My 2003 Camry with the 2.4 engine sometime bucks when you let off on the accelerator pedal. Sometimes when you just lightly back off on the pedal it feels as if the car is braking slightly. I do not have the problem all of the time and I'm not getting any OBD fault codes. The car drives fine except for this problem. I am thinking maybe the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe the mass air flow sensor may be the cause.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
View 14 RepliesI have been having a problem for a while now where my truck will miss/buck at WOT. This only happens at higher RPM's. From a standing start 0-60 it is fine. However when I downshift full throttle from about 50 MPH it initially goes, but then it will miss/buck consistently until I back off the throttle.
I have so far replaced the CPS, re torqued injectors, checked valve cover harnesses and fuel pressure stays in between 64-58 full throttle. No codes show up.
My truck runs great except as I described above. I would think an injector or two are bad, but the truck runs and idles great. My initial guess was that it was a fuel pressure issue, but fuel pressure holds strong. Could it be air in the fuel?
MY 2003 Santa Fe is fwd with the 3.5 v6. While under normal conditions, the engine lost power and began "chugging" and "bucking". There was also a belt slipping "whine" associated with this problem. The problem continued for about two minutes, then corrected itself, and I was able to drive normally.
View 1 RepliesMy transmission slips when I'm slowing down and I take my foot of the brake. It doesn't always do this but it's still a concern . I have about 42k 12 i4i4 ....
View 4 RepliesThis issue is driving me insane. I have taken it to 5 mechanics and no one can figure out what it is. I replaced all the motor mounts which did make it noticeably better but it's still there.
I can easily recreate it if I accelerate and then let go of the pedal. It's just a single jerk, almost like a jolt to the car. Also happens when turning off cruise control. It doesn't matter what speed or what gear I'm in. I can get a MASSIVE jolt if I switch it from reverse to drive or drive to reverse if I'm not at a complete stop but almost stopped.
It also feels like it hesitates when accelerating but it's not too bad. Mechanics say it's normal but I have owned many automatics and never experienced anything like this. What could cause it? It's a V6 2002 toyota camry LE.
I have a 4 cyl 2002 Camry with around 80,000 miles. Last night I put the car in reverse (flat parking lot) and the car started to buck/jerk when moving backwards. Going forward the car is fine. No check engine light.
After driving for two miles I tried putting the car in reverse a few times and it was fine. This morning I tried putting the car in reverse 8-10 times. One time I got the bucking again, went forward and then reverse again and no problem. Trans fluid was changes 5 months ago.
02 Camry 261 thousand miles coming home yesterday on deceleration loud noise coming from front left front end drove two miles very very loud pulled in the driveway. does not make much noise on acceleration but very very not when coasting. I believe the left CV joint has gone out.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 camry with 212000 miles on it and just lately when driving at a constant speed 60 mph or over it starts to buck or jerk a little bit and you can feel it in the seat. I've had the throttle body cleaned and put in a new mass air flow sensor and it hasn't fixed it yet. What might be causing this? It doesn't do it when accelerating or slowing down.
View 9 RepliesIntermittent problem, noticed mostly at low speeds, where car will buck or lurch forward. Most noticeable when accelerating after a slowdown, i.e. applying gas after coasting. No check engine lights, oil & transmission fluid is full. Car has 105K miles, tranny & coolant flushed every 30K, oil changed every 3K, tuneup w/plugs& wires @ approx. 93K, timing belt @ 70k. This car is a gem, mostly driven on the highway that has been perfect until now. Things I've considered doing: replacing timing belt, transmission solenoid, computer sensor that controls tranny. My suspicion is its tranny related but maybe not. Is there a way to check/set the timing on this car? I remember years ago using a timing light on my chevy. This is weird, it will run perfect smooth in the morning and rough with lurching in the afternoon. Could be a total coincidence but it seems to run ok when its cool and not so when it is hotter.
View 8 RepliesMy 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid has lurched for over a year now. The dealership has run tests and can't seem to figure it out -- though my budget has only allowed them to take a look at it 2 or 3 times.
Things I know:
* lurches are accompanied by RPM fluctuations
* only lurches at slow speeds (under 30 mph?)
* only lurches on a slow, steady deceleration -- does not lurch in acceleration or quick deceleration
* dealership replaced O2 sensor; had no effect
* Jiffy Lube flushed oil and (I think) transmission fluid systems; had no effect
* previous owner did not perform regular maintenance; missed oil changes, etc.
* lurching seemed to get really bad last summer, getting progressively worse until the car died on the road. The nearest mechanic said I was out of oil (which surprised me because I had changed the oil maybe 2 months prior?
)* lurching can be minimized by turning off AC/heat
Things that MIGHT be playing a part? seems like it gets worse in summer heat. Definitely still happens in winter though, so this may be my imagination.
I have a 2000 5.4 4x2 with about 118k. the pinion seal was leaking. I replaced the seal and added proper amount of 75/140 diff fluid as listed on the tag. I marked the pinion nut, flange and housing, so I could count the number of turns it took to remove nut. I put back the same but now I have a whine at low speed on deceleration. under normal throttle and at higher speeds it sounds just fine. Its just on deceleration and at 5mph or less. The sound was not there before I did the new seal.
View 2 Replies[URL] ....
I have a whistle sound mostly upon decel when the engine was cold. I have the APR down pipe installed. Today it's doing it all the time even when warm. I took the car to the dealer and they said it was prolly an exhaust leak. I took the car to my friends shop and we put the car up on the lift and listened from underneath. It sounded like the turbo was echoing in the down pipe. Sometimes when it's cold it can be very loud. So my question is if this is normal with the APR down pipe or with this turbo or is this a sign that I have a turbo failure coming?
Is it normal? I tried to find a discussion about this in this forum but couldn't find anything.
When coasting over 35 mph, when the speeds reaches 35, the engine (or ICE as you prefer) is starting for a second then stops. I really don't see why it would do that.
So, this past Saturday, I was driving down the road at about 40mph when all of a sudden, the engine started to buck and violently shake the car. I immediately pull off the road and settled on a side street with engine still bucking. When I made the turn, I applied a bit of throttle to get it round and there was essentially no throttle, so I kind of coasted to a stop. It was the strangest thing. I let it sit for 10, turned the key, and the starter turned the engine over only to start bucking again. Immediately turned off the car.
Figured I'd program the car back to stock mode (have APR Stg 1 flash) and give it a shot. Except this time, the starter worked and the engine didn't turn over. Tried a few more time, but got the same result. Starter worked, engine didn't. Fast forward an hour and a half and a flatbed shows up to haul me to the dealer. Called the dealer today to find out they haven't been able to replicate the issue and there's no code. In fact, they actually got it to start and it's been idling for 30 mins. When the tow guy came out, he thought it might have been an issue with the car not getting fuel - which seemed like a possibility. But, the car has a full take of 93 oct in it.
Like I said, APR Stg 1 ecu flash and that's it. Has 31K mi. DSG. Funny thing was, a day before this all happened, I brought it in for a 30K check-up and there weren't any issues.
When driving my 2003 Volvo XC70, it sounds as if I am driving on nobby mud tires. The sound (rrrrrrrrrrrr) gets faster and slower with the cars acceleration and deceleration. I know that the sound isn't caused by the tires because I am running on Micheline Harmony tires which are fairly quite. I am concerned that it may be a gear going bad.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Limited and when I start there's a slight hesitation then the power comes on. Also, when I let off the gas and the car slow's to about 20 and below there's a little "reverse surge." The power starting out and decel'ing isn't linear. It's got a little hiccup.
View 1 RepliesMy girlfriend said her 2008 GX has been acting weird recently. When in park, if the engine is revved, the RPM's don't drop after letting off the gas. The RPMs do eventually drop but it takes a few seconds and it doesn't do it smoothly. The vehicle also maintains a pretty constant speed while driving and letting off the gas with very little deceleration. Is this normal for this vehicle or could something be wrong with it?
View 5 RepliesMy 1999 f150 is having issues of bucking while going down the road and it only happen on a hot day. It's like someone is turning the key off then back on.It's only for a split second. I'm having trouble determining if this truck has the fpdm or not. and if this may be the issue. Fuel Pump Driver Module ?
View 8 RepliesI have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
Title says it all. I was on my way to grab dinner, stopped at a light and heard it. At first, I thought it was a car next to me. Then it kept on going, and my CEL came on. I pulled over, shut off the car, popped the hood.
Temp normal, no smoke, restarted and watched the engine. Rough idle, and it appears to be bucking. Sounds like belt noise, not sure what is going on..