Today my camry suddenly won't shift to 4th gear, so at low speeds, up to 40 mph, rpm reads 1.7 to 2, if i try to accelerate faster, the rpm goes up until 4.5 maybe at around 70 mph, poor acceleration and the driving feels heavy and unnatural.
I replaced the engine mounts a couple of weeks ago after waiting for about a year to do that, not sure if the two things are connected.
On a '03 Solara, I've got this code. It designates Shift Solenoid Performance (stuck off) for the S4 valve. It makes sense because the trans won't shift into 4th gear in normal conditions.
But I was wondering what the likelihood of the transmission speed sensor set this code by giving a faulty reading that was too slow. The car seems like it is going somewhat faster than the speedometer is reading. RPMs are over 3000 at 50 mph. Seems like I'm doing 60-65. I wonder if the ECM is not commanding the 3-4 shift because it 'thinks' the car has not reached the required speed?
Or possibly the button on the shifter is simply malfunctioning. The indicator light on the dash comes on if the button is pushed, and goes out when you push it again. I'm not familiar with what the normal RPM would be at highway cruising. It's a 4 cyl with 169,400 miles. Would torque converter clutch be more likely to fail than the shift solenoids on these cars?
My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
Our 2005 SE 4-cyl Camry has a rough shift going most likely from 2nd to 3rd gear @ around 27-30 mph. I always notice it when we come to a specific stop near our Volleyball facility. We come to a stop, it's a residential area so no need for fast acceleration, but it's almost like clock work when it happens. Like it's not going to engage, and then it does and it kind of jerks the car somewhat. Fluid is fine and also Trans was serviced at Toyota.
View 7 RepliesMy 2002 Camry has an automatic transmission that works fine except when it is about 20 degrees or colder. The problem is that the transmission does not want to shift from first to second gear. After about ten minutes things shift normally. Other than that I have had no issues with the transmission.
View 3 RepliesWe just got a 2008 4Cyl with the 5spd auto. Only had it two weeks. When driving 35-45mph, the tranny will shift up into 5th gear and then basically STAY there. As we approach a slight upward grade, the tachometer is stuck at 1200 RPM and the whole car shudders and vibrates as the engine "lugs" down. We find ourselves constantly playing with the gas pedal in order to FORCE the tranny to downshift.
Took it to dealer. They experienced same thing. They said it was "Normal for this model - at this time". They quietly told me they are getting other complaints and look forward to Toyota releasing new programming for the ECU. Three different drivers and rear passengers have quickly remarked about this "sensation" when going up any grade.
We experience this constantly driving here in Maine. Interstate and inner city driving is fine. If we move the gated shifter to "4" - it resolves this problem. Dealer said this is normal. So I actually purchased a "manual" automatic transmission?? Do we just stop whining and retrain ourselves or do you folks think we can look forward to a solution?Our 2004 Camry, 2002 Tundra and our 1999 Solara had wonderful transmissions.
I have a 2004 Toyota Camry, automatic trans, 172k miles, still in great shape and has been well cared for with standard preventative maintenance. When it's cold (<30F), the transmission will not shift out of 2nd or 3rd gear, can't tell which. It reaches about 40mph before the RPMs approach 3000, and I dare not push it harder. Let the car warm up or drive it for 5 minutes and everything is fine. This has happened the last two winters. The car runs great other than this, which means there is no apparent problem 8 months of the year. I had the transmission fluid flushed and filter changed last year thinking it may improve, but there was no change. What could be the culprit?
View 17 RepliesIn my 2004 Camry the lights for the gear shift selector and fan speed and temperature dial are out. Is this a common light source or fuse that controls these lights?
View 1 RepliesThis morning my 2011 Camry LE won't start. Based on looking at car manual I think the 'Engine Immobilizer System' is still engaged and perhaps not recognizing my key, neither of them since I tried the spare as well. The instrument panel stays black and I can not turn the key or even move the gear shift into Neutral.
Any way to fix this without calling for a tow? So.... found out the problem! The steering wheel was angled slightly. With key in the ignition we jerked the steering wheel slightly and it released the ignition and was able to start.
My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
View 5 RepliesWhy my car is grinding gear when I shift from 1st to 2nd, & yes the clutch is fully depleted and still grinds when I shift.
View 4 RepliesJust bought this car yesterday. test drive went fine with no issues. Started driving it home and the check engine light came on ( no big deal i thought car runs great). I go to advance auto and their scanner won't hook up to it. So i start looking at the fuses and everything was good except it was missing the the number 7 fuse ( reverse lights/speedometer sensor), so i replaced the fuse. i get home and i decide to take it down the road one more time and it all went down hill quick. EPC light came on, the car wont shift out of first gear (automatic). so i let it sit over night with the number 7 fuse out and the battery disconnected. CEL never disappeared this morning and its do the same thing. It looks like the MAF was just replaced and the brake light switch looks like the newer green version. Im going to replace the brake light switch this afternoon and i already cleaned the MAF. Another thing that i noticed that is very strange is now the Foot symbol by the shifter has gone out. The one on the dash still is working properly but the one at the shifter does not light up at all now.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L Supercrew that won't seem to shift out of 1st gear. This morning coming out of stop light on the way to work, the truck seemed to jerk when it was supposed to shift into 2nd gear. I was told by a friend that the speed sensor may be it?
So I took the truck around the block just so I can get a feel for what is going on. So the truck shifts into 2nd, but not past that. It seems that around 30mph the RPM's go up jump up quickly to 2k+ and no shift or increase in speed. I was reading up a bit on it and came across the possibility of a TPS?
I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is choking and/or almost stalling out when I shift usually from 1st to 2nd gear, but also sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It usually happens after I've driven it for about 20 minutes upon coming to a stop (intersection/stop sign). When I finally go, I push on the accelerator but it feels like no gas is being pumped through with a loss of power. I repeatedly push on the accelerator until it finally kicks over and power is restored. My check engine light is on and I've had the diagnostics read from local parts stores and mechanics and no one can narrow it down. My mechanic said that it sounds like the valves were sticking but can't narrow it down to one thing without ripping apart the engine and going in deep, which would be expensive, but also not as expensive as a dealership.
View 4 RepliesWhile a friend was using my 2003 Nissan Sentra evidently a child spilled a sugary drink onto the gear shift console without my friend realizing it. The car sat for 2 weeks in the Sept. heat. When I drove it for the first time, I noticed a grinding sensation when I put the gear shift into reverse and park. The other settings were normal. Do I need to have it checked out, or will the motion of using the gear shift eventually wear away the sticky mess that obviously is in there? My husband didn't notice a thing, but it is my car and he very seldom drives it.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 made a sharp mechanical noise one day, next thing I knew it lost the ability to shift out of 2nd gear....Now, it can still shift into 2nd gear when cold, but only after holding rpm for a bit and then suddenly jerking into 2nd gear. Once it's warmed up for a few minutes though, after dropping out of 2nd gear, that's it! Then it's stuck in 1st gear the rest of the time. Reverse doesn't work anymore at any time, and it gave me code P0732 to P0734 which should be gears 2 - 4. Is it possible that not being to get out of 1st means 2nd gear is broken, but the other 2 are okay and it just can't get shift past 2nd? Or might all 3 have problems after all?
View 1 RepliesEverything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
View 8 RepliesAt work we bought a 2003 F-250 at an online auction. I was driving it home, and when it shifts into fourth gear, (overdrive) a vibration develops. When I pushed the overdrive lockout on the gear selector and it downshifts to 3rd the vibration pretty much goes away. Turn OD back on and it upshifts and the vibration is back. The transmission seems to shift through all the gears really good / smoothly and is glass smooth when you go from Reverse to Drive. What could this be; fourth gear going out, sticking valve in the tranny, drive shaft off balance? Just not sure where to start on this one.
View 1 RepliesI have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
2003 Ford Exploreer 4x4 5R55W Auto Tranny. From driving the car it does not shift into 2nd or 5th gear. The O/D light flashes, and the check engine light comes on. Gives Code P0775, which indicates a problem with Solenoid 2.
This weekend I changed the Shift Solenoid Pack with a brand new one from Ford, and the exact same problems still exist. It's as if I hadn't done anything to the car. I have read somewhere that 2nd and 5th gears share a band in the tranny, could the the problem.?
2003 3.0 FFV 5 speed automatic...... Just noticed recently that it seems slow to go into 2nd gear.....the rest of the shifts seem fine, firm and unchanged.....
View 4 Replies