Camry :: 2004 - Car Does Not Heat Up / Won't Be In Ready State
Apr 23, 2012
I have a 2004 Camry XLE and the CAT does not heat up and be in ready state. After using SCANTOOL on the computer, it does not pick up any reading for O2 Sensor bank 2. I have changed a new o2 sensor at the bottom of the care by the oil pan. Still it does not provide any data. thus it leads me to believe that it's an electrical, fuse, or OBD computer has issue. So I am asking - do the O2 Sensor has fuses/use fuses?
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I just failed inspection because check engine light is on. The codes state that catalytic converter and O2 sensor are "not ready". I understand it has to do with the computer but not much else. Someone on Mazda 6 message board provided a complicated sequence of driving instructions including maintaining various speeds and RPMs for specific lengths of time which they said would reset the computer. My mechanic is at a loss. This car is a lemon and I would just like to get the inspection done so I can trade it in and get something that doesn't keep breaking.
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A month ago I bought a 2007 Prius with 140,000 km. I notice that the state of charge drops into the 'red' bars within about 20 minutes of the car switched on, in Park with no accessories running. A mechanic connected his diagnostic computer and saw 2 cells are low. However, the mechanic informs me there is no value in replacing those cells as others are likely to go down, thereafter. Is there anything I can do to avoid having to replace the entire traction battery?
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I've noticed today on my Camry that no matter what I set the air flow selector to on my heater, air only blows on the floor. Temperature and and fan speed seem to work fine. Going around to some local repair shops I was told the whole dash would need to be removed for a repair.
From what I have read changing the air flow selector I should hear some motor make the change from the floor to the face, but do not hear anything.
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I just finished replacing front and rear struts on my 2003 Camry SE. I decided to use Gabriel Ready Struts because I needed Boots, and Mounts. My Car has 150,000 miles, I noticed some mild nose diving during hard braking, and I wanted to improve this.
The Ready Struts did improve the nose diving, but I think the car had a better ride with original struts with 150,000.
The Car is lower in the front with the new struts, and higher in the back. Its obvious when you look at the car. I have a regular parking place at work, and the first day I parked I scraped the curb. I have parked there every day since the car was new without problems.
I am considering returning the struts, and buying KYB and using my original struts. I was concerned about using my springs with 150,000.
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I have a 2004 prius that sat for 2 years, I just replace a cell, worked on the HV battery and made sure it was balanced. I got the battery back in and I can't get it to go into Ready mode, I can get it to ignition on and charge the battery and into acc. I've checked several components to see if they were causing the issue.
- 12v battery is good
- brake light switch seems to be good as the lights come on when the brake pedal is pressed (but ready mode does not)
- I've checked a number of fuses
- used and obd2 adapter with torque and it is not coming up with any codes
-Edit-
- 12v battery was replaced last spring and has been maintained
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My 2005 Prius won't go into READY mode. This has been happening for many times now almost a month. Up until today if I let it sit there for a while (sometimes a couple of hours) it would work eventually, however, starting today it just does not want to go into READY mode. One thing that I have noticed is that when I press the brake pedal the brake lights do not turn on. I have been suggested that it could be the Stop Light Switch that causes it, and one way to check was to perform the following procedure:
(1) Push the P position switch.
(2) Parking brake pedal is depressed.
(3) Turn the power switch from off to on (ACC)
(4) Brake pedal is depressed.
(5) Press and hold the power switch for 15 seconds or more.
According to Vincent if this starts the car then it is the Stop Light Switch but I was not able to start my car even with this procedure (may be I am doing it wrong.
Note: I have checked the 12V battery and it is not the problem.
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I measured battery on my 2007 Prius by MDF, it's only 11.9V, charging is about 14V. When I turn on ACC mode, and Radio is on, I think it shut down the radio after about 15minutes; I cannot put the car in ready mode after it shut down. I have to jump it in order to put in ready mode. Is it my turn to replace this auxiliary battery?
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I have 2004 Toyota Prius 110k miles on it. New auxilary battery on it. VSC, Brake and Red triangle lights are on. The car wont start. System comes on, but ready light doesn't not appear.
If I discoonect the battery for a minute and connect it back, I am able to start and drive it. After a minute VSC, brake light comes on. I still can drive the car and it drives perfect. As soon as I shut it off, I won't be able to restart it again. I have to disconnect the battery for a minute to get it started. Inverter pump seems to be working fine.
I got the codes with the paper clip VSC 43, Brake 36. After resetting the codes, I drove the car and now it throws VSC 51 code.
Check engine light is not on. When I checked with OBD scanner, it does not show any codes. When we checked with shop's scanner, there was a code smth "LOST COMMUNICATION WITH HYBRID..."
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I replaced the HV Control ECU on my 2007 Prius, because my coding scan read POA1D. Now the lights on the dash all light up, but the Ready light does not come on.
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3x in the past few weeks it has taken 10 minutes or so to start the car. the ready signal just doesn't come. All the dash lights come on too.
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Im having some issues after swapping the engine on my 05. The swap went well and i hooked everything back up the way it was. I have triple checked every connection. If I am missing one then it is hidden extremely well.
I reconnected the HV and Aux batteries but the car will not go into ready mode. All the warning lights come on and the screen shows problem!
The inverter coolant pump is running, my basic obd2 scanner shows no codes.
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When I start the car and get the Ready light, I try to shift into P or R, or anything, it doesn't shift. Then it beeps once. I've tried turning everything off. Exiting, locking, unlocking and retrying.
I get the Ready light and the gas engine even starts, it just won't shift. But beeps once after I try to shift into any gear.
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I recently changed out my 2006 blown gas engine with a great running 2008 engine and also replaced the hybrid battery. After connecting everything, my car won't start. All the lights come on except for the ready light. Does something have to be reset?
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2007 Prius
I just replaced the 12V battery with an Optimus yellow top. The car still will not start. All dash lights come on, READY light does not. Car will only shift into Park and Neutral.
Battery reads 12.6 volts when not hooked up and 12.3 when cables attached to terminals.
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Thursday afternoon I drove about 120 miles total in my 2004. At about 40 miles I left my wife to shop and drove on to 3-4 other stops for myself and then came back to pick her up for the 40 mile drive home. When she got into the passenger seat, she found that the carpet & mat on the floor were sopping wet, so we put some heavy towels over the wet area to protect her shoes. When we got home (with NO operational issues), I removed the passenger floor mat, put several thicknesses of more heavy towels on the carpet and placed 2 concrete blocks on the towels to soak up the water.
On Friday, I changed the towels and did not use the car. Saturday, I removed the towels, concrete blocks, and went to start the car so I could see if there was water dripping from under the dash from a plugged condensate drain, since I had not driven in rain or water on Thursday. The dash displayed every warning light imaginable including "check engine", hybrid system warning, slip indicator, brake system warning, Master warning (!), VSC, Maint reqd. Now it is Sunday and I still cannot get to the "Ready" light so I can start the car. My traction battery condition was solid green yesterday, solid blue today. The radio, interior lights, A/C fan, door locks, etc. all work.
Could there be anything under the passenger carpeting (or behind the dash which might have gotten wet which could be causing these problems/codes?
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I have a 2006 Prius that is giving me fits. The car is equipped with the smart key but it seems to be working normally. I insert the key, press the brake, and then press the power button like I am supposed to but the "ready" light doesn't come on and the car won't start. I checked the brake light switch and it is working correctly. 12v battery is charged and shows 12.35 volts. I have been tinkering with the car for the past three days and have only gotten the light to come on and the car to start twice out of the numerous tries.
The last time it started the dreaded "triangle" and check engine light were on so I plugged my scanner in and got code P0A1F, I had a spare battery ECU so I replaced it, while I was at it I removed the battery and cleaned the terminals, there was only a very small amount of light corrosion on a couple of cells. All cells tested good and had uniform voltage. I haven't gotten the car to start since putting everything back together. I have a small amount of experience with these cars but I've got alot to learn.
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We just replaced the Traction battery in my 2004 prius. The car has 242,000 miles on it and was running fine when we pulled it in. The battery was purchased used from a 2005 prius with just over 80k on the clock. The replacement battery was removed from the wrecked prius less than a month ago.
The problem is that after installing the new traction battery, every thing looks great except the Ready light will not come on. There are no warning lights except the little red light that indicates there is no key in the car. The key will remotely lock and unlock the car so I'm sure the battery is not dead and the no-key light stays on even if I insert the key into the key slot on the dash. The shifter will only move from Park to Neutral.
What am I doing wrong? Is there some special procedure to go through to make the car recognize the key after replacing the battery?
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The sound emanates approximately from the area of the coolant storage tank (driver's side, behind the front bumper), though I doubt the tank or its pump is the problem. It sounds only when the car is in 'ready' status. I also think it is not one of the relays in the nearby fusebox. There water-pump drive belt is not on that side, so I don't think it's the water pump or its idler pulley. I have posted a ten-second sound recording on YouTube, greatly amplified. (Ignore the video portion.)
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I tried to get emission test on a 2006 f150 5.4 and they cant do the test as " OBD monitor not ready, how to do a force test or what to do.
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I used to fill up with gas without shutting the car down, because I didn't see a need for it. I would disable the fan on the climate control every time to avoid having the ice come on as I refueled. I figured that because the ice wasn't coming on, I wasn't breaking the law. I've since changed my mind about this, after reading posts here on Prius Chat. I also recently noticed on the last few fillups that it seems like the gas capacity on the bladder has decreased significantly.
I used to be able to refuel the car when it was down to a single flashing pip and put 10.5 gallons in with no problem, and without overfilling. I have always been careful not to overfill. However, it seems like now I can get only 8 gallons in at the most. The capacity has decreased with the colder weather, however I used to be able to get 10 gallons in on a consistent basis without overfilling even during the winter.
Is this reduced bladder capacity a result of damage to the system, or is this normal? I have probably filled the car up about 100 times since I've owned it (odometer is around 50K now) while remaining in the ready mode.
Is there anything I can do to expand the capacity of the bladder back to normal, or will I have to live with this? Although it's annoying, I'm not going to spend the money to replace the fuel tank unless it's truly necessary.
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