Camry :: 2003 4cyl Won't Start - New Battery And Starter
Sep 25, 2012
My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
View 4 RepliesMy camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Solara 4cyl, some months ago it started to blow light blue smoke on start, but would go away after a few minutes. My mech, could be the valve guides. Then about a month ago it blew a head gasket, didn't overheat though, as I stopped, added water and went to the mech. So new gasket and a valve job, but it still blows smoke on start. THe mech said going to 20w50 might work, it didn't. I check the oil last week, thought it should a couple of qts low, so I added oil, but the blue smoke is still there, and I started to smell oil burning. I thought maybe I added too much, so I add another oil change w/20w50....still have the oil burning, blue smoke on start... The mech thinks might be leaking in the rings...ugh....probably could/ve bought a new engine by now...... The check engine light had been intermittent, the mech said it the catalytic converter....it finally went off by itself four days ago....maybe it burned out..........
View 5 RepliesThe battery is about 6-month old and my mechanic replaced the starter last week as the car had a hard time to start. Since then it has no problem except once in a cold day (about 35 degrees) it took 10 minutes to get started. Every time I switched the key, no sound came from the starter or the engine, just like what happened with the old starter. But this only happened once. I didn't have trouble in other occasions with the new battery and the new starter. What could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 Camry has a starting issue. Sometimes, but not always, when I turn the key to start the car, nothing happens - no clicking, nothing. When I try again, immediately, the car starts up. This has been going on for about a week. Battery? Starter? Or?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Nissan a Frontier that won't start. I go out in the morning, turn the key, and nothing... no clicks, no sound at all. All lights work fine, radio works, all interior lights work and don't even dim when I turn the key. Searching these forums, I thought it might be the starter so I got a new starter about a month ago. Seemed to work fine until a few days ago when it started doing it again. When I go back out a couple hours later, sometimes it'll start up perfect, like nothing happened, sometimes it won't.
Somebody suggested I shift it to neutral and try starting it, so that's what I just did this morning and it worked... Tried starting it for an hour and got nothing, shifted it to neutral and it started right up. Turned it off, shifted it to park and tried starting it again. Started right up! Starter is 1 month old, so it's hard to believe it would be that. Battery weak or loose terminals? Well if it were that, why would it start right up when shifted to neutral? I don't know how long the "shifting to neutral" trick will work so I really want to get the problem solved instead of relying on a work-around.
Stereo cut off, battery light came on, windshield wipers got week, car shut off and wouldn't turn back on. Jumped and immediately died, found blown etcs fuse, replace got vehicle home. The next day the stereo turned off again so I went to get new fuses and the car turned off again. Fuse wasn't blown, had battery and alternated checked and they've been tested as being fine. Ran diagnosis and got 2 codes related to pcv valve and throttle body which I'm assuming came from going into limp mode once I got 2 blocks from my house.
View 4 RepliesCar was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
View 19 Replies03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
I have a 2004 Toyota Camry 4cyl. Vehicle had ran hot. Performed the procedure and sent the head to the machine shop for the works. Replaced the timing chain and the oil pump chain along with the tensioner, rails and sprockets. Performed the timing chain procedure and even questioned the information about the counterclockwise rotation against the figures of clockwise,, but aligned all of the links to the dots on cams, crank, oil pump and crank. Vehicle spins tries to crank but, floods all of the plugs, no codes, good compression , fire and even hand rotated the crank to check all of the timing marks and all looks fine.
View 6 RepliesMy car has 219k miles and has been very loud and when i turn it on the rpm meter goes to 3 and gradually car quiets down and needle comes down to 1. While i drive the steering wheel vibrates too. I took it to the mechanic i was told that timing chain needs replacement as its about time. I was under the impression that timing chains do not need replacement.
The steering wheel vibrates (shakes) it makes light clicking sounds too. I have not been able to diagnose the problem by myself. I think these two things may not be related but engine is really loud. Does timing chain needs replacement? and if it does what else along with it should be replaced?
Our Camry has about 105,000 miles on it. Car is well maintained, I change the oil every 3 k or so and the air filter is clean (although it is not a factory air cleaner- it is a K&N filter). Other maint is done as specified by the warranty/maintenance book although the car is long out of factory warranty.
We occasionally pull a 800 lb pop-up tent trailer and just got back from the Sierras after driving up some pretty tall passes with it. Car ran great, got great mileage, temp gauge rock steady. I say this because it is probably the most stressful driving we do with this car. While we live in the city we are retired and the car is not exposed to constant heavy traffic, dust or snow. Mileage seems to have remained pretty steady, even with the hesitation.
Got home from the mountains and a couple days later the car began to hesitate when under load. The hesitation shows up as a slightly uneven surge when the car is going up a hill or when it is cold. About 20 mph the car seems to momentarily stop accelerating, then evens out and upwards of 40 mph I don't feel it at all. The hesitation is getting a bit worse over the last couple days in frequency, but still isn't felt on the freeway. I don't know if the hesitation is related to the recent trip to the Sierras.
I hooked up my OBD II computer to see if there are any DTCs, none shown, even left the computer on the car for a day to see if anything might pop up when the car surged, but the computer isn't seeing trouble codes.
My other thought was "got some bad gas", ran the tank out and put in new gas, fuel injector cleaner and dryer. With one new tank it hasn't worked. I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet.
Tried driving the car in 1st and 2nd gear only and found that the hesitation isn't dependent on what gear I'm in, but seems to be more about the speed and load. In neutral, slowly revving the engine, I don't detect anything that sounds or looks like a hesitation (just watching the tach).
Been reading about problems some Toyotas have had with unintended acceleration but I'm not sure that is my problem. I have to admit I didn't know that my Camry was "drive by wire" and maybe I don't understand it enough. Maybe a "reflash" might be needed?
My sense is that I should go ahead and do the next major maintenance items including plugs, but if I had a bad plug or plug coil wouldn't that show up as a Diagnostic Trouble Code item?
Could this be a bad injector or fuel filter? Wouldn't they produce a DTC? How do I break down the next steps?
After fixing a misfire on cylinder 4 (bad plug) I find two other problems on a 2005 Camry I bought recently. It has 88k miles (bought at 85k) has new plugs, air filter, and oil changed recently.
When I start the car in the morning a puff of blueish smoke comes out and doesn't come back until it gets started again after getting cold. Has a strange chemical smell. Also when it starts it shoots up to 2k RPMs and slowly goes down to a notch below 1k after a minute or two.
The other thing is that when cruising at around 40MPH and just holding that speed the car will start to vibrate intermittently. Not just the steering wheel or anything, it's felt throughout the car. I also notice that the RPMs fluctuate slightly, just a notch up and down as the vibrations come and go. If I let go of the gas it stops, if I accelerate, it stops.
My 03 Camry is blowing cold air on the passenger side while the heat is on. The drivers side blows hot air as it should. The coolant is full. Its a 4cyl LE and does not have dual climate control.
View 14 Replies2003 Camry 2.4L 4cyl
I noticed my engine light turned on. I went to Autozone to hook the car up to the computer. The computer printed out the code P0420. My coolant temp is normal. What can this code mean. The car has over 126,000 miles.
I started my car and noticed that something under the hood was very loud. It sounded as if there was a large fan left on high and I was right. The passenger side radiator fan doesn't come on. The drivers side does though and yet there is no overheating! Ive taken short 15 mile trips here and there but the temperature gauge stays right in the middle. If i give this radiator fan motor a good whack with a screw driver, it comes right on. What it could be? Does it need a motor replacement? Could it actually be the relay if when I give it a whack, it comes on?
View 5 RepliesHave an 03 Camry 4 cyl. That is my wife's car.
She reported nothing wrong yesterday but this am does not start. I can hear the starter humming but does not turn over. My charger shows battery at 100% but I suppose could still be the culprit. Going to have it load tested to find out for sure.
At first it began to slow start. Just some coughing before it would start for sure. Sometimes it would start right away, sometimes struggle.
I took it to Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested and they said the battery was fine.
A day later the car would not crank at all and stranded me at the grocery store. The starter began to fire and then it would stop. After 4-5 tries it would not try to turn over at all.
My friend came and tried to jump me and the care started right up!
When I got home, the car was able to start on it’s own the couple times I tried. I risked going back to Advance to have them test out the battery again, as well as the test of the alternator and starter. Everything again tested fine, as far as they could tell.
While there the car again failed to crank and they heard the noise and immediately felt that the starter was the culprit. I ordered one just to be safe as it took some time to get here. (Plus a starter is like 2 bolts and a wire, what could go wrong?) >.>
I got a jump and got home. I did A LOT of reading, which led me to believe that perhaps it WAS the battery after all.
Last night I began preparations to replace the starter and check for corrosion or a bad cable. How difficult is that starter is to get to! I had to remove the ECM as part of the process.
Today I got the starter as well as a new battery.
First thing I tried was just replacing the batter. No luck, and the starter did not even engage this time. I tried tapping it with a hammer to see if that worked. No luck.
It was at that point I realized I had not connected all the ECM cables securely. I disconnected the battery, reconnected the ECM fully and still had no luck.
Now when I press the ignition button there is a slight whir, and the gauges come up, but there is no other activity.
Is this still a starter problem?Did I screw up the ECM somehow?Is there a short or fuse issue (I have tried to check with my limited knowledge)
Typically, our GX cranks and starts fine...after turning over once or twice. However, recently it's been slow to start. Today, I felt as if there weren't enough CCA. Battery is 2 yrs old (about 23K miles old) and the alternator was replaced about a yr and a half ago. I suspect it's the battery, however what are the symptoms of a failing starter? How difficult it is to replace the brushes or change it with a remanufactured one on a 2006? Is there a DIY on the starter? I just want to cover all the bases...just in case.
View 1 RepliesI have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
My husband's starter went, so he took it in to be rebuilt. After my husband reinstalled it, as soon as he connects the battery up, the starter engages without the ignition on (not even a key in the ignition). Did the guy who rebuilt it screw up, or is there something my s/o might have done wrong when putting it back in?
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