Camry :: 2002 Will Not Accelerate - Throttle Body Make Clicking Sound When Pedal Is Depressed
Jul 14, 2012
2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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I went to clean my wife's throttle body out with brake cleaner and I think I sprayed too much into the throttle body now the car won't start. It makes a small clicking/grinding noise when I try to start it. What have I done?
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While driving 50MPH one day the car suddenly started making a very noisy, loud sound and would not accelerate when the gas pedal was depressed. I put the car in neutral and pulled off the road. The engine is running great but the gears are now all screwwy. R = neutral, and all other positions "N D 3 2 1" go forward. I put the car into one of the forward gears and it moves, but only about 20 feet before it ceases to move without a LOT of gas, then it is only 1-2 MPH.
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I have another small issue with my 2004 Prius. I just noticed yesterday that the second I very lightly depress the brake pedal, a little clicking sound is made down below. It sounds like it might be coming from the brake pedal itself or somewhere underneath the hood. It's only when I depress the pedal slightly and it makes pretty much the same sound when I release the pedal. I just had a 5000 mile service done to the car and there were no issues then.
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2002 Camry XLE.
I cleaned my throttle body today. Since the throttle plate moves by a motor, in order to keep it open, I turned the key to ON and held the gas pedal down by using some weight.
After I put everything back, the idle was high 2000+, then stays at 1300 to 1400 range. I drove about 10 miles and it is still the same. When stopped at a light in drive, the idle is still 1000
Did I mess up the e-throttle or the throttle position sensor? (Since I used a weight to hold the gas pedal down, I am worried now).
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I recently cleaned the throttle body and now it surges up and down. Not really sure what to check next. 2002 toyota camry 4 cyl.
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2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
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Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
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I have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
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So starting with the specs: I have a Stage III+ Golf R with about 39k Miles on it. Stage III+ was added at 17k miles and has treated me pretty good. The car is driven about 3 days a week and has the oil change interval of 3k miles.
Things that I've checked or done recently:
- Cam Follower: Wasn't too bad but seemed like the outer coating was wearing off on it so I replaced it.
- Oil change: Changed the oil about 1 week ago but hadn't driven it since then until yesterday were we did about a 50 mile road trip. (No unusual things noticed)
When we came back home and parked in the garage, I noticed the sound when I turned the ignition off. It was pretty noticeable as you will see in the video. Could I possibly have a bad throttle body on my hands?
[URL] ....
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I have an 02 rodeo ls 2wd with 110k miles.. I am having a lot of brake issues. 3 months ago i had front pads rotor and rear shoe's installed.then i started to feel maybe once a day a hard chatter in the brake pedal and a clicking sound coming from the dash area..so i took it back to pepboys and they said it was warped drum..so they installed new drums as well.
Well the clicking noise behind the dash is still there and the chatter in the pedal still happens.....when the pedal chatters the truck wont stop so it's kindda scary.
Also sometimes (it will last for a day or 2 then disappear) when coming to a slow stop the brakes make a rubbing noise like a waa waaaa waaa waaa as the tire rotates to a stop..I've been to pepboys 4 times and of course the noise never happens for them.
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So i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
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I cleaned my throttle body this afternoon.
My car started fairly easily, and I continued with running it to 4k RPM a few times, then took it for a ride. I floored it a few times, as suggested, to clear everything out.
Now, my 2004 J-VIN Camry is running around 1200 RPM, it was at about 650-675 before the cleaning. Is this normal? Do I need to d/c the battery to reset the ECU so the car can re-learn with a clean TB?
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I have a 2012 Camnry I4 and want to clean the throttle body.
Is this throtte the type that I can manualy open valve by hand without damage, or does the pedal need to be pushed to open, to prevent computer or throttle timing issues?
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2002 mercury grand marquis high vibrating air pressure is in the throttle body it become louder with the more gas you give the car.The vibration is the worst in the idle speed control.The vibration extend all the way down to the air filter.The air filter is not stopped up.The noise use to come and go and the car would cut off at a idle.
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I have a 02 1.8t passat that if I don't start it for two days the battery will be totally dead. I have taken it to two places and they cant find what the draw is. The only thing that i could think of is my horn that sometimes when I am in the car it goes of randomly and my right side mirror that sometimes runs on. And my other problem is that when I drive it and I get to 3500rpm the throttle body shots of and I loose all my boost. I got a new turbo installed trying to fix the problem but still keeps happening. The only thing I could think of is that i have a stage 1 revo flash and when I took the old turbo out it may have erased the memory of the flash.
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I have a 2012 Elantra limited. About 2 weeks ago I've started to hear a clicking noise coming from the gearbox when brake pedal is pressed and let go. This only happens when the car is at standstill. I took it in for service today and sales rep said its a normal clicking noise and his sisters car makes same sound. He said its an actuator motor engaging to allow the car to shift when brake is pressed. The thing is, the clicking was never there before or maybe not so loud. So what should I do? Car is still under warranty, should I demand for them to replace the actuating motor? Maybe call Hyundai and complain that they said the noise is normal ?
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The rpm with the A/C on are 550 , I was told to replace Throttle body, I did, rpm continue the same,when im driving and I stop the car start vibrating, some one told me that i have to program the new throttle body , how can i do that?
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I've tried searching everywhere, but can't seem to find the torque for the 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the plastic intake. This is on a 2az-fe engine in my 2004 camry. I imagine the torque would be the same for any Scion, RAV4, etc. that has the same engine.
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About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
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Took my car in to get the tire and headlight replaced. Not my usual mechanic. While they were in there, they took it upon themselves to open up the filter and root around the throttle body. They said it was heavily gunked up, and asked to clean it. The car has been having serious starting issues, so this made sense to me, so I overlooked them examining a part of the car that had nothing to do with what I'd asked them to repair, and told them to go ahead.
Mechanic cleaned out the throttle body. Now he says there are scratches in it, he suspects from a mouse or rodent. Says it needs to be replaced, but he couldn't source a part today. Either way, I can't afford that. Says it's fine to drive, though.
Whatever they did, the car is now worse. Engine revs up high in park or when I start the car, and then drops dow and keeps revving rhythmically while idle. And I swear that while in drive, it's running faster even with my foot off the gas, and not dropping out of higher gears as fast. I go back and confront the mechanic. He says yes, that's all because of those scratches. But I don't understand how before, when it still had these scratches, WASN'T clean, when it was, in his words, all gunked up, it was working BETTER than it is now, when it's clean and just has those scratches?
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