Camry :: 2003 V6 Not Even Attempting To Start
Feb 24, 2016
My wife has a 2003 v6 Camry. Two weeks ago her car quit starting. The lights all worked, but the starter wouldn't even click. I tried jumping and cleaning the terminals to no avail, so we took it to a shop.
The mechanic said the battery was completely "dry." He installed a new battery, and the car has worked fine for the past two weeks. Now, she is having the exact same issues.
Update : the mechanic said it was a bad battery, so he replaced it. The same thing happened, and we had it towed back to him. He then said it was the starter, so he replaced that, and the car just died again today.
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2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
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After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
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04 excursion 6.0 auto. New batteries a month ago. New alternator (New Bosch) 6 months ago. Charging system shows 12-13 volts on scan gauge with engine off, 14 with engine running. Drops to 10 or 11 while actually engaging starter.
Every once in a while, often when the engine is hot (in fact I can't ever remember this happening when it's cold) the solenoid clicks like it would when the battery is dead. So far, it does this while it's actually engaging the starter, so I hear the solenoid clicking under the hood while I hear the whir of the starter under the floor board.
Never had this happen before. Not sure what part is trying to tell me it's on its way out? Heat soaked starters are harder to start, or less powerful, or something, right?
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Year: 1999Make: Chevrolet
Model: Silverado 1500 LS
Issue: Bad Transfer Case
Late model 99 Chevrolet Sliverado 4x4 with push button transfer case. At the end of last winter the transfer case began a grinding-noise when attempting to go from 2H to 4H.
I have a great mechanic who has proven both his skill and honesty to me a few times now. I took the truck in for diagnosis. His hope was that the electronic transfer may be faulty but unfortunately found metal shavings when he went to check the lubricant in the transfer case.
Diagnosis: Bad Transfer Case - Replacement necessary.
Mechanic has recommended a salvaged transfer case from reputable salvage dealer.
I have sourced a rebuilt transfer case with manufacturer warranties from a "major parts chain" for approximately 1/3 more cost.
My debate: The truck (while very late model), has a rebuilt engine that has less than 50k miles on the rebuild. I have expectations that I will continue to drive and maintain this truck for a very long time.
Although I am always aligned with less cost, my first response is that the rebuild from "major parts chain" is warrantied and far less likely to require a replacement in the remaining life of the vehicle.
However I am also uncertain how to evaluate the existing transmission. Presumably it has >100k. Is there a risk in pairing an OEM rebuilt transfer case with a transmission this old?
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Previously, I would sometimes experience sluggishness and hesitation when attempting to accelerate. Now, the problem has become worse. Also, previously the issue occurred when I suddenly needed to accelerate to pass another vehicle. Now, I can feel it from take off, you really hear the engine struggling(the kind of sound you hear on an old 4 cylinder vehicle trying to go uphill). Sometimes, I feel the engine is struggling to keep the vehicle at a constant speed on a level road. Tried fuel injector cleaners like BG44K. While these injector cleaners are in the gas tank, the car runs smooth and has decent acceleration. Later, I return back to square one.
It is not that I have high expectations and am a power freak. I used to own a 2004 RX330 with 150K miles and that car ran better at 150K without any tune up then my GX460 with 60K miles. So, you can imagine my frustrations.
One more thing I noticed, it runs better when I just gas it up. One theory, could be the fuel filter is clogged. When I am suppose to change the fuel filter on the GX460?
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I just got a new Honda Fit. 5 speed. I recently just hit some black ice and to avoid hitting the guard rail and other cars, I had to do some very odd maneuvering - a combination of e-brake, downshifting, and a whole lot of praying.
So here are my questions, during this scenario while attempting to downshift (unsure if I had the clutch all the way in) I heard a strange noise that sounded like a windy-click, like something retracting from a wound-up spindle.
Last question, pulling the e-brake. I felt compelled to pull the e-brake based on my fishtail and luckily it stabilize the car. This happened at about 25mph. Unsure if at that time if I had the clutch all the way in - did I do any damage to the transmission or the e-brake in this situation?
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT. V6, 4x4
At very low speeds (5-10 mph), attempting to accelerate while turning (like coming out of a parking lot OR out of a curve) the transmission fails to engage. I hit the gas, the RPMs go up, but it doesn't get into gear. I will let off the gas, give it a couple seconds, hit the gas again and usually it engages. Sometimes I will have to repeat this step a second time. This problem started very slowly and has gradually gotten worse. It happens about once a day.
Concerned, I took it to the local Ford dealership and they have thus far changed/flushed the transmission fluid and replaced the filter. The mechanic said he found no metal shavings in the fluid, which might indicate grinding gears. They also said there were no codes coming up pointing to a transmission problem. It is still having the same exact issue however. The trouble now is they cannot "verify" the problem. The mechanics have put 40+ miles on it in similar driving scenarios and it will not act up for them.
After a couple weeks of back-and-forth, I'm really frustrated. My understanding is that they're "not sure" it is a transmission problem. They don't really want to open up the transmission case until they have a place to start. It should either be something mechanical with the transmission or a problem with the computer that controls the transmission, right? After getting off the phone with the mechanic today he said it might be a sticky throttle body?
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I have a 2009 Chevy Equinox with a little over 50,000 miles. About a year ago the key began sporadically getting stuck in the AUX position when I attempt to turn the engine off (no problems when starting engine). The dealer installed a new ignition cylinder (which cost me $1,000) but the problem continues. When the key sticks I re-start, re-shift and re-brake and I can remove the key and turn off the engine on the first or second try. The dealer suggested that I take my foot off the brake when I remove the key but I usually have to FLOOR the brake to remove the key.
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Having problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
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Just got home from work and the wife's 2003 Camry v6 won't start. She said the passenger windows work. The drivers side windows. Radio and sunroof does not work.
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Both front doors continuous clicking and attempting to lock (even though they are already locked) every few seconds while driving. All switches appear to be working normally. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting battery, I suspect the door lock ecu but can't find it's location. My next resort is to pull the door lock fuse so that I don' t damage the actuators.
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Having problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
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My Camry won't start, the lights are coming on, but don't get this ticking sound, only the fuel pump running. I changed the Battery, the Starter relay and still the same thing?
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Have an 03 Camry 4 cyl. That is my wife's car.
She reported nothing wrong yesterday but this am does not start. I can hear the starter humming but does not turn over. My charger shows battery at 100% but I suppose could still be the culprit. Going to have it load tested to find out for sure.
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While stopped at road site for a while, the car could not start any more, not even the clicking sound. Lights were OK. Could not be jump started either. Waited for an hour, it was started again. Thought it's a security lock-down. But happend again the next day. Checked at a parts store, showing the battery was the problem(2-3/4 year old), starter and alternator were OK. But why there was not clicking sound? It was complete silence.
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Working on my buddys 2003 camry, wont start, has air and spark and not getting fuel. replaced fuel pump already. If you hit it with a quite a bit of starting fluid it will fire up for a few moments and then die out, its got half tank of gas. The whole start of this is he ran out of gas and since then wont start.
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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Recently my 2003 Camry LE is blowing out a big puff of bluish/white smoke in the mornings when I first start the car or after extended periods of non-use. But I am not getting any smoke any other time that I can detect. The temperature here doesn't drop much below 70 degrees if it does. What could this be and how can I remedy it?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder with ~143K. When I start the engine I can hear a slight rattling noise. When I rev the engine the noise seems to go away (or it is just masked). I noticed the noise after the check engine light came on twice and I had it checked by an exhaust shop. The code was for an O2 sensor, but the exhaust shop said everything looked fine to them. This was about 7K ago. I jacked the car up a few weeks ago to check the exhaust for anything obvious, but couldn't find anything loose to explain the rattle.
I hit the exhaust pipe with my fist and heard a rattle a few times, maybe from the catalytic converter, but I am not certain. Everything runs/operates fine, smooth acceleration, fuel economy is unchanged, engine temperature is unchanged, but the noise persists. I don't know if it is just normal due to age and nothing to really worry about, or if it is the first sign of trouble. I have also noticed that I am using about 1/2 quart of oil between changes, but I'm fairly certain that started before this noise.
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