I have an' 03 Camry with 46K miles and last week the check engine came on. Turns it was the Arem Sensor, whatever that is, that caused the light to come on and needed to be replacement. So my question is, is that a common problem with Gen5 Toyota Camry's?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f 150 with a 4.2 ltr v6 the check engine light came on so i took it to autozone and had the code pulled. They told me that the o2 sensor bank2 sensor 1 which is before the converter had a slow response so i checked the wiring and bought the o2 sensor. They told me bank 2 is the passenger side but well i changed the1st sensor on the passenger side and reset the code and drove the truck about 130 miles . and the light came back on. After reading a few posts. I think they told me wrong is the drivers side bank 2 or is the passenger side bank 2 ...
View 14 RepliesI was recently in an accident deemed not my fault, my 250 was in perfect condition otherwise. After the accident when I received my car from the shop, they gave it back to me with the check engine light on and told me it was my O2 sensors. I ran a scan on them and the Bank 1 has low voltage, Bank 2 has high. What could be a cause of both of them to have voltage problems? The mechanics refused to believe the accident had anything to do with it, which is complete BS. I got hit on my passenger side, 11K in damage.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 141,000 miles. Recently, I've burned up both O2 sensors causing the check engine light to come on. My mechanic has replaced each and they've burned out again. The head gasket was replaced after that, to no avail. The check engine light continues to come on after being cleared in the computer. I have also noticed that on humid days, the car misfires on at least one cylinder., but any other time, it seems fine. What to check next? My mechanic is at a loss.
View 2 RepliesI have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
View 19 Repliesmy 92 subaru check engine light has been on for months. I took it to my mostly-trusted mechanic. He hooked it up to the computer and the car did not give any codes. He reset the light, but it came right back on when started. I am wondering about the coolant temp sensor but I would expect that would give a code. Why won't a check engine light give a code?
View 3 RepliesMy wife has a 2003 Camry LE with the 3mz-fe V6. First, from what I have seen, these engines appeared in 2004 models, but that's what's in it. Anyway, she doesn't take care of her car and the other night the check engine and oil indicators came on. Having been through this with a VW Passat (known sludge engine) myself, I immediately suspected a sludge issue. The next day, I had a mechanic come over and check it. He pulled one of the valve covers and sure enough, there was sludge everywhere, some of the oil journals completely occluded.
So, the question is what to do? As I said, I've been through this myself. When it first happened, I had to have main bearings replaced and they flushed the motor well enough to get normal oil pressure. It wasn't 3 months before the same thing happened. They flushed it again enough to get the oil pressure back to normal and I got rid of it that weekend. I know flushing the Camry could solve the problem, but could just as easily push sludge into other parts of the engine and give me a nice deja-vu. The other options are to have the motor rebuilt or buy a used motor. The car has 80K on it so I'm thinking a remanufactured engine.
I own a 2003 Camry LE. I went to Autozone to find out what the check enginge light was for and was given P0031. When the service person checked it out on the computer he said the probable causes were:
1) open or short circuit conditions
2) poor electrical connections
3) failed oxygen sensor
4) EFI relay fault.
I asked how it could be narrowed down and he said it I would have to get the car checked out.
I changed the spark plugs in my daughters 2003 camry, and now it is sputtering and and hesitating. is there a chance I put them in to tight? The check engine light is on, and it will start blinking for a few seconds and then stop blinking and remain on when the car gets up to speed. The car wasn't doing this before the sparkplug change.
View 9 RepliesI'm getting a P0128 code on my 2003 V4 Camry. Autozone diagnosis says it's either
a) coolant low level
b) sensor not working correctly
c) thermostat not working correctly.
As part of 90k mile check about 3500 miles ago, the mechanic replaced the coolant. I didn't check the coolant after he had replaced it but I just checked it today and it's about 1 inch below the full level. Is this normal coolant usage considering that it's been about 3500 miles and 3 months since it was last filled?If the coolant level is okay, then how do I figure out if it's the sensor/thermostat?
My 2003 Camry with 160k miles is running OK but the check engine light came on and P0341, P0352 and P0354 are displayed with my code checker. I looked up the three codes and could not determine anything that would cause all three codes to display at the same time. I plan to reset the codes to see if and how fast they come back. Is there anything common that could cause all three to display at the same time?
View 1 Replies2003 Ford Taurus, Vulcan V6 (OHV), 40k miles. I picked it up in January, occasionally I would hear a "chirp" sound with the engine running. I assumed it was the serpentine belt and replaced it. It seemed to work.
Today the chirping started once the car was warmed up. I did some research and discovered the chirp sound is a symptom of a worn synchronizer. I checked with a mechanics stethoscope and verified the chirp is coming from the area of the synchronizer.
I'm debating doing the repair myself, regardless I won't do the repair until the weather warms up. It not my primary car, but I would still like to drive it a couple times a week. The chirping is intermittent for the moment. Am I risking anything driving it as is?
My wife started her 2010 Camry (4 cylinder) this morning and the Oil Pressure, Check Engine, and Check Battery lights were all on.
She turned the car off, waited and started it back on and the same thing.
I rushed our kid to day care and her to work before coming to work myself, I haven't had a chance to check anything.
I replaced the air filter and cabin air filter over the weekend and the oil was changed at the dealer 2 weeks ago.
I wonder, how will we know if/when the parking assist sensors stop working? Will the display be missing some of the yellow lights or will we have to find out the hard way?
View 2 RepliesNothing mechanical, fuel filter change and coolant check. While its there I am going to have them look at a few things:
1. Back up sensors - they work intermittently with a message that comes up saying "check back up sensors" or something to that affect on the display. The icon on the display that lets you check off or on will not let you put a check mark next to "on" after you push the "OK" button to get out of the check message. There is nothing coating the bumper/sensors (mud or anything).
2. Blinkers - sometimes, out of the blue, my left turn signal comes on and it doesn't like to go off. I have to push the blinker wand down to the second full position then back, or repeat if it comes back on. It is almost always the left blinker. It also happens sometimes when I start the truck.
3. Windshield wipers - sometimes if I go from the remote start to key power in the morning I get the windshield wipers going. So I will turn them on with the dial and back off. This is pretty rare.
4. The Ford emblems are starting to corrode.
5. I might have them look at the cruse control - sometimes I can get the light to come on the dash and go to green when I push the + button, but it doesn't hold the speed. I have to shut the truck off and restart all the electronics for it to start working again.
How to check the back up sensors? My gut tells me with the rest of the issues that unless they can repeat and verify my "complaints" they won't be able to do anything. There probably isn't a code thrown for the blinkers going on at will. Is there anything I might be able to do to fix it? Or do these issues require parts being replaced - which we're back to square 1 with being able to verify what it's doing at the dealer?
I replaced my seven year old original battery on my 2008 Camry V6 SE. The car started ok, but the check engine came on and showed the P300 misc engine misfire. The car ran fine. The original battery failed the load test at the local auto parts store. I replaced the battery and the check engine light went out. I have noticed better engine performance and better transmission shifting too.
View 3 RepliesI got "check Hybrid System" error with all sensors are yellow on the dashboard of my 2011 Prius with 80k odometer reading. Currently no Hybrid system, only petrol engine works.
View 2 RepliesI plan on changing the 2 sensors from the codes p0138 (bank 1, sensor2) and p2195 (bank 1, sensor 1). Any visual picture on here to locate these sensors?
2007 Xamry XLE V6
I was told the speed sensor for my 2007 Camry LE was dirty. My ABS light goes off every now and then and also my check engine light as well. It's starting to not have power going up hills and the acceleration is a little funny (speed will decrease randomly then shoot back up after a bit of time). I read there is more than one speed sensor, which one should I be replacing? Will cleaning it fix it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry V6 US model. I need to replace the Oxygen Sensor that is on the front (beginning) of the Front Exhaust Pipe Assy, just before the other sensor which is on the curved part of the front exhaust.
When looking at the DENSO website, it lists two sensors BEFORE the catalytic convertor and two AFTER it. I don't see ANY sensors after the convertor(s), nor does the Toyota Camry shop service manual show them.
Are there only two or are there more than two? Also, what is bank 1 and bank 2? I'm assuming bank 1 is the front cylinders and bank two are the rear (towards the windshield).