Camry :: 2004 - Cannot Get The Axle Carrier / Bearing Bracket Off
Oct 20, 2012
Trying to pull the passenger side axle off my 2004 3.3 SE Camry. The whole hub assembly is out of it so I have some room to work.
I can not get the axle carrier /bearing bracket off. This is the bracket that bolts to the block. The c-clip snap ring thing is removed from the the bearing carrier.
So I am jerking on the CV with a slide hammer, numerous times. Not sure if there has been any movement.
Any secrets? Does transmission have to be in neutral to release the axle from tranny or anything like that?
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i'm just wondering if i need to worry about preload and backlash if i just pull the carrier out and replace only the carrier bearings. would simply replacing the shims in there original side keep the specs where they should be with new bearings or would i have to completely dismantle the housing and start from scratch.
I only ask because you can move the entire carrier by hand and see the slack in the bearings but i don't seem to have any noises or vibrations coming from the rear end so i don't know if it's worth tearing into...
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So, my 2004 F250, CCSB, Fx4, 6.0l, truck broke the carrier bearing today. There is an annoying hum that modulates, the drive shaft has a lot of play and there is light visible at the top of the bearing. The problem is that it broke on a 550 mile trip to Franklin, TN and I need to make the return trip. Is there anything catastrophic that can happen running it this way?
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What is the size of the nut that needs to be removed so I can pull the carrier bearing off the drive shaft? I need to purchase a socket.
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I am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
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My 96 ranger with a 5 spd manual and two piece drive line has the center carrier bearing going out (squeals,vibrates,etc.) I got the part no. from the dealer but they are obsolete. is there a one piece drive line i could put in and what would that take to do.i remember a thread on it somewhere but cannot find it in the search. i would prefer not to use aftermarket because they only have a one year warranty.
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I am looking to replace the carrier bearing and (u joints while I'm in there) on my 08 F-250. I do not have access to a lift so this will be done while on the ground. Am I asking for trouble by doing this on my back?
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I started with removing the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the crossmember that attaches on each side of the frame, well the clip that basically would hold the "nut part" of the bolt on the top side sheared on both of them due to salt+calcium chloride.
It felt like there was a 6 point head up there so I tried fitting wrenches and sockets up on the other side, I finally got a good hold with an 11/16" wrench but it just kept rounding more and more. Normally I would just torch the heads off but the gas tank is right next to it.
Any tips for getting the carrier bearing bolts out now? I don't care if I destroy it they're easy to replace. Also I'm typing this from my phone so Incase my sig doesn't show this is on my 02 f250 crew short bed 4x4
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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I have a 2010 Honda Civic with 73K miles. I've noticed that the car can get loud when driving .
It has 4 Michelin Primacy tires from Costco put on at 45K. Not sure when the noise started, but now with my iphone I run a sound meter app and the sound level is 80 - 95db . Yeah, it's not calibrated, but my wife's Lexus reads about 75db worst case. so even just relative to the lexus, it's loud.
The noise is loudest (95db)at around 57MPH and some other speeds like 47, 67 also. Other speeds in between these, it gets down to 80db.
There's NO vibration at any speeds (so tires are balanced?)There's NO pull to either side when driving There's NO pull to either side when brakingThere's NO change in the sound level when putting the transmission in neutral (so it's not a trans issue?)There's NO change in the sound level when the engine is idling at the speeds (so the sound is not tied to RPM level)There's NO discernible change in the sound level on different roads (so 57 MPH is loud on most any road).The tires are wearing normallyRotating the tires had no change in the sound level
What's left? Tires and axle / bearings? Is there anything I can do to look for / test for to figure out the issue, short of a new set of tires? I guess I'll have a mechanic look at the bearings?
Is tire noise usually tied to road speed in that pattern of getting louder at a certain speed, getting quieter above and below that speed, then get louder again at another certain speed.
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It's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
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Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
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Camry 2004, 50,000 miles
Last week my car started to give out loud thud noise from the rear passenger side wheel and shook as I accelerated. My wheel bearing was bad and leaking. Replaced it. The loud thud noise and shaking are now gone.
However, I hear a constant very low rattling sound from the same wheel when I cruise above 40 mph. Time to time I also hear a loud rattling tin can sound lasting for two seconds, and it mostly happens when I make right turns.
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I have a constant whine going down the road with foot on the gas. Back off and it quiets up. At 2-3 MPH i think i can here a " tick- tick". Took the drive shaft off, wheels off ground, cover off and oil out. Spin wheel and i can hear a tick - tick, I think around the pinion bearing. No play up and down or in and out, but it appears to have 2-3 times the backlash i would expect. I used the screw driver- stethoscope--- still think its the bearing. This is a 9.75 axle. What kind of luck would I have pulling the yoke off and going in from the front without removing axles halves and ring gear? I thought I had read that here before. Never done one that way .
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I just found an almost new set of base carrier bars for my 2004 Passat Wagon at an estate sale. They were still in the original box, but the mounting instructions were missing.
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I have a 73 F100 with a 9" rear end. I need to replace the drivers side axle shaft as the bearing retainer is starting to slide off and I'm not willing to take a chance a new bearing and retainer will do it again. They are 31 spline axles and have the ball bearings not the tapered rollers.
What year trucks can I find a replacement axle shaft? Any other thing I should be aware of in finding a replacement?
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I own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
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I have a 03 Solara with the 1MZ that has had the engine replaced with a 02 camry 1MZ. I bought it as a project, and have everything worked out, but I've run into a problem that I need solving. The power steering adjustment bracket is different between the two cars, due to the T-belt tensioner it doesn't have a stud to mount it too. It has the tensioner at a angle, not straight up and down.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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I got the UR rear sway bar for my 2010 camry LE today, but it only has the bushing but doesn't include the bracket that secures the bushing? Is that OK can I reuse the OEM bracket? or did they not send me everything?
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