Camry :: 2003 - How To Remove Gunk And Sludge From Engine
Nov 16, 2015
My 2003 camry had black oil when I bought the car. I flushed the engine with motor flush two times. Very dark oil came out both times. But when I did third time oil was clear.
I do not have any oil pan or valve cover leak. Do I need to drop the oil pan to clean the gunk if there any?Do I have to clean the oil pick up also?
If the oil is dirty and black does it mean gunk built up in oil pan and oil pick up strainer?
I peeped through the valve cover but I did not see any gunk in the cylinder head.
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My wife has a 2003 Camry LE with the 3mz-fe V6. First, from what I have seen, these engines appeared in 2004 models, but that's what's in it. Anyway, she doesn't take care of her car and the other night the check engine and oil indicators came on. Having been through this with a VW Passat (known sludge engine) myself, I immediately suspected a sludge issue. The next day, I had a mechanic come over and check it. He pulled one of the valve covers and sure enough, there was sludge everywhere, some of the oil journals completely occluded.
So, the question is what to do? As I said, I've been through this myself. When it first happened, I had to have main bearings replaced and they flushed the motor well enough to get normal oil pressure. It wasn't 3 months before the same thing happened. They flushed it again enough to get the oil pressure back to normal and I got rid of it that weekend. I know flushing the Camry could solve the problem, but could just as easily push sludge into other parts of the engine and give me a nice deja-vu. The other options are to have the motor rebuilt or buy a used motor. The car has 80K on it so I'm thinking a remanufactured engine.
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As I had the wheel off to change my tie rod end on my 2003 Camry, I noticed this gunk surrounding the driver side cv axle. I have changed the axle within the last year and there appears to be no grease on the rubber boot itself.
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My 2003 passat 1.8T has been in and out of the shop for the past few months all for the same prob oil sludge was building up in the engine the first time around tried to avoid pulling the oil pan and just ran some flush to clean it out needless to say that didn't work so i had to have my mech pull the oil pan and clean up the mess...... even though this is a known issue that vw is well aware of the refuse to fix the prob unless u have all of your oil change receipts which I do not have because i have my stepfather change my oil I now know that I need to run full synthetic in it......
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My car blew a head gasket in the fall. A friend replaced it and rebuilt the head. The head was taken to a machine shop, was not warped but was planed just a little. The engine was put back together but it continues to gunk up the radiator with yellow gunk. We put block sealer in and it today there is gunk in the over flow bottle again. This is a 1998 Honda Accord with only 103,000 miles on it when the gasket blew.
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We bought my wife's wagon with about 24k miles on it. It runs like a champ still (3k later). She has a client who has the exact same car but with 60k miles and the engine needs to be replaced. Something about sludge in the engine.
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I have a 2003 Kia Sedona EX with 103k miles on it. It is currently in the shop (KIA Dealership) and I'm being told that I have metal flakes in my oil and excessive sludge in my oil passages. This is causing my oil pressure to come in at 15 PSI instead of the specified 93 PSI. My mechanic has recommended a new engine.
I have only had the vehicle for 9 months and have done regular oil changes in that time.
Is there any hope of cleaning out the sludge? If yes, what do you recommend?Can I do successive short-mile oil changes?Can I use SeaFoam or some other product to clear it?Did I just happen to buy a car that hadn't been taken care of very well and now I really do need a new engine?
I've already replaced in the last 6 months of the 9 months I've had it:
Tires (Less than 10k miles on them)
Front & Rear brakes (whole thing)
Water Pump/Timing Belt/Serpentine/etc
Catalytic Converters - both fronts and the rear (just last week!!!)
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i have a 2004 passat 1.8t just hit 110k miles on it and a warning light that said stop engine oil pressure service manual came on and shortly after the engine died. it like putted like i ran out of gas. the engine cranks but doesnt turn over. i had it towed to a place and they said its the timing belt. another mechanic said that the engine could be blown. i researched the warning light and found a class action law suit against vw for engine sludge problems.
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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with 74K miles. It was apparently neglected before I bought it (at 55K miles), and has a case of engine sludge. It's clogging my oil control valve, and a couple engine flushes (by Kia dealer) over the last year have failed to correct the problem thus far. The car runs ok, but cannot pass an emissions test due to the check engine light and corresponding codes. Can I perform the flushes myself? What product should I use? Can I safely remove and clean the OCV myself? What product should I use?
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How to remove and possibly replace the rear bumper cover on a 2003 camry?
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When the water pump goes bad do you have to remove the engine to replace it?
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A friend of mine has a 2002 Century with a 3100 engine, 65,000 miles. The car has been well cared for, with all regular maintenance performed on time.
The car is losing coolant, the low coolant sensor comes on every few hundred miles. The local garage has added coolant, replaced the coolant sensor , and flushed the entire system. At this point my friend asked me to have a look.
1) Slimey "milkshake" on oil cap. Cleaned & dried it 4 days ago. 100 miles later, it's all slimey again.
2) Rad cap also has slimey gunk on it.
3) Coolant recovery tank is CRUDDY. The walls are all darkened with what I'd assume is oil residue.
Now, before anyone starts saying this is normal with Dexcool, I'll mention that I have a '98 and an '02 Grand Prix with Dexcool, they have 218,000 and 158,000 miles, respectively. My oil caps are bone dry. My coolant caps have only Dexcool on them. And my coolant recovery tanks are so clean they look new.
In seems to me that there is some kind of internal issue, e.g. intake manifold gasket, where the fluids are mixing. FWIW, I don't see any sign of external coolant leakage. Do the 3100s have any known issues in this area? I suggested my friend have the Buick dealer pressure test it (when it's cold), and go from there.
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We have a poorly maintained 2001 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L with 155,000 miles on it. Over the Christmas break, we left it untouched in the driveway for a month. After that it wouldn't start without being jumped off, and the oil light flickered when the car idled. We had the battery, alternator, and starter checked at a local shop; all of them checked out fine. Nevertheless, the car wouldn't start without being jumped off. It would click once, and then nothing. We also noticed it was overdue by 2,000 miles for an oil change, and thought this may be causing the oil light issue. Since the 2.7L Intrepids are notorious for engine sludge, we added a couple of ounces of Seafoam, drove about 15 miles, and then took it in for an oil change. Now it starts without a jump. So my question is Is there any way that oil sludge (and perhaps a weak starter?) is the issue?
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I've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
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I was checking my oil the other day and when I removed the cap there was this whitish film stuff and gunk on it. This is the first time I have noticed this and was wondering what is it, what causes it and should I be concerned? My car is a 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van 6 cylinder with about 147,000 miles on it and it has had regular oil changes for the past year plus that I have owned it.
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I noticed a 1'x2' square in the bottom passenger side corner of the radiator covered in green oily gunk. Ive had the 2008 for about 1000 miles (has 58k) so Im assuming its been there for a while. Seems like its impeding airflow. Its very green.
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02 limited with 116k v8. I changed the oil in the truck and noticed a white-gray gunk inside the fill spout...... I wiped it all out but I am trying to figure out what it was?
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Just got it a couple weeks ago from auction. 2005 CCSB Lariat FX4 automatic. I have been running through the truck and replacing every filter and anything that needs replacing. Most filters on the truck were wix, everything now is back to OEM.
The truck had the infamous check TFT and flashing overdrive on the dash and wouldn't shift over 3rd gear. I changed the transmission fluid a couple weeks back when I went to sort out a TFT flashing overdrive problem. The fluid that came out of the truck was new fluid and so was the TFT sensor so my assumption is someone had tried to fix the transmission problem by changing the TFT sensor but in reality one of the harness connector pins was bent all the way over (the pin that went to the TFT of all pins). Easy fix but I still replaced the TFT and the complete harness since I was that far in the transmission before I found the broken pin. New harness, trans fluid, and TFT sensor. But I stole the truck from auction because everyone thought it had major transmission problems. easy enough fix in the drive way.
Today I went to replace the transmission filter after receiving it from diesel filters online and finding my 22mm socket. The filter change was easy and strait forward. The filter itself looked pretty bad and there was about 2-3 oz of this white gunk in the bottom of the metal canister. What it is? Is it going to be a problem?
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When I drive my 1.8T from cold the red oil warning and stop light flashes for a 5 to ten seconds it then goes off and all appears fine.Whist it is flashing there are no tappity noises and the engine sounds sweet. If I let the engine run for 5 mins before pulling away I have no problem
.
Once warm it seems to be ok uless I drive hard on the motorway - then it comes on as I decelerate. Once again, everything sounds normal.I've always had services and oil changes on time. I had the engine flushed this week, but it has made no improvement.
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i have a 2007 gti and this is my first winter with the car and i live in a pretty cold climate and i've noticed quite a bit of white sludge under my oil cap from moisture and oil and i was wondering if there is anything i can do about this and i don't have a catch can and its not coolant i've noticed this happening since about 3 months now (since it went below zero) and my coolant level hasn't moved at all.
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I went to check my oil this morning even thought its only been roughly 2000 miles since the last change/filter(Napa Gold and Mobil One 0w40). I noticed that the dipstick had just a tad of yellowish snot stuff on it. I know it mean water in the oil but I cleaned it off and recheck, put a hair more in and it was all clean no more snotty yellow gunk.
My question is because it is cold and my dad moves it almost every morning before work could it be condensation? I know with my 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe with roughly 153,000 miles used to get the same yellow snot stuff in the oil fill neck but never on the dipstick. The passats oil filler cap/neck were both free of any snotty stuff.
If its still like this tomorrow I'm taking it to the dealer. Also there's still coolant and I couldn't be sure if there was any less as if it was a leaky head gasket but the rest of the oil is clean and not milkshake like.
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