Camry :: 2003 - Trans Won't Shift Into 4th Gear In Normal Conditions - DTC P0766
Oct 5, 2014
On a '03 Solara, I've got this code. It designates Shift Solenoid Performance (stuck off) for the S4 valve. It makes sense because the trans won't shift into 4th gear in normal conditions.
But I was wondering what the likelihood of the transmission speed sensor set this code by giving a faulty reading that was too slow. The car seems like it is going somewhat faster than the speedometer is reading. RPMs are over 3000 at 50 mph. Seems like I'm doing 60-65. I wonder if the ECM is not commanding the 3-4 shift because it 'thinks' the car has not reached the required speed?
Or possibly the button on the shifter is simply malfunctioning. The indicator light on the dash comes on if the button is pushed, and goes out when you push it again. I'm not familiar with what the normal RPM would be at highway cruising. It's a 4 cyl with 169,400 miles. Would torque converter clutch be more likely to fail than the shift solenoids on these cars?
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I have been looking for some information on 2004 Camry SE 4 cylinder. Last week it stopped shifting into OD. but it shifts good through first, second and third.... then it at 65MPH. I am tacking 3.5 Hundred RPM. I have a OBDii code of P0766, Solenoid. But which one.
There are three solenoids in the trans. (I have changed the filter and fluids about 3000 miles ago ) so now I believe one of the solenoids is bad. But I cant find out which one.
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I'm trying to find information about replacing solenoid in my transmission. I have pdf of repair manual, and it doesn't have much information regarding transmission.
I have a p0766 code, and I think I need to replace Shift Solenoid. Does Technical Information Service Cover this with subscription.
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Everything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
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2003 Ford Exploreer 4x4 5R55W Auto Tranny. From driving the car it does not shift into 2nd or 5th gear. The O/D light flashes, and the check engine light comes on. Gives Code P0775, which indicates a problem with Solenoid 2.
This weekend I changed the Shift Solenoid Pack with a brand new one from Ford, and the exact same problems still exist. It's as if I hadn't done anything to the car. I have read somewhere that 2nd and 5th gears share a band in the tranny, could the the problem.?
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My 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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The truck belongs to a very good customer of mine and is a 05 f350sd 6.0 td with 5r110 torqshift tranny. The vehicle presents with these symptoms and codes....
-there is a delay from p to r and its intermittent, sometimes it will be in a weak reverse where it wont creep unless you give it some gas, sometimes it will hit reverse hard after this. sometimes it bangs reverse
-there is a delay into drive intermittently with the same symptoms as reverse where sometimes it bangs and sometimes it will take a little throttle to get it moving
-once the trans is hot (operating temperature) it has trouble downshifting. my solus tells me sometimes it tries to start off in 3 or 5 then sometimes it will bang back down into first and almost chirp tire with little throttle input
-tow haul light will flash after several miles and then it only has 1-2-3-4 no 5-6. then the starting off symptoms get worse
-throws codes for
p0766 shift sol d performance/stuck
p2701 friction element b apply time range/performance
p2703 friction element d apply time range/performance
p0700 trans control system fault.
So far the ideas i have are as follows
replace solenoid D
direct clutch replacement and seals for corresponding drum
torque converter replacement and pump replacement
harness rub through between pcm and transmission
The truck has had similar issues a year ago. Upon testing line pressure i found it was out of spec and replaced the epc. (electronic pressure control solenoid) and this cleared most of it up . I have had the pan down many times and the fluid has not been burnt and there is little debris in the pan. nothing i would consider beyond normal wear. Tomorrow I will be dropping the pan again to inspect the magnet and fluid as well as the condition of the harness. i will post my findings at that time. I am hoping between now and then some of you will be able to point out a few possibilities to get me on the right track.
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Today my camry suddenly won't shift to 4th gear, so at low speeds, up to 40 mph, rpm reads 1.7 to 2, if i try to accelerate faster, the rpm goes up until 4.5 maybe at around 70 mph, poor acceleration and the driving feels heavy and unnatural.
I replaced the engine mounts a couple of weeks ago after waiting for about a year to do that, not sure if the two things are connected.
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Having issue where you get a continuous whistling while under normal driving conditions. I recently went to stage 3 Revo software using the Stasis Revo K04 upgrade kit, installed professionally. Have looked at all possible sources of the whistling, have narrowed it down to the the turbo itself. Can hear the car whistling from a good distance away from it. when not moving if I rev the engine i can reproduce the whistle as well, just not sustained. As soon as you press the throttle above 2400 RPM it starts whistling and continues to whistle as long as throttle is pressed. Car is almost un-drivable because of whistle.
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A large auto magazine has reviewed the Auris Hybrid (Gen III Prius drive train) while remarking that driving in 'B' gives better regen. This auto magazine also does a fuel economy evaluation and noted engine noise as a negative point for the car.
Now, how much fuel economy is affected during normal city/highway driving when you drive in 'B' rather than 'D'? And as a bonus. How much more will the engine run due to the missing regen?
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I was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
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Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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I replaced the old auto trans that was slipping in my 2000 golf with a same year auto trans from a beetle. The beetle had 115k miles and the PO toasted the 1.8t. I replaced the TCM also and when I finished the install I took it out for a drive this afternoon and when I shift it into drive it starts out in 3rd. It will manually shift through the gears but it will not shift from 3rd to 4th. Could I have left something unhooked? Is this a solenoid issue?
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My 1985 BMW 635, standard transmission suddenly developed shifting problem. It will not shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th gear. It will shift into reverse,2nd and 4th gear. The car is not driven on any frequent schedule, infrequently. I can't remember the last time the transmission oil was changed.There has not been any mechanical distress,grinding of gears,etc. you just cant engage those gears. They all are moving the shifter from neutral to a up position. Is it possible that sludge could be blocking the movement of the synchronize r?
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99 grand prix gt. 4t65e trans. 170k miles. way above avg for life expectancy. 1-2 shift is ok. Will not shift into 3rd. If you keep increasing vehicle speed to about 45 or so, it will shift into 3rd and than immediately into 4th. 45mph is about 4k rpm. I can see the tach drop to 3k rpm for 1 sec or so and than it drops to 2k approx. It will stay in OD and does not slip. If I stay at 50mph or so and punch the gas, I can make it shift into 3rd gear and it will stay in 3rd as long as i give it 2/3 gas. Once i left off the gas it goes back to OD. Any theories why it wont hit 3rd on the way up but will easily drop from 4th down to 3rd whenever I want? I know, its time for a rebuild.
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OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
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I just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
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i have a 1999 mazda troy lee b3000. The truck has a 3.0 flex fuel and 4r44e and when you go to drive it. turn the key engine fires up but the trans won't shift into gear. Here is the back story.Bought the truck brand new in 99 I'm the original owner it was a daily driver up until 2 years ago. the truck has over 300k miles and still ran great but the camshaft was starting to go. I was gona replace the cam but came across a killer deal on a new engine. picked up another 3.0 flex fuel with 50k miles. drove the truck into my garage removed the old engine installed the new engine. got in the truck turned the key and the new engine roared to life.
I went to put the truck into gear so i could get it out of the garage and go for a test drive and nothing. went to put it in drive and again nothing. no matter what gear its put in it doesn't move at this point i was confused and decided to quit for the night. That was in 2011 its now 2013 the truck has just sat there sense then. I've tried anything and everything even went as far as swapping transmissions and computers with no luck. I took the trans apart I don't know how many times can't find anything wrong with it.
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I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
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My 2011 F150 limited started great bout 3 blocks away from home. The truck glitch. Then it wouldn't shift out of 3rd gear even at take off it was in 3rd. There was also a delay going from fwd to rev. With a clunk as it when in gear. I took it to the dealer ship. EVS Ford Random Lake WI. They were great fast and explained the prob to me. They had to reprogram the tranny. The temp sensor was wigged out n didn't know its own temp so it went into a fail safe mode.
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