Camry :: 2003 XLE V6 - Light On AC Button Blinks On And Off And It Blows Warm Air
May 15, 2014
I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
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My defrost button blinks for 25 seconds when I start the car. After it stops blinking the fan comes on but I won't defrost the front windshield, air only comes out the side vents.
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So, I was about to go get something in the garage yesterday and the car didn't open. I know one of the fobs has a bad battery. Well I got new batteries and replaced them in both fobs.
Red light blinks can't unlock when clicking the unlock button nor does the smart function work. I get the little key out and open the drivers seat and think Shouldn't there be some lights on in here like around the power button? or blinking?
Usually when you unlock with the little key should you be able to turn lights on inside the car?
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I have dismantled my trunk completely in order to install rear upgraded lights, as well as to install a new bumper to my kit. I have not put back the interior of the trunk yet. I went to let the top down so I could begin to remove the rear seat to do the mod to the subwoofer that a fellow forum member recommended and provided an instructional. But the top will not come down.
I was able to raise the top and the windows. But when I push the button to lower the top the red light to the switch blinks but nothing happens. My question, do I have to reassemble tyne trunk in order to lower the top. If that is the case how is everyone doing the woofer and amp work with the top lowered.
What I really want to do is lower the top partially so I can remove the rear sear set (top) so I can get to my subwoofer. Or maybe the seat can come out without lowering the top.
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Have a 2001 Prius going strong except for the ac. The button light blinks on the ac switch, and the compressor seems to shut off. But some times the ac works fine.
I brought it into the dealer and they said I need a new compressor.I think it's a temp sensor, otherwise, why is the ac nice and cold and can stay on for some period before going off.
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I kept my car more than 6 days in my garage and today I tried to start my car but, unfortunately smart key did not work. once i kept my hand under the door handle i can here a small click noise but it is not the usual noise and the turn light even did not flash, still the door is locked so i tired to unlock with the mechanical key. Then I enter to the car and i press the break paddle I heard a long motor noise as usual but this is bit longer noise. then i saw my smart key appears on the dash board but the car did not start up . again i tried to on the car I here a knocking noise and the green light on the power button blinks. I tried several times no luck. what will be the problem will it be 12v battery?
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I had a new compressor installed on '07 ES350 and now every now and then the AC button light blinks, the cool air shuts down and I get a message on the screen saying "Check Air Conditioner".
It only occurs occasionally --maybe not at all one day and two or three times another day. I returned to the shop that installed the compressor and they don't seem to know what is causing the problem. (They said maybe a freon overfill and adjusted that --but it's still occurring.)
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I have a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) that has an intermittent operating A/C unit. The blower will always work, however the cold A/C only operates intermittently, but the unit will continue to blow warm air half the time and cold air the other half of the time while in the cold mode.
I read that there is a relay fuse in the 5th Generation Camry, which sounds like my problem, however, I am not able to locate such a fuse in the 6th Gen Camry.
Could it be a relay fuse? Any other culprits? I would like to see if this is a problem that I can fix.
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I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
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My toyota remote starter works great. The problem is when i use the remote starter and then go to get in the car after it warms up the unlock button on the key will not work. i have to unlock the car manually by putting the key in the door. This only happens when use the remote starter. The unlock button on the key works no problem otherwise.
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My AC has been acting up. It blows real cold most of the time, but every now and then the clutch kicks out (even at highway speeds), and it blows warm. If I accelerate, the clutch engages, and it blows cold again. If I decelerate, it stays disengaged. At idle, it will do the same, sometimes cold, sometimes no clutch. I added a can of 134 last week, didn't make a difference. I hooked up the manifold gauges today, and the low side was 45psi, the high side was 160psi. I let a little freon out of the system until the low side read 35psi, but the high side went down to 150psi. If I'm correct, the low side should be between 30 - 40, the high side 225 - 250? Why I'm seeing 35 and 150???
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The air coming out the right front vents is cold; but, the air coming out the left front vents (driver's side) is warm. Sliding left ac slider switch up and down did no good. Considered fuse, but both left and right AC controls run through same fuse. Suspect bad motor for left side plenum duct, or bad connection, or faulty vacuum at motor (if motor is vacuum actuated). Considering removing dash cover to see if I can find the motor, but not sure how to remove dash cover, or even if that's the way to find the motor.
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2007 Camry ... I had some electrical issues changed alternator and battery. Resolved all other issues except my rear defrost light blinks on start up my rear defrost light blinks for 30 seconds the fan will not work until light quits blinking. Everything worked fine before I blew fuse. I have taken it into dealer to get diagnostic check and nothing shows on there computer. I have no heat and controls do not switch from floor defrost ect. Rear defrost does work. But I need heat and defrost to drive through the winter. I look goofy with window down and its 30 degrees out . Dealer said they had cleared all faults.
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My wife has 2012 Camry with 23K.
Right now the service engine soon light blinks as the car starts up. Is it a matter of dealer plugging something into clear code? What will the dealer want to service?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Camry that have a airbag light that stays on after I start my car and drive. However my passenger airbag stays off and the passenger seatbelt light blinks even when there's nobody sitting in the seat. When Someone does sit in the passenger seat with a seatbelt on, the light continues to blink along with the Airbag light showing off. How can I resolve this without going to the dealership?
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I'm parking the car (gen. 2) a long while, so I checked the manual which shows the deactivation button on/off positions. It show the button sticking out more = the off position. However, the car symbol still blinks on the dashboard.
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2001 f-150 XLT V6 auto.
176k miles & original engine/transmission.
What does this mean?
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We have a 2004 honda civic hybrid, and it is having shifting problems....the drive button blinks when it is in park, and then doesn't engage into drive or reverse. We have a code reader and 2 codes come up...po 700 and po 717. We originally replaced the transmission because those codes were coming up, but it still doesn't work and now we have these two codes. We have read that it could be a sensor...if so, how challenging is that to replace? This all happened when we had the car 1/2 sold. ZERO problems up until the sell day....so obviously we didn't sell it, but want to fix it so we can.
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I have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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I recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?
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