Camry :: 2003 - Turning Ignition More Times To Get The Car Started
Nov 1, 2011
Sometimes when I go to start the car, I have to turn the ignition anywhere from 1 to 6 times to get the car to start. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot. I hear the engine trying to start, after like 5 sec, I stop so I don't burn the starter up. The battery is fine, there are no fault codes. Recently it seems like its taking more times turning the ignition to get the car started. Sometimes, its the first time, other time its not.
Its an 2003, I4 with 76k on it.
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Recently my car has been giving me lots of problems starting. At first I thought it was a battery issue. All the lights on my dashboard would turn on but once I turn my key nothing happens . After trying to turn my car on all I would hear is one click . I get a new battery and the problem happened again . Thing is , it only happens sometimes and at the most inconvenient times at that.
I then thought it was a alternator problem but I ran the test to check that like taking off the the negative cable and even both after I started my car and the car stood running smoothly. Had someone else check the alternator and they said it was fine.
Today I had to turn the ignition switch about 5 times before the car even started . When it finally started , it sound like it was struggling to turn on. I have a 2001 eclipse gt.
What it can be?? Sometimes I'm scared to turn my car off . Someone told me it could be the cold weather , but I find it so hard to believe that it's just that. Especially when it happens at the most random times . When it wants to basically .
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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My wifes 2012 camry se just started having the maintenance light start blinking. it blinks 8 times when started then stays off. I check the manual but couldn't find any answers to what it means. Whats going on?
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When I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
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Was trying to change my reverse light on my 12 camry. I wanted to make sure the bulbs were working before I put everything back together. I put on the emergency brake put the car in the on position and put the car in reverse. Went to check the bulbs and nothing. Put the old bulbs in, nothing. Started the ignition and noticed that the the check engine light was on and also the P, R, N or D was not showing in the display. Let the car sit for a while and still the the same thing. What happened. All other lights work fine.
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My aunt's toyota camry will only start if we hold the directional indicator down when turning the ignition on. I thought she was crazy when she told me but that's really the only way it will start! It's a 1999.
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I have a duralast alternator installed in my I4 07 Camry since my OEM died. Unfortunately this was the only alternator I could get my hands on at the time. Recently I had this issue when I would start the car the battery light turns on. I would shut off the car and start it again the light disappears. I made sure all battery related equipment are screwed on tight. Also as I am starting the car the battery light dimly flickers. What could cause these issues. The battery is brand new and alternator is a few months, but autozone tested it and said it is good.
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My blinkers started off blinking a few times then stopped working, now they don't work at all. The fuse says it goes to the brake lamps, hazards and turn signals. The hazards work as well as the brake lamps. I found the relay/flasher box and it appears the relay and flasher is the same for both the turn signals and the hazards. I checked for the wire/connector problem in the column and all looks good there. When I activate the turn signal lever I feel one click in the relay/flasher which leads me to believe the turn signal switch is working. I went ahead and replaced the relay with no results. Is the flasher internals the same for both the hazards and the turn signals or is there two independent sections inside for each?
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2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
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I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
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My 03 Camry when the key is out of ignition the digital odometer is still on, the power windows are still usable for about a minute and the gas gauge still shows the gas level. What could this be?
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For some time I've thought my starter is going bad because I'll have to hit the ignition multiple times for it to actually start...I've even had to resort to push-starting it a couple of times. How can I tell if this is a bad starter or something else like the main relay?
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My 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
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Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
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I have a 2003 Camry and the steering started getting hard. It got worse with time. I changed the power steering pump and no dice. Next I have just completed a rack and pinion replacement. After each change I have no improvement. The steering has hard and easy spots not hard all the way through.
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Okay so I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 358, 000 miles. I replaced the transmission in 2010 with a gently used one that only had 100, 000 in it. Out had been running great until today when it started slipping in and out of overdrive. I had to turn the o/d off just to drive home and not get it over fifty. Now I don't know if I need to change the filter and fluid or just take it to a mechanic. I read on another site not to change the fluid and filter at such high mileage b/c the clutch and guys might rely on the friction of the gunk in the fluid and that new smooth fluid might keep it from running right.
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Have an unfortunate circumstance. '03 Camry XLE 4cyl with 188k on it and the trans just went crazy. Was on the interstate and it started downshifting. Wouldn't stay up in the gear it was before and eventually wouldn't go out of 1st or 2nd gear.
Haven't had shifting issues in the past and trans fluid has been changed regularly at no more than 30k mile intervals.
Worst part is that this was on the way to vacation, so the car was towed to Ft. Walton Toyota. They are saying the trans is slipping and it needs a rebuild. Seems very odd to me that the issue would come on this fast with no earlier signs. A valve cover gasket was replaced a couple weeks ago, but I don't see how that could be the cause.
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99 grand am,v-6 SE-2.my car has recently started to stall at times. Mostly in the afternoon when it is hotter. Runs for about 20 min. and then looses power and stalls. Will not restart unless I turn the key off and back on. Sometimes I have to do this about 10 times before it stays running. Each time I turn it back on the fuel pump pumps up within seconds. Stalls at idle and at part throttle. When it starts to stall you can here it sucking air big time. When it runs it runs great.there are no codes. Once it starts to stall it never recovers, just takes longer sometimes.
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So, I got in my car this morning, it started fine, no CEL, pulled out onto the main road and while while accelerating, it started to sputter and the CEL flashed several times. I turned back into my neighborhood, expecting it to stall, but it didn't. I sat there for a second, it was running fine, but I felt a few slight rumbles while idling, enough to make me nervous, but not enough to prevent me from continuing to work (I'm out of PTO).
So, I continued on, no CEL, accelerated and the sputtering happened again, slowed down, lightly pressed the gas pedal and it was fine. I made it to work. I just got the APR programming on Monday. I ordered the TT225 diverter valve.
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