Camry :: 2004 - Ignition Coil Connector Broke - Connect Directly?
Mar 11, 2015
I replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday on my 2004 Camry. While putting back together, three of the tabs on the connectors for the ignition coil harness snapped off and would not stay together because of tension on the harness. I tried to zip tie them because I read that in another forum post but the clips (alligator clips?) inside the connector did not seem to be making contact with connector on top of ignition coil. The car was mis-firing and running very rough.
After much frustration, I finally removed the wires with the alligator clips from inside the connector and plugged them directly into the top of the ignition coil. Well, the car started and seems to be running/idling fine although now the Check Engine Light is on. Also, I have not driven car yet.
My question: Can I drive the car like this or will the vibration from the engine eventually loosen the connections. I am planning on ordering the connectors but they will not be in for a few days and I need to drive the car.
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Changed the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
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Any easy solution to reseating this wire in the connector? It got yanked out by accident when i was removing an ignition coil under the wiring harness. 2007 camry v6
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Scheduled maintenance for changing spark plugs for my Camry 2004 2.4L is either 120k miles, or 144 months (12 years). My Camry reached 12 years first. In removing the coil connectors, 3 of 4 holdowns cracked off. I guess not so surprising after 12 years subject to engine heat. I'm NOT going to replace the connectors. Looking for a patch for this problem? Duct tape will just result in adhesive getting everywhere it shouldn't. Maybe there's a high temperature "crazy glue" I could apply at the connector interface that will last another 12 years, or 120k miles?
Otherwise, I'll use the "hope adhesive". That means I'll just hope the connectors don't work loose at a bad time.
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I had squirrels eat wires to the front 3 Ignition coil connector on my a 2005 ford escape XLT,my question is the new connectors have a white and black wire and the old ones had a red and a colored wire, but comparing both old and new connectors I notice the new connector has the black wire where the old connector has a red, so do I use the black wire to replace the old Red? , it's rather confusing to me when you plug in the new connector you can see the black wire is where the red wire was on the old one, or does it matter which wire goes where?
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I changed out my plugs. The plug connector on the #3 coil no longer snaps on. My only option is to use a small ziptie to hold it in place. Can cut it off and wired a new plug end on..
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Ok I have an f 150 04 fx4. 120k miles. I was checking a drip on the transmission cooler, and noticed my passenger side coil spring is broken 2nd coil from the bottom. Truck rides well, but obviously this needs to be addressed. Break looks old since it is rusted over, I probably relocated from new England to Florida driving this down 95 with this break, scary.
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I have a 2002 Camry 2.4L, ECM 89666-06220, ignition coil 90919-02243. One of the coils has gone out. I got a misfire code on P303. I then moved the cylinder 3 coil to cylinder 4, cleared the code and restarted the car. The new code was P304, bad coil. I found a set of low mileage used coils, 90080-19023. The dealer says this number was one of the three options for 2002. But the pin-to-pin ohm values don't match.
The 90080-19023 pin ohms, 1-2= 348, 1-3=667, 1-4= 490, 2-3= 1100, 2-4= 912, 3-4= open. The 90919-02243 pin ohms, 1-2= 390, 1-3= 673, 1-4=940, 2-3= 1154, 2-4=1403, 3-4= open. How to successfully do this substitution and not burned up ECM ?
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We bought it in 2010, since then we have replaced 5 ignition coils and 2-3 batteries. Everytime the car acts up, the VSC and traction lights come on and the car starts stumbling and hesitating. The car eventually dies within a few minutes. Pull up codes and its always been an ignition coil.
Well we had all of these covered under warranty until the warranty expired in Aug. A month ago this happened again, and thought the battery was dead. It ended up being #4 coil, so I replaced.
My wife drove last week and lights came on and lights started going on/off and dinging at her and the car died. I jumped it to get it home, turned off the car and was dead. Voltage at battery was 9 volts.
I charged overnight and started the next day. I pulled negative battery cable w car running to check alternator and it stayed running, so that's good. The car is now starting just fine again.....until this happens again.....which it will.
My question is what in the heck can be making all of the coils go bad and why is the car intermittently throwing warning lights and just dying? This last time the codes pulled we P0345, PO365, PO390. All of which I don't see an explanation for.
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Just a few weeks ago I replaced a bad ignition coil because I got the engine code P0302. I replaced the spark plugs with NGK Laser Iridium and the second Ignition coil. Now a few weeks later the Ignition coil 1 has died on me.
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Just picked up a Ctek 3300 battery charger for my 2008 LS460L since we only drive it a few days a week. Is it safe to connect directly to the battery under the hood?
Where is the ideal spot to jump start on an LS? Reason I ask is that my BMW 6series have the battery at the back trunk but for any charging or jump starts it must be done under the hood where there is a terminal that goes to the battery.
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I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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Hit a bump in the road, car hiccuped then EPC and MIL illuminated. Scanned it with Carista and showed low fuel pressure. Looked under engine cover... Lo and behold! Connector is plugged in but male portion on regulator is snapped off!!! Needs whole fuel pump assembly at 25,000 miles!
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I have a 2007 RX 350 2WD. Recently, the check engine light is on, as well we two other lights are on as well: VSC, TRAC OFF.
I went to Lexus and was told that the error code is P0356. I was told that the ignition coil F is problematic and need replaced. I was quoted 1 and 1/2 hours two 2 hours work and need $412 for the repair. Well, I went to auto zone and was told that No 2, 4, 6 ignition coils were on outside so that it would only take about 5 minutes to replace the problematic one with a new one.
I did the replacement indeed by myself after buying a new ignition coil. Initially it was fine and the light went off after a little while. However, after about 10 days, those three lights went back again. I check the ignition coil, it seems fine and I was told that it is very unlikely for a new ignition coil to go bad this quickly.
I was told that I may need to check my spark plug as well. BTW, when I start the car, the car is a little bit shaky.
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I just completed the spark plug change on my wife's '07 RX350. As the numerous threads on this topic point out, this is one serious undertaking. I'm not claiming to be a mechanic but have done my share of DIY's including changing the usual oil/filter, brake discs/pads, serpentine belt, rear hatch switch and now the spark plugs on my wife's car and the same or similar on all of my other cars. This has got to be the single most difficult project that I've tackled recently. I did fail to do the front Mac struts but this was because I didn't appear to have the right spring compressor. Go figure.
Anyhow, I found that I needed to remove the front windshield cowl to get access to that infamous third stay bolt.
To my question ... I managed to break off the tabs that lock the connector to the ignition coil on about three spark plugs. I'm concerned about these eventually vibrating off. Should I be concerned about this? Do I need to now go in and change these? Or, tie-wrap then in place?
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I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
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Looks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
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I'm looking around for coil packs and came across these: Granatelli Pro Series Extreme Coil Packs.....
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So I went out to check the oil this morning and the dipstick has broken off just above the full line. There is still just a bit of plastic attached to the metal part and apparently the rest is down in the pan. How worried should I be about this? Could it clog up the oil pump or pickup tube? I last checked the oil about a week ago, so I'm not sure how many days I've been driving it this way.
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