Camry :: 2004 - Transmission Case Had A Small Hole, Caused Leakage
Jun 8, 2014
Last spring my 2004 Camry, 3.3L with only about 115,000 KM (71,500 miles) started losing Transmission Oil. The lost of oil was very minor but I still had to keep an eye on it.
Last summer, I took the vehicle to a Toyota Dealership and they found the problem. It seems that corrosion created a small hole it the transmission case. just behind the driver's side wheel. The Service Tech was very nice and shared that in all of his years working at Toyota, (about 20 years) he had never witness this and none of the other mechanics had seen this as well. He indicated that my choices were simple, change the transmission or try and repair the hole with J-B Weld type of cold weld product (not sure if they used the J-B Weld product). I of course decided to use the cold weld product as per the mechanic's recommendation.
Well, last fall, the leak started again and it leak all through this past winter. The vehicle now has about 130,000 KM (90,000 miles). Besides this problem, the vehicle is in good shape and still runs very well. The funny thing is that the vehicle had a corrosion product sprayed on the vehicle soon after it was purchased.
Link to photos : [URL]............
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After driving, i smelled something horrible burning. When I get home, I get on my creeper and roll under to look for anything suspicious, and I find this. It is not where the drain plug in the pan is, it's in front of that. I checked the temp when I was driving but it never got high. I really need my transmission to not explode on me right now, I have a lot of driving to do.
Here's a gallery where there are some pictures....
Photo Album - Imgur....
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My check engine light came on and I had it checked at Advanced Auto and it said it had to do with my air intake so I checked if it was leaking and the hose closest to the engine has a big rip in it so I taped it for now.
2003 Hyundai Tiburon
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We have water leak issues for close to a year now, very frustrating. Not heard much of B7s leaking so I thought I'd stop in here and check it out. Great car to drive, only other issue we've had was the cold weather inactive drivers door lock as seen by many others.
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1999 Toyota Camry 2.2L V4 automatic 112,000 miles
Last week I checked my transmission fluid and it was very low. I added fluid and checked it the next day and it was low again. I noticed trans fluid on the front of the pan so i went out and bought a new trans filter and a new trans pan gasket and replaced them, sealed and bolted the trans pan back properly, and added the fluid. I thought that this would fix the leak but I see that the pan is still leaking from the front of it.
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I am planning to buy a 2010 Camry se. everything looks good but there is oil drip in the transmission to rear of engine area.
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I found that my transmission was low on oil but couldn't find a leak. What I did find is that the seal in the transfer case was letting trans fluid transfer into it and then it would leak out the out put seal. I purchased the new seal and gasket and repaired it myself in about 3 hours. I removed the rear drive shaft and removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case alone or you can take it out completely if you want.
Drained transfer case unplugged wiring and one vacuum line. Unbloted from trans and removed using trans jack. The bolts are not the easiest to get to. i used a 3/8 ratchet to break them loose then used a stubby 3/8 to get them out because they are around 2 inches long. Once down I had to jack up the truck to get it out from under it. I removed the old seal and installed new one cleaned everything up and installed with a new gasket.
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So my wife nailed a small spike buck and he when up under the truck. On his way back, his antlers hit the intercooler. One side tube was collapsed and the other collapsed but tore open. Has to repair one the tubes and, if so, with what. I was thinking I could pull the dent out with a pick and then put some sort of epoxy over it.
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Noticed this during an inspection of the wife's '07. Oily bolt on end of transmission case in the driver side wheel well. Definitely a slow seep.... Will have the dealer take a look...
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I have a 2011 Prius 2, with 35K miles, and have noticed a clicking sound in the steering when hitting a small bump or hole in the road. If the car is parked, I can rock the steering wheel back and forth, and hear a clicking sound. I do not remember the noise being there until recently.
Also the radio reception seems to have gotten weaker. If I am on a trip out of town, it now seems that I am looking for stronger stations frequently, as static interferes. I had the car to the dealer for this a few months ago, and they said they could not duplicate the problem
This car is about ready to drop off the warranty, and would like to have Toyota pay for the repair if it is needed.
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Recently my 2013 Hyundai Elantra was subject to a hit and run. It is a new car with less than 2000 miles on it since October 2013. There was 9K in damage, most of which pertained to the back driver's side and the axle. Bumper, quarter panel, trunk floor, axle, wheel bearings, and two rims had to be replaced. Plus incidentals like tail lights and such. Because this is a new car, I received all new parts as a replacement. When the car was returned to me, the back seat kept getting wet in the rain.
After taking back to the shop twice, they finally diagnosed a small hole in the seal in a seam of the quarter panel area---something must have happened when putting everything back together. The door is fine and there is no moon / sun roof on the vehicle. I do not completely understand what this means. I know some basics about cars, but not to this level of detail. I searched by topic area and couldn't find anything that was related to this type of reason for water in the car.
Have the following questions: How a small hole in a quarter panel area would cause water to get into the back seat (on seat and floor)? What would be good things to watch out for post-fix? It is still a bit damp and rainy here, so I can't open the windows for things to dry out. Would have been nice for the collision center to dry the seats. How can I make sure mold/mildew won't develop?
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Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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I purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
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So I jacked up my car on stands to put in my dogbone mount insert yesterday, and my friend noticed this hole on the bottom of my transmission:
He said if you look inside you can see gears and (his words) "They look pretty dry". Is this just an inspection hole? I imagine if there was some kind of catastrophic fluid loss my transmission would shift weirdly/not at all. But so far it seems pretty normal. Its a MT btw.
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I have a 2004 Camry LE with 214,000 miles on the clock, and this car has had needed maintenance pertaining to the braking system ever since I bought it in January. Let me give you some background on past issues/maintenance before I dive into my current issue.
During the test drive, the brake pedal felt extremely soft/spongy, having to travel a lot farther than any other car I've driven (even my father's full size pickup had stronger brakes). My dad dismissed it just being the way the car was. In hindsight I would've walked away or slept on it, but let's just say I was pressured into buying the car right away.
We took it to my trusted local mechanic a few days later for an overall inspection, and he said the front brakes/rotors needed to be replaced. He said the rear brakes were thin, but could be replaced later down the line. So we replaced the front ones, expecting it to have some improvement. In reality, the brake pedal force was still the same as before.
A few months later, after hearing faint squeaking coming from the rear brakes, the brake light started to illuminate intermittently. That's when we decided to replace the rear brakes/rotors. After we replaced the rear brakes, braking motion was dramatically improved, and I did not have to push the pedal very far to achieve adequate braking power. It was great,while it lasted.
It gradually started to go back to the way it was, which is really disappointing. After growing tired of the problems, I decided to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and it was practically at the minimum line! Figuring it was a brake line or master cylinder leak, we took it again to my mechanic to have him inspect the braking system. Much to everyone's surprise (including my mechanic), there were no leaks to be found and he told me to come back if it gets worse or the brake light comes on. HOWEVER, when I drove it home from the mechanic, the brakes felt the way they did when he put the rear rotors on. On the service record, it said he just looked for leaks and readjusted the rear rotors. This was about a month ago, or at 209,000 miles.
However, as before, the brakes slowly started to loose their "bite" again and sure enough, the master cylinder had lost fluid; albeit not as significant as before, but enough to require topping off. In addition, whenever I'm decelerating on the freeway (from let's say, 75-60 MPH), the wheel shakes as well. This wasn't really present before.
My patience is running thin with this car; we've easily spent half the value of the car on maintenance.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe V6. The transmission fluid filler cap is too close to a housing unit that a wrench or a socket won't fit around it but I also noticed another plastic cap that is connected to it and was wondering it that was for (is this where you fill in the oil? seems too small). I've attached a picture and would love to hear what you think. The filler cap is at the bottom and the plastic cap is on the top.
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I've looked at [URL] at the three primary hitch receivers for the 2013 RX 350; Curt, Hidden, Draw-tite.
From the side profile picture which etrailer displays for each, the Curt has one hole and the other two have two. Those two appear to be different sizes. The one on the Curt seems to appear smaller than the larger of the other two holes on the other two hitch receivers.
I called etrailer and the person I spoke with could not tell me why they were different, they just read the specs I see on the page, tongue weight, load, blah, blah.
With my hitch, I will need to haul a Yakima trailer, about 450 Ibs total, it is a very lightweight trailer, or a 2" Yakima bike rack. Maybe some day, I'll need to haul something of substance, but I have no plans.
I'm also wondering if a hitch which is recessed back, will it be difficult to work the pin in and out?
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About 9 months ago heard a strange noise when shifted into 4 wd , sounded like driving over those grooves on the side of the highway to keep people awake.
Had to pull over to stop , as it would not go back into 2wd with the noise still going.
Then it stopped , after shutting truck off and restarting.
Then earlier this year after trying to do it again in 4wd had bad clunking noise and was hard to get back in 2wd , I can here the shift motor engaging and the dash reads in 4wd, seems its not engaging fully in 4wd and not going back to 2wd, its a very bad clunking noise, shakes the whole truck.
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I have a BW 1345 transfer case. Does it have the shift in the fly capability? And, if so, what precautions should be taken if shifting on the fly?
Second, where can I get a "plate" or label that shows the shift pattern? I know the shift pattern, I just want to post it in my vehicle in case anyone else ever drives it and needs to use the 4 wheel drive.
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2000 honda accord automatic, 4 cylinder. As I unscrew the drain plug of the transmission, i stripped about 2/3 of the hole threads. the bolt threads are OK. what are my choices to fix it? i do not believe there is room to "tap and die" (?). I visited locan NAPA and they suggested me using 2 liquid epoxy. what i am thinking to do first is to use the liquid gasket surrounding my bolt, bolt them in using the remaining 1/3 of the hole thread. Let is sit and cured. it will work?
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I have a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac v-6. This truck has been the bane of my existence since I bought it back in September, but I finally fixed all of the issues I was having and it's been great. But, today I discovered that during the most recent work, the transmission cooler line ( Ford part # 7L2Z7890A) was left unsecured against the tensioner pulley. Needless to say, today a hole appeared that gushed tranny fluid everywhere.
I have two questions please- First, need to find the hose diameter so I can do a quick fix insert long enough to drive 1 hr. home? Second, I read online that there is a fluid fill point on the passenger side of the transmission case, is this correct and do I need to be aware of anything else to add enough fluid to safely drive the 80 miles home?
I haven't lost enough fluid that my driving is becoming sluggish and hesitant, but I can tell it is very low.
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