I have a 2003 camry v6 that doesn't start. There is no power to the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position. Where is the relay for the fuel pump?
View 2 RepliesOk I have recently bought a 1998 Ford F-150 V6 4.2L 2WD and when the guy sold it to me the check engine light was on and he told me that randomly when you turn the key to the on position you will not hear the fuel pump buzzing sound and he knew it wouldn't start, he said you would have to turn the key from the on and off position many times until you hear this sound and then the truck will start and run fine.
First off I got the codes read and there were three of them P0171, P0174, and P1537 some things to note are that the drivers air bag looks like it had deployed, the cover is loose and when I pulled it back the air bag looks duct taped up inside there that would cause the air bag light to continuously flash while driving. I noticed the battery leads were corroded so I replaced the battery and put new battery clamps on both wires, after that the problem did not happen for a week and I though it was over but it happened again.
Next is that the truck has the PATS system and it did not come with a remote which I have also read that the PATS system can cause the fuel pump not to turn on but not sure if this would cause it to not start randomly because sometimes it starts right up. When I started to look at the simple things to fix I noticed it did not have an air filter in the housing. so I thought the MAF sensor could be dirty so I cleaned it with the special cleaner, I put sea foam into the intake via a vacuum hose and also have put a fuel system cleaner in a full tank and have driven most of the gas out. After putting in an air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor, and sea foaming the intake, it seems to run a bit better but I am still having the random fuel pump issue.
I have checked the fuses and the and the fuel pump and ECM relays both are fine. Today I put new exhaust on it because it had some bad exhaust leaks and the truck did not start again, so the guy trying to put my exhaust on, hit the fuel tank with a hammer and it didn't work then hit it again and it finally worked. Im not sure if the hitting it did it or if it just randomly turned on like always from turning the key on and off. The new exhaust has made a huge difference in driving it feels and sounds much better.
Also to note is that when I am stopped at stop lights it will idle at about 1500 and then it drops down to 500 and back up and back down again and it does this at most stop lights, and it is not an abrupt drop it just slowly idles down and back up again. Again once the truck is started it runs perfectly fine with no issues, and there are no specific times when it has the problem it seems to be randomly. I know that many people will tell me to change the fuel pump out and I am already prepared for this but if there is any easy things I haven't thought of yet...
The other day, my father-in-law was driving my '91 Explorer and it just died on him. I assumed that the fuel pump quit becuase it wouldn't come on when the switch was turned on. I had a brand new lying around so I dropped the tank and put it in but it still won't work. I checked the inertia switch and it wasn't tripped. There is no power coming to the new pump at all. When the switch is turned on, there is a noticeable "click" inside the engine bay. Would that be the fuel pump relay making that "click"?
View 7 Replies01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
View 14 Replies2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
I have a 2003 F250 and dont have power at fuel pump, or fuse #30. I put power directly to fuel pump and it worked and truck fired right up.
View 13 RepliesThere was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
View 9 RepliesI was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
View 10 RepliesI've got a 1997 4x4 xlt with a recently rebuilt engine less than 2000 miles on it I just replaced the fuel filter fuel pump and the relay and what's wrong some times the fuel pump will turn on sometimes it won't don't know what to do now. It turns over just not getting fuel I'm know the pump isn't getting power since I can't hear it kick on...
View 2 RepliesIts a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
View 5 RepliesI have a 94 Corolla with 239 K After pulling into my drive way and turning the car off I went back to start it ..Car turned over but no start ...ok backed the car out of the drive used the other car . Came back the next day car started pulled it back into the driveway ....Went to start it again later that day ..no start this happened for a couple of days ..It would start and then it wouldn’t..... Checked the fuel pump ..its not working ..The relay is good ..
There is power coming into the fuel pump but. Only one lead with power ...I power the fuel pump direct and it works ...I take it to a shop to have them look at it and they say I have no spark and that there is power going to my fuel pump ..he said there was power but he did not say if the fuel pump worked ...The gas gauge works but the fuel pump still .
So the fuel pump works if i power it direct and I have no spark ..so I could change the distributor & coil and go back to checking ground wires to the fuel pump BUT anything else going on that might be causing these issues. The car was running perfect before this happened.
The relay for the fuel pump keeps going bad. Is this a sign my fuel pump is going ? I just replaced my 2nd relay ( lasted about 1 week ) 1st lasted 16 years. Or is there another issue to look at ?
View 11 RepliesExperiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine is off?
View 2 RepliesSo the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
View 1 RepliesI was wondering if it is possible, due to budget, to perform the electric fuel pump conversion in steps. By that I mean could I remove the mechanical pump and install the electric pump on the frame, but retain the stock filter housing and regulator? I would use high pressure hose and run from the stock pump supply line on top of the engine to the fuel bowl inlet and then use high pressure to run to a three way fitting, and a bit more hose to join the fitting to the stock lines running to the head. later as budget allow I will replace the filter assembly and regulator and then the lines to the heads.
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn off the wiper blades on my 1997 Toyota Camry they do not return to the home or lowest position. They stop at whatever spot they happen to be. The wipers work OK on both slow speed and fast speed. Also the intermittent function is no longer working. In this position the wiper blades operate cintinually in the slow speed. What could be the causing this problem? Could it be the wiper switch on the steering column, the wiper motor, or some other component such as a fuse or relay?
View 5 Replies1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
View 8 RepliesExperiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine os off?
View 8 RepliesMy daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
View 14 RepliesWent to start my truck (2003, 7.3 F250) one evening and I found the headlights on. No keys in the ignition and the truck hadn't been driven for 2 days. There was a strong smell of plastic and or electrical components burning in the cab. The truck started without a problem. I shut it off and the lights remained on. Cycling the MFS and light switch would not turn the lights off. I had to disconnect the batteries and leave it till time allowed for trouble shooting.
I've had it in my shop for three months now and this is what I've found so far.
-Source of the burn smell is coming from the fuse panel. More specific it's coming from a bulkhead that plugs into the panel. One pin connected to a White wire with 2 purple traces. I've traced this wire to one of 2 small relay packs in the engine compartment next to the driver side fender. I've replaced the relay this white/purple wire connects to as a precaution. This did not remedy my trouble.
-The local ford dealer told me this relay was for the A/C clutch. I located a 10amp fuse in position 10 and removed it. The headlights finally turned off.
-I started the truck and the A/C compressor clutch still engaged and ran. Smoke began to pour from the fuse panel once again. I killed the truck and head lights remained off. All done with the fuse in position 10 removed.
Here's where it gets weird!
-With the key/engine off and I turn the headlight switch on and MFS to low beam the fuel pump is running. Change the MFS to high beams and the fuel pump turns off.
I've looked over the wiring harness and there are no noticeable problems indicating multiple wires being shorted. How are all these issues related?