My 2003 Camry has po301 fault code also have same code showing as pending. Can't find nothing on google regarding duplicate codes . The car starts fine, runs fine, idles fine. Excellent at high speeds I don't think the car is misfiring . Could it be a bad sensor giving me a false reading .
View 6 RepliesSo I have been chain a no hot start issue. Found a bad top o ring seal for injector #2 replaced the o ring put it all back together did an air test seemed good not 100% sure I don't have another leak. Still problem starting. But I am now running rough and I have a pending p0264. What's up?
View 10 RepliesI am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
Alright I have a 01 F250 with the 7.3L in it. Recently had the turbo rebuilt and all the surrounding gaskets changed as well as boots. All this was done around 1,000 miles ago. Runs great and I don't see/feel any issues, no white smoke anytime, little black when I turn up the tuner and really ride the thing but normal driving none. Problem is I have a pending P1247 code that after a few days will throw a CEL... I'm not sure what the problem is and have been searching the forum and people are mostly saying they get it but the boost drops or there isn't any at all and the truck my stall or bog down. I don't have any of those problems. Turbo spools up to whatever I want and I've never had it stall or bog or even get close... So what should I check? Also new to the site and diesels.
View 14 RepliesI just purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 It has really high miles on it as it was a landscaping companies fleet truck. I'm sure that it was pretty well serviced as it has 300K miles on it and it's still running pretty decent.
I picked up the truck and I have to get the smog done soon. It idles with what I can only describe as a slight miss and it runs and drives great. seems to have plenty of power for the miles that's on it.
There is no active CEL on but I scanned the OBDII system and found a P0171 Lean bank 1 code in the pending codes list of the scanner. I guess this year engine doesn't have an EGR Valve or DPFE sensor because I've looked high and low for it and there non existent on this engine.
I've checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner or carb cleaner all over the place and it makes no difference and all the vacuum lines and connections look okay.
When it's running It does sound like a vacuum leak right behind the top of the plastic throttle body but I can't find it, I don't know if this big *** engine just sucks that much air or what.
Like I said I need to smog this thing soon and I don't want it to fail if it's missing or has another issue. The fuel injectors look new and one coil pack looks like it's a replacement...
Just got a 98 f150 w/ 5.4 4x4 excab. It idles fine but under light accleration. It starts bucking and missing bad, if I step on it, it down shifts and accelerates fine. If I try to maintain one speed it misses bad. It is not throwing any codes right now. The check engine light did come on for like a minute but went back off before I could have it read. I hooked up a scanner just to see if any codes were stored and got p0300 and p0301. I am going to clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks. I hear the rear plug and coils can get water in them causing similar problems.
View 8 RepliesMy 97 F150 through a CEL Tuesday night P0301 so I picked up a new plug because it's cheap and simple, but that didn't do anything. Spark plug wires are about 3 months old, I also swapped injectors between 1 and 2, and misfire stayed with cylinder 1. It also gained a tap when the misfire started but only above idle, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock.
I also noticed if you unplug injector 1at idle it taps/knocks 3 or 4 times, however if you unplug any of the others it doesn't do that. I checked and I definitely have good spark from the plug. I plan on picking up a new compression tester tomorrow since mine never was returned. If you take the oil fill cap off it doesn't have any blow by at idle, however if you rev it you get a quick cloud out of it.
I thought about picking up a kit to check the injector pulse.
My wife's 03 Passat w/ 1.8t is bucking and lurching throwing a P0301 (Cyl 1 misfire) code. We have about 58k on the engine and had the dealer do the 40k service 2 years ago.
So far I replaced cyl 1 spark plug, swapped and then replace coil pack with new. My choices for parts were limited on a Friday night and these are el cheapo Autozone parts. Still missing and throwing DTC, I don't really have access to Vag-Com anymore (just OBD reader at parts store) and I don't have a Bentley's either (I know there's some eye rolling going on now).
How to troubleshoot the cause so I can make a decision to take to mechanic or do a few more parts swaps between now and Monday. I've got tools and a multi-meter. I used to have Vag-Com but it isn't supported on my new laptop (Vista), I tried the USB extension cord on my desktop but it is hit and miss.
I am at about my wits end with this P0301 (Misfire On Cylinder #1) code on my 2003 Ford F150 4.6L. I've replaced the coil pack on that cylinder, all the spark plugs, and replaced the fuel injector on that cylinder. We keep clearing the code and it keeps on coming back.
The weird thing is that it only misfires after the truck has set for a few hours and then it only misfires when I first put it in gear. Once I am out of the driveway and on the road it's fine for most of the day unless I let it sit for several hours and then it might misfire again.
We noticed that the connector to the fuel injector is wobbly and doesn't snap tight to the fuel injector (before and after it was replaced) due to the clips on the side not working well. We zip tied it together this afternoon to make it fit tightly to the fuel injector to see if that works.
What could be causing this? Other than that misfire the engine sounds great and the trucks runs very well.
I have a 98 F150 4.2L with code P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire.
This is what I have done so far. New plugs, coil pack, plug wires, TPS, EGR, EGR Vacuum control regualier, DMCP, canister, all of these parts are new and was bought from the ford place. Have taken the egr value, and egr value bracket off to see if carbon blockage was present, but it was clean. It was clean in the motor also. Have blown air through the metal tube that connects to the egr value and it come out the tail pipe very good, so no blockage their. Have cleaned throtle body and injectors. Have tested fuel injector with tester and it works correctly. Motor holder pressure. Have correct fuel pressure.
Do not have any vacuum leaks, it holds vacuum correctly. Crankshaft sensor is fine. Went throw 4 cans of break parts cleaner, spraying on intake while motor was running, motor did not idle up or change. I have done all this and it still shows code P0301, and it still skips. Here's the catch, if you unplug the vaccum off the egr the misfire goes away, or unplug the EGR vacuum control regulator it goes away, or if you unplug the DMCP sensor it goes away, it does not matter witch one you unplug, the misfire goes away.
I have had several different test done the the truck, but all the test only show that one code P0301, they do not show any other codes, or problem's with my truck.
I have an 05, 2.0 TDI which recently got a a PO118 fault. My mechanic replaced the green top sensor with one with a blue top (having been told that the green top sensors have been updated to blue). I am still getting an occasional PO118 fault but now the auxiliary (a/c) fan or the radiator starts running within a few seconds of start up, A/C on or not. SO, bad sensor, wrong sensor or something else entirely?
View 2 RepliesI bought 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4 couple of months ago, Been running good with no issues , no check engine light . Today I had it detailed from the inside and got it clean at a shop , then took it and changed the transmission Oil at Jiffylube . after leaving the shop the engine light came on . I then took it to a local Auto car parts and had used a car diagnostics scanner to see what was the problem and this showed up P0705 Transmission Range Sensor . I deleted it , then while driving around town , it came back on . I live in Minnesota and it is very cold here, not sure if the cold weather have to do anything with it, but i doubt it. The car looks and seems to be running ok .
View 5 RepliesSo I had a P0606 code which points to a PCM/ECU fault. It would come and go and not really cause much of a problem with driving. It did stall once but it started right back up. The light would come on for half a day and go off. Rinse and repeat......
The dealer replaced it today under my extended warranty. Sure enough, the CEL returned today. I haven't had the code read but I can only assume it will be P0606 again.
I recently replaced my MAF on the car with part number 06A 906 461 A which is not the 07D 906 461 part number. I take it that this is wrong because i am getting power surging in the car at WOT and I have a pending DTC code P0103.
View 1 RepliesI have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
View 1 RepliesHonda Civic, 2003, around 180k miles. Code P1457 is showing, no drive ability problems. Everything seems to point to the evap canister valve as a common problem. I crawl under next weekend and start replacing parts...
View 5 RepliesAll of all sudden, my car is complaining a airbag fault, VCDS scan fault code as below, Does it mean all 10 airbags in my Phaeton is no longer working ?!
Address 15: Airbags
Labels: 3D0-909-601.lbl
Part No: 3D0 909 601 E
Component: 0G Airbag 8.4E+ H10 0934
Coding: 0012359
[Code] ....
Today my Check Engine Light came on for the first time in years on my 1998 Ford Ranger. It has 363,000 miles on it. But the engine was changed about 150,000 miles ago. It's a 2.5 automatic. It runs good and has no problems until today. I was leaving a shop and when I started up the truck the Check Engine Light came on. It wasn't idling bad but when I went to take off it wouldn't hardly move. I wasn't even able to keep driving. So I stopped and turned it off and restarted it. Then the Check Engine Light was gone and it ran fine. I scanned it when I got home and it a Pending code of P0446.
I've never gotten this one before. It said something was wrong with the fuel vapor vent solenoid open or shorted. I've never replaced anything on the evaporative emission system except a hose under the hood 3 or 4 years ago. I've had to change the fuel pump a couple times. I've never had any wiring issues. I've never hacked into the wiring. I've owned it since it was new. Is it likely that solenoid is failing or the vapor canister is shot? I don't need this to happen again because even if it's in what was called limp mode. there's no way I could've driven it home like that. I couldn't even pull over. I was lucky I was still in a parking lot.
My truck is showing code p1277. The only time I really notice anything is cold mornings like we been this week. Low 50s. When I first start it in the morning the engine light goes on and off until the truck is completely warmed up. Could it be the injector going bad?
2003 f250 7.3 with 415000 miles. Stock injectors
I have a 1995 f-250 7.3 liter diesel engine. Truck starts fine and runs good for a while and then it will stall. I pull over and after a couple of attempts it will start and run fine for a while. I have changed the fuel filter and put fresh fuel in but it still stalls.
View 7 RepliesI took a one owner 2009 with 100,00 miles for a pre-inspection today. All came back in fairly good shape however the mechanic ( an independent shop ) found this error code P1455. I took the car back to the dealer & said I was interested in the car if they looked into whether the gas tank would need to be replaced. The parts manager gave my husband and I a long speech about how they checked the car before it was traded in and never found this code. He explained that the code has to appear twice for the " check engine light " to come on. He told us he would take the car for a test drive himself & put it thru another diagnostic test to see if he could get another error reading. He will be getting back to us tomorrow. The dealer also said we could discuss in writing a timeline for them to repair it if the check engine light come on & ultimately a repair is needed.
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