My sister's 2004 Camry V6 will randomly start shaking violently from the rear. If you stop and get out, the rear passenger wheel is very hot. 4 months ago this was happening h but only on the highway. The mechanic rebuilt the parking brake and it has been fine. Now this is happening even at lower speeds (40mph). I'm afraid it may have a stuck caliper but I don't think that would make it shake.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Camry LE with 297,756 miles and my from right wheel shakes when I drive 60+ mph. I took it to my mechanic and he told me to get a high speed wheel balance. So I took it to the tire shop only to be told I need to replace my tires. All four was replaced but the shaking continued. I took it back to the mechanic and he then told me the lower control arm bushing need to be replace. I replaced the left and right lower control arm and the shaking is still there. What could be causing the shaking on my right front end?
View 10 RepliesOk I have a 2004 F150 Fx4 ext. cab. I had the truck for sale and due to something coming up I was unable to sell it. Kinda wish I did now. But anyways the truck was running great up until last week. I was drove it to work which I normally dont do. On my way home the rear end was making a weird noise. Kinda like a brake sticking. I tapped the brakes a few times and it seemed to work. Then a mile down the road it was doing it again without me trying to come to a stop and the back end was shaking. I pulled over and crawled under the truck to see if a u-joint was going bad. Everything seemed good. It never happened again until today.
This morning I hoped in the truck and went to my parents house. Its about a 5 mile drive and truck was acting fine. Came home and it was still fine. A few hours later I figured I would go up to the fire department I am on and find something to do up there. I got in the truck and didnt make it 5 feet from where I was parked and there was this bad noise followed by my whole truck shaking. It felt like the truck was going to fall in pieces in my driveway. I stopped looked around and didn't notice anything wrong. I figured I would just try to drive a little bit further and it was even worse. So I put it in reverse and it was normal. I put it in Drive again and thought my teeth were about to fall out of my mouth.
What could cause this? I know my transmission was leaking some oil from where the gear shifter comes out. I would check the trans fluid and add some if needed. I drove it up to the fire hall Monday night and did notice a slight burning smell but that was the only time I smelled it. Could it be the transmission?
So on my wives Prius which is an 2007 the rear tires are wearing more greatly on the insides that the outsides and they are wearing evenly on both the rear left and rear right inside. So not one is more worn than the other..
The tires are heavily worn, with that said the car rides extremely bumpy to the point the entire car is shaking on the freeway at 75 mph or higher. So much so it induces motion sickness which is odd for me. So also besides the alignment question, what else could be causing the insane amount of bumpiness? I balanced and rotated them yesterday but that didn't solve the issue.
Replaced rear brakes for a 2004 camry. Just decided to change out pads/rotors. Rotors were stuck on, had to use the little bolt holes to thread in bolts and push out the rotor. Time to change pads, pads came off fine but when I put on new pads and tried to put it on the rotor, the gap was too small. Seemed like a stuck caliper. Tried to remove the slide bolts, top slide bolt was fine, bottom slide bolt had a lot of resistance and would not come off the slide. Regreased it, re-assembled it and it had a lot of gap to slide over the rotor.
Reassembled everything, tried to spin the rotor by hand and it was fine. Put on wheel, lugged it down and it wouldn't spin at all. Drove it, seemed fine with no pulling but the one rotor was definitely running hotter (163 vs 113) than the other side after a 5 minute drive.What would cause it to spin freely without the wheel, but not spin when the wheel is lugged down?
I have an 04 SE with 3.3. It hit a curb hard last year. With all new parts on the front right corner, including a strut. The car would sway in all directions after the repair. I got it aligned and all was in spec except the rear strut was bent causing a 3 degree camber difference. I put new struts on all the way around.
I didn' change the front sway bar. Now the rear of car is swaying to the side when I hit a bump. Is that an alignment issue?
Seems like it bangs and bottoms out more so than it should with new struts. Used old springs, but all else on struts is new, insulators, mounts, strut. Used old boots.
I just upgraded from my old 92 camry with 350k to a 04 camry SE.
When I bought it it had a noise in the right rear suspension of the car. I just assumed this would be something minor so I bought it anyway. Shortly after I had the car I noticed there's a clunk in the steering and it turns out my intermediate steering shaft is shot. Turns out this is a common problem.
Its mostly one one side (passenger). Its more of a thumping sound then a rattle and happens on just about every bump or hole in the road. I've replaced the swaybar bushings, the links are fine. Just to be absolutely sure I disconnected the links and drove the car with no sway bar and it had no effect on the noise.
I've replaced the strut mount, and while I had it out I checked the shock. Shock is fine. No leaks, dead spots or any play in the shaft. I've taken everything out of the car, spare tire, jack everything in the truck to eliminate any of that stuff bouncing around. All the control arm bushings seem tight, but I haven't spent much time checking this, need to give the bushings another look.
Are these something that commonly goes? I've checked all the exhaust hangers, rocked the exhaust back and forth, doesnt seem to be hitting anything.
Every year about his time for the last six years my 04 rear suspension starts to clunk. Sounds like a spring trying to reseat itself. I will raise the rear end, slide under on my 40 year old car, shake out of the suspension components and won't discern a thing. Never have been able to reproduce that clunking. I suspect it is the spring seats. By April, the clunking will be gone so I think the ambient temp has something to do with the noise. The strut mounts seem to be tight to the body so is the wear in the spring isolator or other components?
View 11 RepliesGot an issue with the wife's Camry. I CAN NOT get the passenger door and both rear doors to lock automatically. I can manually flip the lock and they stayed locked, but that is the only way to lock them. They un-lock like normal.
Symptoms are as follows:
I do not hear any noise (in the three doors that will not lock) when I press ANY the lock buttons.
Drivers side door:
- with key in door it will unlock drivers door with one turn and all others with second turn. (normal)
- with key in door I can get the drivers door to lock, but the other three doors do NOT lock.
- with inside switch I can unlock all doors with unlock button.
- with inside switch I can lock drivers door but not the other three
Passenger side door:
- with key in door I can unlock all doors
- with key in door I can get ONLY divers door to lock.
- with inside switch I can unlock all doors with unlock button.
- with inside switch I can lock drivers door but not the other three
Key fob:
- with one press I can unlock the divers door and another press unlocks the rest of the doors.
- with the lock button I can get the drivers door to lock but the other three do NOT lock.
I have checked all fuses that I think are related. I don't have a repair manual so I don't know exactly what wires and plugs and fuses are all related to the lock/unlock system. I plan to get a manual soon.
Do the passenger and rear doors have different power to their locking solenoids separate from the drivers door? Could a broken wire in the drivers door (a common problem from what I've been reading on here) play a role in the other three doors not locking? Also I've read about the BCM being faulty in these cars (even though the problem described with that is the doors not unlocking and my problem is the exact opposite).
Think this is a Gen5 thing, but both of my 2004 Camry (XLE V6 and SE I4 specifically) has this issue. My XLE V6 is more obvious versus the SE I4, but seems to be following the same path. Guess even with car tint, our hot weather has worn this headliner edge. I have not suffered from the crumbling rear speaker cover though.
Thinking of getting some 3M adhesive spray and try see if I can apply it manually (maybe to a cotton pad or sponge then to headliner) to put some on the edges to keep it from getting worst.
[URL] ...
Pictures from my 2004 XLE V6.
I had to replace 2 tires on my Camry recently and Discount Tire put the new tires in the back and the old tires in the front. After all was done, I drove off and there was a knocking noise coming from the passenger rear.
The front steel wheel was pretty beat up so it was making the steering wheel shake. Discount put that wheel in the back. They had recommended replacing the wheel. I picked up a new one from a pick and pull and its still making the knocking sound.
I went through the car's interior to try and eliminate anything rattling around making the noise. Checked the trunk and there was nothing that I could think it would be.
It knocks at low speeds from 5 mph all the way up to 40 mph. But once I get to 50 and over on the highway the sound goes completely away. The car does not ride rough or shakes when the sound is present.
I just replaced all 4 struts on my 04 Camry. The car has 87,000 on it. I went with the Monroe OESpectrum struts and new strut mounts (Monroe). Springs looked fine, the rubber spring seats were fine as well and the bellows, so reused those items.
I now have a noise in the rear end that I did not have before. It sounds like it is coming from the lower part of the car and is not metal sounding. It is a very dull clunk when going over bumps in the road and is coming from both sides.
I replaced the sway bar bushings a couple years ago. I checked those and there is no play and appear to be fine. Also checked the sway bar links and they seem fine to me, but not sure what makes those bad. Torqued what I could. Used an electric impact wrench on the strut nuts and could not torque that because the rod spins.
I am taking it in on Monday for an alignment and to have the shop see if they can figure out the noise. Is it possible that the new parts could be binding and the alignment may take care of it? I have doubled checked my work and everything appears to be on correct.
Last weekend I got the first brake job done on my mom's 2012 Camry SE which has a bit over 43K. The car was shaking upon braking at 60+ mph.
To keep it short, the pads on the vehicle were not even half way used. I wanted to re-use the pads, but I had already purchased another set (ceramic). So got those installed and re-surfaced the rotor.
My question is, can I use the original pads when I get new rotors on the next brake job?
I just bought a 2014.5 Camry SE and the day I drive it off the lot I noticed it shaking at around 40mph. I made an appt. fort the following week and they said the found all 4 tires had flat spots so they replaced all with 4 new tires. Well, about a week later the shaking started again. Now it's worse than before, especially at higher speeds. I dropped it off today.
View 14 RepliesMy 2006 Tucson runs great 99% of the time. Every once in a while though, the rear of the suv shakes as if a tire is about to fall off. It lasts for a few minutes and then is gone until the next episode. I have had the tires and wheels checked and they are fine. The only other issue with the vehicle is a rattle from the rear when going over bumps....as if there is something loose by the spare tire (but there is not). I was told that the bushings needed to be replaced, but that would cause the rattle noise only, not the issue with the shaking. There is no problem with the front end or steering wheel shaking at all, it definitely is from the rear only.
View 10 RepliesYesterday I was driving home from a long road trip (1425 miles in 2 days) and I was listening to my stock radio/speakers. It was a bit chilly with the front windows down, but too warm with them up and I didn't want to turn on the a/c. (no specific reason. I just didn't want to). So I thought I would just open the back windows.
As soon as I did this, the radio bass was just shaking the whole car. It was nuts. I wasn't even listening to anything with a strong bass to it. I closed the windows, it went away. It was better when I turned off the super bass, but I found this odd. Especially since I see people put these large speaker boxes in the trunk.
Recently my Camry has been shaking when coming to a stop and shutting off. It feels similar to when a car runs out of gas. I replaced the battery less than a year ago. I don't know where to start.
View 3 RepliesMy 2009 Camry's gas pedal is really loose for some reason. I can feel the gas pedal shaking as I try to accelerate really fast sometimes. In addition, my engine is louder than most of other Camries out there. I heard that adjusting the throttle cable should work. However, I can seem to find the cables.
View 2 RepliesI have an 08 Camry v6 with 33K. Over the past 3-4 months I've noticed the wheel shaking at all speeds but got worse around 65-70mph. Went to the dealer a few weeks back and he put 2 new Michelin on the front, balanced all wheels and gave me a 4 whel alignment. The shaking at lower speeds is still there but not as bad, but around 60-70 MPH the wheels is all over the place in terms of shaking and controlling lanes. What it could be....
View 2 RepliesCar has a weird shaking or vibrating coming from the middle or the rear of the car, I can't really describe it. You can only notice it at low speeds, and it's only noticeable after you drive for a while, it doesn't happen immediately. It happens whether you press on the brake or not, just while driving. I'm not sure how I should handle the situation either. I changed my rotors and brake pads because I thought that might have been the problem, but it turned out it wasn't.
I took it to the dealer, they said it was the end links that were loose so they changed that. It didn't fix the problem. I took the car back, and they checked it out, they couldn't locate the problem. They put it on the lift, said it wasn't the sway bar, suspension, etc.
They said because I didn't change the "brake pad clips"(I'm not sure what to call them), and they appear to be the original ones that came with the car, I'm not really sure if they are or not, but I know the brake pads were changed once, but maybe that wasn't changed, I need to change them first, and since they looked for a problem and don't want to waste more of their time (basically what they told me, they will start charging me to find the problem now), they will charge me $159 labor + $20 for the part + tax to change it. Now it may or may not fix the problem, that may not be the problem at all, and if it doesn't fix it then I'm out almost $200 for no reason. They said they don't want to waste time, and it's ridiculous to look for a problem with my car. But the problem is it's a vibration or a shaking, and I would think that SHOULD be covered by the warranty.
Should I try taking this to a different dealer, and pretty much never go back there again? Get the part changed myself at a different mechanic shop, as I don't see a reason to spend $179 + tax at Hyundai.
I have a 1999 Forrester "S", automatic with ~100k miles. This started intermittently but now is consistent. At about 45 mph or higher the rear of the car will shake with increasing intensity. It feels similar to a bad strut that allows the axle to hop. I have checked the balance on all the wheels, bearings feel free, nothing seems to be loose in the suspension, have placed the car on jack stands and run at 60+ with no vibration. My best guess is the carrier bearing or rubber suspension on the drive shaft. It is hard to evaluate in the car.
View 3 Replies