Camry :: 2003 - Transmission Doesn't Shift Out Of Second Gear When Start Driving In Cold Morning
Jan 23, 2014
My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
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My 2007 es350 is already warmed up, so I know its not a temp issue.
My VSC light comes on (i know it comes on with any DTC)
My traction control light is on
My engine light is on
Now, when driving, it doesnt shift out of first gear till about 4K rpm and thats at normal acceleration (not flooring it) and shifts out of range on all other gears.
I can hear a humming/winding noise coming from the left side of the car (tray side) and it does it and I can hear it very clearly when letting off the accelerator (more noticeable at high speeds)
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Recently I have another problem:
When I drive uphill on the way the car's transmission doesn't shift up to the upper gear,the gear stays on 1,when I press the gas pedal more the EPC light comes on the dashboard,I must release 2-3 times the gas pedal then the gear goes up to 2-nd or 3-rd gear.This happens only when I drive uphill,when drive on flat street this problem almost doesn't come.
Another,when I drive downhill,the gear doesn't release sometimes too,the car tries to stop from 3-rd gear directly to 0,and the RPM goes straight to 100-200,even the car turns off... I heard something for the VW Phaeton transmission problems,and that it can be SOFTWARE flashed and the problems go away???
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry, automatic trans, 172k miles, still in great shape and has been well cared for with standard preventative maintenance. When it's cold (<30F), the transmission will not shift out of 2nd or 3rd gear, can't tell which. It reaches about 40mph before the RPMs approach 3000, and I dare not push it harder. Let the car warm up or drive it for 5 minutes and everything is fine. This has happened the last two winters. The car runs great other than this, which means there is no apparent problem 8 months of the year. I had the transmission fluid flushed and filter changed last year thinking it may improve, but there was no change. What could be the culprit?
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We just got a 2008 4Cyl with the 5spd auto. Only had it two weeks. When driving 35-45mph, the tranny will shift up into 5th gear and then basically STAY there. As we approach a slight upward grade, the tachometer is stuck at 1200 RPM and the whole car shudders and vibrates as the engine "lugs" down. We find ourselves constantly playing with the gas pedal in order to FORCE the tranny to downshift.
Took it to dealer. They experienced same thing. They said it was "Normal for this model - at this time". They quietly told me they are getting other complaints and look forward to Toyota releasing new programming for the ECU. Three different drivers and rear passengers have quickly remarked about this "sensation" when going up any grade.
We experience this constantly driving here in Maine. Interstate and inner city driving is fine. If we move the gated shifter to "4" - it resolves this problem. Dealer said this is normal. So I actually purchased a "manual" automatic transmission?? Do we just stop whining and retrain ourselves or do you folks think we can look forward to a solution?Our 2004 Camry, 2002 Tundra and our 1999 Solara had wonderful transmissions.
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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Like the title says, I sometimes experience a long shift from 1st to 2nd. When the transmission is cold, it seems to shift fine from 1st to 2nd. It isn't until it is warmed up that I get a looong shift. It winds up,,,,, then it shifts. I have no problems in other gears.
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My 2002 Camry has an automatic transmission that works fine except when it is about 20 degrees or colder. The problem is that the transmission does not want to shift from first to second gear. After about ten minutes things shift normally. Other than that I have had no issues with the transmission.
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
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I notice on cold days my transmission hesitates to shift and holds 2nd - 3rd for a long time before finally shifting. Once the car warms , all is fine. Will and what could the dealer do for this? I would like it looked after before my warranty runs out.
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97 Silverado - 5.7 with 4l60e trans. truck will not shift into 2nd gear while driving. stays in first gear until rpm are high and shifts into 3rd. under hard acceleration will stay in 1st until let off gas then shift into 3rd. manual shifting results in same, no 2nd gear until selector is moved into 3rd then shifts into 3rd. Haven't got any trans codes, fluid change netted no change in performance, fluid was pretty dirty but didn't smell burned, and there were no metal shavings in pan.
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Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
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Today my camry suddenly won't shift to 4th gear, so at low speeds, up to 40 mph, rpm reads 1.7 to 2, if i try to accelerate faster, the rpm goes up until 4.5 maybe at around 70 mph, poor acceleration and the driving feels heavy and unnatural.
I replaced the engine mounts a couple of weeks ago after waiting for about a year to do that, not sure if the two things are connected.
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I Have A 2001 F 150 And I Have Just Noticed That On Cold Morning When The Temperature Is Below 35 That My Transmission Takes A While To Shift Into High. Sometime I Am Two To Three Miles Down The Road Before It Will Shift Into The Last High Gear. Is This Normal Or Should I Have This Checked Out? I Have 53,000 Miles On This Truck And Do I Need To Have The Fluil Changed An Serviced.
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My 2003 VW Jetta TDI has a major problem. The engine has likely been damaged by an oil leak that was not discovered until the oil ran out. I now have much reduced compression (340lbs or less) and the car doesn't like to start in cold weather and when it does it smokes much. I need to know if it is worth rebuilding and, if so, where I might have this work done.
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I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
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This morning my 2011 Camry LE won't start. Based on looking at car manual I think the 'Engine Immobilizer System' is still engaged and perhaps not recognizing my key, neither of them since I tried the spare as well. The instrument panel stays black and I can not turn the key or even move the gear shift into Neutral.
Any way to fix this without calling for a tow? So.... found out the problem! The steering wheel was angled slightly. With key in the ignition we jerked the steering wheel slightly and it released the ignition and was able to start.
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My 2005 elantra 5-speed had typical clutch issues. Had a new one put in where i worked which repaired dump trucks and dumpster roll-off trucks. Got in the car and still had similar issues. I say similar because now when i start it cold, i have no 1st or 2nd..start moving in 3rd and drop into 2nd. After about 10 minutes of driving, you can chirp the tires in 1st. Could they have put gear oil that was too heavy and it needs to get warmed up? Does this sound possible? Should I change the gear oil?
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I have a 06 camry as is said in the title, it has 120k miles, 20k of those are mine which i have treated it well in terms of fluids, changing oil at 2k and i changed my tranny fluid 10k ago along with the coolant. On a cold start (Its 5 degrees out for the high) it stays running but when put into drive it dies. My only idea is the transmission, because the reason i changed the tranny fluid is cause my transmission wouldn't shift into higher gears for a large bit of time i.e., getting stuck in third a lot.
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