2004 camry, oil pan gasket replacement required? Mine is leaking.
Was there anything difficult about it? Any special notes or tricks about replacing it? Seems like it would be a simple job.
I recently had my gasket replaced and 24 hours later, there were several oil leaks in my driveway and oil dripping from my 99 Toyota Corolla every time I parked. I brought it back to the shop this am since they were no open on Saturday. My question is they stated it might just be a loose filter and/or a bad filter.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Explorer with the 4.0 K motor. It has a vacuum leak and the check engine light will come on from time to time. My work buddy has a high end computer and it showed that the driver side bank was running lean. The computer showed the O2 sensors to be working fine, and I replaced the PCV valve. All other vacuum line appear to be in good condition and I tried the spray test with the break cleaner with the motor running. This is leading me to believe the air intake gaskets where due for replacement. Here is my problem, I can not get the last bolt out of the plenum. The one on the driver side up against the fire wall. I tried to remove the cowl in order to get a straight shot at it but I can not get the seem seal to break free.
View 4 RepliesSo I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
View 14 RepliesA 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.
Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.
On my car which never overheated but one day the overflow for the radiator started gurgling and I turned off the car fast and brought to our mechanic and he advised that it was head gasket after changing hoses and water pump. when I first realized the gurgling and shut off the car and never ran it again did i save the engine and replacing the head gasket is a good thing. also did I save the head from warping by my actions?
View 13 Repliesso I have a 2azfe engine
So there's an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket (just purchased vehicle dirt cheap with 220k)
found this
Notice all the oil sitting on top of the exhaust mani gasket
In the left(lower) part of the picture it appears to be scraped.
the gasket appears to be newer, I did NOT use a screw driver to remove the valve cover, which is what this appears to have been done..
Can this be sanded down then filled with jb weld, and then regasketed?
It appears that I have a small tran. fluid leak. Local Toyota dealer quoted me a reasonably low amount (300 or so) to fix.
My mechanic however, disagrees and says that this is a major work as the leak appears to come from the read gasket right in the middle of the entire tranny. He said the tans. need to come out and apart.
The leak is minor. It was first spotted at least a month ago and I never had to add fluid. Currently its right on the hot mark when measured after driving.
I would like to believe that my mechanic is somehow wrong. I never had to deal with a transmission leak that requires such a major effort to fix (I am talking pos old GM, Honda, etc). It just sounds odd (but then I never had a leaky rack and pinion either except in this Camry).
It would be very frustrating having to drop another grand into this car. The mileage is less than 90.000 miles. Its an automatic 2005 4 cyl.
I own a 2003 Toyota Camry with 195,000 miles. We have owned the car for about 6 years. It is now leaking oil from the drivers side of the head gasket. The oil has been leaking down onto the exhaust and smoking, and it has been getting worse and worse. This is a second car and is not used much, only once a month for short trips. Is there any temporary fix for this that can maybe get me through a year? Also, I have heard mixed opinions on how hard replacing the head gasket is, does the engine really need to be removed?
View 9 RepliesI have the 2.4l engine and the car has 177K on it. Bought it from a friend at 60K and never had a problem with it. I started getting the coolant puddle from the rear of the engine. We took the intake manifold off and saw that the head was leaking in the rear. Real small drop forming and then falling. No codes at the time either. Seems this car has problems with the Engine bolts and was wondering how many people out there had a blown head gasket and there was no bolt issue?
Also I know this is not the right thing to do but use Engine Block Sealant? This is the kind that you drain your antifreeze,flush twice and then run this stuff in it for little while and then replace with antifreeze.
I am upside down on the car because I put 50K a year on so don't think I will get anything for trade. I am hoping my brother in law and I can fix it but am wondering what the odds are there is a problem with the bolts.
I'll start by saying that I have a 2004 GTI 1.8t. Picked the car up from a local junkyard around 2 months ago for a grand. They were unsure why it was running rough, so I took a chance and picked it up. Got it back to the house and the timing chain tensioner was shot. Ordered a new one up. Went to a friends house and he noticed it was producing some white smoke from the tail pipe and suggest I take a look into my head gasket. Replaced the head gasket about 2 weeks ago. Got everything buttoned back up and it smoked even worse.
Being my first head gasket change I accepted the fact that I may not have been thorough enough in my replacement and stripped her back down once again. Made sure I was extremely focused and replaced the head gasket again. I just got her back together and she is still smoking.
I know for a fact that coolant is getting into my pistons and causing my spark plugs to foul out. Too much moisture in the cylinder.
I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 with the 3.0L V6 & a 5-speed, with about 128k miles.
The car runs fine, but was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold and so I recently had the valve cover gaskets replaced. the mechanic could not get replacement gaskets from Mazda, and so changed the valve covers themselves also, and consequently needed to replace a couple of hoses that connect to the valve covers.
Since the repair, the car drives fine - acceleration seems normal, I don't notice any performance issues. The CEL is NOT lit.
1) When the car is in neutral, but rolling, the idle consistently bounces back and forth precisely between 1250 & 1500 rpm. This occurs always, and happens whether the gearshift is in neutral or the clutch is depressed. With the radio off I can hear the engine surging when this is going on. As soon as the car comes to a complete stop, the idle immediately drops to the a rock-steady position just below 1000 rpm, as it always has.
2) I assume related to the above, but since the repair my gas mileage has dropped from its usual 18-19mpg to 15.7-15.9mpg as recorded at two fill-ups, and my current tankful is looking to return equally low mileage.
I brought the car back to the shop and the mechanic took the car out for a drive with me, with his computer hooked up while we drove. He found nothing wrong, nothing out of whack, and saw no evidence of any air leaks.
1) Seems strange to me that the valve cover gasket couldn't be obtained, and new valve covers were needed. I want to believe the garage is being straight with me. Is this really plausible?
2) What could cause the idle to behave this way? I understand what a valve cover does (in my earlier years I changed the cylinder head on my old Saturn) and can't figure out how or why changing the valve covers would have an effect like this.
That leads me to conclude this is more likely caused by the new, slightly different hoses attached to the valve cover, but I don't know exactly what those hoses do or why they connect to the valve covers, so I'm stuck here.
I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. It has been treating me LIKE GOLD !!! up to this point. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light. I let it go for about a week hoping that it would just go away.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side. So I took their advice and I had them perform the coolant flushes.
After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again. SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues! The check engine light came back on the next day.
The coolant is leaking from the gasket that is on the front of the engine. My repair guy suggested that I also do the timing belt at the same time. Do I have any other options? The Honda has 217,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesA while ago I got my oil changed at a Midas location and it was not for a couple months later when I got my oil changed again that Midas cross threaded the oil plug. So now I've got a slow leak and I was told that I'm going to have to replace the oil pan the next time I get an oil change.
View 11 Repliesmy truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a leak in one rear shock and the pads need replacing. Local NTW says they are certified mechanics and work on GX's. Dealer is so darn expensive I'm trying to find an alternative. I'm looking to see if others feel good with going outside the dealer when they can not do it themselves. 2004 GX470 ...
View 1 RepliesHow difficult is it to replace the valve cover gasket on a 2001 Santa Fe with a 2.7? Can I just do the 'front' valve cover? Are there any tutorials with plenty of pictures while doing this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 pontiac montana that needs the head gasket replace. Mileage is 152,000 miles with a v6 engine. I would like to get at least another 75,000 miles once the repair is done. Is it worth doing as alternative is to scrap the van and buy a new vehicle...
View 3 RepliesA few days ago I noticed some oil leaking from the left (front) valve cover area and I suspect it's the gasket. Fortunately, I didn't see any leaks from the back cover. It seemed like an easy job to replace the gasket, but as I started to disconnect the wiring, e.g., cam sensor, spark plugs, etc., I can't seem to find a way to remove the black plastic wiring harness 'housing' out of the way.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Subaru Forester X Sport Model. I just passed 86,000 miles - much of that open road driving. My head gaskets need to be replaced. This seems somewhat early. I recently switched from using regular motor oil to a synthetic blend that the dealership suggested. Is there any history suggesting that switching lubricants might cause the head gaskets to deteriorate?
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