Camry :: 2002 With 4 Cylinder - Refusing To Start (Cranking)
Nov 2, 2013
Stuck at Starbucks at the moment waiting for my car to get towed. Thought I would post here to get some feedback.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry that is refusing to start. The battery seems OK as all the lights are on. The car is not turning over either (cranking).
The car has had no issues (touch wood) since I got it at 50k miles. It is currently at 100k miles.
I believe the issue is with the starter. When I started the car earlier today, I noticed it started a little differently then before. It took a second or two longer to start.
Does the problem can be a starter? I am getting the car towed to my house in about an hour.
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I have 2002 camry V6, I did a battery replacement few months ago. It gave me hard time to start, cranking but will not ru,. I did clean the throttle body and was fine. I left the car for few days, came back will not start,you hear the starter but no cranking, a neighbor mechanic kept starting and did start. He said it needs tuning. The car has 104 k miles on it.
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My 2005 Chevy Cobalt is refusing to start on occasion. I turn the key, nothing. Its not the battery. I wait exactly 10 minutes and it starts no problem!The dealer wants me to take it in only when this is happening but in 10 minutes the tow truck driver won't even arrive. What is the problem? The computer?
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2002 Camry XLE. Turn the key and get a hiss, not cranking. All lights function properly. Battery is about 2 yrs old.
Here is a video. (turn up volume) [URL] .....
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Today i went to the store and my toyota camry 2002 with 4 cylinder turn on fine. i came back home and car also turned on. after 3 hours, i decided to take a short trip but this time the car was not turning on. there is no cracking, radio and headlight dont turn on. i thought it could be the battery, i used a multimeter and see that i get a 12.6 volt but still no headlight or radio.
The battery is 3 1/2 years old but the fact i get a 12.6 v make me believe is not the battery. I get a little bit of light in the dashboard and when i try to turn on the car it looks like the dashboard light get dim as well as the indicator in the dashboard such as battery indicator, abs, oil etc.
The starter was changed 2 years ago. The car turn on normally before, no sign of long cranking or anything like that. So I think it is not starter either but not sure. when the starter went bad 2 years ago, there was no cracking but the car made a click sound when try to crank. Now there is no click sound and this is why i think it is not the starter.
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I received a remote start for xmas and I'm usually pretty handy, but I've hit a wall today. I've got it responding to the code and turning the car on but it doesn't spin the starter. I've checked the hood switch by holding it down while hitting the code and it doesn't appear to be prohibiting starting.
2007 Camry XLE
[URL] .....
Here's the Main Power Harness and my connections:
Red, Red + White -> Black: Constant 12v
Violet -> Blue: Starter
Pink -> Yellow: Ignition
Pink + White -> Pink: Ignition 2
What would be keeping it from cranking the starter?
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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I recently changed my timing chain on my 2002 Camry XLE and now it won't start. I have done this twice before on different camrys but it is the first time this happens. I don't have spark on cyl 2 and 4. I checked all connections from the ignition coils to the ECM, no opens or shorts. All ignition grounds are good also. I check the continuity from the Crank and Cam sensors to the ECM and they are good. The timing chain was put in like the repair manual says. There is fuel pressure and good battery voltage so I am now stuck.
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I have a 2002 Camry, 2.4 with 155k miles.
This morning I was going to work and was making a lane change and hit the accelerator quite aggressively. Suddenly my engine started to run really rough and shook the car and the check engine light started flashing.
I checked the engine code and its giving me a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire warning.
I have read that there can be various reasons but I figured since this problem is consistent its not a vacuum issue? Could it just be a bad plug? I don't have the tools to fix it, I am going to get them soon to pull the plugs and inspect then, and will replace them anyway since I don't think they have ever been replaced.
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So i have a 2002 camry LE 4 cylinder, it has about 173000 miles on it. It belonged to my dad and I bought it off him in June. My dad has always been religious about getting it serviced so it's not like the car is on its last legs or anything. I've driven the car myself probably for 40-50k of those miles while I was living with him, and occasionally when he goes on vacation. The car would always run smooth and other than worn brakes was in tip top condition for a car with its age and mileage.
Anyway, I went to get my oil changed on the 5th. Got out and the car felt zippy and all that good stuff. One week later, I'm parking at home after running errands. As I pull into the spot I notice some faint white smoke coming from under the hood. I pop the hood and see the smoke coming from behind the radiator. No real one spot that the smoke is coming from, but emanating from the middle, behind the radiator up towards the top. I checked the coolant reservoir as my girlfriends old car used to go through periodic overheating due to her never taking care of it, and I'd usually fill it up and make sure the radiator was full and that would be that.
So the reservoir is basically bone dry, I add coolant to the line and I check the radiator. The coolant in the radiator is filled to the top when I go to fill it. I take the car out later that night and it's still smoking slightly. The smoke doesn't start until the car's been running for about 10 minutes or so, which I'm guessing is how long it takes for the underhood components to warm up enough to vaporize the liquids in there. The temperature gauge is always smack dab in the middle while I'm driving and the car is smoking. The smoke is white and there's not a ton of it.
Monday I check the reservoir tank and it's empty again, I refill it and there's still smoke after 10 minutes. Luckily, I work 10 minutes away so I'm just getting to work/home when the smoke starts. I'm planning on taking it in to a radiator specialist on Saturday morning but curious what the community thinks it might be. I'm totally car ignorant so a self repair is kind of out of the question.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE 4 cylinder. I made a mess today, filled 13 galleons of Diesel in my gasoline Camry. It ran fine for 5 mins and then stopped.
I am planning to drain the fuel tank. I see one i hope fuel line in the hood which I plan to open using a wrench and drain the Fuel tank. Is that right?
Also do I need to do any other things immediately? I was thinking may be I will change fuel filter also.
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Our 2002 LE Camry master-cylinder reservoir is loose, at least with the engine not running. Is this normal? It moves about 1/4", side-to-side. With the engine running, the pedal almost goes to the floor, but I've been told that's normal. I'm not sure that it is, but my wife seems to get by with it that way. Our engine is 4cyl.
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I own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
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My son has a 2002 Explorer 4WD EB that needed new valve and intake manifold gaskets. I pulled it apart this weekend (battery disconnected) and replaced (don't get me started on the passenger valve cover with that *@&$^ EGR valve in the way). He's also had issues with the key being removable from the ignition when the vehicle is still running (worn key and/or cylinder most likely). So when I put his key in to test my gasket job, it won't go in all the way. After much trial and effort, I call a mobile locksmith who has to drill out the old cylinder and rekey/replace it (keyed to use the same, single old key we have).
Now, the cylinder turns happily with the old key. In the "Run" position, all the dash lights come on as they should, but turning then to "Start", caused a loud single click, then the dash goes out, and the engine never even tries to start. Then, nothing electrical in the car works unless I disconnect the battery for about 10 mins, then reconnect. Upon trying to start, the same thing happens (good dash lights at "Run", then single loud click from the engine compartment, then nothing. It seems maybe the PAT has lost its memory of the old key?
I watched and assisted the locksmith put the cylinder and PATS antenna back together, so I know connections/placement of that is good. At this point, I'm about to lose all the money I saved on the gasket job to the freakin' ignition issue.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
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I recently put my stock 18's with TPMS. After 200 miles the car is still refusing to communicate with the TPMS, I still got the low pressure light and all 4 sides show no data. I tried resetting sensors by holding the TPMS button, but nothing is happening. Not sure what happened ?
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What a strange problem. EVERY EVERY morning the car starts perfect. Once it is warm some of the time (half) it will give a long crank approx 2.5 seconds before it will start. What a stupid problem! I have replaced:
Spark Plugs (NGK G-power) cheaper than stock, supposed to be better.
timing belt, water pump, idler-just matenence
Cam sensors
crank sensor (on tranny)
I checked the wires and coil by hosing them down while running. Vag-com says the temperature sensor is correct. No trouble codes except Secondary Air... What to do
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My truck has been sitting for a couple of months while I work out an issue with the guy I bought it from. It worked perfectly fine but now it will crank but not turn over. Could it be that the key has deactivated? I looked under the #1 sparkplug cover and found it to be chewed up and the wire shield looks as if it has melted. I understand it could be other things like fuel filter, fuel pump but it acts as if possibly a filter clogged? I realize I am female but I would rather ask here than have a mechanic come out and tell me it's something that it is not. 2002 Explorer Sport ....
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2002 camry, wouldn't start, turned over slow. cleaned cables and charged battery. Now it won't turn over at all, replaced starter relay, still nothing. co incidence or part of problem, now cannot move shifter with brake depressed. checked fuses & brake light everything ok.
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