came on when the temperature dropped drastically and it went off when it warmed up a bit about 3 days later. Since then it seems to come on randomly and stay on for a few days then go off (usually around once-twice a month). Then in late December I noticed that the car had trouble starting after I refueled it, the first two times I though it was because I had let the fuel get down too much. Now every time I fuel up it does this. But just the first time turning on the car and no other time after that.
The check engine light had not come on again for almost a month, and then about a week ago it came on again. I double checked all the fluids and the gas cap but that's about as far as my knowledge of cars goes. When the light has come on I have not really noticed any handling differences. However since I need to put the car through an inspection very soon it is now concerning me a bit more. What could be causing the check engine light to go on and off?
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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After having the rear axle seal replaced 3rd time, my 2004 Toyota makes a sound/noise behind the dash, drivers side, in the engine compartment. Noise is intermittent and only when braking. Hard to describe....electronic sound. Brake pedal feels like ABS system is kicking in. But no ABS light comes on. Mechanics all tell me, "when light comes on, bring it back". Had the brake system flushed today? Still makes the noise.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry V6. The warranty expired in Feb 2007. The car has only 67,000km.
The check engine light came on and the code is P0770, Solenoid E malfunction. The problem was first reported at 43,000km, when the car was still under warranty but only a transmission flush was performed and the code was reset.
I wrote Toyota and after almost two months they told me they do not cover it because is out of warranty and I do not qualify for the Goodwill program. I tried again to tell them that instead of fixing the root of the problem they temporarily covered it, but again I got a NO. No comments about the mileage, time, etc. Just the car is out of warranty and I'm out of luck.
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Turning on headlights cuts engine. Sometimes won't start at all even with lights off. All dash lights go out as well. I.e. when auxiliary is on only radio works, turning on headlights shuts off radio. Recently got a used alternator. Could not find any issues pertaining to the alternator. New battery as well.
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Twice now this has happened to me and I'm concerned it will become worse if I don't fix it. Driving down the road my engine has disengaged. By this I mean the vehicle both times has been at 55 MPH, my foot on the throttle rpms riding around 1300 revolutions, and the engine disengages rpms drop below idle and my "wait to start" light comes on. This both times lasts approximately 2 seconds and throttle reengages while still traveling 55 MPH, "wait to start" light goes off and its like it never happened. What's going on with my truck? Ford diesel 97 250 7.3 ...
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My 2006 Prius (156K miles) has recently started bucking and jerking when the ICE engages or disengages. The worst is if the car is stopped (brakes or in park) and the ICE kicks in (for instance if the A/C is running) - it will make the entire car jump. But it also happens in the normal course of driving, most often when the car is coasting for awhile and then I accelerate out of the coast - there is a noticeable jump as the ICE engages.
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2002 Honda Civic LX
Around 1 or 2 years ago, cruise control has started acting strangely. If weather or the engine are cold, and the road is smooth, then it works fine. However, in hot weather, or if the engine is hot, cruise control disengages and the car just slows down as if someone turned CC off. Sometimes this happens randomly, other times by a nudge from a bump in the road.
If I try to re-engage CC, it doesn't work. I have to reach to the CC master switch, turn that off, then back on, and then CC starts working again for a while - until I hit the next bump or something.
The problem seems to be getting slowly worse as time goes by. At first I had this problem in the middle of summer. Now CC is affected even in winter (or what passes for winter in California).
What could possibly cause this? If it's something that could be fixed by just replacing some component, I'd rather do it myself. But I don't know what part might be the culprit.
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this light comes on intermittently and does not go off unless engine is turned off, and then it goes out.
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This indicator light comes on intermittently. Eventually will go off on 07 Solara.
Odd thing seems to display just after passenger seat has been moved/adjusted or something medium weight placed on it.
Will reposition seat and check belt tensioner but, stays on for awhile.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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I have had an issue with my GX470 almost since I bought it in 2008. It will sometimes not engage in drive after backing out of a parking space.
It usually happens when it is warm and the car has been driving for awhile then I park for lunch or an errand. I come back start up the car put it into reverse backout of the car space and nothing for a good 5-6 seconds. Seems a lot longer when cars are waiting to take your space and honking.
Anyway I have been reporting it to Lexus at every service and getting a no trouble found. Over time it is occurring more regularly and it even happened at the dealership but of course I was the only one in my car at the time.
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Car: Camry 2004 xle 2.4 L .
My problem: based on P0032 code I replaced both O2 sensors (before and after catalytic converter) ..
Am still getting engine light on and code P0032.
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2005 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 141K miles.
For 6 months the battery light has been coming on intermittently, sometimes not coming on for two to three days and then does it again every so often during the fourth day and so on. Until recently, it's gone a record 6 days without coming on.
However, today it's stayed on all day. Usually, when it does come on, it will go back in in a minute or two. I'd gotten used to it, since the car has always started like nothing is wrong. However, tonight the ABS light came on with the battery light, then the Safety Bag light came on. Then, the radio died, clicking, static, then just dim light, The clock dimmed when the headlights were on, and the headlights weren't as bright as they should be. Stopped the car in a parking lot. Wouldn't not start again, but the dash would come on.
Got a jump and the car started up fine, but there wasn't enough power getting to anything to make the car do much of anything. The car didn't seem to have enough power to send to the transmission to shift, pressing the brake pedal made the dash go black.
Sat a while, got the car to start again, with a fight. Enough power to shift getting to the transmission, but quickly all the lights started coming on one by one again, and none of the lights were bright as they should be. Back to square one.
Just the battery? Replaced the alternator a year ago, when it killed the last battery. The current battery is a year to 13 months old.
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I have a 2005 Camry with 110,000 miles on it. Bought Toyota because I thought they were supposed to last and be such good cars...speedometer, tachometer intermittently going out along with ABS light coming on...took it to dealer, they said it was the combo meter and oh by the way the water pump needs to be replaced. Then get a call that it isn't the combo meter but the ECU that needs to be replaced and that the part is $1982.00. I have serviced the car religiously at the dealer and am very disappointed to have such problems in a car that is only 5 years old and has been taken care of...
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2002 Camry 4-cly. Last year, we the A/C light blink and the relay switch was then replaced. Worked for a bit, but then realized the Compressor Clutch was sticking and causing it to not turn on, at times shutting the engine off at idle!
Me and the wife replaced the entire AC system (Per regional mechanic)
AC Compressor
Accumulator
Desiccant
Well, the AC intermittently comes on and the A/C green light would flash. Over the past several weeks, the AC eventually become non-functional. Bringing the car back into the shop for a warranty claim, they measured the electrical power on the Compressor and it checks out fine. Paid $50 for the "diagnostic" and they suggested replacing the relay once again. We have an official Toyota (Denso) and one from AutoZone, and tried both relays with no luck. I don't know what else could be checked or considered being replaced?
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Toyota 2004 Camry door locks are working intermitently. I can only get in drivers door with door fob from outside. Inside, I can only unlock drivers door. Took to dealer and they said they tried the door fob and it work 50 times when they tried it. The key only works in the driver's side. The passenger side is very difficult to get to work. They said they couldn't do anything unless it was acting up. It does - when they are not there. Saw on line 2003 doors had a problem. What do I need to tell dealer to get them to fix this?
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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