Camry :: 2003 4cyl - Passenger Side Radiator Fan Not Working But Temp Gauge Stays In The Middle
Mar 17, 2016
I started my car and noticed that something under the hood was very loud. It sounded as if there was a large fan left on high and I was right. The passenger side radiator fan doesn't come on. The drivers side does though and yet there is no overheating! Ive taken short 15 mile trips here and there but the temperature gauge stays right in the middle. If i give this radiator fan motor a good whack with a screw driver, it comes right on. What it could be? Does it need a motor replacement? Could it actually be the relay if when I give it a whack, it comes on?
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Normally, the temp gauge in my 4-cylinder 1993 Dodge Caravan stays a half-division below the middle, once it warms up.
Recently, though, it sometimes goes all the way to hot and then back down to the middle, taking maybe 5 seconds to go up and then 5 seconds to go back down. This seems to mostly happen after the car has been sitting for a long time (like a week), and when it happens, it only happens once, usually around the time the engine gets warmed up.
I also noticed this weekend that it would frequently go up a division or so and then go back down again, again, taking maybe 5 seconds. It happened maybe 10 times in a 50-mile trip, often (but not always) when going uphill.
I've checked the coolant level -- the reservoir is close to max. I also checked that there isn't an air bubble by loosening the radiator cap.
What this is? Thermostat? Fan (or fan relay)? Water pump? Faulty temperature sensor? I don't know enough about how the cooling system works to hazard a guess.
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My 03 Camry is blowing cold air on the passenger side while the heat is on. The drivers side blows hot air as it should. The coolant is full. Its a 4cyl LE and does not have dual climate control.
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2010 camry 4 cylinder, Heater/ac air flow control not working. Only blows air to defroster which it has no temp control.
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My temperature gauge on my car sometimes ill notice is being a little over the middle and sometimes till be a little under the middle is this normal for it to do that or should it stay in the middle ?
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 My temperature gauge is stuck in the middle whether the car is off/idling/driving. I am wondering whether this could possibly be an issue with my coolant temp sensor/sender, or wiring.. Or since its just stuck there, would it be the gears of the actual gauge..
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I have an '04 Nissan Sentra. I know there is a problem with my fuel pump, which can delay the start on my car, but that is not my real problem. My problem is I have no heat. My car starts fine and never moves above or below the middle on the temperature gauge, but it almost never warms up. The only time it seems to is if I am going over 55 mph and that is only the first time I go over that speed. Once I slow down it stops working and does not come back. The air blows out, but the air is colder than my A/C. I have looked at the coolant and that seems to be fine, so I am not sure where to look next.
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My Mom has a 07 Camry with only 40k miles. Today she's coming from the store & said the Brake, ABS lights came on and Speed, RPM & Temp gauge stop working?
The car still drove fine but it freaked her out! After 1/2hr everything worked again?
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i have a 2006 sonata v6 3.3 couple off days water in my radiator started to finish every morning I have to refill it again I haven't noticed any leaking near the engine or under the vehicle but when i drive around i noticed a steam is coming out of my air vent though the air condition is off and the temperatures of the engine rises when i tried to open the radiator cap it was already empty i checked around inside the car i have found the floor mat in the passenger side is wet
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I have an 02 F250 V10. Ive always wondered about the transmission gauge. It seems to always point to the middle of the gauge range. This weekend I was pulling my car hauler up and over the Ozark mountains, and when I stopped for fuel I noticed the transmission was vomiting fluid underneath the truck (and on my exhaust creating a nice smoke bomb for everyone around me). The gauge indicated normal temps. It kind of gave me a sick feeling. I have ordered the 6.0 Trans cooler from Rock Auto and a new temperature sending unit. Do the trans temp gauge is supposed to move or is it pretty much useless?
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Ok, there may not be a lot of members here on this forum who this applies to but to those of us who drive our GXs in colder climes, I've found this to be an issue worth mentioning:
During a recent short road trip and adult passenger complained that his feet were freezing while sitting in the row behind the passenger/driver seats. I mentioned the controls in the console but they had little or no effect. After adjustments to the passenger temp and a little bit of searching the controls (I was driving) I couldn't find much in the way of blasting his feet with heat much like I used to be able to do with my past Toyota Previas.
Is this a short-fall of these vehicles?
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After about a 5 mile drive my '05 6 cyl Santa Fe always smells hot. The temp gauge needle always stays mid point. Coolant is good and is changed regularly. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. No cracks in recovery bottle or hoses. All hoses tight, has been pressure tested and is ok. No heater core leak, no visible leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or under the car and no green patches on the radiator. After about a week of driving the recovery bottle level is down about 3/4" but the radiator is full to the neck. Where the coolant is going and how to locate the source?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with a 2.7 motor. I have cold heat but it will still defrost windows the temp gauge stays around the 1/2 way mark.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata. The a/c air vent is not working on the passenger side. The vent on the drivers side is working. I believe it is the temp door actuator? Can we fix this on our own? Mileage is over 60,000 miles? That is the only problem I have had with my car.
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The vibration on my passenger seat is at any speed I notice noises coming from the front of the car like if something is loose, I took it to the dealer and they told everything it's fine and I told them that's b.s. what can cause my passenger seat to vibrate?
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It stop working for a while but i want it to work now. The needle is frozen in the middle and wont move for shizz. Is it something electrical or should i buy a new gauge? I found some gauges for the 740 so I thought to ask first before buying it.
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Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
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I did an engine swap for a junkyard motor my 4.0 ohv had a very bad rod bearing so I got one from the junkyard with 117,000,or so they say.Anyhow, after its all said and done it runs perfect except the temperature gauge seems to not get as high up on the gauge as before after sufficient driving(it used to run about middle of the gauge) it drops low at idle then goes up and stays up then goes down.it still has good heat, doesn't seem as good as before tho.I changed the thermostat also.
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My car has 219k miles and has been very loud and when i turn it on the rpm meter goes to 3 and gradually car quiets down and needle comes down to 1. While i drive the steering wheel vibrates too. I took it to the mechanic i was told that timing chain needs replacement as its about time. I was under the impression that timing chains do not need replacement.
The steering wheel vibrates (shakes) it makes light clicking sounds too. I have not been able to diagnose the problem by myself. I think these two things may not be related but engine is really loud. Does timing chain needs replacement? and if it does what else along with it should be replaced?
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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Our Camry has about 105,000 miles on it. Car is well maintained, I change the oil every 3 k or so and the air filter is clean (although it is not a factory air cleaner- it is a K&N filter). Other maint is done as specified by the warranty/maintenance book although the car is long out of factory warranty.
We occasionally pull a 800 lb pop-up tent trailer and just got back from the Sierras after driving up some pretty tall passes with it. Car ran great, got great mileage, temp gauge rock steady. I say this because it is probably the most stressful driving we do with this car. While we live in the city we are retired and the car is not exposed to constant heavy traffic, dust or snow. Mileage seems to have remained pretty steady, even with the hesitation.
Got home from the mountains and a couple days later the car began to hesitate when under load. The hesitation shows up as a slightly uneven surge when the car is going up a hill or when it is cold. About 20 mph the car seems to momentarily stop accelerating, then evens out and upwards of 40 mph I don't feel it at all. The hesitation is getting a bit worse over the last couple days in frequency, but still isn't felt on the freeway. I don't know if the hesitation is related to the recent trip to the Sierras.
I hooked up my OBD II computer to see if there are any DTCs, none shown, even left the computer on the car for a day to see if anything might pop up when the car surged, but the computer isn't seeing trouble codes.
My other thought was "got some bad gas", ran the tank out and put in new gas, fuel injector cleaner and dryer. With one new tank it hasn't worked. I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet.
Tried driving the car in 1st and 2nd gear only and found that the hesitation isn't dependent on what gear I'm in, but seems to be more about the speed and load. In neutral, slowly revving the engine, I don't detect anything that sounds or looks like a hesitation (just watching the tach).
Been reading about problems some Toyotas have had with unintended acceleration but I'm not sure that is my problem. I have to admit I didn't know that my Camry was "drive by wire" and maybe I don't understand it enough. Maybe a "reflash" might be needed?
My sense is that I should go ahead and do the next major maintenance items including plugs, but if I had a bad plug or plug coil wouldn't that show up as a Diagnostic Trouble Code item?
Could this be a bad injector or fuel filter? Wouldn't they produce a DTC? How do I break down the next steps?
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