Camry :: 2004 - CEL - Timing Bit Off - Code P0016 After Stem Seal Replacement?
Jan 14, 2016
Had the stem seals replaced on my 2004 toyota camry 4 cylinder (2az-fe engine). The job went quickly and the realigned both camshaft marks to the respective yellow link and #1 and #2 bearing marks per the manual. However, now getting a P0016 error indicating timing is a bit off. It is difficult to verify that the top camshafts are aligned correctly to the crankshaft without taking off the side cover. Doing that is a 6 hour job and requires an engine lift.
Is there any easier, surefire way to check and adjust the timing on this engine without having to take off the side cover? It is probably just a tooth off since it is running well.
The attached pictures show how it was aligned before buttoning up.
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After timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
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So about six months ago I bought a used 2010 mkvi gti from a small dealer. Now here's my problem. The other day i started my car and it was a rough start. And the car ran rough. I stalled twice trying to back up. Then the car threw a light. I didnt drive it at all. Shut it off and left it. Read the code that night. P0016
Now I know the timing tensioner thing has been beaten to death. So that's my first thought. However, there was never a rattle or a noise. Nothing like that. Is it possible? All four cylinders have compression. About 210psi. I don't know if that is good or bad. Plugs are worn but look good enough. Not too much junk on them. Coil packs look "newer" and they are the "upgraded" versions. Other than the tensioner what else could cause a p0016 failt?
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I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
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My mechanic (also my Brother - certified dodge mechanic) says he might have put timing belt in backwards (as in the side that is supposed to be facing left, is facing right and vice versa). I dont want him to have to do the whole job over again unnecessarily.
I do have the codes P0016, P0018 (Camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor correlation) and of course a check engine light. Otherwise the vehicle is running great, no timing issues that I can notice.
This is a 2006 GX470 4.7L V8 2UZ-FE engine.
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Looking for the proper instructions in replacing timing belt and oil seal I have done this on a Honda accord before but I need to know how to properly align everything so I can do it right the first time.
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My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
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I have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
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2002 Montero sport 3.5V6 , Miles: 130,000. Bought recently drove home over 2 hour drive no issues, Recent work: Timing belt (preemptive). All Serpentine belts, PCV valve (after timing belt job I noticed oil in exhaust)It gave a P0506 code and idling at 500 rpm after the timing belt job, found some oil in exhaust. Got the PCV valve replaced. That solved the oil in exhaust issue, but the code has come back. Drives ok, no issues, no smoke.I am going to clean the throttle body and install new air filter, today and take it on a highway drive (clean oil residue from cat). I had the timing belt work done at a very trusted place, but this time their game was not so good. Boss on vacation, new location and their work was somewhat careless not their usual style.
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2001 Jetta GLX, 12v 2.8 VR6 Automatic, 157k miles.
Relevant Info: P0411 code, unknown if associated with my slightly rough idle and recently reduced mileage (down by 3-4 MPG). I see 2 N80 valves, one by the power steering reservoir and one behind the throttle body attached to the fire wall. I removed them both, got a tiny bit of what may have been charcoal out of the lower valve and tested both with a 9 volt battery. Both were closed with no power and open when I attached the battery. I cleared the code and it returns within 30 minutes.
Possibly irrelevant info:
Changed the timing chains 3 weeks ago and the code popped up just afterward. Prior to changing the chains, all I saw was a Cam Position Sensor code that is now clear. The slightly rough idle was present to a greater degree before chains were changed but has improved.
SAI solenoids look good but their little rubber hoses don't look fantastic. Could this contribute to the rough idle or is it not part of the vacuum system?
Ignition coil is new and all plug wires tested to about 6k ohms.
I've looked up other's experience with P0411's and have seen the list of possible causes. Wondering if I'm missing a possible cause, if I can test the system further without having to buy parts etc, if the reduced mpg's and rough idle are related...
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I have an 04 Limited, 6.0 PSD, 4x4 which I need to replace the front inner axle seals, the right side is leaking out the shaft. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos on how it is done but would like to get some first hand knowledge and recommendations.
First, how important is it to check the backlash before beginning the removal of the gear assembly? Do I need to remove the pinion gear as well or just the gear assembly?
How difficult is it to get everything back on place once the seals are replaced? I have not done this type of repair before and am concerned I might miss something.
I am planning to replace all the ball joints at this time also, this was the primary reason for this maintenance in the first place.
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I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
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I just had the timing belt (water pump and thermostat) replaced in my 2004 V8. I drove it home from the dealer (75 miles or so) without incident. Drove it to and from work (4 miles) without incident for a few days.
Last night I drove ~5 miles, idled in a parking lot for ~10 min and then drove another 5 miles and it overheated. Once I shut off the car it would not come back on. I waited for it to drop below 200C and it still didn't start. Electric consumers would come on all was well....but no start.
Car was towed to the local VW dealer who do not have a phaeton tech. After the hour and half it took for the tow truck to arrive and half an hour to tow it....it started up.
I am now thinking about my next move. As I read through everyone's overheating experiences they are mostly
1. Failed thermostat (which one? does the bottom thermostat control water pump operation?)
2. Fan issues
3. Air in the coolant line following a flush (could be, but I drove it home in the cold on the first day with the heater on)
4. False readings due to a bum (upper?) thermostat.
I have a VCDS but have not been able to get out to the car to give it a shot.
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The car is giving me P0016 and P0017 codes. I have read up on them, and it appears 17 could point to 16 being the culprit. Regular service, oil changes when the car says it is time. Vehicle has 90k miles. This is the 4 cyl engine. So, what am I most likely looking at? One or both sensors? Basically, is there a common problem associated with this vehicle and these codes that I can begin looking at?
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I have a 2006 Prius with over 300k miles. I recently started getting the crankshaft/cam position code P0016. The car is driving fine, but it does burn about a quart of oil every 800 miles. It looks like a lower mileage engine can be had for about $500-600 including freight. I'm thinking my best option is probably to swap out the engine. I saw our local resident expert Wong suggested replacing the transaxle too when doing an engine replacement since it does not add any significant labor and tends to be a more common source of problems than the engine. I'm not sure how much doing that would add to the bottom line.
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I have a mk4 r32 with 110,000 miles and I'm throwing a p0016 code witch I believe is cam position sensor my timing chains and guides were changed at 90k car runs good and if I erase the code it doesn't come on right away maybe every 200-500 miles:confused could this just be a bad cam sensor there is also no oil leaking from them and they are tight.
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P0016 - Crankshaft Position | Camshaft Position Correlation
Bank 1 Sensor A
2006 Passat - 3.6L V6
Here is my issue: I was lazy and waited a bit too long to get my oil changed. I finally did 3 days ago. I have been very busy so I decided to take it to a local mechanic to let them take care of it. They flushed the oil, ran other oil through it with a new oil filter, flushed that, then put in new synthetic oil with another new oil filter. They also replaced the air filter.
Everything was fine for 2 days.
Then, while I was driving in stop and go traffic, the "EPC" and "Engine Malfunction" lights came on. There was also a loss of power and the car seems to wait too long to shift gears.
So, I took it back to the mechanic who had it a few days prior. He pulled the code from it (posted at the top), and cleared the code from the car. That mechanic told me that I need a "cam position indicator sensor". He also claimed that what he did had nothing to do with this issue. I decided to check with the dealer. He cleared the code and I left. After clearing the code, the car drove fine for most of that day, then it returned.
I spoke with the VW dealership's shop manager and he said that he does not believe that is the issue at all and asked me to bring it in. He also mentioned a clogged oil line as being the potential culprit.
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My 06' Camry has 141k on it and when I start it up in the morning it smokes and I have been told it is the valve stem seals, and since I'm pretty handy with a wrench. I was wondering all the tools and steps there are to replacing them and if you actually have to take the head off or not?
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We have an 04 v8 phaeton. Hubby just changed timing belt with the blauparts top kit. He rented their tools. When he went to attach the bar it didnt line up. He finally got it all back together and it runs fine. The vag com scares me, though.
Those codes say...
- 16405 bank 2 camshaft a (intake) p0021-002 retard setpoint not reached (over advanced) mil
on and the other
- 16395 Bank 1 p0011-002 retard setpoint not reached over advanced mil on.
He just ran the scan today and we are leaving on a 1500 mile trip tomorrow. He says he knows it lined up right...im doubting it. We have driven it about 500 miles since he changed it...no problem. I don't want to risk damaging something. Would you take it on a trip with that code?
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Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
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I just wanted to post this due to the problem I was having with this code. I recently replaced a broken timing belt on my 2005 pt cruiser (non-turbo). Everything went back together, minus the hours trying to get the timing marks lined up by myself. After getting the engine buttoned up, the car would crank and idle, but only after 2000 rpm and the engine code P0016 would show up. I went back into the engine, reset the timing belt, and cranked it before putting everything back together. Worked fine, so buttoned it back up and took it for a test drive.
Bam, same engine code pops up again, only this time the car acted like it wanted to go into limp mode for half a second after driving for a few miles when I was turning around to come back to the house. It straightened up and drove fine. I could drive the car fine even after that, made a few test drives into town. The car would kind of fight limp mode after first cranking the car and accelerating, but then straighten up.
After a couple of months of research and talking to a friend who is a pretty good mechanic, I decided this was an electrical problem. I checked, and sure enough, after looking at the wiring at the cam shaft sensor connector, it was frayed. I spliced it and still had some issues with the code. I had just put a new sensor on it when the belt broke thinking it might be the sensor, so I put the old sensor back on it and now it runs fine, no more light. So, after months of thinking the timing or tone rings might be off, it was just a wiring/sensor issue.
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