My 2003 Camry loses power and starts to hesitate or miss-like under load, but when cruising along not under load it runs smooth. There is no check engine light coming on.
I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter in the tank.
I have changed the spark plugs.
I have added injector cleaner and fuel treatment to the fuel.
I have cleaned the air filter and air filter compartment.
Our Camry has about 105,000 miles on it. Car is well maintained, I change the oil every 3 k or so and the air filter is clean (although it is not a factory air cleaner- it is a K&N filter). Other maint is done as specified by the warranty/maintenance book although the car is long out of factory warranty.
We occasionally pull a 800 lb pop-up tent trailer and just got back from the Sierras after driving up some pretty tall passes with it. Car ran great, got great mileage, temp gauge rock steady. I say this because it is probably the most stressful driving we do with this car. While we live in the city we are retired and the car is not exposed to constant heavy traffic, dust or snow. Mileage seems to have remained pretty steady, even with the hesitation.
Got home from the mountains and a couple days later the car began to hesitate when under load. The hesitation shows up as a slightly uneven surge when the car is going up a hill or when it is cold. About 20 mph the car seems to momentarily stop accelerating, then evens out and upwards of 40 mph I don't feel it at all. The hesitation is getting a bit worse over the last couple days in frequency, but still isn't felt on the freeway. I don't know if the hesitation is related to the recent trip to the Sierras.
I hooked up my OBD II computer to see if there are any DTCs, none shown, even left the computer on the car for a day to see if anything might pop up when the car surged, but the computer isn't seeing trouble codes.
My other thought was "got some bad gas", ran the tank out and put in new gas, fuel injector cleaner and dryer. With one new tank it hasn't worked. I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet.
Tried driving the car in 1st and 2nd gear only and found that the hesitation isn't dependent on what gear I'm in, but seems to be more about the speed and load. In neutral, slowly revving the engine, I don't detect anything that sounds or looks like a hesitation (just watching the tach).
Been reading about problems some Toyotas have had with unintended acceleration but I'm not sure that is my problem. I have to admit I didn't know that my Camry was "drive by wire" and maybe I don't understand it enough. Maybe a "reflash" might be needed?
My sense is that I should go ahead and do the next major maintenance items including plugs, but if I had a bad plug or plug coil wouldn't that show up as a Diagnostic Trouble Code item?
Could this be a bad injector or fuel filter? Wouldn't they produce a DTC? How do I break down the next steps?
I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
View 8 RepliesLoss of coolant! I have a 2003 6.0 diesel with 200,000 miles. I put in a new oil cooler and ipr egr delete two years ago also flush the system and added a coolant filter. I filed it back up with the red antifreeze. Now the problem I have never lost any coolant since then and my deltas are about 5 degrees. But the other day I pulled a heavy load the first one since I did the repairs (coolant got up to 220 degrees and would drop back down) when I got home the coolant tank was about a inch low. I let the truck sit about 3 hours and checked it again and it was back at the full mark. Drove it the next day and it's back low about a inch, Any clue what's going on.
View 3 RepliesIve got a 2001 f-150, 5.4L, 121k miles. I've replaced the fuel filter, removed and cleaned all injectors, cleaned MAF, changed 2 faulty coil packs, and installed all new plugs.
No codes thrown, truck runs smooth. Problem is intermittent. It will act as though it's got no power, usually won't happen till it's warm. I can drive it for 2 hours, runs strong. Sometimes when I pull onto a highway and get on the throttle a bit, it starts to hesitate, rpm's go to about 3k and it hesitates, but does not miss. acts like trans is slipping but I'm positive it's not.
So when it starts to do this, it's constant. I can continue to drive and it's runs terrible, does ok if you barely use any throttle. But.... I can be driving 40-50mph while it's having this problem, toss it in neutral, turn it off and restart, and all the power is back, great acceleration, as if nothing ever happened.
So I have had my 02' Camry for a little over a year. Love the car, it is a 2.4L SE with a 5-speed manual. Recently it has developed this mystery misfire/hesitation under a load and at idle with the AC on. I replaced the plugs with OEM Toyota Iridium and it seemed to clear it up for about a month, but now has come back. If I start the car and turn on the AC it will intermittently start to miss but not only when the compressor is engaged and it does it every now and then under a load specifically in 4th or 5th gear under a load with lower RPM's (under 2000).
The check engine light is not on and hasn't as much as even flashed on at any time so there must not be any hard misfire codes. I want to stop by Autozone and see if they will scan it to find any stored codes but haven't had time. I would think that if it was a coil pack that it would be a hard misfire. I'm stumped. This car is in great condition...no oil leaks, interior is near perfect (replaced a worn shift knob, and door panel pieces around the window switch). Also car has 160k miles.
Doesn't happen all the time but when it does it is obvious at 45 mph. Not there at no load on engine. No code shown.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 CTS, 3.6. 128k miles. Always changed the oil myself at 3,000 miles religiously. A few months ago, the car began to "jump" or hesitate when accellerator pushed. Not right away, but after car reached about 30 mph. Again when on it reached about60 mph on highway. It cruises fine, but if you push it, it stutters a bit and the check engine light flashes, Then regains it's composure and away it goes. I noticed that when I changed the oil, the filter is filthy, filthy. Always has been. Use the right oil and all.
Now, I take it to a local national automotive chain and they tell me it is misfiring on #6 and needs plugs, coils and the works. So I had them do it. The car still jumps at same intervals. So i take it back and now it is misfiring on ALL plugs ( or so the computer says). Now the mechanic tells me that the timing chains are all buggered up and the engine needs to be replaced. So I seek another it to another garage and they say that they see the same codes, but don't think it is in need of new engine. They would like to keep it anid see if they can find the problem. A week passes and they can't diagnose the problem.
My 2.4L 03 XLE with 220k on it is losing power. Running fine other than not accelerating or going up hills as well as it was last week. I have P420 cat code for the past 40K. It also has the typical smoky start from leaking valve seals and uses about a quart every 1k miles.
Ran a can of 44k through it and I'm about to pull the plugs and see what shape they are in, but I'm wondering if this loss of power might be the cat. I've been searching and it seems a plugged cat is a common cause for power loss. Seems likely since I use so much oil.
Seen the DIY replacement and leaky seals Rockauto suggested replacement Eastern ECOIII as well as the Walker.
My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
I have a 1992 k1500 5.0L. The pickup seems to run good, or at least better when it's cold and engine isn't to operating temp. But once it reaches temp it loses a noticeable amount of power, as well as has a "dead spot" in throttle response. From about 1/2 to 3/4 it's like nothing happens you push the pedal but no response. Only at about 3/4 once it down shifts then you get an increase in speed. So now back to power loss. It is bad enough that just to maintain a highway speed of 60mph it will downshift even on very small hills and on flat ground the pedal is about 3/4 of the way to the floor.
Some history: It has a rebuilt transmission in it with a 2000 rpm stall converter instead of stock(so two questions one when I re installed the kick down cable could I have adjusted it wrong and could this cause my issue, and what's the proper way to adjust? Second could the 2000 rpm stall converter cause any issues?)
It has a new distributor, cap, rotor, along with plugs and wires. I recently installed: knock sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, tps sensor, egr valve, pcv valve, ecm, rebuilt the throttle body, as well as a few other things I'm probably forgetting.
I suspect the engine is running rich because the exhaust tail pipe has a lot of soot(it has no cat was that way when I bought it but it has way more soot than it should even with no cat.) I just checked fuel pressure and it's right at 11 to 12 psi. I haven't pulled plugs yet to confirm rich condition, but last time I changed them they were all black as coal.
Once again my Celica is having a similar issue. Originally over 6 months ago i had an issue with my MAP Sensor which was causing extreme hesitation issues and the car was basically not safe to drive in traffic.
The issue that is now occurring is that i can start my car fine and drive around on flat normal roads with no issues but ive noticed once i go up a steep or decent hill/driveway the car will start to bog down around 1500-2100 RPM.
Once it starts to play up it continues to do so even on flat roads.
Have Checked:
- MAP Sensor - OK
- Distributor - OK
- Leads - Old but still ok, plan to replace later.
- Spark Plugs - Ok
- Spark Plug Wells - They had oil in them few weeks ago, cleaned out and hasent returned.
- Need to replace Valve cover gasket to fix this i believe.
- Fuel is ok.
I drove my car to work today and no problems. Tonight my wife and I took the car out to go to dinner and intermitantly there and back my car is hesitating as we drive along. I thought it was odd at first then my wife asked if I was kidding around. I told her its not me.
It's as if the car is driving then all of a sudden its like a loss of power or as if the limiter kicks in and starved the engine of gas and then a second later it jerks back to life and keeps going.
If it does this tomorrow its going to the dealer. It is not throwing any warning lights and I have 3/4 tank of gas so its not that.
We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
Alright, my '06 SV6 AWD has a major problem...I'm about to blow it up! But seriously, I've had an issue for a few weeks now with intermittent acceleration/hesitation problems. Basically it started as a rare occurrence and is happening more often now. Yesterday, it did it consistently for 20 minutes on one trip around town. 1 hour later, it didn't happen noticeably at all on the way home. It happens while accelerating, usually from a stop, but also sometimes when cruising at highway speeds.
The car does not stall or stumble. Everything sounds fine and smooth, but when accelerating from a stop, the car will stop accelerating and the speed slowly drops off. Pushing the accelerator down further to the floor does nothing for several seconds, then the power returns and the car responds to whatever position the pedal is in. If you haven't pushed further it continues accelerating where you left off. If you've got it to the floor, it takes off quickly. When cruising at speed, you don't notice anything until you start slowing down, and the pedal reacts the same way. NOTE: The engine does not rev up when this is happening. It's not like the tranny is slipping.
It really seems like a fuel delivery problem and not transmission. It has all the normal symptoms of a failing pump. And about 2 months ago, I had the fuse for the fuel pump melt (not blow). These problems didn't happen immediately after, but they did happen a few weeks after that.
That said, I have noticed that when cruising I occasionally hear a light clunking noise that sounds like the rear diff engaging. I assume this is just due to play in the drive train. I also had to recently do the expensive versatrack fluid flush and fill to get rid of the diff groan. But I still feel like it's probably fuel related because the engine doesn't rev up.
Here's what I've done so far:
1. Checked the wires at the problematic C305 connector. I already had to completely redo that connector several years ago as the PO had removed the connector and directly twisted all wires together covered the with tape, and filled hole with silicon. BTW, GM does sell all of those harnesses with length of wire, connectors, and heat shrink covers for reasonable $$. Anyway, found 2 wires with insulation slightly shaved off. Neither was for the fuel pump, everything else still looked good.
2. Checked voltage at the gray fuel pump wire just after the new harness (about a foot before the fuel pump). And checked the ground at the same location. Haven't checked at pump connector because I don't want to drop tank just yet. Both were fine with almost no resistance on power between that location back to the fuse box. So, it doesn't look like a bad or shorted wire unless it is in that short length up to the fuel pump that I cannot access w/o dropping the tank.
3. Checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The pressure when primed and idling is a consistent 60-62 psi. I know the manual states 60psi as the max. Maybe this has something to do with it?? Perhaps my cheap actron pressure guage is a bit off or perhaps the pressure regulator is bad. Could this cause the issue.
4. Checked for DTC's with code reader. No active or pending codes.
The other things I think could be the cause based on internet research:
1. Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor
2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
3. PCM
4. O2 sensor
The problem is that all of those things tend to set a DTC from what I've read. I still think the fuel pump us going bad and the pressure was fine because the problem is intermittent. I just don't want to spend the $$ on a new pump to find out it was something else.
Tomorrow, I will have access to a scanner that can log 10 seconds of data from the computers while driving. I think that might shed some light if I can get the problem to happen when recording. I'm not familiar with fuel trims and the lot.
Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
2001 F150 V8 4.6 Liter... I've been experiencing hesitation when first pressing the gas, stall at idle, RPM fluctuating between 1000 and 500 at idle and loss of acceleration. Had the truck read at autopart store and received a P0402 error and misfire is cylinder 8.
At this point, I've changed the the plug, COP, EGR valve, EGR Valve Solenoid and DPFE sensor and still have the exact same symptoms. I've also changed the plug for cylinders 5,6 & 7 as well. The check engine light is on, went off briefly after changing DPFE sensor, but back within a day.
Given the fact the error code is P0402 and some of the threads I've read, I thought the issue was centered around the EGR system, but I've replaced many of the components.
2012 Accent Hatchback. ~57k miles. (not yet done the 60k mile service)
So at about 1.4-1.7K rpm I hear a slight squeal and the engine's rpm suddenly jumps down for a second, and you can feel the car shake, then comes back up.
I was able to see it while idling, where the engine simply shook a little, like it's stuttering/sputtering and about to stall, but then immediately recovers and continues to idle normally until it happens again (not very often when in idle, usually more often when getting out of idle and slightly depressing the accelerator)
If I press the accelerator more or harder then I don't get any of it. I'm coming up the 60k mile service, and the schedule recommends inspecting and replacing the belt.
I am wondering if the belt slips on the alternator would you be getting similar symptoms or should I be looking elsewhere? I don't think this matters, but I'll mention it anyways, I'm about 1K miles overdue on an oil change. But I don't think 1k is that big of a deal.
I bought a 2002 santa fe last week. it was a non runner. the previous owner said he took it to the garage for a crank oil seal leak. when he went to collect the car they had removed the head saying oil was leaking from the gasket. he towed it away and i bought it. i have refitted the head. the engine runs smooth at idle. when i first start up in the morning there is a loud rattle for a second or so. it sounds like a diesel starting up. when i am driving it hesitates and seems to lose power. also at a certain position on the accelerator pedal this rattle is there. it goes away when i accelerate more.
View 12 RepliesI have owned this car for six months. The car now has 39K. The problem is getting worse.
Re: Lexus 2011 LS460 AWD
Subject: Hesitation / momentary loss of power when accelerating after turn.
When accelerating after a sharp turn with light to moderate acceleration, the car will have a momentary loss of power for about 1, 2, or even 3 seconds. This does not happen often, but perhaps once every two weeks and I cannot replicate the problem despite attempting to do so.
In all cases, I am talking about DRY pavement. It always happens after a sharp turn usually to the right. (Probably because most sharp turns are to the right actually it only happened once on a left turn that I will describe below.) Acceleration is light to moderate NOT hard acceleration.
In one case it caused a serious situation. I had just purchased gas and was entering a busy freeway. When accelerating, the engine had a total loss of power for a couple seconds as a large semi truck bore down on me with its air horns blaring.
I have a strong clue that may debug this problem. Once, when turning left, the car suffered a total loss of power. There was no traffic and I kept my foot lightly on the throttle. The car remained unresponsive. The engine did not stop, but it did not respond and remained this way for at least 5 seconds until I took my foot off the accelerator and then back on to the accelerator. During this period of suspended throttle, I noticed that on the right side of the dash an orange alert symbol was flashing I think it was a swerving car? I assume this indicated that the car was losing traction and the computer decided to cut power until traction was regained. But the pavement was dry, and the acceleration was normal. In no case did I ever sense that one of the wheels was slipping.