I own a 2003 Camry LE. I went to Autozone to find out what the check enginge light was for and was given P0031. When the service person checked it out on the computer he said the probable causes were:
1) open or short circuit conditions
2) poor electrical connections
3) failed oxygen sensor
4) EFI relay fault.
I asked how it could be narrowed down and he said it I would have to get the car checked out.
What to do to get rid of P0031 check engine code on my 4 cyl. Camry LE. He replaced O2 and A/F sensor (Denso with CA emission), computer module (got dealer calibrated it), verified wiring/voltages, inspected the catalytic converter. When the code is cleared it will not come up for some time, but when the car is started cold it comes right back again.
View 2 RepliesVSC, Check engine light just came on my 2006 GS300. I only have 50k miles on it. I had this happen a few years back and it was the Gas cap o-ring. This time I changed the gas cap and reset the codes but no luck. After starting the car, with a minute the lights come back on. So checked the code and here is what I'm getting:
P0031
Heated Oxygen
Sensor Heater
Control Circuit Low
Bank 1 Sensor 1
Doing a search for the code yields this: [URL] .....
Changing the sensor vs. checking something else that might be the issue?
I'm getting a P0128 code on my 2003 V4 Camry. Autozone diagnosis says it's either
a) coolant low level
b) sensor not working correctly
c) thermostat not working correctly.
As part of 90k mile check about 3500 miles ago, the mechanic replaced the coolant. I didn't check the coolant after he had replaced it but I just checked it today and it's about 1 inch below the full level. Is this normal coolant usage considering that it's been about 3500 miles and 3 months since it was last filled?If the coolant level is okay, then how do I figure out if it's the sensor/thermostat?
My 2003 Camry with 160k miles is running OK but the check engine light came on and P0341, P0352 and P0354 are displayed with my code checker. I looked up the three codes and could not determine anything that would cause all three codes to display at the same time. I plan to reset the codes to see if and how fast they come back. Is there anything common that could cause all three to display at the same time?
View 1 RepliesCheck engine like on my 03 Camry with 2.4L is own & got an OBD code of P0031. Just bought the car with 38k miles one owner & can't pass local emissions.
View 10 RepliesIt just so happens that I got my letter from the DMV telling me I needed to get my new tags, and this is an emissions test year for my car. I was buys the last few weeks so I figured this would be a good week to do it. Yesterday.......check engine light comes on. How does that happen???
So now I'm on a time crunch. I went to Advanced Auto this morning and they checked the code. It's P0440, an Evaporative Emissions code. Any thought on what that me be, or any checklist as to what to check first? I'm fairly handy, but know nothing about cars. I'm sure I can figure it out with some instructions.
Summary: Got a check engine code of P0440, Evaporative Emissions. On a time crunch because I need to get an emissions test done. I can probably fix it myself with some direction.
My wife's car has 83000 miles on it. We bought it as a factory certified pre-owned vehicle with about 1800 miles on it and it came with the warranty. For the last two years the check engine light comes on with code 441 I don't worry about it till time to get inspection sticker here in Texas. I have been about to reset the computer and drive it till the computer is ready to be inspected and it has passed for two years. Now it won't reset and I have tried to test the vacuum switch and it seems to click when I apply voltage but light won't go off. This code can cost up to about 2000.00 to try and detect. I am not interested in having the dealership keep guessing on my dime.
View 2 Replies2001 Camry 4 cylinder. Check engine light came on yesterday. Advance Auto pulled out the code P0446 for the evap. emissions system vent circuit.
The car has no symptoms other than this and is current on all maintenance, but obviously it is a 10-year old car and so it goes.
2002 Camry 4 cylinder. I've replace the o2 sensor the one in "Bank 1". I've cleared the check engine light three times now and it still comes on about 30 plus miles. Do I need to reset the ECU? Or replace the catalytic converter?
View 11 RepliesCheck engine light was on for some time when I had filler neck and cap replaced. Computer sensors did not re-set until 501 mile mark, when light came on again. Checking the web, I find that some who appear to have knowledge of problem say it could be hoses, sensors, valves, or evap canister--the charcoal canister.
Mechanic who did original smoke test and recommended replacement of filler tube wants to replace evap canister without checking anything else. What should I do? At wits end, and car needed to pass inspection 2 days ago. Car has 157,000 miles or so...
Today my check engine light came on and the code is P0712. When I drove off from the parts store, the check engine light suddenly went off. What should I do at this point? What are the most likely problems/solutions.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Camry V6. The warranty expired in Feb 2007. The car has only 67,000km.
The check engine light came on and the code is P0770, Solenoid E malfunction. The problem was first reported at 43,000km, when the car was still under warranty but only a transmission flush was performed and the code was reset.
I wrote Toyota and after almost two months they told me they do not cover it because is out of warranty and I do not qualify for the Goodwill program. I tried again to tell them that instead of fixing the root of the problem they temporarily covered it, but again I got a NO. No comments about the mileage, time, etc. Just the car is out of warranty and I'm out of luck.
I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
This issue pertains to a 2006 Camry LE 4-cyl.
My check engine light came on - code P0032 (upstream O2 sensor). I bought a new sensor from O'Reilly Auto Parts. After installing the new sensor, the car would jerk while accelerating. This continued to happen until roughly 30 miles or so when the engine light came back on and the jerking stopped! I re-scanned the car and it showed the same error - P0032. I then erased the code, and the jerking issue resumed.
I assumed this was caused by a faulty O2 sensor. I returned and got another one. Same issue.
Is this the result of not getting an OEM sensor from the dealer? Or is there something else I should be worried about?
It's time to go thru emissions testing, but I'm getting a P0031. New A/F Sensor (Denso 234-9041) did not fix it. California Emissions compliant.
2003 Camry, 2.4 16-valve
Car runs good, MPGs same as always, 26/27 and 30+
Old sensor has no resistance or continuity thru any of the pins.
New sensor has 2.5/2.8 ohms res between blk/blk pins. (? +B and HT ?)
200K miles, has burned oil since I got it w/ 140K. Have had MIL light on for two years, but did not care until now. Previously had diff DTC's, not P0031.
Swapped EFI relay with Headlight relay, no change.
Checked all fuses, all OK.
Cleaned ground on engine block and fender, no change.
Checking voltage at engine connector, sensor disconnected, car running, I'm seeing
Orange 3.31 = Blue Sensor wire (AF+ ?)
White 3.017 = White Sensor wire (AF- ?)
Blk/Red 3.827 = Blk Sensor wire (HT ?)
Blk/Wht 13/14 = Blk Sensor wire (+B ?)
I cannot find FREE online wiring diagrams anywhere. I have searched TN exhaustively, have not found anyone who actually fixed this problem, or provided a link to a wiring diagram.
So, which wire is the ground ? Should it show 0 voltage ? Is it controlled by ECM ? How do I test the ground continuity ?
Where is ECM located ? I want to unplug and re-plug.
I have run into a bit of a dilemma with my recently purchased 2010 Camry SE.
Whenever I shift into reverse, the car jerks or shakes for a moment. The engine light is also on.
Before, when I put the car into reverse,there'd also be a knock sound along with a vibration, but the engine light was never on.
Now today, when I put the car in reverse, the vibration/shake/jerk is VERY noticeable and the car almost rocks back and forth for a brief second when this happens and the Engine light stays on.
note that this only happens when I put the car into reverse.
My 1999 Camry with 169700 miles has this 'check engine light' code: "Catalyst system efficiency below threshold". We have a mechanic we trust so we'll bring it to him this week. We spent a couple thousand fixing this car about two years ago and I'm not sure it is worth doing that again. Carmax offered us 1200 for it around this time 2012.
View 17 RepliesWe have a 2003 VW Passat 1.8, front wheel drive. The check engine light is on. The code is p0778. When we start the car the gears light display lights up in red for all gears . We put the car in reverse, back out the garage and when we stop, we get a bump. And we shift to drive the car moves slowly with some hesitation.
Sometimes after the car runs for 10 minutes, then turned of for a few second then started up again, the problem goes away. Before this problem started, we would start the car in the mornings, and put in "R" , and only the reverse gear would light up. (which is the way it is suppose to work).
Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.