Camry :: 2002 Wouldn't Turn Over At All - No Clicking Sound
Dec 29, 2011
I have a 2002 Camry that has been having a tough time starting in the mornings over the last couple weeks. Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over at all. My battery is pretty old, so I just presumed this was the issue. I went and got a new battery and put it in, but still not starting. In fact, the car isn't even turning over at all (no clicking sound that I associate with lack of voltage from the battery). The car just makes a faint "whinning" noise.
All the electronics/lights in the car are working and when I turn the car on the check engine light, abs light, etc turn on. Doing a little searching online, I found that when I turn the ignition from "on" to "start" the headlights should dim and all of the interior lights (check engine, ABS, etc) should go off. They are not going off or dimming, but I'm not sure exactly what this is indicative of? Is this lack of headlight dimming/interior lights going off a tell-tale sign of something ("that is for sure the starter")?
Should I pull the starter and take it in to an Auto Zone type shop for testing, or is there something else I should be looking at first?
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I've noticed a clicking sound from the front end of my car. It occurs when I apply full left lock. I have a 2002 Camry V6 XLE. Could it be the CV joint???
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I drove my '02 Camry last night to a restaurant and when I came out it would not start. I have never had any problems with my Camry. I have a new strong battery.
All the lights, bells, radio, a/c, door locks, dash lights came on and work fine. There was no clicking sound of the starter. It would not turn over at all. NO SOUND AT ALL. I did move the shifter handle several times thinking it may have been the kill switch on the shifter.
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2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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I have an 02 F150 super crew FX4 4.6. Over the last year, about once every 2 months I noticed that the AC wouldn't turn off when I took the key out. I would turn it back on and off and it would stop. A couple weeks ago during a mild hurricane (we get those in NC, just a lot of rain) the truck started trying to start itself in the drive way but wouldn't turn over.
Then it started trying to turn itself over while I was driving. (but only after heavy rain). I thought I identified that it wouldn't happen if I pulled out the key ignition lock cylinder thing. You know, you have to push it in and then turn to start; If I made sure it wasn't pushed it, it seemed not to ghost start. So I figured maybe it was an issue with the key ignition lock.
Then this week it wouldn't start, it would try to turn over but not start. (usually after rain). I replaced the starter solenoid relay and things seemed to be fine for the last 2 days.
Well it rained like hell last night. It wouldn't turn over. After trying to turn it over and removing the key, the accessories stayed on (fan, radio, etc - even with opening door). I pulled the 50a fuze which killed the accessories, and it would turn over without that fuse in, but I had to put the fuse back in to get it out of park.
Another clue, recently, occasionally I hear relay clicking behind my dash after the key is out when it is acting up. So I am lost here. Should I rip out the dash and see if water is leaking in?
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About a month ago I replaced my blower control module. I purchased the module from Rockauto. The first replacement module lasted about a month. I received a replacement because the blower stayed on high and wouldn't turn off. The second module only last one week, the blower once again only blows on high and won't shut off. Both replacement modules were made by Dorman. Could something be killing them or am I just getting crap parts?
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I have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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Stereo cut off, battery light came on, windshield wipers got week, car shut off and wouldn't turn back on. Jumped and immediately died, found blown etcs fuse, replace got vehicle home. The next day the stereo turned off again so I went to get new fuses and the car turned off again. Fuse wasn't blown, had battery and alternated checked and they've been tested as being fine. Ran diagnosis and got 2 codes related to pcv valve and throttle body which I'm assuming came from going into limp mode once I got 2 blocks from my house.
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My car was looking really rough, covered in salt. I took it to a car wash which was across the street from where i was staying last night. After the car wash, I drove home about 1 min. The car sat overnight (temp to -5).
The car won't start today. When I turn the key, it makes a "whirring" sound but doesn't turn over. No clicking. Good power, all lights are on. Put a booster battery back on the battery to try to rule out a batter issue, still no start.
Can the starter actually freeze? I'll never wash the car again.
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I'd like to get some feedback on whether this is most likely a fuel pump or starter or other issue. My 2003 Ford Escape has about 83,000 miles on it and I've had very little trouble with it. A couple times lately, though, I've gone to start the thing, turn the ignition and nothing happens. The engine doesn't turn over, there's no clicking sound, nothing happens. The first time this happened, I tried to start it about three or four times, waited a minute or two and then the thing fired up fine.
I noticed that the low light fuel indicator was on - it had not been previously -- so I drove immediately to the gas station and put in 14.8 gallons. The thing has a 15 gallon tank. When restarting the vehicle, the ignition hesitated a couple seconds and then worked. Over the next couple days, the ignition would hesitate a bit -- but less and less each time -- and then kick in. After a couple days everything seemed back to normal.
So I thought that this was related to having the gas so low, although how the gas got that low without the warning light coming on is still a mystery.
Yesterday, the car started fine and I drove about 4 miles to my breakfast place. I was there about 45 minutes and the Escape started fine. I decided to stop for a newspaper about a mile down the road, came out and the car wouldn't start. Again with the dead silence. This time there was about 3/4 of a tank of gas, so it's not low fuel. Again I waited a minute or two, tried again, and after some hesitation the thing started.
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I just took my 2002 Subaru into the dealer to have them fix a fuel line leak that I was hoping was on recall (it wasn't). I don't take my car to them regularly but they had to be the ones to diagnose it in case it was a recalled part. They called today and said that the fuel line was leaking onto my engine, that there was no recall, and that because they heard a ticking sound coming from my engine they were predicting my cam bearing was giving out and it would be $3000 to fix it. I asked how they diagnosed it and they said they have a guy there who knows the sound well and can hear it and predict it accurately, but they didn't actually take the engine apart or anything to check.
I'm feeling a bit confused. I will have my mechanic look at it and ask him what he thinks but he did my brakes not too long ago and did not mention any concern about the clicking. I change my oil like a responsible car owner and take care of it, but it does have 200,000 miles on it. I need to drive a long distance in a couple of weeks and am wondering if my engine is about to give out....
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I have a 2002 KIA Sedona that I just had new drums, brakes and brake kit put on. The braking is fine, however I hear a clicking sound from the backend now when I apply the brakes when I just about come to a stop or lightly braking in my neighborhood. What is causing it and how dangerous is it?
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When I turn hard right & left, near the left wheel well there's a little metallic clicking sound. Either way I still don't what it is. Upon inspection when I removed the wheel the I noticed that the red portion with the large arrow is able to move clockwise and counter clockwise. Just curious as to whether or not this should be capable of happening.
Wheel baring, control arm and bushings have been mentioned from Le Shwab's workers... I dunno though I need Vortex's opinion
When collar 3 is turned all the way down it can't rotate, but I'm almost positive that collar 2 and 3 are suppose to remain in contact with one another to prevent movement of collar 1. Just making sure that my theories are correct.
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Where the flashers are located? I turned my turn signals on to find the clicking sound, but I couldn't see anything under the dash.
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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This is a 2006 Honda Civic LX which it won’t turn over. Last night we replaced the battery because it was old, and that still did not fix the issue.
The lights, stereo, electronics, etc will turn on, but when you turn the key, it’s just a very sad sounding “whirrrr” and nothing. It sounds like the battery is dead, but it obviously isn't. There’s no clicking…it has a full tank of gas…the key is programmed fine and is not new…
Further details: yesterday we were able to turn the car on (though it was slow to start: we thought it was the battery…) and move it to the driveway one time. After that, even jumping it off doesn't work.
Previously for the last week or so I've been experiencing a slowness to the start (I would turn the key and it just took a little longer than it has before to finally turn on) and also my headlights & interior lights were flickering pretty severely during my night driving. We had someone at Advanced Auto check the battery and alternator with one of their gadgets, but the alternator checked out fine. The battery was old and showing that it didn't have much left, so that’s why we replaced it.
We checked a lot of the fuses and didn't find anything blown. The alternator belt looked good, we made sure all the battery connections were tight & secure… We are just so confused as to why it’s not working…!! I'm not sure if the intermittent lights flickering is related or unrelated. I am in a relatively warm place but it's not been all that hot lately... I've never had any other problems with the vehicle...
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Started up the SC 430 (2002) and a clicking noise is coming from the engine. After engine is warmed up noise settles down. Have 71212 miles
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I'm I just purchased a SC430 2002, car make a clicking noise when shifting gears. Example when I turn my car on and shift from Park to Reverse I hear a clicking noise and then when I go from Reverse to Drive it makes a clicking noise. Sometimes it just goes away. Is it a transmission issue or if this is a common sound.
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