Camry :: 2004 V6 Not Starting When Hot / No Click Noise
Oct 1, 2014
2004 Camry V6 3.0L with 136k miles.
History: The original starter was replaced with an OEM Toyota starter about at 60k miles.
Current Situation: When I try to restart the engine (after just a few minutes after turning the engine off) it won't start and I get no starter solenoid click noise at all. (The battery is strong and fresh.) Multiple tries of turning the ignition switch results in no solenoid click noise and no starter engaging the flywheel or engine cranking. However, after the car sits for 15-30 minutes it can be started right up without any hint there was ever a problem.
When I touch my fingertips to the Starter Relay in the engine bay fuse box and have someone try to start the engine (when it does nothing - e.g. no start) I can feel and faintly hear the relay's contacts making/breaking (closing/opening), so I think it's safe to say the relay is good.
I think I recall that the original starter/solenoid just stopped working all-together and didn't do this intermittent act.
Starter/solenoid not work at all (not even a click noise) when the engine is hot, but it does eventually work perfectly after it cools off a bit? I've never had one act like that before, that I recall. I can only guess that maybe the starter's solenoid is failing and needs to be replaced. Yes? No?
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2007 camry CE remote start not starting motor. push button, cars sounds doors click but motor does not start.
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Just started happening today. 2004 Camry LE 4-cyl. About 180k on the clock. Not sure if started has ever been replaced.
RIght after I release the ignition from the "start" position, I hear a load grinding noise, sounds a lot like the noise a Zip Tie makes when being pulled. After a second or so, the noise ceases and the car runs normally.
I suspect the starter may not be disengaging quickly enough. If starter, do I need to replace it, or is there some component that can be replaced?
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I have an 04 Camry with a one year old battery. Twice now, about 6 weeks apart, when I tried to start it in the morning, it clicks once and that is all. I popped the hood, jiggled each battery cable (they're not loose, but I still jiggled the post area) and then it starts. The presets on the radio are gone, as if the battery were dead. Also...a couple of days before it happens, the idle is very rough, almost as if it's going to stall. But after an "episode" the idle is back to about 750 rpm and very smooth.
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2011 SE V6 w/25k miles
Lately I've noticed that when I first back my car out of the garage if I push on the brakes it makes a tap/clack noise from the front end. It sounds like it's possibly on the passenger side but it's hard to tell.
It will also make a similar noise if I'm braking relatively hard, just before I come to a stop.
It almost sounds like the pads are moving very freely on the guides and possibly moving or shifting. The brakes work fine and no other noises or issues with the car.
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Our 2004 GX has been a great car, but is suddenly doing a number of strange things - like not start. When I say it won't start, I mean you can turn the key, the dash lights up, the steering wheel adjusts, radio goes on, etc, but then NOTHING! No solenoid "click", no starter noise, NOTHING! Does not crank at all. The car just turned 60,000 miles, is in great shape, lives in the garage and has never been in an accident.
After the first couple of times it did this, had the battery replaced, as it was getting close. and then the car started again. Until the next day. No rhyme or reason as to when it would do this. It might start 10 times in a row, then NOT start for a while, then magically fire up instantly, even after several key turns. I wiggled the key, tried a different key, shifted to Neutral, wiggled the shifter to try to rule out security interlock, bad ignition switch and shift interlock. No dice.
Did some more research and thought it might be the starter relay - banged on it and it started, so replaced that part. Didn't solve the problem. It also began to randomly die while idling (in park, or in drive). Sometimes it would re-start, sometimes not. The times it has done this, it typically dies after running or 15-20 minutes, but NOT ALWAYS.... Sometimes it will die once, then be good for the rest of the day. Sometimes it re-starts immediately, after a few minutes, or more recently only after sitting for a few hours.. So basically we can't use the car.
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My RX350 is a 2007. Recently replaced the two front struts and noticed the passenger side is exhibiting this peculiar clunking/clicking/popping sound when turning. It mostly happens when turning in motion but once in a while when parked. Clunk/click sound usually only occurs once, or in a short series of 2-3 times, during turning.
Video of this clunk/click while parked : [URL] ....
Noise is almost silent at the strut mount/bearing, so I suspect it's lower in the assembly. Can feel the clunk/pop vibration with hand placed on the lower spring seat.
Took the tire off and thoroughly inspected things. No tears/leaks in any joint sleeves/bushings. Tie rods and CV joint look fine, as do strut mount, bearing, upper spring seat, insulator, rubber bumper, sleeve, and spring. None of these were replaced during the strut replacement as everything looked great and with only 55k miles.
I've not been able to reproduce the issue with the engine off, nor when the tire is off the ground when jacked/lifted.
During Google searches, it was suggested the culprit is likely either the strut mount/bearing or CV joint. We removed the strut today and everything looks the same as during the install. We can't reproduce the sound with just moving the knuckle around with the strut removed. Strut mount/bearings look in excellent condition.
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I have a 2003 Camry with the 2AZ-FE in it. It has just under 300000 kms on it and is really starting to make lifter noise. Now i know these engines do make ticking noise but I can tell that it is getting progressively worse. I phoned local toyota shop and they want 900 in labor to adjust valves no parts. I know this engine has no adjustment other than swapping lifters to a different size. I am just curious to see if this is worth it on a car with so many miles. Would I be better to drive till it dies then buy another motor or head? Also kinda worried about stripping head bolts in the block if i do change the head. How common is this?
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I have a 2002 firebird that I had the battery replaced on yesterday also had positive terminal and wires changed because of corosion. Ran fine when I left shop. When I went to go out last night car would not start Only clicks when try to start. Dome light works, headlight works, and dash lights work.
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OK so I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 with 125,000 miles. Recently about a month or so ago I began having a starting issue. Basically what happens is that when I go to start the car, all I get is one click. The engine does not crank at all. Now this will only happen once or twice in a row and then when I try to start it again the car will start fine and it does not have any issues at all.
This will sometimes happen 4-5 times in one day and then it works perfect for a week or two before it starts acting up again. Two weeks ago when I had this issue, I took it to have the battery, alternator and starter tested. Supposedly they all were good except the battery had a lot of corrosion around it. I cleaned the corrosion off and it started fine for 2 weeks straight before it started acting up again yesterday and today. I am worried that it will get to a point where it wont start at all. The battery was last replaced in December 2011.
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I was told by the dealership that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced ( which I did) I went out to my car this morning and had the same problem. When I turn the key nothing happens. When I turn the key you hear a click but that is it.
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I posted a couple of weeks ago about my car making a single click instead of starting while turning the key. The dealer finally got the car in the other day and initially called to tell me that the positive cable was loose on the battery. Then called back a while later to say after trying the start the car after it was sitting for a while it again made the single click and didn't start. I never bought the battery cable story since I knew it couldn't be that loose, I checked. But instead they found the starter itself was the issue. I was thinking it may be a loose cable on the starter itself and was surprised to see the starter had burned out already. A new starter was ordered and will be installed on Tuesday. I am not sure who makes the starters for these cars but a 2012 starter should last years. In comparison, my 96 honda civic is still sporting the original starter after 17 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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After my car has sit for a couple of days, it doesn't like to start. By, " doesn't like to start", I mean it doesn't even click when the key is turned. I put a new battery in it but that didn't work. If I get it to start it seems to always start after coming out of a store (knock on wood). This only seems to be a problem after it has sit for a while.
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My 2006 Hyundai Elantra will not start. I went out yesterday to start it to leave for an appointment and I heard the battery try to engage and then only click, click, click. Is it the battery? I've thus far had no issues or problems with this car. I'm going to try and get it jump-started this morning to bring it to the mechanic. Could it be the starter?
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2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 4.7 L. Clock from right side of engine immediately after starting engine. Seems to be in rhythm with engine and increases in frequency as I rev. Gradually subsides over first 5 minutes and not audible after that. Recent small leak of transmission fluid, but I'm thinking that has nothing to do with this.
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I work for the transportation department at a school and we have a bunch of 6.0 f350/450 busses and this bus I am working on has a no crank condition. Bus in question is a 2006 F450 6.0.
Currently if you turn the key to start the engine the solenoid just clicks but the engine wont crank. The person working on it before me assumed that the batteries and or starter were bad so they were replaced(0 miles on them right now) but the problem still persists.
First thing I did when I started working on this bus was jumping the starter relay and the starter engages and starts the engine perfectly. That being said I know the starter wiring is fine.
Secondly I looked through the wiring diagrams and saw that the PCM grounds the 85 terminal on the starter relay so I tried grounding the 85 and I was able to crank the engine with the key so that was telling me that the actual starter relay is fine. Next I went and swapped the PCM with another 2006 f450 thinking maybe the grounding switch in the PCM was bad and I have the same no crank condition. The PCM from the bus in question was swapped to the doner bus and it cranked perfectly(PCM in question is fine).
Next thing I did was look up all of the ground locations for the PCM or anything to do with the starter and they were all cleaned and still have the same no crank.
Looking around on the internet I see that the viscous fan can cause a problem if it shorts out so I unplugged that and no change in the no crank. I also saw that the trans range sensor could cause a no crank condition but I am getting back up lights/beeper and the bus "wants" to crank so I am thinking that the TRS is not the problem.
Lastly I tried hooking my Modis scanner up to this bus and was NOT able to communicate with either of the PCM's I tried. Not sure if this is related to my no crank condition. I checked all of the wiring that I could but could not find any chafing or breaks in any of the OBDII wiring. My planned next step is to replace the TRS...
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2008 SE V6 Convertible : I have noticed that the road noise has gotten significantly worse. I don't think it's the tires as they have been well inflated and still have about 80% tread left. The noise gets very noticeable starting at 30 mph and gets louder with speed, (by the time I reach 70MPH / 2.5K RPM its already VERY LOUD) and you can even feel the "grinding" vibration in the accelerator pedal and steering wheel. It seems to from the front. A kind of cycling hum (not constant; but broken like the tip of a helicopter blades). The noise does not change in turns; and it's not a loud clunking noise.
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Two things I have just noticed on my '09 with aprox. 120,000 miles.
Starting at about 45 mph, I am getting a humming noise
Doesn't get louder as speed goes up either, stays the same 45-75 mph
Have Bridgestone Ecopia EP422 tires, did rotation, noise did not change location
Noise does go away gradually when slowing down to a stop (after I have reached 45)
I am deaf on my left side, this is hard to tell where it is coming from
Second is this really odd brake pedal clink / pop noise. When brake pedal is depressed fully to the floor, car ON or OFF, there is a clunk
See attached links to the noise.....
Brake pads / rotors are like new, plenty of life on them. I did have the inverter pump replaced per the recall (I read somewhere this could be related?)
Car OFF -
Car ON -
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I have a 1999 F150 Lariat 5.4 that's been sitting for a few weeks waiting for a new MAF. Finally got a MAF from a junkyard (out of an 01 Expedition) and installed it.
Turned the key, cranks once, then I hear a loud click and then just continuous clicking. I did some research and people are saying this is just the starter solenoid and that the battery may be dead. I charged the battery a couple hours and waited until it showed 11.some volts, tried to start it again, didn't even turn over, just clicking. I also noticed the theft light blinking rapidly, but if it were the PATS acting up, wouldn't the motor at least turnover?
So I went back to charging the battery. Went out a couple hours later (at night), and when I opened the door, none of the lights came on. Then I hear a click, the lights come on, followed by another click, and the lights went off. This happens each time I open and close the door. So did I potentially pop a fuse? Or is my battery just fried? Would replacing the MAF with the newer one out of the expedition cause any weird issue? I doubt it, but anything is possible at this point I guess.
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