Camry :: 2003 - Horrible Brake Squeal?
Jan 15, 2012
So my dad has an 03 Camry and the front brakes make way too much noise. It doesn't bother him much but when we switch cars on some days, it bothers the heck out of me.
I searched around on the forums and i couldn't find my exact situation. The front brakes are not even close to being worn and rotors were changed recently as well. The mechanics clean the area to see if it works but it doesn't. The brakes squeal A LOT especially when it is cold. Applying light to medium pressure will trigger the sound.
Say I was to brake from anywhere between 10-30 miles per hour, it would make such a loud squeal. but when I'm cruising and have to break a little heavier than normal, it won't squeal. Sometimes it won't even make a noise when they are warm. Also it would make so much noise moving slowly in heavy traffic, it bothers me so much and it is quite embarrassing.
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I have a 2003 Camry LE and one of my dash speakers blew. I finally decided to replace rather than listen to scratchy horrible sounds coming from my dash. I can't seem to find any diagrams/info on how to get to those speakers. I even checked in my repair manual that I use for everything else, and it wasn't in there. How I can go about doing this?
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I replaced my front pads/rotors after the dealership suggested same. I went with NAPA Ultra Premium rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I applied the high temp brake grease to the pad ends and shims, but forgot to install the two "V" spring clamps on the left front pads. The sliding caliper bolts seemed free, but I didn't clean them (I should have and will do so if I tear the brakes back down). I bedded the pads by doing 30mph to almost stops 3 or 4 times then 45mph to almost stops 1 or 2 times...not sure if that was enough based on reading other posts on how to bed.
I now have a slight squeal and not sure if it's due to a lack of those V clamps or if I didn't bed the pads correctly or other. Thoughts? Can the pads be "re-bed" if I boofed it up the first time? I'm about to do the rear rotors/pads and want to do it right.
The X stops OK, but I thought it would be more aggressive than it is with the pad/rotor combo I installed. I tow a ~8,000# TT and want good stopping power.
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Last June I took my 2001 Audi A4 off the road since I bought a more fuel efficient commuter car but I wanted to keep the Audi in the family until my oldest son started driving. That day has come and I'm making the car drivable again. I pulled the battery over the winter and kept it on a Battery Tender. I put it back in over the weekend and the car started up up and runs just fine. The only problem is that the rotors are extremely rusted and make a horrific grinding noise. Is there anything I can do to remove this rust? I assume I can just grind it off with the brake pads but that can't be good for the brakes which, if I recall correctly, are fairly new.
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Around 30k miles ago (or so) I had some TSW 19" wheels installed and about 1k miles later, I had H&R lowering springs installed. Shortly thereafter, I've had a very inconsistent but horrible steering wheel vibration. Most often this happens when I'm going between 45-85mph. But the strangest thing is that the vibration doesn't always happen! Sometimes I will be on the same stretch of road and the steering wheel will strongly and consistently vibrate as if I had warped rotors. Other times it will be nearly as smooth as glass.
Not sure if this is related but after the most recent set of tires were installed (around 1.5k miles ago) the car now pulls fairly strongly to the left. I've had two shops do three alignments and the alignment seems to be ok.
My primary auto repair shop showed something to me the other day. There is a bushing between the vertical steering rack and the horizontal tie-rods, etc. Whenever I turn the wheel, the bushing flexes/stretches noticeably as much as 3mm but there are no visible tears/breaks in the bushing. The shop visually checked the tie rods and they seemed ok also. A couple of my friends that know a lot more about cars than me seemed to indicate that this bushing should not move much, if at all. Below is a list of the things my car has gone through since we first noticed this issue:
- Three different tires and sizes have been used on these wheels and all have exhibited the same problem over the past 30k+ miles.
- Tires balanced and rotated by several different shops by traditional and Hunter road-force balancing machines. No difference.
- Two shops have cross-rotated my directional tires to see if wheels/tires were the problem but the car still pulled and steering wheel still vibrated.
- My TSW wheels/tires have been put on another car and no vibrations were present.
- Tried another car's wheels/tires and still had the same problem but it was slightly less intensive.
- Wheels aligned three times by two different shops since I had the current tire set installed about 1.5k miles ago. No difference other than the introduction of the car now pulls to the left.
- Replaced brake rotors and pads. No difference.
- Front and rear suspension checked and everything seemed ok.
- Removed Ultra Racing Strut Bar for several thousand miles. Minor vibration reduction but nothing major.
- Replaced hub-centric rings that came with TSW wheels with new rings from a different brand. Zero difference.
- Many other things checked but can't recall exactly what.
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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The other day I heard a massive snap as I pulled out of the driveway. I drove to work and everything handled fine but if I drove over a bump I noticed a horrible sound under my car. Smaller bumbs just caused a ting. My gfs dad looked at it and said everything was fine. I surely didn't believe that so I just jacked up my car and right away I noticed my spring snapped!
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When I take my foot off the brake, there is a squeal or whistle. It's sporadic and sometimes loud and long, other time low and short. It doesn't seem to happen when the mechanic is driving. And they can't determine cause.
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OK, my truck is making all kinds of horrible noises from the timing chain area. it is a 97 f150, 4wd with a 4.6. i know i need to replace it. BUT my question is, how long can i let it go before the chain breaks and sends valves into piston? And also what is the best timing set manufacturer? or are they all pretty good?
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2002 F-150 4x4 super crew w/5.4..So I've got the P0136 code, horrible fuel mileage (around 7 mpg just driving to work without hitting very many lights) and the check engine light comes on intermittently, and I get that code. I have borrowed my friends scanner ("Determionator Scan System") and I can see the live data from the 02 sensors. Today I drove around for a while and watched the scanner and the H02 data, and the downstream sensor on bank 1 shows at most, .09 volts, and it also says its detecting a lean mixture. The code P0136 is for this sensor in particular, and I have heard that an 02 sensor should be around 1 volt. The downstream sensor on the drivers side showed around .75 volts at max.
I believe that it is working correctly, or close to it, and I do not get a code for that sensor. So my question is, is the downstream sensor on the passenger side (bank 1) causing the P0136 code and the poor fuel mileage? also, could an exhaust leak cause the sensor to throw a code and not be bad at all? I do have some very minor exhaust leaks, on both sides of the truck..I'm leaning towards replacing that one 02 sensor. The wires and plug connection to that sensor look fine, plus I would think that if there was a bad wire/connection it would not register any voltage at all.. I have to add, the truck runs fine overall after I replaced the intake manifolds last week. It does still idle high, around 1,000 rpm, after coasting to a stop, then after a few seconds goes back down to a normal idle of around 650 rpm. but idles normal upon starting or in park.
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Experienced a brake squeal noise on their car when they first drive it? After a while it seems to go away? The sound is similar to a low brake indicator squeal but not as loud. I hear it on my drivers front wheel.
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Well, the Tig has developed brake squeal when we're backing out of the garage first thing in the morning. I notice it even more when it is humid outside (I live along the coast in Texas....when is it NOT humid outside?). Anyway, took the Tig in for the 10k mile checkup and oil change (I'm at 9500 miles right now), and I had a small list of things for the service tech to check out. The brakes was one of them. They came back and said that the squealing brakes is just a fact of life with VW. I told him, that was funny, that my 2003 Jetta never had a brake squeal, all the way up to 90k miles. He said that there was nothing they could do about it.
So, my question is.....does any TBS from VW that covers excessive brake squeal in the Tiguans? I thought for sure that they would at least offer to scuff up the pads or rotors, but he said it was normal because of the amount of dust generated by the pads. I also had the tech check oute that occasionally, in the first mile of driving the Tig, the brakes feel like I'm trying to stop a 2 ton truck old style, that is, they don't slow the Tig down until you're almost at the point of locking the wheels, and of course, they couldn't replicate the problem, so, no problem found.
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I just purchased a LS 460 2007, 64k miles. The brake when apply squeal, but not all the time when the break is applied. 5 times out of 10 times when you apply the break when driving the car for more than 20 minutes it start to squeal. It does not squeal when you first drive in the morning, but after driving more than 20 minutes, when you apply the brake - it will squeal on and off during various application of the break. Does the LS460 have brake indicator that would squeal all the time when you need new break? I am not sure what the sign that LS460 would need new break and rotor.....
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2004 egg with excessive brake squeal? I have under 5k miles and it's pretty loud. My dealer is covering it, but VW refused to cover it as a warranty item. Even though I love my vehicle, I'm forced to agree with other posters that feel VW isn't ready to be a luxury vehicle provider. I don't think I'd have gotten that response from BMW, Lexus, Accura, or Mercedes.
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I may, or may not have had to jump a curb at 40 mph to avoid rear ending another car. Truck is a 2003 F-150, single cab stx package, 4.2ltr. Long story short, no damage to my passenger side front tire or rim that I can see, but I do have a horrible grinding noise when I turn the wheel either direction. The truck still turns properly, power steering fluid is level. What should I start replacing first?! She's got about 90k miles on it, I'm sure a lot of the suspension parts are due, just need to know where to start!
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The scene: 22k miles on a 2010 Prius II. Loud rear brake squeal, worse when backing, but still present going forward at low speeds. Does not seem to go away even when warmed up. I put it off having it checked at first because a little rust on the pads is very common in my climate.
At the dealer, the tech tells me I've worn completely through the pads and scored the rotor! At 22k! On a Prius, for crying out loud! It's not my driving, either, because that's the first I've ever had anything done to rear brakes on any car before 75k. The front brakes needed no attention at all. I challenged the service tech with these points; he even took me back into the shop to show me. The caliper pistons were moving freely, for what it's worth. Ultimately he just shrugged me off.
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I have the exact same problem as described in the below video.
I have worked on brake pads once. I just haven't had the guts to try it on my Hybrid yet.
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I'm experiencing since outside temps are down here in Canada heavy brake squeal in the front. It is barely audible at -2/-3 Celsius, but lower (-10 and lower), it's really aggressive.
One week ago when very cold outside, I went to the dealer, I insisted for a test drive because of the cold condition this day. The tech notice the problem, and we scheduled an appointment for the next week to look at brake pads.
it's -1 outside, so brakes do not squeals... The service advisor told me, the tech (the one that tested it last week) is absent today. so if we look at this and found nothing, you will pay for the work...
So I need to wait a colder temperature to come back to the dealer...
The question is : what do you think about this problem ? are brake pads defective ? It's happen a low speed, regular braking (stop or light).
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I have a 2005 Murano, 96K.
In Aug 2011, I had the rear disc brakes/rotors replaced. Front ones were replaced in Feb of this year.
For the past month, whenever I release the brake, I hear squealing (no sound when I press the brake to stop). Last about 5 secs, or until I hit about 15-20 MPH. Seems to happen only after the brakes heat up. I've tried to "Google" the answer, but the answers are mostly for drum brakes.
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