Camry :: 2003 V6 Stalls At Stops Randomly / RPMs Drop And Then It Revs Up
Jun 7, 2016
I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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I have a 98 1.8t TIP and this problem just started happening when I slow down to stop the rpm's drop and it almost dies but it catches it self and the needle bounces a few times and it is fine after that.
Also when I start the car the rpms bounce like three or four times but it again, catches itself and its fine after that... until i want to come to a stop again.. I live in the city and its a lot of stop and go.
Also when i slow down it feels like my car slams into first gear. it shift perfectly every other time up and down, only when it goes into first it hits hard and scares me cause I don't want anything to go wrong.
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1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
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I own a 2001 Ford Explorer and have had the regular wear and tear but this problem has me stumped. A few months back I had to change the auto body gasket because the truck would not go into gear. After doing this the truck ran fine, I also changed the tranny fuild and filter. The other day i went to back up into the garage and the truck stalled and died out. it started right back up and it runs fine in all other gears. (P,N, D, 1,2, 4x4 high and low) and the over drive is working fine. when the truck is cool and hasn't ran in a while i can start it and the rpms stay at about 1000 th 1200 and the reverse works great. Now when the eng. heats up to normal and i put in in reverse the rpms drop to about 4 to 500 and it stalls out and dies. I have cleaned the mass air flow sensor, the throttle body, and the IAC valve but still dying out. Im thinking it may be a vaccume leak or the IAC is bad and cleaning just wont do the trick. I have also read that it may be the back up light wiring that hooks to the tranny may be shorted out.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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I purchased a 92 Lumina Euro with a 3.1 and 101,400 miles on it a little over two weeks ago. It has been having problems since I got it.
It stalls intermittently, typically after I drive to work, shut it off for two hours, and then start it to go to my next client(home health aid) sometimes it stalls right after starting it then, and/or sometimes when put in reverse and/or drive and occasionally at stops signs after the aforementioned problems occur. It has also stalled out twice after highway driving after the car is shut off and started shortly afterwards, for instance, when I ran into a tobacco store for some cigs.. After the problem occurs it usually drives ok if I continue to drive it awhile even if I shut it off for a short time and restart.. I added some fuel injector cleaner when I filled the tank but it didn't work.
After about a week of the stalling issues the car refused to start after dying and didn't start for two or three days. As I was unable to get an answer from the dealer my step-father, who went with me when I bought the car, called him and he said if I could get the car there he would fix it. So I borrowed a bundle to have it towed the 25 miles or so to the small town car lot.
His mechanic supposedly fixed it by replacing the TPS and the dealer informed me that they had cleaned the throttle body before I bought it and apparently the TPS needed replaced to. However the issues again started after one day of it running fine. I tired to get a hold of this guy again and again I get the voice mail and no return call so as soon as I got off work I drove it over there and again he said he would fix it. He had it for three days and I again tried to get a hold of him without success and he again answered the phone for my step-dad and told him they had ordered some kind of module that would be in Monday. So Wednesday he calls me and tells me that they didn't replace this module because when they took it out it tested good five times but they noticed some gunk build up at the contacts of the wires that hook to the module and now the car was fixed. Why did they order the part before testing??? This doesn't make sense so it throws doubt on what the man said. I went to get the car and when I got back to my town and went to get those cigs it died twice after restart and put into reverse. That was two days ago and it has been dying once or twice each day since then although it is somewhat better than before as it isn't taking as long for the idle to even out at sufficient rpms after I throttle it at idle or drive awhile. BUT now it seems to be sucking the gas hard and I am wondering if this guy just did some jerry-rigging because he sure isn't fixing it.
A few more details. The rpms drop rapidly when this occurs, it has a couple of times had a rough idle at the same time but more often the rpms drop and it dies.Sometimes if I use the throttle and keep it up around 1000 rpms for a short time it won't die. I have smelt a burnt smell a couple times when I shut the car off, like electric burnt, not oil burnt or stinky exhaust. Lets see, I felt a very brief loss of power feeling when driving on the highway on two different occasions, so brief that it was barely discernable. It runs over the halfway point on the temp gauge after driving awhile in town, seems a little hot to me but I read these cars don't kick on the fan till 220. Sometimes the rpm bobs a little up and down at idle and slow speeds and once the battery power dropped and popped right back up when it was idling funny and when it had that no start an acquaintance tested it by putting a screwdriver in a plug wire and pointing it towards the engine as I cranked it and he said it had no spark and it did crank every time I tried to start it during the no-start condition. It has also done a bit of surging from time to time when the prob happens. The car is recovering from the stall condition quicker than it did before since this last "fix" but still stalling.
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I have a 1983 Honda Accord (manual with nearly 200,000 miles) when rolling to a stop or at a stop rpms drop below 1000 and it stalls out. I can start it back up without hesitation.No hesitation at initial startup or after sitting short or long time, it idles while in park rpms about 1000.When I feel the engine about to stall while rolling to a stop or at stop, if I put my left foot on the brake pedal, slightly step on the gas pedal with my right foot it prevents the engine from stalling. At stop if I put in park, rpms raise and don’t need to give it gas.
I'm unable [& unqualified] to work on my car. Given I drive only about 1,000 mi year; my alternate form of transportation is a bus or kindness of friends, I’m on a limited income, cannot afford to buy/ spend more than 2,000 -- my question if 2-foId, 1. is it possible that something it is nothing major and worth repairing/replacing (ex. air control/idle air bypass valve, a dirty throttle body or even carburetor)?2. Or, as discussed with one mechanic, since the car is 33 years old, during or soon after repair other problems (dried out vacuum hoses or major) will follow. Plus, parts can be difficult if not impossible to replace as a I spoke to mechanic pointed out.Given the car’s age is it worth repairing?
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Hot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
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So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
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My Galant is having the above problem. I am providing some details (below) related to the problem: a) Check engine light was on. I took to a repair shop. The code was non specific. They did engine tune-up. The problem was not fixed. b) I took to Mitsubishi. They could not find any specific problem. They recommended changing CAM sensor. After replacement, problem still remains. c) Recently the car doesn't want to start. Check engine light is gone. Revving is still there at start and during stops. d) I have noticed some of the coolant splashing out to the adjacent tubing during driving. The coolant chamber is empty. But the engine heating indicator is in the middle.
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2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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I have a 2003 Ford Escort ZX2. Recently, I've begun to notice issues with the RPM. When I'm not actually giving it gas, such as idling or coasting in neutral, I notice that one of four things start happening:
1) the car stalls outright,
2) the RPM drops from 1000 to around 500 and stays,
3) drops to 500ish then recovers after a few seconds, or
4) acts normal.
Which one is completely random. I am getting OBD codes p0171 and p0420, which points towards either oxygen sensors or the catalytic converter. However, I've been told that it might be the idle air control valve too. Which seems more/less likely? I don't have a lot of money to commit to repairs at the moment, so I am leery of playing trial and error.
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I have a 1999 Camry. I just spent $1250 (half of it borrowed) to have some basic maintenance, diagnosis, and serious repair work done. More than half of the serious (translate: expensive) work involved replacing a charcoal canister and installing a thermostat. The check engine light had been on for at least 10 years. And I had a gas pumping problem by way of the pump shutting off after only pumping a few cents worth of gas. Needless to say it was a royal PIA to fuel up my car. As far as the check engine light, a friend would clear the code so I could have it inspected.
Then more than 2 years a shop took out my thermostat because a hose had sprung a leak and they rigged up a temporary hose until they could order the part. I never went back because I couldn't afford it. I know it wouldn't have been a terribly expensive repair, but at the time it was more than I could afford. So for almost 3 years I have driven with out a thermostat and also couldn't get it inspected.
Fortunately I was finally able to get the necessary repair on my car--replacing the charcoal canister and thermostat--so that it could be inspected. I picked the car up yesterday and everything felt fine and the car ran fine.
Today I drove it about 12 miles from my home, made 3 back-to-back errand stops of not more than 15-20 minutes each and everything seemed fine. Nothing felt or sounded out of the ordinary. Then when I was leaving my 3rd stop, the car would not start unless I gave it gas. And it wouldn't stay started unless I gave it gas. In other words, the car would go, but as soon as I would take my foot off the gas to press the brake to put it in gear, the engine would die. There was no problem restarting it as long as I gave it gas, but I could not let off the accelerator at all or it would immediately die.
The car would go just fine, but if I let off the gas for any reason, even if I was driving 40 miles an hour on the street and let up completely off on the accelerator, the rpms would immediately drop to 0 and the engine would immediately die---no noise, no shuttering, no nothing---just die. This problem occurred almost the whole 12 miles back to my home. Then when I got about a mile and a half away, it went back to behaving completely normal and did not die when I let off the gas.
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I have a 98 F-150 that just went under a trans rebuild. It now will NOT shift from 1st to 2nd. It revs up to 3200rpm's, shifts to 2nd then chirps the tires as it immediately slams back to 1st. Is it possibly a solenoid issue? Looking for some useful info.
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
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Two weeks ago Sun, truck ran fine, however Mon morning all hell broke loose. Truck was running very sluggish and stalling while coming to a stop. My first thought was tune up. I replaced the plugs and wires. During this I found that i could not get a socket around the ever loved driver side rear plug so i was only able to replace 7 plugs however in that process i managed to break the metal coolant tube that runs to the heater core.
Aday later replaced the entire intake manifold,egr valve, egr tube, IAC valve, both coil packs, fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter. During the removal of the intake i looked at the rear spark plug and found that a screw had been wedged into the hole breaking the plug and got it changed now it is all back together and the truck runs amazing however did not solve the low rpms during stopping. ive replace the above and checked fuel pressure which is good.
I have a TPS sensor just haven't installed it yet not sure if it is related to the issue. Tranny guy says it may be a bad solenoid or TC however last night I reset the PCM and drove it it ran flawless. this morning the problem returned which leads me to believe its not the tranny. ok one last kicker that 6 experts have failed to answer when i manually put the truck into 2nd gear the engine dies! no studder no fighting just quits.
Truck is a 98 F150 4.6 V8 186,000 miles i have yet to
1) change TPS.
2) clean throttle body.
3) clean MAF sensor. n
Not sure if any of this has an effect on the issue. There is only a EGR insufficient Air flow code..
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I have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
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I have a 2003 GMC Envoy I6 4.2L. When driving above 50 after vehicle has warmed up it will drop rpm's by 300-500 and they go back up. This happens for several minutes at a time. It did it for over 20 minutes last night while driving home. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body this morning (removed to clean) because in my researching for the solution it seemed that was the answer. Also left battery disconnected the entire time to allow computer to reset itself for clean TB. Took it for test drive and after about 10 minutes of driving it started doing the same thing. Took it to autozone to see if maybe they could pull a code even though there is no SEL on at the moment, but nothing came up. I am dreading if it's in drivetrain, i have only had the vehicle for about a week and a half. Bought it used from a private seller and it drove home fine the day i bought it and a couple days after, but now it's gotten worse than when it first started.
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