Camry :: 2004 2.2L Automatic - No Acceleration When Cold / Low Accelerator Motor
Dec 29, 2013
I have a 2004 camry 2.2L with 97,000, automatic. Yesterday it would start but had no acceleration and CEL. SO towed it home and scaned and got P2101, which said low accelerator motor. SO I cleaned the throttle body and everything was good and reset code. This morning same thing happened...it is around 18 degrees outside. After it warmed up outside no problem and no CEL? WTF? Obviously I have a problem with the throttle body when it's cold. What to try next?
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My 2007 V6 failed me several times on very cold mornings. I start the car, wait about 1 minute and then drove it to a stop sign or red light (still cold). When the light turned green, I tried to proceed, but it was as if the car was in neutral. The car would not move. It was only after about 2-3 minutes, when the car started to warm up that I was able to get a gear. After 5-7 minutes, it was as if nothing happened. I have 97K on the car.
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So I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
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I've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
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I'm having a problem with acceleration on cold start. It's an auto transmission model. Car always hesitate and jerks a bit before accelerating. Also acceleration is slow.
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In driving my 2004 Toyota Highlander, fan blows hot and then cold on "cold" setting. Just hit 85,000 miles. Thermostat?
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I replace an AEB motor in my Passat(1998), but for some odd reason the shift screen is inactive and fail to engage. Fluids have been refilled, reverse light comes on, but no go.
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I have a 2007 Mazda 5 and over the past few days, I notice the acceleration seems slightly sluggish, especially on inclines. Then last night I had a problem where I was driving and whenever I took my foot off the accelerator, the car would stop (rather than gradually slowing). And when I put my foot back on the accelerator, the car jerked forward before finding the right speed. I parked and after work, it drove just fine. Drove fine this morning also. The shop says I need a new solenoid purge valve, but after reading about that valve, I don't understand how it could cause my problem. The car didn't stall whom it stopped, it just stopped moving forward.
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I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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I have 2008 vw passat 2.0t.. I want to know, if my passat has a range control adjustment motor for a automatic leveling the headlights or automatic headlights, how I can get to know if the car has a that feature inside of the headlights.
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My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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98 Rav4 (130,000 miles) starts fine, idles fine, runs fine for 30 seconds then the accelerator no longer has any effect. I can put the pedal to the floor, but there is no gas getting to the engine, it will idles but doesn't go. Until it warms up to operating temperature and then it is just fine.
This gets worse the more times I stop for an hour then try to go again - it is better when it is starting from being completely cold.
The check engine light does not come on, two different mechanics have tested it - no codes are produced - the computer thinks everything is just fine. One of the mechanics called his buddies at a Toyota garage in California but none of the 12 mechanics there could figure it out.
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About 2 months ago, the acceleration became very rough and grinding. The accelerator pedal used to feel smooth, but now feels as if I am driving over a rocky mountain path.
I upgraded from 87 - 91 octane (California), and while it did provide a very slight improvement in acceleration, the underlying issues remain.
I thought it might be the axle, but I read on this board that axle problems create a chirping noise, but I have not noticed any.
My Solara does not have any of the following issues:
1. No starting problems
2. Does not stall
3. Idle is fine (although more rough)
2004 Camry Solara....
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Noticed that when drive Sonata cold without having it warmed up and you hit the accelerator even a little bit that it 'jerks' back a bit? Once the car is warmed up you don't feel it anymore.
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my 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
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I have a 2004 Camry with what is the most odd noise I've ever heard. The noise sounds like a cross between water trickling over stones and maybe bearings rolling around in a tube, or maybe someone crinkling paper. It sounds like it is coming from inside the dashboard, or maybe just beyond the firewall in the engine compartment.
It tends to occur when the vehicle is stopped and is just starting to accelerate from a stop. It can also occur when the vehicle is breaking to a stop. It doesn't sound like break pads (not grinding metal-on-metal sound).
At a stop, I can shift the automatic transmission into neutral and rev the engine a little and the sound will occur, but it doesn't seem to be dependent on any specific RPM nor does it co-vary based on increases or decreases in RPM. Basically, when I rev, the sound simply occurs. It is of variable intensity and duration, and is very random in peak of volume and sequence of noises. If I didn't know better, I'd swear there was a chipmunk under the hood (I looked, there isn't.)
I drive the car daily, but my regular trip to work is very short so the car runs for no more than 5 minutes each morning. In a five minute drive, with 4 stop sign/lights, the noise will occur basically every time I accelerate.
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Is it a good deal to buy a 1.8t jetta with transmission problems. Won't go on reverse when the car is cold. 1500? mk4 vr6 .....
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Once again, my '94 Camry scared the bejeezus out of me, by reving out of control. I was driving a mountainous back road and all of a sudden the car was doing 40 mph on it's own. It was ROARING out of control so badly that I had to shut the car off in Drive. I would get out, pull the linkage back to an idle then start the car and, without touching the gas proceed on my way home. This kept up, until I had a very steep incline to go down. I kept the car in low, and kept touching the brakes. Then, I was smelling my brakes, and decided to just stop and, hopefully, someone would come by with some tools! And they did.......
To make a long story short, I got a 10mm wrench and took the cover off the box that (I think) holds the cruise control and throttle cables. It has sand and dirt all over the guides, springs, and throttle cables. I sprayed it with WD40, kept moving them, and it loosened up nicely. Then I drove the rest of the way home w/o incident.
THis morning, I cleaned all the oil and crud out and was going to blast it w/PB spray, and thought I would ask here if perhaps silicone would work better for me. I live on a dirt road, and there is always a lot of sand around that sticks to anything oily. Wouldn't silicone lubricate equally well, w/o the stickiness that all this sand and dirt sticks to????
(Oh, I checked and cleaned the throttle housing with an old toothbrush and carb cleaner too, but it was the cables in the covered box area that was the problem.)
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My problem is this: when I am driving and press the throttle hard from low rpm (anything under 2000-2500), the car will struggle to pick up rpm, and be incredibly sluggish to accelerate, until it reaches around 3500 rpm, at which points it returns to normal. Whilst it is struggling to accelerate, the exhaust sound is almost like a subaru, in that there is a series of small burp noises which stop once it returns to normal acceleration. It only whilst attempting to accelerate from low rpm that I have this problem, i.e. idle plus mod-high rpm is fine.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe (Automatic 3.3 v6 AWD). I have found the last few days (-20 C) where my gear shift will move into all gears (R, P, N and D) but the car wont move in Drive. R, N and P all work fine. It does seem as the car warms up everything's fine.
The light in the dash for D does not light up either when not working. What this might be?
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Earlier this year, I worked with my dealer to get a new automatic transmission for my 2007 Accent. I had only had the car for a couple months (purchased used, from my Grandmother who I knew, if anything, had probably been TOO gentle with it.) Only about 40,000km. I found the car extremely hesitant to shift on cool mornings, and allowing the engine to warm up first didn't make much difference. The 2-3 shift was especially late.
The last straw was when, on a frosty morning, the transmission failed to engage 3rd, bucked back out to find 2nd again, and then got 3rd on the next try. It did this a couple of mornings before I was done negotiating with the dealer, who ultimately agreed to supply a new transmission if I paid labour. This despite the car being just outside the 5-year powertrain warranty. I was quite satisfied.
So I enjoy the Summer with no problems -- only the barest hint of transmission "morning sickness", but only if I'm rushing it. I figure "that's an economy car for you". Now that cooler Fall weather has begun, I'm convinced that the new transmission behaves the same way as the first one. I haven't had the "bucking out of gear" problem yet, but the 2-3 shift is already a real dog on cool mornings.
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