I'll be working on an 03 camry this weekend with a small oil leak coming from the alternator and headers area. I know For sure its a gasket that will need replacing but which one and how difficult is it? On the last pic there's a blue circle ;the leak is from that area.....
View 3 RepliesI've noticed a leak of antifreeze in my 2003 Camry LE 4 cylinder and did some investigating to find its source. I did. What I don't know (because I can't really get to it to remove and replace it) is its part number or even a descriptive name.
I've attached a photo. It's directly to the drivers side of the valve cover/engine block.
Just purchased a 2003 GX470 with 160k and after the low brake fluid light came on I noticed the master cylinder had a leak. After removing the cover it appears the fluid has leaked for quite some time as the paint has started pealing from the frame. The brakes however appear to be working correctly. Upon purchase the front calipers were seized and I replaced both front calipers.
After having someone depress the brake pedal while I watched, the fluid leaks from the end of the master cylinder each time pedal is pressed in.
After doing some research it appears there is a rebuild kit for the master cylinder.
Looking for if the camry 5sfe cylinder head from 92 to 01 will fit a 94 camry?
View 3 Replieswhats the best way to clean a 97 f150 5.4 cyl head
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
A local mechanic tells me I have a blown head gasket on my 2003 Saab 9-5. He also said there's coolant standing in one cylinder. If this is due to stretched head bolts, might I remedy the problem by replacing the head bolts and torqueing to specifications?
View 4 RepliesI have a problem nobody can figure out. My check engine light is on. Took it to Advance to have it scanned; came backwith Code 1226, Brake warning light ground short ( not concerned that at this time); Code P1285, cylinder head over temperature; and P1299, engine overheating (this repeated 4 times).
Now for the symptoms: Truck start and runs good, except with engine light on, runs about 4 miles, then the temperature gauge goes all way up, oil light come on (But oil pressure gauge is OK), Have loss power, and heater has no heat. I shut key off, restart, runs perfect, gauges OK, heater OK.
I have an oil leak where the HPOP hose attaches to the cylinder head. I have the removal tool for the hose. I assume I need a new fitting. What's the torque spec for this fitting, and any additional tips I need for doing this repair?
View 11 RepliesMy wife is talking to someone about purchasing a 1998 4.6 4x4 EB Expedition. The owner says the only issue is a tick coming from the driver's side head. He claims the shop told him it was "just a cam stator". Now, say what you will, but I've dabbled just enough with mod motors (2v and 3v, 4.6's and 5.4's) to feel like I'd rather stick to old pushrods. I've never heard of a "cam stator" on a 2v 4.6. I also realize that stator is a word that gets tossed around a bit by people who don't fully understand what it is.
Now, this is a relatively high mileage engine (something like 220k I think) so I know it could be a whole slew of things from cracked/leaking exhaust mani, lifters, timing chain, etc. But, in all my searching, "2v 4.6 cam stator" keeps leading me to people troubleshooting pushrod distributors, 3v VVT troubleshooting, and alternator related posts. Is this such a thing, what this shop may have been trying to refer to? He claims it's done it for about 5 years now, and runs perfectly fine. I'm leaning towards lifter, but the truck is 3 hours away so I haven't got to check it out yet....
I was draining my separator and noticed some oil accumulating on the bottom of the cylinder head right under the oil fill on the drivers side. My truck is 12 days out of engine warranty.
It's last service was probably around a year ago when the engine was torn down to replace the exhaust valves per the TSB.
Ok I got this truck from my mother-in-law for free with a blown head gasket cylinder 6 driver side. I did the replacement had the heads machined put it all back together by the book. Now I can't get it to fire on all 6 cylinders only 5 I think. Thought maybe bad gas (it sat since late November) put 5 gallons (over double the gas) fresh gas and half a bottle of b-12 chem tool. Dubble checked all plugs wires connections (coils plugs wires all new). I drove for about 10 miles oil pressure and temperature stayed perfect but no change in running truck shakes a lot and no real power. Don't sputter or backfire no engine codes other than imcr bank 2 open. Engine is 4.2l v-6 170k miles.
View 2 RepliesAfter replacing most of the underside of my Super Duty, Complete front end, backing plates, brakes, rotors and shocks, I have a misfire code on cylinder #4. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the MAS and filter and rotated the coil to cylinder #1. Still have a misfire on #4 and noticed the coolant slightly low and some condensation on the oil cap. Could this be the intake gasket? My mechanic is away for 2 weeks and I think the price at the dealer will kill me. I have 63K on the truck, don't tow and plow mostly family members. It's getting a little rusty but is still in good shape.
View 13 RepliesIs this job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item? I replaced the rear fuel rail plug (aka banjo bolt) o-rings because they were very easy to get to with the up-pipes out. But the cylinder head plug in the rear is pretty high up and even with the up-pipes out, there isn't enough room to get a breaker in there that's long enough and has enough movement to loosen it. The front would be easier to get to, but both accessory brackets need to come off to get to them on both sides.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old... BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
What are the hose lengths for the 2 HPOP and cylinder head oil crossover line? How about what size oring boss fittings you need into the head?
View 1 RepliesJust checked out at 2003 V6 LE with 120k miles for $5500. Car seems to be in excellent mechanical condition but I did notice quite a significant power steering fluid leak, seems to be coming from the reservoir. I see that there are two hoses for about $80 each listed on Partsgeek.
Is this a common problem, can the clamps just be tightened, Could it be the reservoir it's self or even the pump too high a pressure?
Seems to be quite a lot of fluid running down the side of the car but after taking it for a test drive I didn't see any signs of it squirting out so perhaps it's a slow leak and been leaking for a while.
I have a 1990 legacy and just replaced the water pump gasket and now it is leaking out of an upper bolt head on the pump and how to cure this....
View 1 RepliesYesterday my 2003 camry has kicking noise from head. i am not sure it is broken valve or the VVTi broken. the oil look like silver. There is no cel code and car run ok.
View 7 RepliesI bought a 94 2.3 did a head job bought a rebuilt head and got it all back together hooked up the battery and blew the fusible link to the alternator. Did I screw something up? I have been rebuilding engines for a long time and never had this happen. Tested the alternator and the O'Reilly guy said that the Voltage regulator was shot putting out 17 amps and that is why the fusable link blew. I don't think that's right because the engine was not running I just hooked up the battery, and no I did not switch the pos and neg. I'm dumb but not that dumb. Any guesses?
View 1 RepliesI own a 2003 Toyota Camry with 195,000 miles. We have owned the car for about 6 years. It is now leaking oil from the drivers side of the head gasket. The oil has been leaking down onto the exhaust and smoking, and it has been getting worse and worse. This is a second car and is not used much, only once a month for short trips. Is there any temporary fix for this that can maybe get me through a year? Also, I have heard mixed opinions on how hard replacing the head gasket is, does the engine really need to be removed?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry V6. It has about 170,000 m on it. When you start the engine, of course it starts at a high idle speed and every time. And, every time there was the ominous clatter of dry engine (probably rod bearings if i had to guess) for a few seconds until there was oil pressure. Probably not too harmful, but it was one of those things that bothers you?! I'm guessing I am not the only one with this happening so that's why I made this post.
The older the engine got the more this bothered me. It's probably "normal", and if you emailed or called Toyota I'm guessing that's what a tech would tell you, but still...to get rid of this clatter I tried every additive there is. Slick 50, Duralube, Marvel Mystery oil (In my view probably useful only for cleaning-do not use in the gas!) STP. NOT ONE of these had the slightest effect on the clatter.
Then I finally tried Lucas oil additive at an oil change. This stuff claims to stick to the metal inside the engine and protect it during a dry start. Well it DOES do what it claims to do! (This is as rare as chicken teeth in the market of automotive products). No more clatter!