I've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
View 9 RepliesI own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
View 6 RepliesMy clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
View 8 RepliesThis problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
View 19 RepliesI've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Celica GTS with 80,000 miles. The clutch pedal pressure was very stiff. I had a 2001 GT, and it had a very soft and easy clutch. I just removed and rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder, using the CSK 2426 rebuild kit. The slave cylinders on 2000 to 2005 Celicas are all the same. After bleeding the cylinder, the pedal pressure is very much improved. It still takes some effort, but not like before.
View 1 RepliesJust bought a 1995 GMC Sonoma. Needs some TLC but the brake and clutch pedals are unusually hard. They are still 100% operable, but they are both pretty stiff. Any trial and error ideas I should try to attempt to resolve this issue? Yes, fluids are topped off.
View 1 RepliesMy 1970 Nova has a very stiff clutch pedal. Is it possible to adjust the tension on it? It's getting to the point where it makes my foot sore to drive the thing- very annoying. It has a 3 speed on the floor gear-shift.
View 11 RepliesI have an issue when I go to start the car after it sits for as little as 30 min.The brake pedal is stiff and its hard to start since you have to depress the brake pedal prior to starting the car .
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
View 17 RepliesMy wife has a 2003 Camry that we had to replace the clutch last year. Now her clutch pedal goes to the floor and does not return.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford ZX2 with 170,000 miles on it. The clutch pedal doesn't engage the clutch until it is almost touching the floorboard. I thought it had a hydraulic clutch being a 2001 but I can't find a reservoir for the fluid so now I must assume now that it is a mechanical clutch.
1. Does they hide the reservoir on these ZX2's?
2. What could cause the clutch issue?
I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
View 6 Replies2001 Accent 1.5 GL 165K miles.
The clutch doesn't engage until it's on the floor. I have to push real hard to allow the gear to engage. It then shifts... sometimes smoothly, sometimes it takes a hard push of the gear shifter, or it grinds until getting into gear.
I've changed the master cylinder twice in about 3 years but those times the pedal had no spring and just fell to the floor and stayed. Now, the pedal has spring (I push it to the floor and it springs back) so I assume the MC is ok. I even bled it with fresh fluid.
I'm not sure if the tranny fluid has ever been changed. Would changing the fluid fix this problem or does it sound like I need a new clutch? I'm guessing it needs a new clutch (or corresponding parts) since I've had two MC's go bad in a few years.
The pedal, even when it's shifting smoothly is pretty non-responsive and still engages a little mushy (comparing it to my 2012 Elantra 6sp).
So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
View 3 RepliesBeen having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
View 11 Replies95 ford ranger clutch pedal very hard when hot. Will not engage clutch. Ok after setting for 1 hour.
View 1 RepliesI have a 89 nissan fairladyz32 (300zx) and when i push the clutch peddle in it is very hard and i cant put it in 1 and reverse when it is running but when it is off i can just fine. but then if i put it in 1 gear before starting it and push the clutch in to start the car it lurches forward a little what could this be? and when i leave it to idle for to long it puffs smoke or at first start up? It has about 80,000 km.....
View 6 Replies