Camry :: 2003 XLE Car Wouldn't Idle - Bad Battery
Nov 3, 2012
Camry 2003 XLE. Stopped @ store yesterday turned off lights locked car. Came out lights on battery dead. Portable charger started it right up. Drove home 2 minutes shut off car started right up. Went to Advanced Auto they tested and said bad battery. Went to repair ship 2 get second opinion they ran test twice that said battery and charging system OK. Said corroded posts issue. They cleaned hooked battery up and car wouldn't idle. They ran test again now said both battery and alternator bad. They also checked computer for error codes and nada. Upon advice from Toyota dealer drove around for an hour and gradually was getting better. FYI car died at least 10 times when idling during drive but started right up. Parked car and left idling with AC, lights, etc all on. Checked a couple times still running. Went out 15 minutes later car off battery again dead.
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Stereo cut off, battery light came on, windshield wipers got week, car shut off and wouldn't turn back on. Jumped and immediately died, found blown etcs fuse, replace got vehicle home. The next day the stereo turned off again so I went to get new fuses and the car turned off again. Fuse wasn't blown, had battery and alternated checked and they've been tested as being fine. Ran diagnosis and got 2 codes related to pcv valve and throttle body which I'm assuming came from going into limp mode once I got 2 blocks from my house.
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2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
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I replaced the battery and the engine idle went from a reasonable 650 to 450 rpm's.
The engine is surprisingly smooth at that engine speed but the low idle speed makes it less smooth on take off from stop.
Right after the battery was installed one of the radio functions was backwards, AUX and CD were reversed, soon after it went back to normal.
Is there a way to reset the computer to stock, something makes me think this is the problem.
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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My 07 camry's battery died last week and I got it jumped, drove about a mile and while at idle it felt as if the alternator was not charging the battery and It was slowly dying. Took it to Tires Plus, they said the computer forgot how to idle, so it was misfiring and threatening to shut down at every idle. 80 dollars later...it was fixed, for a week.
This morning, my battery was dead again, again from leaving a power connection unscrewed that came from my fog lights attached to the battery in the car after cleaning it on sunday, called AAA. He said that I have to get a screw to screw it back in or it will die once I turn off the engine again.
I work at a construction plant so we have quite a few nuts and washers laying around. Well it had a rough idle again, on the way to work, lights would be bright then dim again and vibrating the car, like it's struggling to keep the power.
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Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
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Yesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
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I have a 2006 Prius with 115,000 miles that I've been having some problems with recently. Over the past 2 months the car wouldn't start 3 times. Once I jump it it runs fine for 2-3 weeks. This morning it happened again. Whole looking back on it every time seems it happen when the car doesn't run very long before I shut it off again.
Took it by dealer today and to ask them and setup a appointment. They think I have a battery going dead and he quoted it as $220 to replace. When I went to leave dealer the flashers blinked 2-3 times before it finally started. Done same thing when I got home. I also noticed when I locked the door that the red key light stayed on, instead of normal blinking. Went back out about 10 minutes later and it was blinking as normal.
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My battery went dead in my 2004 rx330. We tried jumping it but the horn continually went off and the ignition wouldn't acknowledge the key. We have replaced it and only the dash lights up, and locks work, but wont start...
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My 2013 has been problem free until this afternoon when I went to leave work - it simply wouldn't start, maybe a dead/low battery? It's a 2013 Prius II and just hit 40k this week and now due for service, so maybe I'll have them look into it?
Today was very hot around 100*, around noon I went to get something from passenger side and decided to crack the windows. Instead of going to the other side I reached across the console and pushed start which gets it into whatever mode it's called. Pushed the brake with a hand while pushed button again to turn on and operate window controls. Then I pushed start again to turn car off, which turned off display as normal. When I went to start it 5 hours later I got nothing.
No dash light up, dim dome light, door open light was on with door open so I knew there was some measure of power, I think I saw a check engine light near the door open light lit up at some point in my attempts too. I popped hood open to see where the battery was at, lol, it's not in the engine bay. In my frustration I finally started noticing a "buzz" sound of some part in the engine bay. Tried to figure out what it was - all I know is it's mounted on the firewall in front of driver, about knee height, behind/below the brake and power steering reservoir. I was kinda able to get my hand far enough to confirm it was buzzing/moving/active by touching a finger to it. Was able to get it to turn off with sever pushes of the start button - maybe the car was cycling the different "on" modes without turning on?
So I decided to try and jump the car. Friend who's borrowing a car luckily had jumpers - the weirdest looking jumpers I've ever seen. They were thinner gauge and super flexible, they were also two separate strands instead of being connected like normal jumpers. Anyways, I got nothing out of it. Was about to give up when someone id called showed up - used their jumpers thinking maybe the weird ones were bad. Immediately got a spark when I put the negative on the strut bolt, confirming I had juice.
Prius started immediately as "normal" (no idea how a hybrid starts after a jump...). Stereo was working, headlights, dome lights, windows - basically like nothing happened. I did notice the battery indication was a little lower than normal, but still had just below 1/2 bars. If it were low I'd imagine it would be lower. It never gets above 3/4 bars for me unless I'm coasting down a mountain for a while.
Dead/low 12v battery? What's the part that was buzzing?
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Yesterday as soon as I started my car, I noticed a high pitched whining noise. As I drove, it seemed to stop, but as I slowed down and idled, it came back. After driving a couple miles, the battery light came on, so I turned off the AC, radio, and lights and it went off again, but as I sat at stop lights it would flicker on and off again.
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My wife's 2010 RX350 wouldn't start this morning. My guess is that the battery drained overnight with the back door ajar. After getting it started with a battery jump the rear hatch would not open by hand, the dash button or the key button. After driving and charging the battery the hatch would open. I'd this to be expected or an indication that perhaps the hatch has a fault?
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I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee (115,000) and a 15 month old battery that failed. Gauges read fine, but when I tried to start car when key turned, it was clicking. I turned key off, it kept clicking. I took key out of ignition and it continued to click for about 15+ minutes. During this time I stuck key back in and turned key on (all while still clicking) and my needles on gauges were going crazy back and forth. When I turned the key as if to start, the needles on the gauges went BEYOND their normal scope. Almost a Linda Blair effect. Battery was replaced, alternator check was good and it started up perfectly and immediately. Now, a few days later, it labors a bit before starting. How do I diagnose and electrical problem? By the way, the gauges all the while read straight up and down normal.
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My battery light come on this morning. The volt meter is sitting right where it always has though. I noticed that the battery light is kind of pulsating with rpm and at idle its very very dim.
E99 F-250 PSD ....
Where should I start?
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Have an 03 Camry 4 cyl. That is my wife's car.
She reported nothing wrong yesterday but this am does not start. I can hear the starter humming but does not turn over. My charger shows battery at 100% but I suppose could still be the culprit. Going to have it load tested to find out for sure.
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I have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
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I bought a 2005 camry at an estate sale last week. The serpentine belt was broken and guy running sale said the car set for 4 months and they jumped it off to start and it started and then died and wouldn't start. So I had it towed to my house. changed the water pump, idler tensioner, and new belt and now the car wont start. turns over good. so i changed plugs and still not starting. I will pull one plug in the morning and see if I'm getting spark. If not what would be next step.
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I have a 2002 Camry that has been having a tough time starting in the mornings over the last couple weeks. Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over at all. My battery is pretty old, so I just presumed this was the issue. I went and got a new battery and put it in, but still not starting. In fact, the car isn't even turning over at all (no clicking sound that I associate with lack of voltage from the battery). The car just makes a faint "whinning" noise.
All the electronics/lights in the car are working and when I turn the car on the check engine light, abs light, etc turn on. Doing a little searching online, I found that when I turn the ignition from "on" to "start" the headlights should dim and all of the interior lights (check engine, ABS, etc) should go off. They are not going off or dimming, but I'm not sure exactly what this is indicative of? Is this lack of headlight dimming/interior lights going off a tell-tale sign of something ("that is for sure the starter")?
Should I pull the starter and take it in to an Auto Zone type shop for testing, or is there something else I should be looking at first?
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I have a 2003 camry 4 cyl Idle seems to be a little low. What it should idle at with ac on.
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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