Camry :: 2004 Driver Side Power Window Makes A Pop When Leaving The Seal
Oct 23, 2014
I have a 2004 camry with 107k miles. The power drivers window makes a pop when leaving the seal. I have cleaned out the track, lubricated with silicone spray, but this did not solve the problem.
When I put a little pressure on the top of the window with my hand it comes down fine without popping.
I am thinking it may be a track issue. It appears the window is shifting 1/4-1/2 " to the front just before it contacts the seal.
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Driver side window seal folds over badly, wind noise is evident.
Passenger side lumbar broken .
And finally. The front jerk when applying brakes. It's not there in the morning, gets worse as you start driving, feels like strut bar bushings, but all of the control arms were changed in February. Having a tech join me for a ride to show this problem to him. I'm staring to think it's either caliper, or brake actuator.
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Just had the driver window glass replaced. This is the second repair as the first guy just glued it and I think he partially detached the outer window seal. Is there a way to glue it back or does it need to be replaced? Is that something I could do. Now that I've seen videos, I could have replaced the window glass myself.....
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So after 6 1/2 years, my original Panasonic battery died today morning. I used jump start to get to work and used the same method to take the car to Sears to replace with Diehard Platinum.
While driving back, after the battery replacement, I noticed that I couldn't use auto power window roll up or down on driver side (manual roll up/down worked). Other three windows won't even work. I checked the windows lock button and it wasn't in lock position.
I turned the ignition power off and turned on to ACC. Then I could able to roll driver side windows up/down in auto. However, other three windows remain nonoperational. I also noticed a small green light on the window is illuminated only for driver side.
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Rolled it down yesterday. Won't roll back up. Without hitting any buttons, I hear a click in the door every 15 seconds or so. During these 15-20 seconds, when I hit the power window button, the door makes a clicking noise like it is trying to activate the motor, but nothing happens. Then it clicks, and for the next 15-20 seconds, no click, no noise, no matter how many times I hit the window switch. Then after the next click, I will hear a click again whenever i hit the button, and so on and so on, on and off every 15 seconds. I tried taking apart the switch box and checking the contacts. They were fine.
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I drive an '04 with about 86k. Shortly after I hit 85k i got into an accident that required both drivers side doors and the drivers window to be replaced. 2 weeks ago I noticed that my driver's window was excessively loud going up and slower to rise than the other windows. Upon closer inspection it seems that the rubber surround at the front part of the window gets bunched up requiring the motor to work harder to get the window all the way up. I fear that it is only a short time before the motor fails and the window becomes useless.
I plan to go back to the body shop and have them take a look at it. I am not fully sure if they caused the problem, my common sense tells me that the drivers window ought to be the first to fail, seeing as it gets used the most (garage tickets, drive throughs etc. But I am hesitant to replace the motor if the repairs were done improperly causing it to burn out). How much the motor runs? I am guessing that this will not be a cheap repair, but my hope is that the body shop will at least do the labor for free seeing as they replaced the window and the door and I now have this problem. I have to take the car back anyways, they replaced the fender and it is loose at the top.
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I have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?
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My driver side power window on my '05 super crew f150 has stopped working. It rolled down maybe 3-4 inches or so and the stopped working and now will not go up or down. All of the other windows/locks/mirrors on the main switch work so I'm not sure if I should start with replacing the motor or try the switch first.
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About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
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2011 SE v6 18k miles (certified used)
When we bought our Camry a couple months ago one of the things we noticed at the dealership when looking at the car was that all the windows had a black line at the very top of all of the windows. It looks like the window seal is rubbing off onto the windows and leaving this black line of "stuff" on the window.
We mentioned it to the salesman who said that when the car was being detailed, it would be cleaned off.
When we were picking up the car, there was still some of this black residue on the very tops of the windows, where it seals into the door. We said something to the salesman and he personally took a razor and some cleaner and wiped it off.
Here is the problem, it keeps doing it. I'm assuming that the window seals are bad, possibly from the heat? Either way they keep leaving this black residue on the windows which is annoying my wife.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I'm new to Volkswagen, never had one before. Just bought my buddies 2003 GTI 20th anniversary #106. My bud install glass projector headlights, which he has the projector as his DRL's and for some reason when you release the E brake, which turns the DRL's, the projector lights on, they flicker and only the driver side stays on leaving the passenger side off. If I pull the E brake back up to turn them off and back down again it flickers on but won't stay on. Sometimes it does switch sides to where the passenger side works and the driver side doesn't but its the passenger side that mostly has the problem. Now I can continue to do this and eventually after 3 or 4 pulls of the E brake i can get them both working. I'm OCD about these little things like this and i want it to work right.
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Where I can find an electrical schematic for the driver's door window? It recently stopped going up and down, and I want to pull the switch panel out and test the switch before yanking the whole door panel to test the motor. I just need to figure out which connector pins should get tested for continuity.
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09 SE--> I'm getting streaks inside the driver side front window whenever it goes down. The streaks wipe off easily, it's just annoying to have to do it every time I move the window. They aren't straight across and aren't in the exact spot every time, but the same general area. I'm guessing it's coming from one of the seals inside the door, I don't have to take the door skin off more than I need to: simply clean them or all-out replacement.
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Recently i just noticed that my window is scratching against something inside my door when it goes down. It sounds like a rolling plastic wheel is scratching my window leaving Marks and noise.
I'm thinking about talking to Toyota about this. It's a 2011 SE camry, I bought it in July 2010.
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My driver's side window stopped working. Does it need new electric motor or is it a common electrical connection or wiring issue. How to take the door panel off?
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My rear windows, driver's side mostly was stuck...on and off, mostly off...since I bought Kitacamry 2 years ago, and discovered this...(for search engine users the title identifies potential sources for the problem)...
The windows were so snug that they stuck to the rubber if not used much, and here in south Florida they're hardly used, and often would not roll down...sometimes they would but not always...dealers thought it was the motor, or the regulator or the switch...and who could blame them?
I've discovered that it's not the regulator, and that the motor was just not strong enough to "break the seal" of the rubber.
I recently had a regulator repaired (a screw was loose) and noticed that the shop sprayed the rubber with silicone and that made the window glide much more smoothly...soooo....
I sprayed the other windows' rubber seals...and WOW....all open and glide down and up smooth as silk...If your windows are stuck....give silicone spray a shot...
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My passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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Just purchased a used 2003 camry 2.0G A/T. The driver's side window slides down well when using the auto button, but gets stuck 1/4 way on the way up. Have to wait a while before holding the button to slide it up all the way. What might be wrong and how I can correct?
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My wife and I recently purchased an 02 Camry. Last night the drivers door stopped opening from the inside and outside. Then we noticed the window was getting stuck rolling down and when I pushed down a bit the door popped open! Happened a couple times before the window got stuck.
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