Camry :: 2003 / 1MZ-FE Engine Was Not Coming Up To Temp As Fast As Normal
Mar 3, 2016
On my 03 Camry (1MZ-FE engine) I noticed a few weeks ago that my engine wasn't coming up to temp as fast as normal. It was taking an additional 10-20min. Took it to my mechanic saying I had a potential faulty thermostat. They said they observed the thermostat opening and closing but coolant was a little low, which they topped off for me. Didn't replace anything or charge me for their services.
Now it's two weeks later and my CEL comes on. Take it to Autozone and I get codes P0128, P0420, P0430. So it would seem that my assumption was right on the faulty thermostat. But now I need to know how the other two codes are related to the thermostat. Based on what i have read, if the engine doesn't come up to temp right away, the computer will deliver more gas to the engine, thus creating a richer mixture, which in turn is not good for the catalyst system.
Could it be possible that just by replacing the thermostat (which i am going to do tomorrow) would cause the other codes to disappear? I'm thinking that I should, in this order:
- Replace thermostat
- Replace one (or both O2 sensors) (upstream or downstream first?)
- Replace converter
I've also read that you can offset the O2 sensors out of the exhaust stream to fool the engine, while still maintaining acceptable emission levels (due to Toyota having a higher than normal acceptable level).
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2007 Camry V6: how miles to warm up to reach normal temp?
When i start cold (30 F ) it take at least 5 miles (in town) to reach the ''ALMOST'' 9 O CLOCK mark on the temp gauge or 185 F on my ULTRAGAUGE connect to the OBDII connector.
At 20F outside temp or less : i plug the block heater (cartridge type in the block (not coolant) )
Then when i start the car the TEMP on Ultragauge is 60F after 2 hours on 110 Volts.
Then go to city..........and take the same 5 miles to reach 185F. So same time.
My Question: is it NORMAL that it take at least 5 miles to warm up at 185F. Is my thermostat OK because it is a big (long) job to replace myself and it is cold outside .
Q.: 2 : When i stop the car about 25 minutes (20F outside temp)) the temp is down down below the first white mark on car gauge....... normal or not ?: (if not :maybe the radiator pressure cap?) Never had a japanese car.......my caddy was at normal temp before 5 miles...
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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I've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
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Having engine knock after sitting all day or over night with only 4K miles on it until temp comes up to normal...
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I have an 03 f250 6.0 150k milage and lately my A/C has not been working at its best. Its intermittent, and for some reason it will work fine until i get on the highway and it just blows hot air. Would this be a leak or clutch issue? One thing I have noticed if my oil/coolant is above 200 the A/C will blow hot air but not return to cold when the temperatures return to normal. I haven't done any trouble shooting so my first thing ill check are the fuses. As far as the compressor goes its an alien object to me I have never had A/C issues with any vehicle i have owned.
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I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
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I just acquired a 2003 Camry LE 2.4 with 143K miles on it. most everything on the car is in great condition, but I am getting bad engine noise at about 1500 rpms and higher.
It sounds like I may have a spun bearing, but am not 100% sure.
The oil filler baffle is still in place -
What is the best way to diagnose if a spun bearing is the problem?
If so, what are my options?
I was thinking:
a) get a replacement motor
b) repair the one I have
c) scrap the car
Although I don't need the car immediately, I also don't have a closed garage to work in (2 project motorcycles in pieces and nowhere for a car at the moment) and have never pulled an engine out of a car before or done anything in the lower part of the engine.
I am comfortable checking valve clearances and other maintenance - On my 96 Camry I have replace the front suspension, shocks, gas tank, all fluids/filter/hoses, harmonic balancer, alternator, starter etc. - but not too sure about engine internals.
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Srange noises of my 1994 AWD. When driving, if I take off fast, it makes a lot of pop noise, but if I take off slowly, then It's Ok. Or when I make a quick acceleration after slowing down then it make noise, but if I take it fairly slow then it's OK. The frequency is getting worse. My front axles are in good condition (30K miles on a rebuilt pair). I have unplugged the AWD controller box, it didn't do any difference. All gear shipped OK. So what is that noise in that condition? My 94 AWD is about 110k miles, good shocks.
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We did a Cody test and found the injector orings leaking and replaced them.
Did the test over and now hear air coming from the oil pan. Is that normal?
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I have an 08 camry v6, from time to time i've noticed when i turn the temp knob from cool to hot it would blow cool. Now it's happening all the time no heat at all just blows cool air when heat is on in all modes.
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03 camry 205,000 miles. After first start when backing up, there is a thrumming vibration noise coming from the engine compartment. The noise is less when moving off in drive.
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My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
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On a '03 Solara, I've got this code. It designates Shift Solenoid Performance (stuck off) for the S4 valve. It makes sense because the trans won't shift into 4th gear in normal conditions.
But I was wondering what the likelihood of the transmission speed sensor set this code by giving a faulty reading that was too slow. The car seems like it is going somewhat faster than the speedometer is reading. RPMs are over 3000 at 50 mph. Seems like I'm doing 60-65. I wonder if the ECM is not commanding the 3-4 shift because it 'thinks' the car has not reached the required speed?
Or possibly the button on the shifter is simply malfunctioning. The indicator light on the dash comes on if the button is pushed, and goes out when you push it again. I'm not familiar with what the normal RPM would be at highway cruising. It's a 4 cyl with 169,400 miles. Would torque converter clutch be more likely to fail than the shift solenoids on these cars?
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I have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
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Today was drive my x 2000 v10 limited 4x4 114k miles). It was 90 degrees Out and was driving in light traffic going 40 and noticed my temp gauge almost up to h then dropped fast. So shut the ac off and it continue to rise and drop fast I went few more miles to where I was going checked everything could see no problems it sat for about 30mins then left on my drive back home 36 miles and had ac on and no problems stayed where it normally is. I am thinking of just replacing the belt cause I never have. No weeping from water pump. Or any smell.
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My '03 passat w8 just started making a lot of noise which sounds like the engine fan is running very fast and blowing like mad even though my car is not warm. It started 3 nights ago and sounds like a street sweeper, which is what I thought it was until I looked around and saw there was no street sweeper to be found. When I turn the car off the noise winds down and disappears with the fan still running just making the normal amount of fan noise so I don't think the problem is the actual fan.
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So my understanding is the water temp gauge at 200 degrees is pretty much spot on. The last three days I notice the temp gauge go to 200 then up to 240 which is like just one line away from the red zone. I turned on my heat full blast and was on the tollway and the temps went back to 200. The moment I got back into stop and go traffic the temp goes up again 220-240 range. Again, one line away from the red zone. No other alarms or dash messages come up. No smell of anti-freeze.
As well, the oil temp which was always at 200 has done the same thing. Running over 200 in the 220 plus range. Could this just be low anti-freeze? If so, would I not get a dash warning light?
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I don't have my manual handy, wondering what the normal operating temp of the coolant is for a 1.8T B5? I believe it is 190, but want confirmation.
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My car overheats then backs off to a normal temp. All the while the heater blows cold air then hot. Water pump is new and thermostat is one yr old. This has to be a thermostat problem does it not?
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I have a 2004 VW Jetta 1.8T , what the normal coolant temperature should be?
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