Camry :: 2004 SE V4 With Auto Transmission - Stuck In Park
Aug 17, 2015
My wife have a 2004 Camry SE V4 with auto transmission. She went to TJ Max yesterday and the car is stuck in park, we had to tow the car home. Pushing the Park override button does release it and allow me to shift and drive.
The car starts, head lights, cabin lights, radio and power lock works, BUT power window and AC/climate control does not work at all, dead, no power.
My brake lights work with the exception that one bulb is dead, has been dead for a long time without causing any issues. I pulled out ALL the fuses in cabin and engine, all the fuses are in good shape. I tried looking for a Brake fuse but there is none, tripled check the big fuses but none are blown. I also tried looking for the brake solenoid by the brake pedal but, I didn't know which one it was or where it is located.
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My friend's older Honda Civic (automatic transmission)- year is 1995 - has been getting stuck in PARK off and on the past 10 days - she was shown how to "override it" by AAA by putting the car key in some slot near where the gear shifting handle is. She can shift it out of PARK and into 4th gear and then can start the car. but now sometimes she cannot get even get the car to start. It has happened about 8 times in the past 10 days. It first happened about 6 months ago -- but now it's happening almost daily. It has been very rainy here lately (in the Bay Area of Northern CA) - can this be an electrical thing that is happening? Wish I could give more details -- my friend needs her car for work - so she is a bit worried that her car may be on it's way out or headed for major repairs. Her financial reserves are not great so she'll have to find a good "used" vehicle again too.
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My 2004 F250 super duty crew cab is stuck in park. Every once in a while it will move to drive, but once stopped and in put in park, its stuck. Its an Automatic transmission
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My wife's 2004 V6 Camry is not happy. As you accelerate from a stop, the automatic transmission will go from first gear to second, and then sometimes just drop spontaneously into neutral. Because you are in the process of accelerating, the engine RPMs increase until you take your foot of the pedal. In the short trip to the dealership for testing, the problem seemed to reset itself when the car was fully stopped. Other times it just reengaged with the transmission on its own without stopping.
Each time the transmission disengages, another strange thing happens--the instrument panel goes bonkers. The speedometer needle drops to zero, but the tach keeps working. The ABS, check engine, and brake lights turn on.
The dealership had the car for several days and has only been able to scan codes indicating the ABS system and the rear wheel speed sensors. I'm skeptical--especially since the repair estimate is nearly $4,000! I'm taking the car to an independent shop tomorrow for a second opinion.
I can follow up with more details from the dealership's diagnostic report, but for now, all I can say is that the car has almost 100,000 miles and we haven't had a bit of trouble with it until now. I replaced the transmission fluid about 10,000 miles ago.
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My 02 trans with 189k miles on it has lately started not going into park completely. Every once in a while it will feel like it is in park, but when i get out of the truck it starts to roll away, and the park pawl can be heard ratcheting. The shift tube screws are tight, as is the tube itself and the shift lever. Does this sound like the trans will have to come out?
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I have a 04 Saturn Ion with auto transmission. When I go to shut off the ign. sw. after driving the ign. key won't shut all the way off and you can not remove the key. The key operates just fine. I can start the car, turn the engine off but the key won't turn all the way off to release the key. I was wondering if it could have something to do with the neutral safety switch on the transmission. How I can access it and test it to see if that is the problem?
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My auto transmission in my 2007 Elantra with 125,000 miles went into default mode, stuck in 3rd gear. No codes went off. I drove it home this way, but after sitting for 90 minutes, now it works fine. I've heard about the input and output sensors. What should I replace? I went to HMA service to get info on both sensors, but it wasn't detailed enough.
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A bit of a long story, but brought my 2005 automatic honda civic into a mechanic for timing belt changeout (im at 112k miles) but expressed my concern over a noise persisting for approx. a week, sounding like it was stuck in a lower gear... but RPMs were fine. The mechanic looked at it all day and came to the vague conclusion that a bearing in the final gear of the transmission was busted. Brought it in for the diagnostics and had to take their mechanic on a test drive so he would hear what noise I was talking about. OK, days later = new transmission. Within 24 hours I hear a noise mimicking what I heard prior to work. They tell me its a wheel bearing that they couldn't properly diagnose without first replacing the transmission. Why not replace the wheel bearing before the transmission? How can they prove to me what was the real problem if I am still hearing noises?!
48 hours after getting the car back I wake up and start the car to warm her up before driving to work. She sits in park, running, for approx. 10 minutes and when I hop in, step on the brakes and try to pop it into drive from park, she is locked up and will not shift anywhere. In a panic I call honda and they tell me about a little 'trap door' i can pop off next to my shifter and manually flip it out of park. Fine. It works and I get to work, then have no problems getting my car into drive until the next morning when the exact same thing happens. (It is suggested it is a brake switch, but once it got into drive the brake lights worked fine.) So, this next morning I can not manually pop it into drive. It is currently at that Honda dealership, and has been there for 5 days, where, of course, they have not had ONE problem getting the car into drive.
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1997 Ford F150 4.2 liter V6 with Eod transmission. I have replaced the shift actuator, the brake switch, the ignition switch and tumbler, tightened all nuts and bolts on and around the steering column shifter, and had a mechanic replace the shift cable and go through the wiring from front to back. He couldn't figure out the problem.
I recently noticed while coming to a stop on a gravel road I touched the brakes and the front brakes locked up. I have anti-lock on this truck so is this normal and could this maybe be the problem with no brake lights and not coming out of park? Just for giggles I also had to come to a sudden stop in town on pavement a couple times and the tires locked up so hard I could smell rubber burning where the tires slid.
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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Just purchased a used 2003 camry 2.0G A/T. The driver's side window slides down well when using the auto button, but gets stuck 1/4 way on the way up. Have to wait a while before holding the button to slide it up all the way. What might be wrong and how I can correct?
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I have 2000 F-250 7.3L when I start it up and push the brake it won't come out of park and when I push the brake the volt meter goes to 8 volts. If I shut it off and try again it is ok. Might take a couple of times of doing this then it's ok for a couple of days then it happens again. I've checked the connection on brake switch and everything looks ok. What to check next?
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I have a 2002 Camry with (440K Kms) and automatic transmission. I am the second owner and had this car since 130K Kms so I have been driving it for a while. The car was in great condition but recently, the transmission started to give some trouble where it's gear changes were not smooth. Also, when I would come to a complete stop, trany would go into neutral even though I have not touched the gear shifter and it is still in drive.
I had my mechanic drain and fill transmission fluid since it was a bit dirty. A few days later, the car would park with gear box in "P" but no matter which gear I would put the gear shifter into, it would remain in neutral and won't pick up into any gear at all. So, I parked the car on the driveway. Couple of days later I wanted to try to see what the issue was and now, no matter what gear I put the gear shifter into, it stays into park.
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Just curious. is it possible to convert my auto camry to manual transmission? also, how much would it be? where can i go?
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2009 Camry SE 2.4L. I have been noting an unfamiliar vibration of sorts in my gas pedal for some time, but did not notice smells, overheats, noises, fluid loss, DTCs or anything. Today on my way to work I started to notice hard shifting. The RPMs would rev up, fall down and shift hard. At time the RPMs would climb to 5k before dropping back down then shifting. Got worse, then finally when I was trying to U turn across the road (was stopped in gear) I lost all gears. I could shift to any gear, engine RPMS would remain stable, but no movement. Pressing on the gas just hiked the revs.
I pushed it off the road, and killed the engine and could get it to engage for short periods then no gears again. Seems like if I let it sit for a bit it will work for a short while, then no gears again. Had it towed home. Trans fluid indicates full, no burnt coloring or smell to it. No indications of leaks. After the tow I was able to drive it up into my driveway.
For clarity, I can move the selector to any gear and that feels normal. The engine does not bog down. I simply am not engaging any gear. Thinking sensor? Maybe heat related?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, has 99,000 miles 3.5L. After changing the alternator (alternator did die and drained my battery, the shop recharged the battery) now it seems be stuck in 3rd gear and does not wont to shift (it is a automatic). Fluids are good, transmission was flushed between 50-60,000 miles.
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This is happening intermediately, maybe 1 out of every 5 starts.
Using the override I can shift just fine and the lights go away within 2-3 minutes. However, there's obviously something misaligned here. Search revealed potential brake switch issue (my tails and brake lights are fine so no issues there), lockout issue, or a park neutral switch.
So I took the panel apart and I am trying to isolate these potential issues, image attached, what I need to do next? I am more of a visual person so if someone can circle the part I need to disassemble or replace that would be most useful.
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For the last couple of months, I am not able to push the button on the gear selector to change out of park. Twice I have had to give up and drive the wife's car. When I come back it works once and then it starts again.
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I have a 97 camry that oil leaked out in like 1/2 block engine is locked and also now the trans wont go into park it like its in neutral the linkage is all connected was told Camrys have an oil pressure interlock that will stop the engine when oil pressure get too low. i think a oil pump seal went in engine, where should I start to get it running..
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