Camry :: 2003 Sportivo - Top End Ticking Noise
Jan 16, 2014
This car has only done 105,000km. Very well looked after and regularly serviced. The car does around 10,000km/yr so I get it serviced the same time every year. Last service was June 2013. I've had this ticking noise for quite a while now. It's not just at startup, it's continuous. Was first picked up during a service and most likely cause was that it needed valve adjustment. I've never had any dashboard warning lights and the car has never run low on oil, I check the oil myself, at least every 2 weeks. The noise has gradually gotten worse, particularly this past few weeks. The noise is somewhat similar to this, not quite the same: [URL] ..... (I will post my own vid as soon as I can)...
I've just had the valve clearances checked and some other diagnosis. All valve clearances were within spec and were all even, and slightly loose (being slightly loose is a good thing I believe). The internal condition of the engine was very clean, shows no evidence of wear or slugging. Chain tensions and quids test OK. Inspection of the VVTi solenoid showed no visible fault and was quite clean, no holes blocked or anything like that.
The noise is loudest around number 2 exhaust valve in the top of the engine. The mechanic says the next step is to remove cam shafts and inspect the VVTi actuator and valve shim buckets. No firm quote on this but minimum $3k, and possibly $5k to diagnose and repair. Those rough quotes seem way over the top to me, are they? Can't you put a new engine in for that sort of price?
I've researched this ticking noise and found a few camrys with similar issue. One was solved by replacing the OCV (VVTi solenoid). My mechanic said the solenoid looked fine, clean and no blockages. With the solenoid out the dashboard warning light came on, so it seems the VVTi system is working. I'm thinking there might be a problem with the solenoid even though it looks OK, thought it might be worth puttiing a new one in just to see. Thoughts? I guess this camry also has a separate OCV filter but the mechanic had no reason to suspect that would be clogged so he didn't check it.
Another cause I found through research was wear on the VVTi actuator, something to do with wear around the lock pin area. I thought this camry had this lock pin set up on the VVTi actuator but my mechanic says it's a different system using a spring or something. Mechanic says cost of the actuator alone is around $2.5k, does that sound right?, sounds completely over the top to me. Mechanic's gut feel is that the problem is not with the actuator. He's actually at a loss and next step is to strip it down, the cost seems very high though.
One other thing, and I could be imagining this, is that the engine bay seems to get exceedingly hot these days. It may have always been like that but I don't think so. I'm half expecting the thing to blow any minute.
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What is that little motor shown in the still image (in focus at 22 seconds in the video) and why is it ticking? I noticed for the first time ever that it coincidentally wasn't ticking when I first tried shooting this video. After idling for a few minutes, it came on and started ticking away. Its much more noticeable when the engine idle is lower than in the video, and its more noticeable in person. The noise I am referring to is more pronounced later in the video at around 44 seconds when I go completely out of focus because I am putting the mic right next to it.
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I have an 07 Camry with an I4 engine and there are times when I am driving with the two front windows down and I hear a ticking/clicking noise coming from the engine as if the engine is brittle.
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I have a 2004 XLE V6 that just recently has started a clicking/ticking noise coming from the dash around the passanger side/glove box area. It sounds like a small electrical relay noise randomly making/braking its contacts. At first I thought it was the CD player (you know how it clicks when changing/loading CDs), but it happens with the radio turned off.
The noise does not have any definite rhythm and it's not coming from the engine, but only makes the noise when the engine (and A/C) is running. I've noticed the noise will go away after the interior temperature cools down. What is causing this clicking/ticking noise?
Since I have a XLE with the digital temperature control, is there a temperature sensor located somewhere that feeds a signal to the A/C controls for the cabin temperature to automatically adjust the cabin temperature/fan speed, etc.?
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2008 Camry SE V6 with sunroof ticking / creaking / moonroof structure noise. Car has 50K miles on it. Has been in 1 slight driver side scrape accident but no crunching. Dealer says it's about 6.5 hrs labor to fix since my car is way passed the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty. TSB doesn't extend it at all.
TSB is T-SB-0088-12
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I just bought a 2012 Camry SE V6 about 2 weeks ago. This week, I have noticed a steady clicking or ticking sound coming from the passengers side front wheel (or so it sounds to be from there). Not feeling any vibrations or anything like that and I have checked the tire(s) for rocks or nails to no avail. The sound is not present at speeds lower than 50mph (that I can hear anyways) and seems to get slightly louder in volume as speed increases from 50mph (though there is no increase seemingly in frequency of the sound) and if the passengers side window is up it cannot be heard at all. What was the ultimate solution? I want to be able to drive my Camry with pride but it's hard when all I can hear is the ticking noise with my windows down.
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I have an 08 camry v6 with 31K. I noticed when I got off the highway after driving for about a 1/2 hour the engine had a loud vibrating/ticking noise when I stepped on the gas. This morning when the car was cold and I drove it locally it was fine, i also checked the oil and it's clean and full. Not sure what's going on. Also this only happened after I had the whole car painted not sure if it's related since I dont know if they take parts off to paint a whole car.
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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My mom has a 2003 pontiac montana thats making a ticking noise says its low on oil but i just changed the oil 2 and half weeks ago. Why it would be ticking?
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2003 Santa Fe with the 2.7l v6. It started making ticking noises from the engine bay about a year ago it sounds almost like when you take a spark plug out of the socket while engine is running (that’s the best way I can describe it).
It used to only do it when it was cold out and first started. Then it started doing it while at idle as well. Now it does it all the time no matter idle, or how warm the engine is or how warm it is outside. It getting so loud it sounds like I have a diesel engine.
The check engine light came on and was on a for a while before I could find the issue. The issue that caused the CEl to come on was a solenoid and an Air intake temp sensor. I fixed those but that had no effect on the noise. I have replaced all the valve gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv valve air filter. Still had no effect.
My wife took it to a mechanic who I believe ripped us off, and did no work but charged her for it. They did a timing belt and lower valve gasket job 1500$. There was no sticker to prove new timing belt, no new water pump, thermostat, and then they said it needed a new ECU (200$) which they ordered it and it had nothing to do with the ecu. They should have eaten the cost once they put it in and found it wasn’t that, but they did not!!! She has no idea about cars and paid them. but don’t get me started on that I will never return to that shop, and am thinking of taking them to small claims court dishonest thieves who took advantage of her not knowing about cars (I was out of state for work, and was out of cell phone range so she couldn’t have asked me).
It has a hard time going up steep inclines and you have to either gun it before the incline or it is very hard to make it up you can put the peddle to the floor and it only slowly climes but the engine rpms almost go to redline 5k rpms. Whenever I go to put gas in it clicks the pump off nonstop and to fill the tank you literally have to find a sweet spot or stand there and constantly hold it in when it clicks and clicks and clicks. I have changed the oil to synthetic, and I am using only OEM oil filters from the dealer ship. I changed the idler pulley, but that did not work. I changed the Oil and filter, but that did not work either.
I have had multiple people look at it and some of the answers they have said were…. “Noisy lifters”, “ticking idler pulley”, “Sticky timing chain idler”, “Change the oil and switch to oem filter”, “Its defiantly “something wrong in the fuel system”. And the best one… “I don’t know it sounds like it’s not long for this world”.
So now I am trying to decide the next step. I don’t like driving it around to much as I am worried if it is serous it may be something that ends up running the engine, but it’s the only vehicle available at the moment. I feel like hitting my head on the dash board I don’t know what to do anymore.
Link to photobucket video of noise : [URL] .....
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Having problems with a squeaking or ticking noise coming from the front windshield area on the passenger side? I took off the A-pillar and tweeter speaker cover, and the noise was still there. Pressing on the A-pillar did not work and it's not any of the cords or plastics in there rubbing. It almost sounds like it's behind the A-pillar. Pressing on the dash, windshield, headliner, etc. all have no effect on the noise.
I'm trying really hard to fix this myself because I'm worried about a tech tearing apart the dash trying to fix it. It might end up worse than it is now. I'm thinking this TSB will need to be done (which seems to apply to all Toyotas): [URL] ....
Next on my list to check is the passenger side mirror (make sure it's fastened securely) and also the black liner under the windshield wipers. I also have foam (like the kind you use when installing a window AC) which I may also try stuffing into the bottom of the front windshield (and maybe the top) to see if that works.
If all else fails, the car is going to the dealer I guess. The Camry is such a quiet car that the noise is really irritating in an otherwise quiet interior. Other than this noise, the car is great! Just a little bummed because my 2005 has zero rattles or noises and my gf's old 2009 also had no rattles or noises. The 2015 refresh is nice, though we're still on the fence about the front grille. My relative is waiting for the 2016's to be released later this year and then he will be buying one for his patrol car. The 2015 isn't a full redesign but it looks different enough that he wants to wait for the next MY to come out. He's dreading leaving behind his 5MT Civic but it needs to be replaced. He hasn't had an auto, ever, come to think of it..
It sounds exactly like this, and is at its worse when accelerating: [URL] ....
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About a week ago my 1997 F150 4.6L 2WD starting a ticking noise. I had used high mileage full synthetic Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft oil filter for the previous oil change and yesterday had another oil change using regular Mobil 1 synthetic and a Motorcraft oil filter. Had never used high mileage oil before.
Since the high mileage oil is supposed to have extra cleaning agents in it to remove the sludge buildup in the engine, could the sludge have found its way into the oil pan and possibly clogged up the oil pickup tube? The ticking was not continuous and would be at idle or acceleration.
No rhyme or reason to when you would hear it. I also wonder about an exhaust manifold leak which could sound like ticking. If the problem is an oil pickup tube being clogged up, can the oil pan be removed with the engine still in the truck?
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So on a cold start I keep hearing this ticking noise. Not every time, but more often than not.
I have two thoughts:
1) Low oil pressure causing timing chain tensioners to allow slack in the timing chain. Oil pressure builds up after about 1 minute of driving.
2) Oil Restricter in the valve cover starving one side of the valve cover?
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Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
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I own a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GL Model.
When in Idle the car starts to make a ticking noise and tends to get louder the longer it sits. On top of this the idle does seem louder than when I first got the car like a constant purring noise if that makes sense. I am only able to hear the ticking while in idle, but the purring noise is continuous even while driving. I'm not sure what the problem could be but have the necessary funds to make some repairs on my car though not tons.
My car currently has approximately 128,500 miles on the engine. I'd like to keep this car running for a long time.
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I have a 2001 5.4 V8 with 55K miles and the tow package. On acceleration the engine makes a ticking noise. Engine seems to run fine, no misfire.
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Here's a bit of background on the car itself:
It's a 2003 corolla, 180k miles, and was sitting an entire year. About a month ago, I replaced my battery, and did an oil change. After the oil change, I started getting a few random symptoms:
loud ticking sound in my engine
check engine light with code P1349, VVT System (but it's disappeared since)
oil light on and off, intermittently.
With a bit of research on the error code, people have said to replace the VVT-i actuator. Do you think this solenoid has a large potential as the source of the issue? I purchased one for around $100 from Autozone, but am having a tough time removing it from the engine.
If you think this is the issue, how can I remove the solenoid? Do I just unbolt the one bolt I see on there and yank? Or is there something else I'm missing?
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I have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
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My old truck is still running, running pretty good actually. it has a "tick" though. it is only present at low rpm while driving. it reminds me of an exhaust leak or a lifter on a gas car. I looked under the truck where the exhaust stuff hooks up and didn't notice any soot evidence. it doesn't make the sound in neutral as bad.
I did the buzz test with forscan and they all passed none sounded weak. I did the CCT test and 3,8, and 5 failed. I am running the grey CPS and have read it can contribute to a fail on 3 and 8, don't know about 5. If it were a rod knocking, I am sure I could tell, that's a fairly distinct sound. I am wondering if the bearing on number 5 rod is getting bad? truck doesn't burn oil, only a dab of black smoke when I really spool. it will make the sound also on deceleration.
I plan on replacing the engine soon, but want to salvage the core so I can tear it apart and learn maybe build a go getter.
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My wife is talking to someone about purchasing a 1998 4.6 4x4 EB Expedition. The owner says the only issue is a tick coming from the driver's side head. He claims the shop told him it was "just a cam stator". Now, say what you will, but I've dabbled just enough with mod motors (2v and 3v, 4.6's and 5.4's) to feel like I'd rather stick to old pushrods. I've never heard of a "cam stator" on a 2v 4.6. I also realize that stator is a word that gets tossed around a bit by people who don't fully understand what it is.
Now, this is a relatively high mileage engine (something like 220k I think) so I know it could be a whole slew of things from cracked/leaking exhaust mani, lifters, timing chain, etc. But, in all my searching, "2v 4.6 cam stator" keeps leading me to people troubleshooting pushrod distributors, 3v VVT troubleshooting, and alternator related posts. Is this such a thing, what this shop may have been trying to refer to? He claims it's done it for about 5 years now, and runs perfectly fine. I'm leaning towards lifter, but the truck is 3 hours away so I haven't got to check it out yet....
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So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
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