2002 camry, wouldn't start, turned over slow. cleaned cables and charged battery. Now it won't turn over at all, replaced starter relay, still nothing. co incidence or part of problem, now cannot move shifter with brake depressed. checked fuses & brake light everything ok.
View 7 RepliesOur 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
I just got a 2002 Toyota Camry. She runs fine, but the one thing that bugs me is that when I am stopped and my A/C is on, she shakes. I needed to do to make it stop shaking or if this is normal?
View 13 RepliesI just got some work done on my Camry (CEL P0440 and P0446). The lights have been taken care of after the Charcoal Canister and hoses above the gas tank were replaced. Since then, I've noticed that I'm getting a gas smell in the cabin when the AC is turned on and when I turn the AC off and roll the windows down. No CEL is on, and I was able to pass emissions.
View 9 RepliesThe green A/C light on my 2002 Camry (4 cyl) will start to flash after the the A/C is turned on. After reading about the relay fix I tried swapping relays and had the same symptoms. The compressor will engage and for the few seconds that its engaged it will just barely start to blow cooler air until it starts to flash. I then noticed that with the relay completely removed I would also get the flashing light after a few seconds when the A/C was turned on but the air would not start to turn cold.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl LE with a 4spd automatic transmission. Recently I have been experiencing slow long shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It's as if it is coasting in neutral for a couple of seconds before finally engaging the next gear. I experience this sensation only after the vehicle has cooled down. The transmission will start to shift like normal within 3 miles of driving. I have only experienced this recently as the weather has started to drop.
I have not changed my transmission fluid much as it is a synthetic and Toyota claims it will last the life of the car. I did a drain and fill at 90K mi. The car currently has 150K mi on it and after experiencing these problems I did a drain and fill, drove the car 10 miles and repeated with another drain and fill. This seemed to have worked on the first day after doing this but now it is back to the slow long shifts. I am thinking of cleaning the strainer and taking the car in to have the transmission flushed. Is there a way to tell if my transmission is failing?
I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
View 1 RepliesGot in the car today, 2002 SC430, turned the key, car cranked and cranked but no start. I'm guessing I'm not getting fuel. How do I troubleshoot?
View 6 RepliesJust got back from the supermarket. Unloaded groceries and my Passat wouldn't start when I went to park it. Turned the key and it just makes a clicking noise - clock and trip odometer reset themselves also. If I turn the key the car just makes a clicking noise and the lights on the dash all flash on and off.
I am going to see if it starts after being jumped in a few minutes.
Other potentially useful info - I was testing a radar detector for work the other day and it has a battery voltage meter. It was reading in the 11.0 - 11.6 volt range. Is this too low - just wondering if the alternator was not supplying a sufficient charge. Not sure how accurate these are. The battery was changed around a year ago so I'm sure it's not the battery. I am assuming starter or alternator.
I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
View 3 RepliesI purchased the vehicle roughly in 2007 by auction. About 3 years ago, I notice that the car sometimes has trouble turning on but I saw it as a sight nuisance at the time. As I turn the key to start the engine there is a delay and when it does turn on it makes some disturbing noises but this is not a routine occurrence. I thought it might be the battery so I purchased a new one. I had a mechanic look at the car and he said it was the catalytic converters but I'm not sure since it passed the smog test without any problems. The car also trembles at times and releases white smoke from the exhaust pipe. I have looked at the oil stick and it has little bubbles which I'm not sure when that started. My boyfriend seems to think that it has something to do with the spark plugs.
View 4 RepliesThinking about picking up a 2002 Regal. Major issue: it will not start without turning the lights on first and will shut off when the wipers are turned on.
View 4 Replies2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
2003 camry 2.4 ... This is what is happening, cooling fans will not come on except when the AC is turned on and they will stop working when the AC is turned off, otherwise the car will over heat.
This is what I have done...Replaced the fans (because the radiator fan was bad, after hooking them up directly to the battery). I checked all the grounds, including the one under the intake, checked the fuses, checked relays using 12vots to the relay and used a ohm meter to see if it made contact when activated, on the three fan relays. Replaced and tested the new radiator sensor using a pot of water on the cooking stove with a cooking temperature gauge and ohm meter. It tested ok.
Unplug the radiator sensor while the car is running, the fans will come on, but go off as soon as it is plug back in, even when the motor is over heating. Also replaced the thermostat.
What can I do next, before I burn the motor up trying to fix it? Motor just started running rough. Just now pulled up a code of the number three cylinder miss firing
2002 V6 Camry no crank/no start.
- Turn key, starter relay clicks, clock dims (headlights do not), no crank/no start.
When I arrived the battery appeared new, the connections clean / tight and I could put my hand on the starter relay and feel/hear it click. With a brass bar and hammer, I gave the solenoid a tap and the car started right up. We shut the car off, no start again, tapped the solenoid again and the car started right up... again. Bad starter contacts right? Sure.
Since the starter on the 02 V6 Camry doesn't have removable solenoid contacts, I went and bought a new solenoid (out of my pocket). I pulled the starter out, replaced the solenoid, re-installed and.... same symptoms, but tapping a new solenoid won't work...
Now I was so sure this was going to be the fix, that when I returned I only brought the tools I needed for the install... Frustrating. I did have an old meter in my truck that I used to measure voltage at the solenoid..
I read 8.5Volts to the solenoid coil with the key turned to START. I hooked up a jumper battery as well, and yes, 8.5v is what I read.... Now the meters batteries are weak, the readings it gives me are inaccurate, and I'll be going back Saturday with my good meter, more tools, and wiring diagrams etc.
Are there any common issues with this vehicle I could look for here that might cause low voltage in the solenoid's circuit; ignition switch, specific splice point, area where wires get chaffed or pins come loose in connectors etc?
02 2.4 IL4 2AZ-FE Camry will not start, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. I still asked them to charge it, let it set overnight and test it again when I pick it up. It tested 100%.
Put battery into car, started car and drove it to automotive store to test charging circuit and battery with car running. Checked 100% good.
Car would not start, again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio. Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. Replaced battery. Car started twice and again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
View 2 RepliesAt 100k I took my 2004 CR-V in for belated 90k maintenance. Besides the routine stuff, they had to replace the ball joints. They also rotated and balanced the tires, which are about 15k miles old.
Took the car home, and immediately noticed a loud clicking in the right wheel when I turned it hard at slow speeds, parallel parking, etc. Took it back to the shop and was informed that it was a spindle problem. Mechanics said this was merely a coincidence, not a result of their recent work, but nicely charged me only for parts not labor. They had to replace the ABS sensor in the course of this work.
Next day, had to take a long weekend trip, about 500 miles there and back. Half-way through, noticed two things: groaning/clicking noise in brakes at slow speeds, and a slight but detectable vibration through the gas pedal when traveling 30-50MPH. Also a faint "wobble" sound at this speed as though coming from front right tire.
Took it back to the shop: was told that brake rotors were rusted and this was responsible for groaning/clicking--something to do with warping due to the rust + car getting warm from long drive. They lubed up the rotors real good and there is no more sound, though I've not driven it a long distance yet.
BUT, faint vibration in gas pedal and wobble noise at 30-50 persists. Mechanic said that when they rotated the tires, they noted that they had gone "out of round," but thought balancing might bring them back in round. Is it possible that the sound & vibration are just from the tires trying to find their level? Is this the kind of thing where I'm all of a sudden looking at 4 new tires (seems premature)? Any other front-end possibilities? Should I take it to a tire shop? I have found my mechanics pretty good over the past couple of years, but this recent series of visits has made me slightly leery...