Working on my buddys 2003 camry, wont start, has air and spark and not getting fuel. replaced fuel pump already. If you hit it with a quite a bit of starting fluid it will fire up for a few moments and then die out, its got half tank of gas. The whole start of this is he ran out of gas and since then wont start.
View 7 RepliesI brought the car home last night and shut it off. This morning went out and engine will crank but doesn't show any signs of fuel or spark. Removed one plug and grounded it to block while someone cranked it. No spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder just to see if I could get it to cough or something, but nothing. I tried looking for blown fuses under hood and under dash but I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I pulled out all relays and tapped them and reinstalled. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset ecu and that didn't work either. There are some relays marked that I don't recognize.
View 12 RepliesI drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 V6 Camry SE with only 80,000 original miles. This morning (3am) on High ran low on fuel. I was about 25 miles from a gas station running at ~75mph when low fuel light came on.
About 5 miles from the station I felt a barely perceptible, split second hesitation (like a miss) and then things continued to run fine. The Check Engine and Traction control lights lit a minute or so later.
I was able to make to gas station but had to be on fumes the last 5 miles.I gassed up and resumed trip - 200 more miles. Both lights stayed lit. Stopped twice more. Light stayed on.
Pulled into town this morning and went to Autozone. They scanned car and pulled P0015 camshaft code. To my knowledge the guy DID NOT reset code.
I got into car to drive away and CEL was out. Have start stopped twice more and drive ~50 more miles with no CEL. Is it likely this was caused by running low on fuel?
My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
View 2 Repliesi have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
View 1 RepliesAfter replacing the intake manifold gasket for the second time, the truck would not start. Thought for sure it was my putting the distributor in wrong. After reviewing the forums, I am sure it is installed correctly. I have spark but no start. Engine cranks over nicely, but acts like it needs fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge, turned on the key and get 56PSI. Lower than the 60 required. The pressure then slowly goes to 50 PSI. I pinched off the return hose and had the same readings. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there anything else I need to check. I replaced the fuel pump a couple years ago with a Delphi unit. Maybe this is just a weak link for these trucks. My truck has a little over 100,000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a perplexing problem and I'm at wits end trying to figure it out. I have an 03 GTI 1.8t 20th. The car has been running great until today when I replaced a few bolts with the front bumper and replaced a motor mount bolt on the passenger side mount. Everything was great until I did the work on it. I figured I had bumped the cam position sensor so I swapped it out for a new one and nothing still. I have verified I have spark and I definitely have fuel as it keeps drenching the spark plugs. I have cleaned the spark plugs and tried starting only for the car to violently sputter and misfire. No codes are being recorded and nothing else has been touched.
View 9 RepliesFreshly rebuilt 2.8 V6
Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.
The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.
I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.
I have VAG-COM and there are no fault codes. I have checked all fuses and they are good. If I do the tests on VAG-COM I can make the injectors cycle, but they don't cycle when cranking. I tested the crank position sensor (and tried a new one) and it tested good (and the new one made no difference). Using VAG-COM, I confirmed that it does sense the engine RPM when cranking. The battery voltage stays above 12V during cranking as well.
A couple other tidbits of info:
The fuel pump does work (and comes on when cranking... confirmed by disconnecting the hose and pumping fuel into a can)
When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)
The Check engine light and EPC light come on when the key is put in the on position and turn off during cranking (like they should)
The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.
After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?
I have 06 F150 5.4L with a no start condition. The truck comes from another shop with no improvement. This is whats done so far, replaced plugs, checked the fuel control module 100% ok, we have fuel pressure at the rail, we have injector pulse ( niod light ), we have spark and we have a good battery. We tore down the timing cover because of the sound of the engine turning over like it was out of time when cranking.
We did find a tensioner totally destroyed so we replaced the timing as put it back together and replaced the oil pressure switch because we get this "low oil pressure" in the info center every time, we also get gray/black puffs of smoke out the tailpipe when turning over. So to sum it up we have spark, fuel, and battery and still nothing! We even flashed the ECU and still no fire/no start.
The truck just quit having any throttle control which seemed to be ignition. Way old stuff needed replacing so I went after that. Installed complete new distributer, coil and spark control module. No good. Found spark using checker but not sure what this should really look like. While checking compression found a lot of fuel coming out of number 6 cylinder and nothing out of any of the others. Compression in all cylinders is around 120. Distributor timing at number 1 TDC looks good. I am thinking some fuel system related issue but cannot figure out why so much fuel comes out of the number 6 cylinder.
View 3 RepliesWas driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
View 2 RepliesSons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
View 7 Repliesi have a 1999 rodeo the fuel gauge will drop to empty when you start the vehicle. the warning light will flash. than as you drive the fuel level will return to normal. the dealer says this is a regular problem and he has replaced at least 12 of then this year. i have called isuzu about this problem and they say they know nothing about this and i should have the problem checked out at my local dealership. i guess my question is do i really have to replace the $350 fuel pump.
View 14 RepliesI've replaced the fuel pump, relay, drive module, and the filter. The fuel pump still refuses to switch on when I go to start the vehicle.
View 9 RepliesI was checking my COPs and the first one I pulled out of my 2002 f150 5.4l had a clearish liquid on the coil boot. I looked down in the spark plug hole and it was filled almost to the top of the spark plug itself. I smelled it and it smelled like gas. Why this would happen and what should be done to fix it?
View 3 RepliesMy son has a 09 Vibe 1.8L automatic and it won't start. Among other things, I also I want to check to see if it has spark and fuel pressure.
First of all, can I check for spark by looking at the signals into the coil packs? I realize that this won't actually tell me if there is spark at the plugs, but I'd like to know if the ECU is commanding spark or not. One of the coil packs was replaced a couple of months ago, so I'm fairly confident that it is OK. And it's hard to believe that all of the rest of them would suddenly have a problem.
As far as the fuel pressure is concerned, I don't see a valve on the fuel rail to connect a standard fuel pressure gauge. I'm assuming that I need to some how tap a gauge into the rubber supply line, prior to the metal line going to the fuel rail, but I'm not sure this is the recommended way.
'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
View 10 RepliesMy Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
94 camry. 4 cylinder. Coil is located on the strut housing along with the ignitor. The car was running, but overheating.
The last time it ran, it overheated badly, but was parked right away. Fans never came on.
The radiator was leaking, so that was replaced. And since the fans hadn't come on, the temp sensor for the fans, in the bottom of the rad was also replaced.
Now it won't start. It cranks over nicely, and acts like it is missing spark or fuel.
It has spark. Determined by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and checking there.
I used spray starting fluid by pulling the tube from the end of the throttle body and spraying in there. The spray starting fluid should have at least caused a cough or two, if not a short start and run then die... if fuel delivery was the problem.
I have tried it with the temp switch on the manifold connected, and then disconnected. Also tried jumping that connector, so I don't think that temp switch is the problem. (It's the temp switch that has the green connector.)
I am assuming the ignitor and coil are good, otherwise I would not be getting a spark from there.
At least once a week key locks up and won't push in to start vehicle. Dealer service stated this is a security issue when you bump into the steering wheel it locks up, told me to move steering wheel. It did start after doing this. This is happening at least once a week and I should not have to move the steering wheel every time. It is frustrating since the vehicle is 3 months old. Tried all keys, even valet key, nothing works, until I move the steering wheel.
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