Camry :: 2004 XLE Pulls To The Left When Driving - Alignment Is Correct
Apr 9, 2011
04 Camry XLE, 63k miles. Since we bought this car, it has pulled to the left. I've taken it to two shops I trust and they showed me the report showing that the alignment is correct. This leads me to believe there is a worn joint somewhere that allows the front wheels to aim a bit left when driving. Where would be a good place to start troubleshooting?
Background: So far, I've called Toyota to verify that our car is up to speed on all TSB's and it is.
I've put my hand over the intermediate steering shaft upper joint while my wife moves the wheel side to side. There is some play there, but not much. I'm not sure how much there should be.
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Before taking it in for an alignment, need to know whether or not both the front toe and the camber are adjustable on this vehicle?
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My 09 lancer pulls to the left even after alignment what are some of the reason its still pulling and when i apply the brakes it also pulls to the left....
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My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
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I started noticing about a year ago that when I drive my car, it pull to the right. This occurs at any speed. Every time I've gone in for service, I've asked them about this and multiple customer service reps have basically said "that's how this type of car drives". I've had them actually check the alignment as well, and only a couple of times have they had to adjust it, but it still seems to pull towards the right.
Driving a 2014 Lexus IS F Sport.
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So I had a flat a couple weeks ago, finally got around to patching it (professionally) and decided to get a wheel alignment and tire rotation at the same time. No prior problems whatsoever (drove straight as an arrow) but roads in Hawaii suck so I decided to have it done while my car was in. Got my Camry back and it pulled to the right, with the steering wheel a little crooked to the right too. Talk about leaving something well enough alone, which is what I should have done!
Tried to take it back the next day, but they were super busy so I went to another location (same chain) and they said they suspect it could be my tires, but if not, they'll realign. They ended up doing the alignment again. My car pulls less but the steering wheel is crooked to the LEFT instead of right now when driving straight.
Question: Do you think it could be the patched tire? The nail was 1-.1.5" from the sidewall. This tire is on the right rear. Looks fine, and was fine up until I got a nail in it. Right front tire looks fine too.
I asked my mechanic, along with my cousin who worked with cars and did alignments himself in a past life, and they both told me they don't think it's my tire(s). They both told me to take it back and have the alignment redone.
Is it possible to just have two bad alignments at two different locations with two different techs?? The chain I'm going to is locally owned and has been around forever, and my last alignment was from them so I don't know what's going on this time.
* I have Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires all around, with about 20K miles on them.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry that the steering wheel veers to the left while driving (not all the time) I have triedan alignment and a tire rotation and still have the problem.
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2000 jetta vr6 145k.
So when I bought this car it was not driving and hasn't been driving for a year or so, needed time chains and the whole 9 yards. Did that, everything is up and running as well as new brakes all around, snow tires until I can afford some all season.
While driving, only in gear, the car pulls to the left. Even with a touch of the gas pedal it's pulling left. As soon as I let off its going right. If I coast in neutral it holds straight like an arrow. I have replaced the bushings for the dogbone and trans mount with polyurethane thinking with the high mileage it would be the culprit. The control arm bushings seem to be ok, neither side has any play, no wheel bearing play, no tie rod play....so I'm stumped.
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2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
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I had my dealer install a set of H&R springs the mild drop option. He put it on the rack and reset the alignment. I drove it and it pulls hard to the left. The car has never done this before. He then took everything back off recheck the suspension and found nothing wrong. He realigned the car and it still pulls hard left. The car is a 2007 Camry SE.
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I have a 2004 Camry and I got an alignment at Firestone they rep told me that my rear left camber alignment is off, my right camber alignment is is within range.
Actual :-2.3 Range -2.0.-0.5
He recommended I change my struts as Toyota does not specify rear camber adjustment. Is this normal on car with 160k on it ?. I have seen several chamber kits out there should I just get one and go somewhere else for them to realign it with the kit ?
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1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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Recently I took my '07 Camry Hybrid for a free alignment check since I had never gotten an alignment done before on this car, which I bought used an year back. They found the Left Rear Toe at 0.01 which their system showed to be out of spec. They fixed it and gave me a print out with the before and after as usual. The "after" numbers read:
LEFT RIGHT
FRONT
CAMBER -0.9 -0.08
(0.1 to -1.4) (-1.4 to 0.1)
CASTER 2.8 3.0
(3.7 to 2.2) (2.2 to 3.7)
TOE -0.05 0.04
(-0.08 to 0.08) (0.08 to -0.08)
REAR
CAMBER -1.3 -1.9
(-0.6 to -2.1) (-2.1 to -0.6)
TOE 0.18 0.21
(0.08 to 0.24) (0.24 to 0.08)
No Caster applicable for the rear I guess.
My question is: is it alright that there's a mismatch between the right and left values? Is there something in the suspension that makes things even even when the right and left individually are at different angles?
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I got my alignment done today and everyone went into factory specs but the front camber. Both the front left and right are at 1.0. But the thing is that the car pulls to the right and I have to turn the wheel a little to the left to compensate
I have a tanabe spring install with 20x9.0 in the front with nitto 555 245/35/20. And 10.5 with 275/30/20 in the rear.
Do your cars pull to the right? Will the tires wear wrong? The car was back into specs except the cAmber in front.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that pulls to the left. I've had the alignment done - no change. I had the tires moved from the left to the right side - still no change. Firestone is recommending I all the front ball joins at a cost of $1200. Is that really the problem?
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Could my strut replacement have anything to do with my 2009 pulling left when I brake.
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What is the correct idle speed for a 2004 LE 4-cyl J-car? Mine seems to be idling around 500, according to the image, below.
Seems a little low, and when I start out it seems a tad sluggish until is stabilizes from the low idle to operating speed. Almost sounds like a sewing machine when she idles.. How does one adjust idle speed if necessary.
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It's an 08 Ford F-150. 4x4... Truck was pulling hard to the right. Took it in and got the alignment done, they told me front right was worn and would still pull slight right. When I drove it, still pulled just as hard. Took it back and had tires rotated, they test drove it multiple times and made small adjustments then told me it was good to go. Drove to work today and still pulling. Not quite as bad but definitely more than a slight pull. What's my next step? What else could cause this?
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1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
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So due to a puncture I got earlier this week, I had to buy a new front passenger side right tire. Now the car pulls very slightly to the right. Is this due to having about 6k miles on the left tire and a brand new right tire or do I need an alignment again?
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I have a 97 ford explorer sport with new tierods ball jonts control arms sway bar end links and bushings n I am having an issue with the steering its been in for alignment too n it pulls side to side....
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