Camry :: 2003 - Light Banging / Tapping Noise Coming From Intake Manifold Area
Mar 17, 2013
I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the car drives normally.
I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] .....
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl. around 60,000 miles on odometer and for around 3 months the engine seems to have gotten louder while at idle. At the back of the engine around the plastic intake manifold area the engine is making a light banging / tapping noise. It never made this noise before. The engine idles fine and the drives normally. I always keep an eye on the fluid levels and they are up to par. I'm not sure what is going on and if I should just keep an eye on it. I have provided a link below to a video of the noise. The noise can be heard best starting around 15 seconds into the video and fades away around 26 seconds into the video. [URL] ....
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It makes a weird 'fppp' air shooting noise before the exhaust note and my 2003 gti vr6 makes the exact same noise. It sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold valve and not really the filter, but I'm not sure and yes my filter is clean, the noise also sounds a little bit more obnoxious and problematic in real life. What it is, I thought it was a vacuum leak but I don't wanna bring it in till i know exactly what it is,
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So I just installed a fresh 4.6 long-block in my '98 4x4 xlt and I have a noise coming from the manifold area. Thought it was possibly valves or timing chain. Took it to dealer and they diagnosed it as the Intake Manifold Runner Control. Never heard of it!!! Problem is, I can't find that part for this motor. Is it inside the intake? Do I have to replace the whole intake? Dealer didn't tell me, once I said I would do the work myself.
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I recently started getting a light tapping noise coming from the front passenger side tire wheel area. It almost sound like a nail stuck in the tire, but lighter in sound and there is nothing stuck in the tire........
Here's the kicker: It only happens when I turn LEFT!!!! I checked and there is nothing obvious that sticks out to touch the tire when it turns...
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Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
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2016 LTD Ultimate, 2700 miles. First and only Hyundai for the moment.
I've experience this one twice, a few weeks apart: cold start the car, and in the first 100 yards or so I'll hear a tapping noise that's clearly rotational, varies with speed but eventually ceases. Sounds like it's coming from front passenger wheel well area, and sounds like a stick or some sort of debris is stuck in the wheel. Both times I've inspected the area and found nothing whatsoever.
I live in an apartment complex area, park in a lot always in reverse so I'm always going from park to drive. The area I live in is wooded ("Pine Barrens" region of Long Island) but the roads are paved so it's not like I'm driving thru wilderness.
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Finally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
[URL] .....
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just got finished putting her back together from a blown intake manifold gasket and run for a few miles to get rid of any cob webs and then my battery light comes on. just replaced the battery last week. and I tested the alternator and it charging at 14.5 volts bat reads when disconnected 12.9 volts so I am not sure why my battery light will come on.
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Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
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I drive a 1992 325is,(auto) with 150K... a few weeks ago only when racing or hard acceleration there was banging or clunking, coming from under the E-brake area, almost sounded and felt like the back tires hopping up and down as if i where chirping gears in a riced honda. The tranny IS NOT slipping or banging etc.
Now over time it has progressively gotten worse, it started doing it when rpms jump, now i cant even accelerate, I have to feather the gas OH SO lightly or else, it clangs and bangs almost sounding like the drivetrain is slapping against the chassis. i have to accelerate extremely slowly, and lightly or else it clanks and bangs, it takes me 5 mins to get to 40mph. Can it be the guibo? or mount that keeps the drivashaft in place?
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I bought a used 2006 Toyota Camry Sportivo from a local Toyota dealership not too long ago. Unfortunately, when I bought the car I also bought a flexing/tapping noise coming from the sunroof with it. I believe the problem here lies in the fact that the back right hand corner of the sunroof appears to have a little more play as opposed to the other side which causes a flexing/tapping noise when driving the vehicle. Toyota had the car for nearly to weeks to fix the problem, however, when I picked up vehicle it appeared that they had only lubricated all the moving parts, but not fixed the problem. The sunroof is factory fitted, so I do not think it should be making that kind of noise.
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I have a small clicking sound coming from my intake manifold. I recently installed a boost gauge and it did it once after that... I shut the car off and I didn't hear again until 1000 miles later and its back, why it would be clicking like this but its annoying
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I have a 01 vr6 mk4 gti. When I bought the car I noticed a rattle but never paid mind to it. But now I just want it fixed. I hear the rattle come from the back of the engine near the intake manifold when I rev it a little. The most rpms the louder the rattle . I been doing some research and came to a conclusion that it could be the shift rod and bad intake bushing. But, I'll like a link on how to replace the shift rod.
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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My friend and I are working on her '03 1.8t and I noticed a huge oil leak under the intake manifold. It looks like there's a tube that has broken off and is now just spewing oil all over the place. I tried to get pics the best I could, so here they are....
I'd imagine its something that needs to be fixed asap.
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I have a chamfering noise coming from my intake manifold on idle. sometimes its there and sometimes its not, it goes away with any application of throttle.
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I took my Monte in for the annual Missouri Safety Inspection. Note: I had no known problems with my 2003 Monte SS 117K Miles. After the inspection, which passed, I was informed of a variety of problems: Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, Valve Cover Gasket w/Intake replacement, Thermostat w/Intake Removal, Fuel Injector O-Rings w/Intake Removal.
My question is should I have all of this done? It's not cheap..roughly 1000 bucks. I know very little about this and I don't want to just tell my mechanic to do it without some research. Are these common problems with Monte's of this age/mileage and just part of the cost of owning this car. I am the original owner and have avoiding costly repairs/maintenance..it's been a great car.
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'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
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I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
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I am about to replace the intake manifold and gaskets. I know all of that process, but first question is if there is anything i should do whilst in there. Second question; what can I do with my intake to get more power? Mainly just kind of wondering before I get my parts ordered.
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