Camry :: 2004 - Ticking Sound After A Coolant Flush
Feb 13, 2012
Here is the thing, this did not start until after I got a coolant flush, and went to get some gas. I was thinking dirty fuel injectors, so I put the Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in with the next full tank of gas, and it didn't do anything.
There is a ticking sound, and the car sounds like a freight train chugging. The car still runs and still has great performance than ever before (due to the new plugs)
Here is what I have done:
Ran motor flush
Changed oil + Lucas Oil Additive
Changed all 4 Spark Plugs (replaced crappy Autolite with NGK Platinum)
Changed Power Steering Fluid (flushed)
Changed Coolant (flushed)
Cleaned the throttle body and intake
Drained through and filled up gas again + Lucas Fuel Stuff
You can't really hear it from inside the car, and it only seems to be happening after the car has been warmed up. It does not happen during a cold start at all (in the mornings).
The ticking sound stopped for a bit when I ran the motor flush, and changed the oil. Now the sound is still there, but it is A LOT less annoying than before. The car also has A LOT better performance with the new plugs, I seem to be able to take off a lot better at lights.
Here is what I still need to do:
Change the engine air filter.
Double check the throttle body and intake.
It is a 2004 Camry with 182,000 Miles. The ticking didn't start until after it came back from the shop, which has me suspicious. Shop claims nothing is wrong, which is a load of BS.
What I am thinking:
Stuck valve
Lifters
STILL dirty intake (shop could have done nothing and charged me for it)
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2004 VW Passat, 1.8L Turbo. So my coolant needs to be flushed since it doesn't look good and I for the life of me cannot find the t-stat housing or the water pump. I wonder if they changed everything in the 2004.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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I did a coolant flush following the instructions posted on this site. In fact I did a little more than just a flush - replaced degas bottle cap, replaced thermostat and installed a coolant filtration system.
There were no leaks before I started and the only reason I did the flush was that there was green antifreeze in it.
I noticed that there was half a gallon of coolant under it in the parking lot this afternoon - the degas bottle still has coolant in it, so I drove it home and inspected the thermostat housing and top radiator hose, as well as all fittings and hoses installed as part of the coolant filter. Everything was dry.
I tracked the leak to the lower radiator hose - the one thing I did not touch as I drained from the petcock. Coolant is running down the lower radiator hose.
Could the new radiator cap have increased the pressure in the system to a point where it identified a weak point that was not leaking before?
My temps are great, ECT is stable about 188F - 190F and EOT is stable around 192F - 194F. I ran it hard and got temps up to around 200F and they both came back down to 192F range very quickly when I backed off. They were actually running about 5F higher before the flush.
I will try running the old cap to see if there is a difference, but if the lower hose is the weak point I'd prefer to replace that and run the new OEM cap.
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My 02 Explorer with the 4.6 has about 100k on her and I think it is time to change the coolant. ( I have only had it since 87k )
Should I flush it or just change it. What is the best way ?
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After changing the timing belt and water pump I want to change the coolant. Stupid to have no temp gauge so I got a scan tool connected. Been idling 20 minutes and it hasn't gone above 189 degrees. Assume it has a 195 degree thermostat. I put fresh water in the radiator but still don't see it mixing with coolant in the block as if the thermostat has opened.
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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I just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
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I recently purchased a 2008 Camry 4cyl with 50k miles on it, the car runs great however on colder mornings (near or below freezing) there seems to be a ticking sound coming from the engine bay. The noise matches engine rpm, it will disappear once the car has reached operating temps.
Ive poked around the forum a bit for "camry ticking or clicking when cold" and have found a few threads saying their toyota dealership told them it was normal and that even new camrys do the same noise when cold.
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I'm planning on doing the regular scheduled coolant flush but not sure if it can be done without any special equipment.
One dealer said they don't do many diesels but have a machine to do the refill and quoted ~200$. The other does more diesels but hasn't done a flush in a while and quoted ~500$ and said he does it old school by draining everything out and then water flush followed by refilling the systems.
Which one is right? Can it be done in the driveway? Which is the correct coolant for the refill and are any additives required after filling?
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When the engine of my 2007 Camry LE V6 is cold, it makes a ticking/knocking sound. The engine has 100,000 kms on it (60k miles). The frequency of the sound varies with the speed of the engine, not with the speed of the car.
When engine is cold: The sound happens roughly twice a second when the engine idles (at 700-800 rpm).
When engine is warm: The noise is less audible. It can be heard when idled at a stop, but you have to listen for it. The noise cannot be heard on the highway.
The car doesn't burn oil, and the oil level is ok. I had the oil changed 3000 kms ago, and it is still very clean (clear). The was the same before and after the oil change.
I am wondering if it could be the lifters, bad plug, or maybe a timing issue.
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So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
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2004 Jetta GLI 2.8 ... Tonight I started getting a coolant leak somewhere on passenger side. There is also a loud noticeable ticking coming from that area but it is NOT the engine. Slow steady tick, just to the left of engine (when looking head on). Car also began to overheat. Coolant reservoir is full, too flow to be honest, but I don't see any leaks from there. No check engine light is on. Car does NOT leak coolant when off. Only when running and putting load on engine. At idle I cannot see any leakage. Thoughts? I'm thinking perhaps water pump? 87k on the car. Original pump from what I can tell. Bought the car a week ago.
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I have the classic ticking sound on acceleration. I had a muffler shop check it out and the tech said he thinks the passenger side exhaust manifold has a leak. I have already replaced the whole manifold and cat on the drivers side. Could it be just the gasket? The ticking is coming from the top near the engine and not the cat. Is it a pain to replace the gasket?
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I have Toyota camry 2003 v6 and power steering needs to be flushed. How to flush the power steering.
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Bought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
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I am 98% sure my 17" chrome clad wheels are making a clicking or ticking sound as I drive. I took off the plastic center cap and the noise changed.. it's less than constant now.
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I have a 04 f150 fx4 with the 5.4 v8. My truck has a tick to it. It does it all the time, hot, cold, at idle, and while driving. I thought it was a cam phaser but I've been hearing people say bad cam phasers make the engine sound like a diesel engine. My does not sound like a diesel it just makes a ticking sound, my dad says it sounds like a 350 with a rod knocking, however now that it doesn't sound like a diesel I am wondering if it could be the vct.
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I have a 2002 camry and I flushed my power steering fluid today using the following procedure:
- emptied the reservoir
- connected return hose to a bucket
- added new fluid (ATF dexron III - from toyota dealer)
- jacked front wheels
- turned steering wheel side to side till new fluid came out of return line (my reservoir did get empty couple times in the process so air may have went in)
- lowered the vehicle
- reconnected the return line to reservoir
- ran the engine and turned side to side couple times (did not see bubbling and fluid level did not drop)
I took the car for test drive and noticed that my steering wheel was still making noise when turning. Also, when i was turning the wheel side to side with hood open, I noticed a change in the sound. There was a sticking sensation and steam pressure release noise when I locked the wheel on either side.What could be the problem?
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[URL] .....
What is that little motor shown in the still image (in focus at 22 seconds in the video) and why is it ticking? I noticed for the first time ever that it coincidentally wasn't ticking when I first tried shooting this video. After idling for a few minutes, it came on and started ticking away. Its much more noticeable when the engine idle is lower than in the video, and its more noticeable in person. The noise I am referring to is more pronounced later in the video at around 44 seconds when I go completely out of focus because I am putting the mic right next to it.
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Started my truck (2007 EB 4x4, 5.4) this morning with my daughter in her car seat behind me, we get about 1/4 mile down the street and all of a sudden I notice myself moving!
My daughter starts freaking out, I pull over and my seat is still moving. I end up COMPLETELY reclined, all the way down and all the way back. The seat pinned my daughter in her seat, she's flipping out...I had to unbuckle her car seat while she's screaming because her legs are pinned and have to slide her car seat out sideways with her in it.
Seat does NOT move at all.
Now, before all of this I had heard a "ticking" sound coming from inside my seat, been doing it for months but since everything worked and not dummy lights came on I just ignored it. Apparently, this was not a good idea because now it is not ticking and the seat is not working....
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