Camry :: 2003 - Fuel Door Engine Code / Gas Fumes
Aug 20, 2015
I got an error that shows my that my gas is leaking gas fume and the check engine light is on because of that so I was wondering if this is really oem.
[URL] ....
Same one I have on my car but was just wondering if that is really oem for my camry.
1 more thing is can someone link me to a fuel door because the current one I have right now makes a noise when you open the fuel door like it scraps the inside of the fuel door with the body so I need a new one that will have the same color as my car which is a gray phantom pearl.
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I own a 2003 Camry LE. I went to Autozone to find out what the check enginge light was for and was given P0031. When the service person checked it out on the computer he said the probable causes were:
1) open or short circuit conditions
2) poor electrical connections
3) failed oxygen sensor
4) EFI relay fault.
I asked how it could be narrowed down and he said it I would have to get the car checked out.
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I'm getting a P0128 code on my 2003 V4 Camry. Autozone diagnosis says it's either
a) coolant low level
b) sensor not working correctly
c) thermostat not working correctly.
As part of 90k mile check about 3500 miles ago, the mechanic replaced the coolant. I didn't check the coolant after he had replaced it but I just checked it today and it's about 1 inch below the full level. Is this normal coolant usage considering that it's been about 3500 miles and 3 months since it was last filled?If the coolant level is okay, then how do I figure out if it's the sensor/thermostat?
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My '03 Tacoma Prerunner V6 has 116K miles and recently lit up its Check Engine light, returning a code for a failed up-stream air/fuel sensor. I recently drove across country, using many different fuel formulations ranging from CA gas to midwest ethanol to whatever they put in the gas here in the NY-NJ area (a mystery ingredient that seems to turn motorists irate and confuse their horn as a turn signal.)Anyway- age, or fuel, what killed the sensor? If fuel, will it happen again by time I get back west?
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2003 Camry 2.4L 4cyl
I noticed my engine light turned on. I went to Autozone to hook the car up to the computer. The computer printed out the code P0420. My coolant temp is normal. What can this code mean. The car has over 126,000 miles.
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
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2007 santa fe Had the engine replaced run very well . Every couple of days i get the PO455 code. Replaced the gas cap. Try to use my sense of smell to find the location of the leak . No odor of gas fumes. Spent an hour trying to find it. Will consider smoke test but wondering if it might be the vapor pressure sensor. Is it at the top of the gas tank, how do i get it it? Its the only code that comes up.
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My 2003 Camry with 160k miles is running OK but the check engine light came on and P0341, P0352 and P0354 are displayed with my code checker. I looked up the three codes and could not determine anything that would cause all three codes to display at the same time. I plan to reset the codes to see if and how fast they come back. Is there anything common that could cause all three to display at the same time?
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I own a 1998 C2500 Silverado. Recently I started noticing extreme gasoline fumes. Took truck in to my local mechanic and found out the fuel pump module had come loose from the gas tank. My mechanic dropped the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module for repair and discovered that the fuel tank had caved in ( imploded ) the full length of the tank. I've been told the fuel system is pressurized. How does the pressurized system work and what could have caused deformation of the fuel tank?
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the fuel door on my 02 Camry LE won't close. I'm guessing that there's a bar missing from where the hole is on the right side of the fuel cap. Can this problem can be fixed by myself (I have some mechanical knowledge, which I reckon I won't need for this)? If so, what are the parts I need to get?
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My wife's 2000 Hyundai Accent GL wouldn't start one morning. She tried to get a jump from someone, assuming it was a problem with the battery and apparently, they crossed the cables accidentally and melted the positive terminal of her battery. I replaced the battery about 2 weeks later and the car started up...a little rougher than normal, but it started nonetheless. After 30 seconds or so, the engine started to smoke. It seemed like it was coming from the rear of the engine.
After leaving it off for a few minutes, we restarted it and it was smoking again, this time from the front of the engine. I took a good whiff of the smoke and it's definitely gas fumes/exhaust fumes/I don't know. It seems like a pretty big coincidence for the battery to die and the exhaust manifold to become cracked all at the exact same time but I guess anything is possible. I guess my question is...is there something that could be causing this smoke and smell that could be linked to the battery being jumped incorrectly?
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My mom has a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan. For the last six months the car has the distinct smell of engine fumes in the cabin. The smell becomes more prevalent whenever the fan is running (A/C or not). She has constantly been back and forth to the dealer but to no avail. The smell is there are idle or just driving around and requires a window to be opened for fear of passing out.
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Ok, best way to splain this is after our Santa Fe has been warmed up and after a short shopping jaunt and restarting there is a brief interim of engine compartment fumes when the heater is turned on. Within a minute this is gone and not a problem but it's as if lingering fumes get somewhere within the ductwork although I cannot recall having this happen during warm months with the ac being on. I've never encountered this problem in other cars we've had. It's not overwhelming and only lasts a minute or so after starting.
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Something really strange is happening as I opened the hood after stopping the car the other day and it seems like something is burning ( doesn't smell like oil ) and smoky is coming out from the left side of engine compartment?!? What can it be as I can't see any oil leaks or anything? can something be melting
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3 PSD 90,000 miles Hydra Tuner
the past few days I started smelling diesel fumes in the cab of my truck with bent on and also at the front of the truck when installing new bumper and winch. It's not real strong in the cab but pretty stout at the bumper. I have poped the hood and made a quick visual inspection and from underneath the only evidence of any leak is some power steering fluid which is a different issue (I think)
a week or 2 ago I was cleaning the Ex and noticed 2 or 3 drops of red fluid on the concrete under the Ex I crawled under and looked up and the steering knuckle was pretty wet. Popes the hood and took a look from the top and the power steering pump was sticky and dirty but the only fluid was on the top of the cap.. I'm not real familiar with the set up on the Ex but I have heard the PS support the break booster. From visual inspection it seems as though the fluid is coming they the small (vent?) hole on the cap. What I can/need to do to stop this?
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I have a problem with exhaust fumes in my 2003 Silverado truck. Initially, 3 head bolts on the manifold were found to be popped off. After replacing the bolts, the exhaust fumes in the cab still existed. The truck has been evaluated by a Cherolet dealership and 2 independent garages who found no system exhaust leaks. Obviously, I am very frustrated and not sure what to do next or where to go.
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Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
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I am still battling a p0171 code on my 2000 f150 5.4. I checked the fuel pressure at idle it sits at 31. I remove the vacuum line off the regulator it goes to 41. When i give it throttle when in gear it will maintain at 30. And when I shut the vehicle off completely it will maintain 38. Just looking to see if this is correct numbers. I was trying to determine a weak fuel pump.
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2002 F-150 4x4 super crew w/5.4..So I've got the P0136 code, horrible fuel mileage (around 7 mpg just driving to work without hitting very many lights) and the check engine light comes on intermittently, and I get that code. I have borrowed my friends scanner ("Determionator Scan System") and I can see the live data from the 02 sensors. Today I drove around for a while and watched the scanner and the H02 data, and the downstream sensor on bank 1 shows at most, .09 volts, and it also says its detecting a lean mixture. The code P0136 is for this sensor in particular, and I have heard that an 02 sensor should be around 1 volt. The downstream sensor on the drivers side showed around .75 volts at max.
I believe that it is working correctly, or close to it, and I do not get a code for that sensor. So my question is, is the downstream sensor on the passenger side (bank 1) causing the P0136 code and the poor fuel mileage? also, could an exhaust leak cause the sensor to throw a code and not be bad at all? I do have some very minor exhaust leaks, on both sides of the truck..I'm leaning towards replacing that one 02 sensor. The wires and plug connection to that sensor look fine, plus I would think that if there was a bad wire/connection it would not register any voltage at all.. I have to add, the truck runs fine overall after I replaced the intake manifolds last week. It does still idle high, around 1,000 rpm, after coasting to a stop, then after a few seconds goes back down to a normal idle of around 650 rpm. but idles normal upon starting or in park.
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