I know soft brakes has been a topic but I was hoping I could get some insight and links to suggestions to "stiffen" them up. Any recommend calipers and pads? I've heard this problem or complaint is simply rectified by changing them.
Just bought the 04 with 144 K miles. Runs really nice. What I can expect to repair or replace in the future?
I have a '86 Fod Bronco that I have changed the brake lines on and the brakes will not stiffen up (they weren't that good before the switch either). The master cylinder leaks a couple thimble full after driving and it seems to pull a little while braking, but both the disc are shiny so the calipers are not locked. The pedal is still soft even if something is going on otherwise. I have tried bleeding having someone pump the brakes 5-10 times and hold it while I bled it and repeated 10 times on each bleeder screw using 32 oz of fluid, but apparently I did something wrong. All of this to say, have any of y'all used any brake bleeding vacuum kits and which ones would you recommend?
View 7 RepliesI have a motorcycle carrier than plugs into a trailer hitch on my PIP. It drags the rear end. Is there a way to stiffen the rear shocks? Is there any shocks that I can vary the pressure in maybe by air?
View 10 RepliesThe suspension in the back of my sonata is soft as a hush puppy. I'm 6'3", 225 lbs, my brother is the same and a couple of my friends are around the same numbers. When we get in the car, the suspension completely collapses and my tires are rubbing. How can I stiffen up this suspension? It's softer than the 2015 Civic we have and my 2015 Ghibli.. We can have 4 of us in those cars with no problem. I'm trying to make it this car more practical for me without getting into a full coil over system just so I can have a passenger or two in the back seat!
View 4 RepliesI own a 2004 camry 3.0 v6 Car. Recently, i realized that i have to press hard on the brakes for the car to stop and its been like that ever since. I driven my dads rav4 and my friends corolla to test and their cars begin to stop just as i light press on the brakes. Mine however, i need more force to being to slow the car down.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
I've had this problem ever since the car was new but it's starting to get MUCH worse The brake pedal travels a lot before it seems to engage I just got an oil change done at the dealership who also flushed the trans fluid and told me my rear brakes had 0mm left
I came home and replaced the brakes, they had Nothing left Also replaced the rotors while I was at it, put everything together and the pedal is still soft Took it back to a dealership and they said it's normal and that a brake flush / bleed wouldn't do anything Pads were replaced with Duralast semi - metallic and rotors were Duralast
Now a couple things I noticed when I replaced the brakes:
1 - The slide pins were seized I cleaned them with brake cleaner, lubed them and they seem to slide now Rubber seals also seem fine Good enough or replace the caliper mount / pins?
2 - The brake pads sit on the caliper in this metal groove All other cars I've worked on, the pads can slightly slide These pads are jammed in place on these pins I cleaned them with brake cleaner, took a wire brush to them until they looked new, lubed them and pads slide with force but for the most part are jammed in place
how to do this... The brakes can be down to the ground doesn't always hold on a hill. Plus it pushes down too easy in my pinyon
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Lately I've been noticing on my 07 camry when i step on the brakes i have to press a lot of more than normal and when i'm stopped and still have my foot on the brake pedal i hear a hissing sound or hissing air with my foot still on the brakes.
View 10 RepliesMy 2005 Camry LE water pump busted, so i replaced the pump and the water pump pulley as well. Now (since i replaced the parts) my car runs terribly. On idle it seems to run very low (about 600-700 RPMs in drive with the brakes on. When i turn on my A/C the RPMs drop significantly and it shakes a bit to the point where it almost kills after a few seconds, then picks back up slightly.
I recently replaced my water pump and water pump pulley, then RIGHT after my car started doing this. To be completely clear, my car was NOT doing this before I changed my water pump. It DID run hot a few times before i was able to replace my pump, could I have fried something?? I am fairly certain its not a blown head gasket, although I do lose water pretty quickly i think.
A few hours ago my friend was getting off the interstate driving a 99' Toyota Camry. She went to use the brakes and they had no effect. They did not go all the way to the floor and she says there was a lack of pressure/resistance , then a grabbing feeling before the floor but no effect and no sounds. She had to use the emergency brake. It was 14 degrees last night and above 32 today. The brakes worked from the house to the interstate, then did not.It has been towed and so far the mechanics say they can't find anything wrong.
View 5 RepliesI am having some issues with the brakes on my Camry squealing when I don't have my foot on the brakes. Its an intermittent issue and it doesn't start making the noise until Ive been driving for 15 minutes usually and mostly does it at speeds above 45 mph. If I gently put my foot on the brake the noise stops and as soon as I take my foot off the brake it starts again.
Also, if I drive for more than 30 minutes without using the brakes the noise gradually gets quieter and then goes away. Last winter I had the passenger side rear inner brake pad get worn down to the metal. I think the caliper slides had stuck, because they were hard to push in and didn't spring back. I put some grease on them and didn't have any noise for about 9 months and just recently the noise came back.
Now, I didn't use actual caliper grease, I just used lithium grease and Ive read recently that you need to use caliper grease because over time lithium grease will dry up. I've checked all of the brake pads and none of them is down to the metal or even worn down to a point where the scratches would touch the brake rotor and cause a noise.
In fact, about a month ago I replaced the front pads and the noise was still there. Now, here's my question: do that sticking caliper pins on the rear caliper would cause this noise and that I simply need to grease the pins?
The brakes on my 2002 Camry work. They have never been stellar, they never "kicked in" as quickly as on my mom's 2006 Camry but they do work.So I am pulling into a parking spot and I hit the brakes as I am stopping there, and they just didn't kick in, there was a little rattling heard but they didn't really kick in.It happened again today as I was pulling into my drive way, it's not something I can reliably repeat, but it's happened again, and it has me concerned.
2002's are not supposed to have brakes issues of the kind 2007s and later did I thought? What could the cause of this be, the brakes are not totally worn out or else I would hear that all the time...
I have a 2003 Camry LE 4cly. Approx 150k miles. Car has been a good Camry. About 6 months ago it started to shudder when applying brakes. At first I thought rotors, but it seemed speed dependent. When over 40 it happens more often and more strongly. After the car gets below 10 to 20 the shudder ceases. Front pads are in reasonable shape. Rotating tires does not affect the shudder. Has never effected handling of vehicle. Brakes work without fail, just shudder in front end and steering wheel. I tried flushing the system, had not done that previously. Fluid was yellow, but not black. After the flush, the system seemed to shudder less, but still have the intermittent shudder. There are no error code for ABS, and the light is not on and does not come on.
View 5 RepliesI didn't put the rear drum on while adjusting the rear brakes, now the drum wont go back on because the brakes are too far out. How do I get my drum back on! This is on a 2002 Camry LE
View 6 RepliesI have a new battery in my 2008 Toyota Camry XLE. The car wouldn't start today so I replaced the starter. Auto parts store tested original and confirmed it was no good. After replacing the starter it still will not start. The brake will not depress. The instrument panel lights will not come on, but the air, radio, headlights, wipers, etc. will turn on. What else could be wrong. We have been trying to figure it out all day and can't even turn it on to get it to a mechanic.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 1997 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it. Recently, my brakes were grinding. My ex-mechanic father said he would replace them. When he took the wheel off, he found that the calipers were bound and had been for awhile, as the rotors and pads were metal on metal (whoops). Both sides were completely replaced- pads, rotors, and calipers (he figured if one caliper was binding, the other was or could be soon, though the wear wasn't as bad). He bled the brakes and things were ok for about a month and a half.
My new issue is that the brakes are binding on my drive home from work (after it sits outside for 7-10 hours). The car lugs along. I pull over, try pumping the pedal (which is very stiff) and then make my way home, where my boyfriend takes the car around the block and does something magic and the brakes are no longer stuck. They aren't stuck the next morning, but are when I get in the car at the end of the work day. The wheel wells smell strongly of burning rubber as well.
Things we have checked : We've jacked up both front wheels and the tires spin. They spin less easily when the brake binding problem is present, but they still spin. We've checked the suction, the hoses that connect the booster to the engine, and the brake booster- all appear ok. The brake fluid levels are fine. The pedal remains stiff when you put the car in neutral and even when you turn it off. So what do I do next? We're semi-handy and I'd like to drive this car a bit longer, though I've started the replacement car search.
Independent mechanic replaced brakes and rotors on my 2006 Camry LE with NAPA parts. All was fine for a week or two but now I'm getting a squeak when I apply the brakes. Mostly this is at low speed. the squeak varies in loudness and length and does not happen all the time. Also after repeated stops, the brakes will grind at the tail end of braking (right before the car comes to a complete stop).
Stopping distance is not affected nor is there any vibration. I plan to take it back to the mechanic later this week but what the issue could be?
I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.
I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?
Are there any tricks to replacing the front brake pads on a Hybrid?
View 2 Replies2006 Camry, intermittently the brake pedal sinks by going a inch or so further than normal. Car still stops and I don't think it is all the way at the floor. It is not very frequent, maybe 5% of the time. When it does occur it always happens on a second pump while slowing to a stop or turn, so the car is always going below 10 mph when it occurs.
Mechanic can find nothing wrong with the brakes themselves or any air in the lines. The fluid level is stable. I am guessing it is either the master cylinder or booster. Is there a way to diagnose which one it might be? Could it be a vacuum leak due to only showing up at low speed?