Camry :: 2003 LE V6 Stall All Of A Sudden When Being Driven At 74 Mph
Jan 14, 2016
P0300, P0301, P0303, P0305, P0032, P0052, All this happened after the car was being driven at 74 mph all of a sudden it started to stall and had to pull over to unfortunately get a wrecker back home, no previous issues, original owner 2003 camry le v6 now has 230k. I changed the fuel pump/filter, changed the coils, changed the plugs, removed the firewall bank 1 catalytic, looks good still, I do have a video of the car as soon as it got home off the wrecker running rough...
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Bought this car new and really haven't had any major issues until the last month. It's a 2003, six-speed, inline 4, 1.8L engine. When I came to a stop, the engine just died and would not restart until I let it "rest" for a couple of minutes. It restarted and ran fine. This same thing happened again a week or so later.
Then, just yesterday, I was doing about 65 on the interstate and the engine died, tach dropped to 0, but I didn't lose power steering or brakes. I was coasting for a few seconds and the engine came back. When I slowed down to pull into a parking garage, it died but I was coasting enough to pop the clutch and it restarted for a moment allowing me to almost get into a parking stall. As I slowed to get into the stall it died completely and had to be pushed into the stall.
I left it there for a few hours. When I got back, it started and ran fine. I feel this is just the beginning of some problem with the electronic control module/unit.
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2005 Hyundai Accent stalled on freeway today. It was running fine and suddenly stalled without warning. I tried to restart but the engine doesn't turnover just makes a electrical "weeee" sound. Battery works and lights work. Code reader gave P0340 and P0134 codes.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction bank 1 single sensor
probable causes:
-Open of short circuit condition
-poor electrical connection
-Faulty CMP sensor
-Engine Mechanical fault
P0134-Heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 (H02S11) circuit no activity detected
Probable cause:
-Poor electrical connection
-Rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio
-Engine mechanical condition
-Faulty H02S11 (Bank 1 sensor 1)
I'd like to fix it myself; where should I start?
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2003 Camry V6 145,000 km. original starter, alternator, battery new replaced 2 months ago.
Scenario #1 - vehicle does not crank. electricity is flowing (instrument panel lights on, can even alarm lock). started after hitting both the starter and battery terminal.
Scenario #2 - vehicle cranks from parking stall. Reverse backing out 3 feet, car dies, instrument panel lights are on.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4cylinder. On first start of the day the engine shakes a little untill it warms up and is driven for about 2 blocks. After that it is smooth. I cleaned what I could of the throttle body on the car, changed spark plugs and PCV. All that worked but cold start shake still there.
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This has happened 3 times now in the last couple of months. After driving on wet roads, our 2003 Mazda3 won't start. It won't even crank or turnover (primary vs. secondary ignition). All of the other electronics come on when you turn the key, but nothing from under the hood. After a while of presumably drying out... anywhere from 15 minutes to hours, it starts again. I'm thinking something is shorting, but what.
Mechanic can't figure it out... but he's only had it for a day, and it's been dry, and starting fine.
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I have a 2003 Super Duty 6.0. The trouble started almost all at once. It started fine, then I drove it for a while and on hot start, it cranked for a long time before starting. This went on for a few days, then today it wouldn't restart even when cool after not being driven for hours. I have a code P2285 and code P2285 P that has been on for a month or so. I know that the P2285 is the ICP. I don't know and can't find out what the "P" is at the end of the code. Anyways, I want to repair it myself. I have experience doing pretty major repairs, so it doesn't scare me. The problem is I am new to the diesel world. So come one and come all with possible scenarios and I will Go right down the list.
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03 focus SE Wagon, Automatic Tran, has a bit of a problem. Whenever it gets driven through a puddle (big, small, paddling pool, etc.) it will make this high pitch squealing noise, and then when it gets shut off after driving through said puddle, will have trouble starting. (It will turn over, catch, run for .2 seconds & then the engine will cut out, but all the electronics will work) THEN! if you can get it started, it needs to be reeved constantly or it will stall when it idles. Lastly, if the conditions are ridiculously horrible, & you need to go some place, you have to '2 foot drive' the little beauty to whereever you're going. Now, she's been in to see the Ford mechanics and has 'stumped' them.
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I've got a 2010 Camry. I've had it since new and it's been pretty well maintained. Recently, I've been having an issue where it cuts like it wants to stall out when I stop after driving.
The idle will also surge, but it's a small surge, from like 750 rpm to 1,000 and then back to 750. Last night after driving, it dropped to around 500rpm for s second and I thought it was going to stall, but it didn't.
I love the car, so I'm hoping it's not a serious issue. 6 speed manual with about 130,000 miles. Other than this and a small exhaust leak, it's running great.
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We've brought our 1999 Camry to our mechanic twice for a starting problem to no avail because it never happens while it's there. So cliche right? About half the time it has trouble starting and the rest of the time it starts and operates fine.
These troublesome starts: * typically idle very low then stall completely if you try to put it in gear * sometimes, but very rarely, stall immediately * sometimes giving it a tiny bit of gas seems to prevent stalling * eventually, after 1-2 minutes, the engine begins running normally (usually i just sit there and wait and can feel the obvious/sudden change from idling low to a normal idle
It just passed the CA smog test and the mechanic couldn't find any problem. What should I do?
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My 2001 toyota camry is great but has an intermittent, annoying problem no one can diagnose or correct. If I drive for a while at top highway speed (say 65mph) and then have to come to a stop (to pay toll or stop light) I get a very rough idle and then the car stalls. Have had new plugs, wires, coil, radiator already done to solve problem. Check engine light never comes on. Can also drive lengthy trip and it doesn't happen.
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We have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
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We are finding that recently the dash vents will suddenly blast out cold air and the A/C light comes on in our 2013 Camry. The dealer just gave my wife some excuse about humidity etc. This is without having made any adjustments. This is my wife's car but I experienced it myself last week. I said what the heck is that all about and she then told me that it just started acting up.
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This is on a 2013 Toyota Camry XLE that has the V6. It has approximately 1,200 miles on it. This has happened six times since new. Sometimes, when at a complete stop, turning into traffic, using approximately less than quarter throttle (just enough to enter traffic) the vehicle has hesitated and bogged down almost to a stall. The operator isn't a "two foot" driver and the throttle is held steady. We've had it looked at twice, road tested both times without replication, ran diagnostics the second time and cleared the ECM and TCM so all learning values were reset. There are no TSBs or recalls that we know of. Its quite a safety concern being stuck when pulling into traffic.
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So I have a 2011 Camry XLE with the touchscreen navigation. For a few months now, I've had problems where all of a sudden the audio would just stop working. The screen would gray out and I can't change any of the settings even if I am parked. I tried turning off my car and turning it back on, because that sometimes fixed the problem, but now it just doesn't work at all. I took it to a friend, who is a mechanic, and he said he can't really find anything wrong with it. When I get this problem, I can't adjust the volume from the steering wheel or the main volume dial and nothing beeps when I press it, like it usually should.
A few other things to note. When it does work, I will drive normally, but if I accelerate too fast or turn too hard, it cuts off again. Is this a problem I can troubleshoot myself or should I go for an aftermarket radio? Although, I prefer to have navigation.
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The RPM gauge began surging, which caused my car to stall. Restarted the car and the surging began again as well as the check engine light came on. After a mile or so, the surging stopped and the engine light went off. Drove to Toyota dealership, ran diagnostic and was told 'possible' air fuel filter problem. No surging since the diagnostic. Should I follow-up and have this looked into or just let it be? 2009 XLE 4 Cylinder ....
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My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
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On Sunday my son was driving my wife's '03 Passat GLX 2.8 4motion station wagon when he received a "stop engine" warning and noted the temp was climbing past 250. Good lad that he is he stopped immediately and noted much steam and coolant originating at the rear of the engine. My hope is that it's just a hose since there is no coolant or smell in the interior (just went through the nightmare of a heater core on my '96 Jetta!) We had it flatbedded to our home but I haven't had time to make a further investigation and was hoping for some insight from those here as to how I should proceed in diagnosing/repairing this issue.
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My 2003 Jeep Cherokee totally died all of a sudden. No lights, no locks, nothing. I am skeptical that its the battery because of how sudden this happened.
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My 03 (129k miles, 2.7 AWD) is up to date on all maint (this summer saw new timing belt etc., transmission service) and oil is current. Spark plugs are due at 131k. Air filter is new, tire pressure maintained at 30-32psi.
MPG has consistently been ~20, slightly more on trips. October 27 to November 26 was 19.8 mpg. Putting on brand new snows (General Altimax Arctic) knocked it down to 17.5 mpg for the next ~250 miles. However, since early December it's dropped again to 13 mpg!
Mechanic just checked for brake drag (none - rotating one wheel turns all 3 others easily); no pulling, rolls well in Neutral. No engine symptoms (missing, bucking) or CEL lights. Power seems a little diminished (for instance, it takes longer to shift during acceleration sequence).
I will add my Lucas Oil gas treatment just in case it may be injectors. My mechanic says he has seen MPG suffer from certain gas brands (and I do wonder if the tank fillup after which the MPG dropped had something to do with it).
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix with only 32,000 miles and has been meticulously maintained. I am experiencing engine stalling both while driving and at rest. I have taken the car to both a diagnostic center and the GM Dealer and neither one can isolate the problem. I have replaced the fuel filter, the Throttle Pressure Switch, and the Idle Air Control Motor. When placed on the diagnostic computer there are no error codes and the car runs well until it randomly dies. I can sometimes recreate the problem when I climb a hill at about 35 MPH and when I reach the top release the accelerator and the engine will die. I can kick it into Neutral and it restarts right away. Sometimes, after driving it, it will be slow starting requiring a longer than usual starter crank. What about possible causes?
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